Trainhopping from South to North of Japan: Kobe to Hirosaki in One Day

Hirosaki (Aomori Prefecture) is the “Kyoto of the North”. It took me 4 train changes and 13 long hours to travel from the Kansai region, south of Japan, all the way to the northernmost tip of Honshu Island. 

Aomori is the jump-off point for travels to the island of Hokkaido. The JR booking staff in Kobe had doubts about the itinerary because in one stop, I only had 10 minutes to find my next train. In Japan, sometimes looking for your platform can be a challenge. “You have to run fast,” he reminded me.

But I made it. It was an “amazing race” moment. But thanks to the reliability of Japanese trains. They’re a stickler to schedule. If anything, it would be the human factor that would de-rail the plan – me! I needed to be sharp, precise, decisive and fast. I had to be strong too because there was an 18 kilogram luggage – plus a backpack to consider.

Slept through the Tokyo-to-Aomori leg. Upon arrival in Hirosaki, it took me 5 minutes to check into my hotel. Toyoko Inn was just 2 minutes walk from the station exit. I amazingly felt rested. I love the comfort of Japanese trains. They’re clean, have good legroom, and seats are very comfortable. Plus, noise is moderated. Taking calls in the train is frowned upon. You have to go to the empty entrance area to do so.

I took a cab to the castle grounds. There was still light at past 6 PM. Hirosaki is considered the remote north. You have to get a limited 30-minute train ride from Aomori. Hirosaki Castle was beautiful under the fading sun. 

On my hike back to my hotel, I got lost. What should have been 15 minutes took 2 hours. And no one could help because it was a virtual ghost town, like Imaishi. I might as well be in a post-apocalyptic movie set. It wasn’t like I could knock on homes and say, “Can you point the way to the hotel?” It would weird people out. Apparently I was the only living soul walking the streets.

This was my 13-hour race to Zombietown!

Beautiful corner in Hirosaki Park (Aomori Prefecture)

Resort Living at the M Hotel Downtown by Millennium, Dubai

It was the best and the worst of time. M Hotel Downtown by Millennium in Dubai was my sanctuary in the time of Ramadan, in the midst of the city's festering heat and humidity. One of my tour guides described how it's like being under the sun (even for just 5 minutes) - "like standing beside a raging barbecue". Another guide said, "it's like being pinched repeatedly." I had to stretch my imagination for that, but it was a valid description too. Prickly heat.

M Hotel Downtown, formerly Radisson Blu Downtown, rises at the fringes of Business Bay, the "downtown" area of the city's Central Business District (CBD), and Dubai's "most expensive area", according to the driver who picked me up from the airport. I wanted to be central. M Hotel is, in fact, 15 to 25 minutes walk from the world's biggest mall - the Dubai Mall. In its vicinity are the Dubai Fountain (the world's biggest musical fountain), the Dubai Mall metro station, and Burj Khalifa (the world's tallest man-made structure).

I was a bit anxious upon arrival; my first time in this city. In fact, I booked and paid for a separate room at the Donatello Hotel, a well-reviewed hotel near the Mall of Emirates. I was in fact throwing money, but for a good reason - security! Why the double booking? I wanted to make sure I had a room for the night. But that's for another story, which deserves a separate post - and there WILL be a separate post.

I was at the hotel front desk at 12 midnight. After billing me for an additional tourism tax (was it 15 dirham per day day?), and a refundable security deposit worth about 600 dirham (AED), I was inside my room 15 minutes later. I heaved a sigh of relief. After 9 hours of travel, sitting on my hotel bed was bliss. More importantly, I wasn't turned away. I booked via Agoda and completely paid for my room 2 months before my arrival. Agoda always gave me a sense of security. But the circumstance was a little different this time. I paid and booked yet I was anxious. Something is wrong with this picture, right?

M Hotel's prized gems are its staff. Pretty front desk officer Sharon was warm and accommodating, and even offered me her extra silver and gold NOL metro cards - for free. Which other hotel would do that for you? Concierge John always welcomed me with a smile every time I make my daily transit at the lobby. There must have been half a dozen other Filipinos working in the hotel, and they were impeccably professional, good natured and hospitable. 

There's a Sri Lankan guy outside who hails taxis for you. The hotel has a free shuttle that takes guests to Kite Beach and the Dubai Mall almost on an hourly basis, but I never used this service because I'd lose time with the waiting. The lobby also has security, a travel desk from Rayna Tours, and the restaurant concierge for the tea shop.

My booking was half board. This meant breakfast and the Iftar dinner, which I loved. People were always in celebratory spirits while they break their Ramadan fasting by 7 PM. Every day, I'd stuff myself during breakfast because it meant I wouldn't be able to freely consume food or drink water - or generally, just make merry, because of Ramadan. Doing these in public will get you fined or imprisoned. Iftar was the daily finishline, so to speak.

