Fijian Tales - Traditional Dining at the Tropic's Bamboo Kitchen (Nadi)

It was early morning Sunday when my plane landed in Viti Levu, Fiji's main island. The airport town of Nadi (the newly minted 3rd city of the country) slumbers on a Sunday. In fact, nothing stirs all over the islands. They take their Sabbath day seriously as a great number of its population are Christians, then Hindu and Muslims. Most shops are closed. Even public transportation isn't running, except the taxis. Tropic of Capricorn sent someone to pick me up at the airport. He was waving a bond paper with my name written on it. Before 7 AM, I was already in front of the Tropic of Capricorn Beach Resort at the edge of Wailoaloa Bay.

 I was in a daze, partly due to the 13-hour plane ride, the change of time zone and because I was coming up with the flu. 

Unfortunately, I couldn't be accommodated until about 11 AM, when a room became available. I wouldn't have minded otherwise if Nadi was "open for business". But there was nothing to do. I couldn't even go to town and check out the shops. 

Nothing Urgent

To make the best of the situation, I took a stroll along Wailoaloa Beach, with its placid waters and the gentlest of ripples. When the resort's Bamboo Kitchen (Tropic Cafe) opened, I ordered breakfast. This took awhile. Everything in Fiji takes awhile. Nothing is urgent here. If you are in a hurry, I would be sorry for you. In southeast Asia, Laos has its "Please Don't Rush" demeanor? Try Fiji. 

Breakfast was 4 pieces of bread dipped in rich egg butter served with lightly cooked bacon strips.

Everyone at the Bamboo Kitchen introduced themselves. Nanni, Maria. I met Teddy and Marlon by the pool. Everyone was warm and accommodating, wearing their radiant smiles with an ebullient "Bula!" It's their "Mabuhay" - their welcome salutations; their hello, their good morning, etc. 

Later that night, I chose a customary Fijian dish so I ordered "Coconut Crumb Chicken" at F$15 (P385). What went to my table was a delectable work of art that looked more like a dessert than a meal. It was chicken crumbed (breaded chicken) in coconut flesh served with pineapple and tomato salsa with a side of spinach, cassava and lemon butter sauce. Fijian meals usually contain coconut, taro, yam or sweet potato. This one had baked taro leaves that tasted good. Cassava slice was chewy and tasty.  Sprinkled with bits of pineapple and tomato, the whole concoction beautifully came together with slices of chicken. I felt smug.

The restaurant itself was open spaced, facing a grassy lawn with cots and benches. A few steps away, the South Pacific beckoned. It was the perfect meal to end an exhausting first day in Melanesia.

As a child, I used to watch that Rodgers and Hammerstein musical. I could hear Bloody Mary sing "Bali Hai". 

I was standing on its set.

My first meal and breakfast in Fiji. Nothing fancy but the price.

Bamboo Kitchen

Tropic of Capricorn Beach Resort faces Wailoaloa Bay. My room was at the 3rd floor, left side of the photo.

Nadi is located west of Viti Levu. This photo only from Dolphin Island's website.

Okonomiyaki in Reichan (Hiroshima, Japan)

Soba has thinner noodles, and is made of buckwheat and wheat flour.

Years ago, I met a girl traveling through England at an ATM machine in London. She had difficulty using the machine for some reason. I stepped in, and we were acquainted. After that, she left for her onward travel to Nice (France) while I stayed in London. We used to send postcards to each other until we lost contact. 

Years passed.  Two weeks before I was to fly to Japan for a holiday, I received a Linked In request from her. It was such coincidence that my itinerary includes Hiroshima. My friend lives in Matsuyama, a city just a ferry ride from Hiroshima. Wouldn't it be great to catch up?

I was grateful that she took time off work to see me in Hiroshima. I wouldn't have minded seeing Ehime Prefecture and its capital, Matsuyama, but my schedule was tight and my bookings were fixed. Ehime is in northwest Shikoku. Anyway, what better way to chat away with a dear friend over Hiroshima's culinary contribution to the world - Okonomiyaki.

