Fijian Tales - Traditional Dining at the Tropic's Bamboo Kitchen (Nadi)

It was early morning Sunday when my plane landed in Viti Levu, Fiji's main island. The airport town of Nadi (the newly minted 3rd city of the country) slumbers on a Sunday. In fact, nothing stirs all over the islands. They take their Sabbath day seriously as a great number of its population are Christians, then Hindu and Muslims. Most shops are closed. Even public transportation isn't running, except the taxis. Tropic of Capricorn sent someone to pick me up at the airport. He was waving a bond paper with my name written on it. Before 7 AM, I was already in front of the Tropic of Capricorn Beach Resort at the edge of Wailoaloa Bay.

 I was in a daze, partly due to the 13-hour plane ride, the change of time zone and because I was coming up with the flu. 

Unfortunately, I couldn't be accommodated until about 11 AM, when a room became available. I wouldn't have minded otherwise if Nadi was "open for business". But there was nothing to do. I couldn't even go to town and check out the shops. 

Nothing Urgent

To make the best of the situation, I took a stroll along Wailoaloa Beach, with its placid waters and the gentlest of ripples. When the resort's Bamboo Kitchen (Tropic Cafe) opened, I ordered breakfast. This took awhile. Everything in Fiji takes awhile. Nothing is urgent here. If you are in a hurry, I would be sorry for you. In southeast Asia, Laos has its "Please Don't Rush" demeanor? Try Fiji. 

Breakfast was 4 pieces of bread dipped in rich egg butter served with lightly cooked bacon strips.

Everyone at the Bamboo Kitchen introduced themselves. Nanni, Maria. I met Teddy and Marlon by the pool. Everyone was warm and accommodating, wearing their radiant smiles with an ebullient "Bula!" It's their "Mabuhay" - their welcome salutations; their hello, their good morning, etc. 

Later that night, I chose a customary Fijian dish so I ordered "Coconut Crumb Chicken" at F$15 (P385). What went to my table was a delectable work of art that looked more like a dessert than a meal. It was chicken crumbed (breaded chicken) in coconut flesh served with pineapple and tomato salsa with a side of spinach, cassava and lemon butter sauce. Fijian meals usually contain coconut, taro, yam or sweet potato. This one had baked taro leaves that tasted good. Cassava slice was chewy and tasty.  Sprinkled with bits of pineapple and tomato, the whole concoction beautifully came together with slices of chicken. I felt smug.

The restaurant itself was open spaced, facing a grassy lawn with cots and benches. A few steps away, the South Pacific beckoned. It was the perfect meal to end an exhausting first day in Melanesia.

As a child, I used to watch that Rodgers and Hammerstein musical. I could hear Bloody Mary sing "Bali Hai". 

I was standing on its set.

My first meal and breakfast in Fiji. Nothing fancy but the price.

Bamboo Kitchen

Tropic of Capricorn Beach Resort faces Wailoaloa Bay. My room was at the 3rd floor, left side of the photo.

Nadi is located west of Viti Levu. This photo only from Dolphin Island's website.

A Taste of the Authentic Tonkotsu Ramen of Fukuoka (Kyushu, Japan)

"Do you have Ramen?" I kept asking that question in every diner at a corner of Hakata Station in the city of Fukuoka. Rows of food joints litter the space and I wanted a taste of the world famous Tonkotsu Ramen that Fukuoka is known for. But everyone I asked shrugged their heads. I was baffled. Ramen is supposedly everywhere, particularly by the roadside as makeshift stalls called "yatai" (street cart). There are about 150 yatais all over Fukuoka but most of them don't have menus owing to its mobile character. I decided to check out the restaurants at the station. So there I was.

After half a dozen shops, I just looked at the photo displays and thought, hmmmm, these are the ramens that I know about. Is it possible that the people of Fukuoka don't call them ramen?  Was my accent wrong? How else do you say ramen?

I went inside a noodles bar. The order took 10 minutes. The minute the waiter placed my bowl in front, I could smell the pungent odor. It was overpowering, like something rotten was steaming. This is the character of Tonkotsu Ramen aka Hakata Ramen, the rich pork broth that gives the dish its savory taste. Hakata Ramen's noodles are made from wheat dough; they are long thin noodles, topped with pork slices (chashu), green onions and dried sea weeds. A soft boiled egg is thrown into the cloudy white concoction. 