Tasting Emmental, Labneh,Basbousa, Jallab, etc.

It was fun fraternizing with the different food being served. The cheeses - I'd taste-test the feta and emmental, from brie and cheddar; take a sip of rosemilk (from sabja seeds and rose syrup) and a bit of jallab (a fruit syrup made from carrob, dates, grape molasses and rosemilk, popular in Jordan and Syria, with a taste closest to our Nestea but sweeter), followed by a slice of basbousa (a sweet cake made of semolina soaked in syrup) and halwa (sweets made of butter, sugar and flour). And what does labneh tastes like? It's a soft creamed cheese made from strained yoghurt, and if these sound foreign, they're nonetheless fun to discover.

My room at the 13th floor was big enough: double bed, refrigerator (that doesn't get cold); a daily supply of 2 bottles of water; clean sheets changed daily; spotless bathroom with good water pressure; a centralized AC that, at night gets glacial, even when you turn off the fan; 3 elevators that worked well - and then there's the view.

My room faced the expansive desert - barren and mysterious. I'd initially prefer the Dubai skyline littered with skyscrapers, but skylines are a dime a dozen, even in Manila, Peru or Mongolia. It isn't everyday you're privileged to say, "I have a view of the desert". Nope, you can't! As bonus, wifi is fast, though you lose the signal intermittently.

I'd sit on my special couch, read my emails before calling it a night, while I munch "cherries from Iran" which I'd buy from the W Supermart nearby at just 8 dirham (P120). It was a charmed existence, and I wallowed in it. M Hotel, despite several negative online reviews, was more than adequate for me. It was my home in Dubai, and I felt safe there.

Most Stressful Booking

Isn't it ironic then that, in all my years of travels and 50 countries later, M Hotel Downtown by Millennium, would also be my most stressful booking by Agoda? There is a long story here, and I will share it for posterity. Because, hundreds of hotels later, I hit a snag booking here. And I felt trapped!

Let me tell you that story - so others may learn. That cantankerous narrative is up next!

My booking nightmare: http://eye-in-the-blue-sky.blogspot.com/2018/07/m-hotel-downtown-by-millenniums-booking.html



#Mhoteldowntown   #Millennium  #Dubai  #agoda  

The Search for Misokatsu in Nagoya, Japan

Traditionally, a Japanese meal starts with a miso soup served on a table. Miso is made from fermented soybeans and grain. In Nagoya, one of its traditional dishes is Misokatsu, a deep fried pork cutlet with red miso sauce, usually served on a sizzling plate. This was one of the three Nagoyan dishes we looked for in Nagoya, Japan's 3rd largest metropolitan conurbation, located in the Chubu region. Nagoya is the capital of Aichi Prefecture.

Unfortunately, Misokatsu wasn't that easy to find despite being supposedly popular. This was why we made it our mission to get one as we were about to leave the city. From Nagoya Station, I headed to Fushimi Station and walked from there. After checking out the grounds of Shirakawa Park, Nagoya City Art Museum and the Science Museum, which I found underlit at night, I crossed the highway and started asking around. 

MISOKATSU YABATON

A beautiful restaurant with inexpensive but delectable-looking dishes caught my attention at the street corner. I asked if they served Misokatsu. They didn't, but the owner patiently walked me to the next block, and gave instructions in English. Don't take too long, he said. The diner would close at 10. I was grateful for the help, then went my way. 

The walk took about 40 minutes, until I finally reached a brightly lit shop with no English sign, except that a "happy pig" was prominently on display on its ceiling. I took a chance, snuck my head in, and asked, "Misokatsu"? The lady server nodded and invited me in. I reached my destination.

Misokatsu Yabaton is a specialty restaurant serving Misokatsu. It's located at the Yaba-cho Honten (Main Shop) in the Osu area.

There was a queue inside. If you were a solo diner, you'd have to wait for a seat at the bar, which was full when I arrived. If you were with a group, you will be ushered upstairs. Tables are not made available for solo diners. I stood at the other side of the room and waited with two other guys for what seemed like 20 minutes.. When my turn came, my food was ready within a minute. 

I ordered Teppan Tonkatsu served over a fluffy bed of cabbage leaves. Serving was huge and the meat looked red; I could smell my dinner. It was savory and tender. I started to understand why the dish is a local favorite.

Misokatsu was supposedly concocted in 1947 and has since spread all over the city. It comes in a variety of preparations. 

Kurobota

The diner offers Misokatsu using a gourmet pork meat called Kurobota, or heritage black pigs known for their intensely flavorful meat and fat. Outside Japan, they're called "black hog pigs" or Berkshire Pigs (as they were believed to have been originally grown in England). Kurobota is considered the "Wagyu Beef of Pork", high-end pork with the price tag to match. I considered ordering the Kurobota Misokatsu, but eventually decided against it. I wasn't really that hungry. I just wanted a taste of Misokatsu.

