Denarau Island as Jump Off Point to Paradise (Viti Levu, Fiji)

Denarau Island is a multi-use facility for Fiji's tourists located west of Viti Levu, Fiji's main island. Attached to the main land by a short causeway, the island is the home of Port Denarau, the jump off point for travels to the islands of the Mamanucas and the Yasawas further north. 

It has Port Denarau Shopping Center, cafes and restaurants like the Hard Rock Cafe, a bakery; a pizza parlor; an Indian, Chinese, Fijian and Italian restaurant; a New Zealand ice creamery; a jewelry shop; several spas and hair/nail salon; an apparel shop (Harrisons); a car rental shop; foreign exchange; a medical and diagnostic center; a Westpac Bank and even a law firm, if you require representation in Fiji - Heaven forbid. 

It is home to posh 5-star hotels like Radisson Blu, Westin, Hilton, Sheraton, Wyndham and Sofitel. Simply put, it's the most non-Fijian place in all of Fiji. It also has a beautiful 18-hole golf course you'll see on your way to the port and shopping center.

A taxi from Wailoaloa Beach or Nadi to Denarau will cost you around F$15-20 one-way. It takes about 10-15 minutes covering 9.4 kilometers. 

I haven't really explored much of Denarau. Most tourists are always on a rush to either catch their chartered boats or hop into their Sea Cruise buses back to their hotels and guesthouses in Nadi or Wailoaloa. 

I didn't want to miss my bus because it's free service when you book for an island visit or head to one of the islands for a few days via the Yasawa Flyer. 

Port Denarau has a small building littered with many travel booths where you can buy tours. You can exchange your Bula Pass vouchers here for your boarding formality. For my visit to Castaway Island (from that Tom Hanks movie), I worried about my passport because I forgot to take it with me. But it wasn't necessary as long as you have your tour voucher or Bula Pass with you. I think, though, it is safer to have your passport with you. 

There is no waiting hall inside the building. You just stand near the jetty outside and wait for your yacht to board. Like most of Fiji, the dynamics of boarding your ride are relaxed. 

If you love shopping, Denarau is the place for you, although the airport has several shops that are surprisingly cheaper than the ones I saw in Wailoaloa or Nadi. Airport shops are usually more expensive. Not in Fiji.

I am not sure if it's a good idea to hike from Denarau to Nadi, particularly if you have heavy luggage with you. Remember that Denarau is considered private property (supposedly) with commercial activity. You're there to dine or shop; board a boat, check in at one of the posh hotels, or play golf. In short, paying guests are welcome.

Rent an electric bike at F$9/hour or F$38/day.

The port's check-in counter. has friendly staff.

After check-in, you go outside and wait for calls to your ship's boarding. No benches here.

Directory of Shops, Services and Offices in Port Denarau Shopping Center:

This photo only courtesy of www.fiji.travel/us

#denarauisland   #fiji   #melanesia   #southpacific   #port

Fijian Tales - Traditional Dining at the Tropic's Bamboo Kitchen (Nadi)

It was early morning Sunday when my plane landed in Viti Levu, Fiji's main island. The airport town of Nadi (the newly minted 3rd city of the country) slumbers on a Sunday. In fact, nothing stirs all over the islands. They take their Sabbath day seriously as a great number of its population are Christians, then Hindu and Muslims. Most shops are closed. Even public transportation isn't running, except the taxis. Tropic of Capricorn sent someone to pick me up at the airport. He was waving a bond paper with my name written on it. Before 7 AM, I was already in front of the Tropic of Capricorn Beach Resort at the edge of Wailoaloa Bay.

 I was in a daze, partly due to the 13-hour plane ride, the change of time zone and because I was coming up with the flu. 

Unfortunately, I couldn't be accommodated until about 11 AM, when a room became available. I wouldn't have minded otherwise if Nadi was "open for business". But there was nothing to do. I couldn't even go to town and check out the shops. 

Nothing Urgent

To make the best of the situation, I took a stroll along Wailoaloa Beach, with its placid waters and the gentlest of ripples. When the resort's Bamboo Kitchen (Tropic Cafe) opened, I ordered breakfast. This took awhile. Everything in Fiji takes awhile. Nothing is urgent here. If you are in a hurry, I would be sorry for you. In southeast Asia, Laos has its "Please Don't Rush" demeanor? Try Fiji. 

Breakfast was 4 pieces of bread dipped in rich egg butter served with lightly cooked bacon strips.

Everyone at the Bamboo Kitchen introduced themselves. Nanni, Maria. I met Teddy and Marlon by the pool. Everyone was warm and accommodating, wearing their radiant smiles with an ebullient "Bula!" It's their "Mabuhay" - their welcome salutations; their hello, their good morning, etc. 

Later that night, I chose a customary Fijian dish so I ordered "Coconut Crumb Chicken" at F$15 (P385). What went to my table was a delectable work of art that looked more like a dessert than a meal. It was chicken crumbed (breaded chicken) in coconut flesh served with pineapple and tomato salsa with a side of spinach, cassava and lemon butter sauce. Fijian meals usually contain coconut, taro, yam or sweet potato. This one had baked taro leaves that tasted good. Cassava slice was chewy and tasty.  Sprinkled with bits of pineapple and tomato, the whole concoction beautifully came together with slices of chicken. I felt smug.

The restaurant itself was open spaced, facing a grassy lawn with cots and benches. A few steps away, the South Pacific beckoned. It was the perfect meal to end an exhausting first day in Melanesia.

As a child, I used to watch that Rodgers and Hammerstein musical. I could hear Bloody Mary sing "Bali Hai". 

I was standing on its set.

My first meal and breakfast in Fiji. Nothing fancy but the price.

Bamboo Kitchen

Tropic of Capricorn Beach Resort faces Wailoaloa Bay. My room was at the 3rd floor, left side of the photo.

Nadi is located west of Viti Levu. This photo only from Dolphin Island's website.