Fijian Tales - Traditional Dining at the Tropic's Bamboo Kitchen (Nadi)

It was early morning Sunday when my plane landed in Viti Levu, Fiji's main island. The airport town of Nadi (the newly minted 3rd city of the country) slumbers on a Sunday. In fact, nothing stirs all over the islands. They take their Sabbath day seriously as a great number of its population are Christians, then Hindu and Muslims. Most shops are closed. Even public transportation isn't running, except the taxis. Tropic of Capricorn sent someone to pick me up at the airport. He was waving a bond paper with my name written on it. Before 7 AM, I was already in front of the Tropic of Capricorn Beach Resort at the edge of Wailoaloa Bay.

 I was in a daze, partly due to the 13-hour plane ride, the change of time zone and because I was coming up with the flu. 

Unfortunately, I couldn't be accommodated until about 11 AM, when a room became available. I wouldn't have minded otherwise if Nadi was "open for business". But there was nothing to do. I couldn't even go to town and check out the shops. 

Nothing Urgent

To make the best of the situation, I took a stroll along Wailoaloa Beach, with its placid waters and the gentlest of ripples. When the resort's Bamboo Kitchen (Tropic Cafe) opened, I ordered breakfast. This took awhile. Everything in Fiji takes awhile. Nothing is urgent here. If you are in a hurry, I would be sorry for you. In southeast Asia, Laos has its "Please Don't Rush" demeanor? Try Fiji. 

Breakfast was 4 pieces of bread dipped in rich egg butter served with lightly cooked bacon strips.

Everyone at the Bamboo Kitchen introduced themselves. Nanni, Maria. I met Teddy and Marlon by the pool. Everyone was warm and accommodating, wearing their radiant smiles with an ebullient "Bula!" It's their "Mabuhay" - their welcome salutations; their hello, their good morning, etc. 

Later that night, I chose a customary Fijian dish so I ordered "Coconut Crumb Chicken" at F$15 (P385). What went to my table was a delectable work of art that looked more like a dessert than a meal. It was chicken crumbed (breaded chicken) in coconut flesh served with pineapple and tomato salsa with a side of spinach, cassava and lemon butter sauce. Fijian meals usually contain coconut, taro, yam or sweet potato. This one had baked taro leaves that tasted good. Cassava slice was chewy and tasty.  Sprinkled with bits of pineapple and tomato, the whole concoction beautifully came together with slices of chicken. I felt smug.

The restaurant itself was open spaced, facing a grassy lawn with cots and benches. A few steps away, the South Pacific beckoned. It was the perfect meal to end an exhausting first day in Melanesia.

As a child, I used to watch that Rodgers and Hammerstein musical. I could hear Bloody Mary sing "Bali Hai". 

I was standing on its set.

My first meal and breakfast in Fiji. Nothing fancy but the price.

Bamboo Kitchen

Tropic of Capricorn Beach Resort faces Wailoaloa Bay. My room was at the 3rd floor, left side of the photo.

Nadi is located west of Viti Levu. This photo only from Dolphin Island's website.

Fukushima District's Machiya Houses in Yame City (Fukuoka Prefecture, Kyushu)

Some of the most beautiful of Japanese countryside I have seen are in the remote corners of Yame City in Kyushu. That's a fact that doesn't need sugarcoating. Thus when I read about Fukushima District's row of "Machiya" (traditional town houses), I knew that's where I wanted to go first. Take me there!

White Clay Walls

There are about 130 documented buildings of varying designs from the Meiji, Taisho and Showa era; houses of merchants and craftsmen. The walls were made of white clay to protect the houses from fire. 

But they have ceased to be residential houses. Very few were turned into cafes. Most have been turned into shops selling tea, paper lanterns, miso shops, altar stores, family confectioneries, seed suppliers, fish paste shops and family grocers. Without a doubt, these made the area vibrant, and the central point of Yame. On paper, the whole she-bang sounded exciting.

In 1587, Fukushima Castle was built here. A town eventually grew and flourished around the castle. But in 1620, about 33 years after the castle was put up, Kurome Domain took control of the area and the castle had to be demolished. I think there was a law that prohibited having more than one castle in a locality. Nowadays, the houses were turned into stores and workshops for handicraft and other products, 

Hakata to Chikugo City

This is where I came to visit. From Fukuoka, I took a JR train from Hakata Station to Hainuzuka Station. The JR staff had to consult a thick book of JR schedules since they weren't very familiar with Yame's train schedule. Running southeast, my train took 40 minutes to get to Hainuzuka, which is located in the small city called Chikugo. I had to be vigilant and attentive because every stop wasn't announced. Even the LED prompter on my train was written in Japanese characters. I didn't want to miss my train stop.

Station Stops

My train had a terminal stop at Omuta, departing the platform at 8:40 AM. From Hakata, it had stops at the following: Akeshita, Sasabaru, Minami-Fukuoka, Onojo, Futsukaichi, Haruda, Kiyama, Tosu, Kurume, Araki, and then Hainuzuka for my stop, arriving at 9:20 AM.

Hainuzuka Station had few commuters. The station was opened in 1891 and is now 127 years old. Knowing that impressed me. If you don't have a car with you, the Horkawa Bus Stop is just 50 meters from the station. The bus can take you all the way to Yame and Kurogi.

Upon reaching Fukushima, it was drizzling. I wasn't sure if cars were allowed to park by the road side. I stepped outside feeling the electricity of excitement run down my spine. Stood on the road where the Machiya house are. And sighed.

The restoration, unfortunately, didn't look impressive. This was how it may have looked back in the days, but there was nothing to crow about. The place looked rundown. Maybe I was in the wrong section of Fukushima? Most shops were closed, unless it is tradition to shut their doors and have tourists knock on them. I didn't think so.

"This is it?" I thought.

Photo of Fukushima District from a museum I visited.

Machiyas had fire-proof white clay walls. Miniatures of Fukushima.

#yamecity   #fukuokaprefecture   #kyushu   #japan   #fukushima