These days, Japanese Ramen is world renowned. Not too bad for a dish that originated from China and found its way to the Japanese shores in 1859. In fact, until the 1950s, ramen was called "shina soba" in the country, translating to "Chinese soba". The secret of Tonkotsu (pork bone) - not tonkatsu (fried breaded pork) - is in its preparation. Most broths are prepared overnight and served the next day. 

Tips on Eating Ramen

With my ramen sitting in front of me, I stared at it. I thought of how the pungent smell gets to my brain. I remember reading an Australian ramen aficionado giving a tip on how to find a good ramen meal. He said, "Usually the worse the smell, the better it is. There’s no real way to tell. If the shop smells really, really bad like old tennis shoes, the ramen is usually good." Goodness. 

He further suggested, "Ignore the smell, first up. Don't let the smell deter you from going into a shop. Ah, that's the hardest obstacle to overcome." If he asked other foreigners why they don't eat ramen, their answer was usually “because it smells so bad”. And I was reminded of Durian. Also, you have to eat it with a slurping noise, a practice scoffed at in many "civilized" societies.

As for my experience in Fukuoka, my ramen smelled like a rotten meal, but tasted like heaven. I needed to get used to eating good ramen.

Momiji Manju at Momijido (Itsukushima, Hitsukaichi City, Hiroshima Prefecture)

Miyajima (Itsukushima) is a dream destination; one of the 3 most visited in Japan. But it also has a contribution for regional gastronomy, bridging a bit of history, culture and food consumption. I like food representatives from places because they elevate cooking and food preparation beyond appearances. With this, consumers gain a sensibility for the art of taste. 

Miyajima's favorite take-away gift is called Momiji-manju, a steamed bun shaped like a Japanese maple leaf. It has a red-bean jam filling wrapped in sponge cake. The bun itself is made from buckwheat, flour, egg, sugar and honey. It got its name from one of Japan's most famous maple leaf valley, Momijidani Park, located near the forest of the island. 

Origin of Momiji Manju

Believed to have been created in 1906 when Okami, a ryokan (traditional inn) owner asked a pastry chef to create something that would represent Miyajima. 

Another anecdote involves a visiting samurai statesman of the Meiji Restoration period, Hirobomi Ito (left), who took a fancy to a local girl serving tea. 

When he saw her hands, he quipped, "How tasty it would be if I could eat baked sweets shaped like maple leaves. " This prompted the tea house manager to bake one shaped like the maple leaves scattered on the ground.  

I

Fried Maple Leaf fr. "Otowa Wedding".

In Minoh City, Osaka, they even fry maple leaves on sweetened tempura batter - for snacks. It would have made sense if maple leaves were incorporated in Momiji Manju's ingredient. But then this is Miyajima, not Osaka.

From the southern hill where temples stood, I found the edge of Miyajima Omotesando Street, the shopping street. Momiji, the bakeshop selling Momiji Manju was at the northern end. It was an engrossing walk along shops selling local products, chestnuts, matcha ice creams, etc. Momiji manju was my last "stop"in Miyajima before heading back to the ferry.

At the very corner of the street, to the right side, is Momijido. I ordered a few pieces with custard, red bean paste and chocolate filling variety. Baking took awhile as you wait. I was served tea. I noticed some people leaving from their Momiji-baking classes. There are 4 sessions a day - 10 AM, 1 PM, 2:15 PM and 3:30 PM. Twenty minutes later, my momiji manju was ready.

I read that there are 20 shops making momiji manju, but the people I asked for directions all pointed to one place - Momijido. It took me awhile to find it because the island barely uses English signs, and when your point of reference is the tip of a pointing finger, you also rely on a lot of guess work and intuition.

If you're in Miyajima, I'd recommend trying Momiji Manju to complete your island experience. You can even try a grilled Momiji, if you're into that.

This photo I captured from the shop, Momijido.

Miyajima Omotesando Shopping Street

FYI: Manju are Chinese-style steamed buns that typically have sweet fillings such as red bean paste.