That's one special dish ticked off.  

I had to stand on queue and wait for 20 minutes while solo diners finish their respective meals.

Misokatsu Yabaton Yaba-cho (Main Shop)

I wanted to have my dinner here but they didn't serve Misokatsu. The owner went out of his way to direct me towards Misokatsu Yabaton.

Outside Nagoya City Science Museum

Nagoya City Art Museum

I had to cross this highway from Shirakawa Park to look for Misokatsu at 9 PM.

#Nagoya   #misokatsu   #Japan   #foodporn   #dining   #Lifestyle

Kato Kiyomasa - Conqueror, Castle-Maker, Christian Butcher from Kumamoto Castle (Kumamoto, Kyushu)

In a sudden burst of inspiration, one rainy day in Fukuoka, I decided to go to Kumamoto, 114 kilometers southeast of Fukuoka. I had 4 hours to spare so why not see another Japanese city from a different prefecture (Kumamoto prefecture). By shinkansen, the trip took less than an hour. My destination was the castle.

Since its devastation from an earthquake, Kumamoto Castle has been closed for a major restoration, but this doesn't stop tourists from visiting the grounds surrounding it. More than the splendor of Japan's 3rd largest castle, it has a colorful history. 

Kato Kiyomasa, a ferocious feudal Lord (referred to as daimyo) transformed a small castle into a towering fortress in the early 1600s. Kiyomasa was one of the three conquerors of Seoul and Busan in his heyday. In Kyushu, he was brutal in pursuing Christians. He'd capture pregnant Christian women and slice their bulging bellies alive; remove the unborn child and cut their heads. His mind was in a constant state of war, thus he marked his territories with imposing castles. He ruled his ward with an iron fist and outlawed anything else not related to honing one's fighting skills. Poetry out! Music out! Painting out!

These days, Kato Kiyomasa's statue graces the nearby entrance of Kumamoto Castle. He sits atop a platform, waving a flag, wearing an unusually tall hat, it might as well be Merlin's. If you're visiting the castle grounds, you shouldn't miss Kiyomasa's scowling statue. Otherwise, it's like visiting Tokyo's Shibuya and missing Hachiko.

What I thoroughly enjoyed was the local food found in the shopping arcade near the entrance. I bought souvenir items: those boring postcards and ref magnets; food made out of horse meat, sea urchins, lotus, red beans, and matcha-flavored drinks. And there's that delightful Kumamoto Ramen. When it was time to head back for my train, I was uncomfortably satiated.

The castle's non-appearance was really a seductive invitation. Come back again and see me, I could hear its whisper.

Kumamon (right) is the city's lovable icon. He was voted as Japan's most favorite mascot! You find him in shops and parks, and he has a big head at the Kumamoto Train Station.

Kumamoto Castle. This image only is courtesy of hyolee2 of Wikipedia.

Gorgeous Spaces at the Diamond Suites and Residences (Cebu City)

I love clean spaces particularly if it plays with geometric figures, color, and lights. My German friend once pointed out how I kept taking photos of hallways. I just like the possibilities of open spaces, the what-could-be's. In this post, I am posting several areas at the Diamond Suites and Residences in Cebu City.

The Archbishop Reyes Street and Escario area is a haven of big, mostly new sparkling hotels. I have stayed in each one except for Park Lane and Hotel Elizabeth. Diamond is one of the smaller hotels in the area but it's also more intimate. Agoda offers slightly more expensive rates compared to other hotels in the area, like Mandarin Plaza and Quest Hotel so all these years, this has made me wonder.

Finally, I gave it a try. This is what I found out: great staff; breakfast buffet at the ground floor restaurant called "Grain Restaurant" offers a set of delectable food although the choices are rather limited. Rooms are spacious and very clean, particularly the bathrooms. Memory Pillows are very comfortable. Boxed type AC's give it a dated feel but AC's work adequately.

What bothered me was the wifi connection which was non-existent in my room at the 4th floor. It never worked - at all! I asked for a LAN cable but though this finally gave me an online connection, it was plodding. In this day and age, there really is no excuse for having no wifi service. I will never book in a hotel without it in my room. Internet access is essential.

If I have internet wifi in my hotel rooms in Madagascar, the world's 10th poorest country, how can a suites hotel like Diamond Suites and Residences NOT have one? It baffles. So this is something the hotel can obviously improve on. Wifi at the lobby is fast but I can't work overtime at the lobby. Good elevator; there's a pool but I didn't bother to check it out. Ayala Mall is just a block away.

This is the Eye in the Sky!

"the possibilities of open spaces... the what-could-be's"

How's this for breakfast?

Grain Restaurant

Entrance facing Apitong Street. Multicabs heading for Jones or Colon pass through this street.