#momijimanju   #miyajima   #dessert   #snack   #foodporn   #japan

#maple

Okonomiyaki in Reichan (Hiroshima, Japan)

Soba has thinner noodles, and is made of buckwheat and wheat flour.

Years ago, I met a girl traveling through England at an ATM machine in London. She had difficulty using the machine for some reason. I stepped in, and we were acquainted. After that, she left for her onward travel to Nice (France) while I stayed in London. We used to send postcards to each other until we lost contact. 

Years passed.  Two weeks before I was to fly to Japan for a holiday, I received a Linked In request from her. It was such coincidence that my itinerary includes Hiroshima. My friend lives in Matsuyama, a city just a ferry ride from Hiroshima. Wouldn't it be great to catch up?

I was grateful that she took time off work to see me in Hiroshima. I wouldn't have minded seeing Ehime Prefecture and its capital, Matsuyama, but my schedule was tight and my bookings were fixed. Ehime is in northwest Shikoku. Anyway, what better way to chat away with a dear friend over Hiroshima's culinary contribution to the world - Okonomiyaki.

Where do we get Okonomiyaki?  Since we couldn't wander too far from the station (she had a ferry to catch in the early evening), we thought of finding a restaurant that served it. At the 2nd floor of Asse Building which is contiguous to JR Hiroshima Station, we found Reichan, a noodles bar mostly populated by locals. 

The shop was small, cramped, and busy. Turn over was fast so we didn't mind waiting for 15 minutes before we were ushered to our stools. I wasn't sure how to order properly, but Hiroko told me to choose which kind of noodle for my okonomiyaki: udon or soba.

Udon Versus Soba

Udon, commonly referred to as Ramen, is made of wheat. It is thicker than Soba which, on the other hand, is made of buckwheat and wheat flour, and has a higher protein and vitamin content. Soba is the healthier choice. I chose Udon. Hiroko picked Soba. But noodles are just part a layer of Okonomiyaki, also called "Japanese Pancakes".

History from Okonomiyakiworld: 

"The earliest origins of a basic crepe-like pancake date back to the Edo period (1683-1868) where these were a special desert called Funoyaki, served at Buddhist ceremonies. During Meiji Period (1968-1912), it evolved into a sweeter dish called Sukesoyaki. In the 20's and 30's the dish further evolved with sauces added to it. It was called Yoshokuyaki."

"The name Okonomiyaki (literally meaning "What you like, grilled") started in the late 30's in Osaka. Meanwhile, in Hiroshima, a similar crepe-like food became popular. It was topped with onions, folded over, and served to children as a snack item." 

"Okonomiyaki, in it's different variations, started to become more popular during the war when rice became scarce. The simple wheat pancake fit the bill. People started to add more ingredients such as eggs, pork, and cabbage. A restaurant from Osaka claims to have been the first to add Mayonnaise in 1946."

Hiroshima-style Okonomiyaki appears like a grilled pancake with ingredients layered on top. It uses much more cabbage than the Osaka version, where ingredients are mixed with the batter, instead of layered.

When my order came, I didn't know where to start. It was huge, folded over. Hiroko's was "prettier", with layers of cabbage jutting out. I'd rather not have mayonnaise on it, as I wanted to appreciate its full flavor.

I was halfway through when I realized I couldn't eat everything. Japanese servings are sizable.

Udon

Udon has thicker noodles, and is made of wheat flour.

Reichan in JR Hiroshima. This photo only from tripadvisor.

Eating Eels in Himeji (Hyogo Prefecture, Japan)

Eels. This photo from matome.naver.jp.

Japan consumes 70% of the Global Haul of Eels, yet I haven't tasted one. Their snake-like appearance repels me. But they're not snakes. Sea snakes don't have fins. They do. 

Eels are also nutritious because their meat is rich in omega-3 fatty acids, proteins, vitamin A and calcium. The Japanese terms: "unagi" for fresh-water eel, "anago" for salt water eel, which is the healthier option of the two, and less fattening.

EEL MEAL

From Hiroshima, on my way to Kobe, I decided to take a fast detour to Himeji, Hyogo Prefecture's 2nd biggest city, located at the western fringes of Kansai Region. I was there to see Japan's finest castle - Himeji Castle, which would become my favorite castle in all of Japan. 

After the castle visit, and a peek into gorgeous Kokoen Garden, I leisurely strolled back to the main street of Otemaedori towards the JR Himeji Station. I saw a quaint cafe with no English sign. I snuck my head in and loved the vibe inside. I was alone. An adorable old lady appeared so I decided to get my late lunch there - and have my very first eel meal. 

I ordered their Conger Eel Rice Meal set costing me 1,500 yen. The set has the usual miso soup, a salad, and the fried eel on a bowl. I initially placed my backpack beside the low table on the tatami mat but it was uncomfortable, so I transferred to the taller tables. 

I dug into my eel, done kabayaki style. The meat is firmer than I thought so there's a bit of chewing to be had. My anago-don was savory with a hint of sweetness. There was just a bit of aftertaste, but it could have been my imagination. Otherwise, I wouldn't consume every bit of my anago. Eels are a Japanese family's favorite when there are special occasions. When relatives huddle for a serious discussion, they have eel. I know this much from my Japanese movies. Haha

I was about to go when the photo of a dessert piece seduced my curiosity - Cool Zenzai for 650 yen. 

Zenzai is a traditional Japanese dessert.  It has a thick sweet soup with boiled azuki beans and mochi (rice cake); some have shiratama dango (glutinous rice flour dumplings) instead. Mine had a sea of white jelly. In East Japan, Zenzai, called Oshiruko, has a slight twist. It's a more watery preparation. This Kansai version though was delicious.

Cafe Jidai is located at the main commercial drag of Himeji, along Otemaedori street.

My Zenzai has red beans. mochi balls and white jelly cubes.

The main street, Otemaedori, is a straight line from the train station to Himeji Castle. I took this from the train platform. Cafe Jidai is at the left side of this photo.

#anago   #eel   # dining   #himeji   #hyogo

Resort Living at the M Hotel Downtown by Millennium, Dubai

It was the best and the worst of time. M Hotel Downtown by Millennium in Dubai was my sanctuary in the time of Ramadan, in the midst of the city's festering heat and humidity. One of my tour guides described how it's like being under the sun (even for just 5 minutes) - "like standing beside a raging barbecue". Another guide said, "it's like being pinched repeatedly." I had to stretch my imagination for that, but it was a valid description too. Prickly heat.

M Hotel Downtown, formerly Radisson Blu Downtown, rises at the fringes of Business Bay, the "downtown" area of the city's Central Business District (CBD), and Dubai's "most expensive area", according to the driver who picked me up from the airport. I wanted to be central. M Hotel is, in fact, 15 to 25 minutes walk from the world's biggest mall - the Dubai Mall. In its vicinity are the Dubai Fountain (the world's biggest musical fountain), the Dubai Mall metro station, and Burj Khalifa (the world's tallest man-made structure).

I was a bit anxious upon arrival; my first time in this city. In fact, I booked and paid for a separate room at the Donatello Hotel, a well-reviewed hotel near the Mall of Emirates. I was in fact throwing money, but for a good reason - security! Why the double booking? I wanted to make sure I had a room for the night. But that's for another story, which deserves a separate post - and there WILL be a separate post.

I was at the hotel front desk at 12 midnight. After billing me for an additional tourism tax (was it 15 dirham per day day?), and a refundable security deposit worth about 600 dirham (AED), I was inside my room 15 minutes later. I heaved a sigh of relief. After 9 hours of travel, sitting on my hotel bed was bliss. More importantly, I wasn't turned away. I booked via Agoda and completely paid for my room 2 months before my arrival. Agoda always gave me a sense of security. But the circumstance was a little different this time. I paid and booked yet I was anxious. Something is wrong with this picture, right?

M Hotel's prized gems are its staff. Pretty front desk officer Sharon was warm and accommodating, and even offered me her extra silver and gold NOL metro cards - for free. Which other hotel would do that for you? Concierge John always welcomed me with a smile every time I make my daily transit at the lobby. There must have been half a dozen other Filipinos working in the hotel, and they were impeccably professional, good natured and hospitable. 

There's a Sri Lankan guy outside who hails taxis for you. The hotel has a free shuttle that takes guests to Kite Beach and the Dubai Mall almost on an hourly basis, but I never used this service because I'd lose time with the waiting. The lobby also has security, a travel desk from Rayna Tours, and the restaurant concierge for the tea shop.

My booking was half board. This meant breakfast and the Iftar dinner, which I loved. People were always in celebratory spirits while they break their Ramadan fasting by 7 PM. Every day, I'd stuff myself during breakfast because it meant I wouldn't be able to freely consume food or drink water - or generally, just make merry, because of Ramadan. Doing these in public will get you fined or imprisoned. Iftar was the daily finishline, so to speak.

Tasting Emmental, Labneh,Basbousa, Jallab, etc.

It was fun fraternizing with the different food being served. The cheeses - I'd taste-test the feta and emmental, from brie and cheddar; take a sip of rosemilk (from sabja seeds and rose syrup) and a bit of jallab (a fruit syrup made from carrob, dates, grape molasses and rosemilk, popular in Jordan and Syria, with a taste closest to our Nestea but sweeter), followed by a slice of basbousa (a sweet cake made of semolina soaked in syrup) and halwa (sweets made of butter, sugar and flour). And what does labneh tastes like? It's a soft creamed cheese made from strained yoghurt, and if these sound foreign, they're nonetheless fun to discover.

My room at the 13th floor was big enough: double bed, refrigerator (that doesn't get cold); a daily supply of 2 bottles of water; clean sheets changed daily; spotless bathroom with good water pressure; a centralized AC that, at night gets glacial, even when you turn off the fan; 3 elevators that worked well - and then there's the view.

My room faced the expansive desert - barren and mysterious. I'd initially prefer the Dubai skyline littered with skyscrapers, but skylines are a dime a dozen, even in Manila, Peru or Mongolia. It isn't everyday you're privileged to say, "I have a view of the desert". Nope, you can't! As bonus, wifi is fast, though you lose the signal intermittently.

I'd sit on my special couch, read my emails before calling it a night, while I munch "cherries from Iran" which I'd buy from the W Supermart nearby at just 8 dirham (P120). It was a charmed existence, and I wallowed in it. M Hotel, despite several negative online reviews, was more than adequate for me. It was my home in Dubai, and I felt safe there.

Most Stressful Booking

Isn't it ironic then that, in all my years of travels and 50 countries later, M Hotel Downtown by Millennium, would also be my most stressful booking by Agoda? There is a long story here, and I will share it for posterity. Because, hundreds of hotels later, I hit a snag booking here. And I felt trapped!

Let me tell you that story - so others may learn. That cantankerous narrative is up next!

My booking nightmare: http://eye-in-the-blue-sky.blogspot.com/2018/07/m-hotel-downtown-by-millenniums-booking.html



#Mhoteldowntown   #Millennium  #Dubai  #agoda  

Trying Sewai in Abu Dhabi

                                           I had Sewai          

                                               *****

                                      in this restaurant

                                               Near this street below!

While touring Abu Dhabi with a motley of other tourists from Romania, Kazakhstan, Germany, India, Singapore, China, India, and Switzerland, we were taken to Al Ibrahimi Restaurant on Muroor Road for lunch. It serves international cuisine on its buffet spread. I saw jalebi, that Indian sweets made internationally famous by Dev Patel's Oscar-nominated movie, "Lion". But there was something else that caught my attention.

An Indian lady from Hyderabad quipped, "Try that. You'll like it." I was grateful for the recommendation, but I didn't need convincing. She said it was called "Sewai". It looked like a noodle dish. It's a coconut-based dessert with milk in it, the nice lady explained. It looked inviting.

Sewai, it turns out, is made with vermicelli, cooked in milk and dry fruits; a quintessential festival dessert usually made on the occasion of the Eid. There's a bit of cardamom in the milk with a pinch of saffron; other varieties carry almonds, raisins or cashew nuts. This particular Sewai didn't have those, which was probably good for me so I could concentrate on its taste.

Sweet?

Sweet.