Where do we get Okonomiyaki?  Since we couldn't wander too far from the station (she had a ferry to catch in the early evening), we thought of finding a restaurant that served it. At the 2nd floor of Asse Building which is contiguous to JR Hiroshima Station, we found Reichan, a noodles bar mostly populated by locals. 

The shop was small, cramped, and busy. Turn over was fast so we didn't mind waiting for 15 minutes before we were ushered to our stools. I wasn't sure how to order properly, but Hiroko told me to choose which kind of noodle for my okonomiyaki: udon or soba.

Udon Versus Soba

Udon, commonly referred to as Ramen, is made of wheat. It is thicker than Soba which, on the other hand, is made of buckwheat and wheat flour, and has a higher protein and vitamin content. Soba is the healthier choice. I chose Udon. Hiroko picked Soba. But noodles are just part a layer of Okonomiyaki, also called "Japanese Pancakes".

History from Okonomiyakiworld: 

"The earliest origins of a basic crepe-like pancake date back to the Edo period (1683-1868) where these were a special desert called Funoyaki, served at Buddhist ceremonies. During Meiji Period (1968-1912), it evolved into a sweeter dish called Sukesoyaki. In the 20's and 30's the dish further evolved with sauces added to it. It was called Yoshokuyaki."

"The name Okonomiyaki (literally meaning "What you like, grilled") started in the late 30's in Osaka. Meanwhile, in Hiroshima, a similar crepe-like food became popular. It was topped with onions, folded over, and served to children as a snack item." 

"Okonomiyaki, in it's different variations, started to become more popular during the war when rice became scarce. The simple wheat pancake fit the bill. People started to add more ingredients such as eggs, pork, and cabbage. A restaurant from Osaka claims to have been the first to add Mayonnaise in 1946."

Hiroshima-style Okonomiyaki appears like a grilled pancake with ingredients layered on top. It uses much more cabbage than the Osaka version, where ingredients are mixed with the batter, instead of layered.

When my order came, I didn't know where to start. It was huge, folded over. Hiroko's was "prettier", with layers of cabbage jutting out. I'd rather not have mayonnaise on it, as I wanted to appreciate its full flavor.

I was halfway through when I realized I couldn't eat everything. Japanese servings are sizable.

Udon

Udon has thicker noodles, and is made of wheat flour.

Reichan in JR Hiroshima. This photo only from tripadvisor.

Keika Ramen's Soy Sauce-Based Shoyo in Shinjuku (Tokyo)

Just beside Tokyu Stay, my hotel in Shinjuku Suehiro, was a ramen shop offering no-frills dining in this metropolitan corner. Keika Ramen originated from Kumamoto - home of tonkotsu ramen, thus you see the prefecture's icon Kumamon somewhere in their shop. It's been in business for 30 years.

Keika is a small ramen bar with affordable dishes on their menu. Upon entry, they will offer you an English menu (if you need it). Once you've picked your choice, you order it from a vendo machine just beside the door. The process can get intimidating because the vendo isn't in English, but you can ask for assistance from the waiter. Then you hand your order's receipt to the cook. In a short while, your ramen is served steaming before you. The seating is on a bar. The joint is too small for proper tables. Turnover is fast as most clients don't linger too long.

Classes of Ramen

I ordered Shoyo (syoyo) Ramen which is soy sauce based. Other major classess of ramen include Shio (shiyo) Ramen which is salt based; Miso Ramen has fermented bean paste; and Tonkotsu Ramen is pork broth based. My bowl includes 2 soft-boiled eggs, and cabbage strips. It is a sizable serving at 980 yen. 

This area in Shinjuku Suehiro is littered with shops that stay open til the wee hours. Further on are night clubs, adult venues and go-go bars so it can get interesting. In spite of this, the place doesn't feel seedy or shady. There's an entrance to the Shinjuku station nearby (through an underground tunnel), although it's easy to get disoriented. I kept getting lost; I had to always "find" my way back to the hotel. 

Grimm's Affordable Steaks in Busy Harajuku (Tokyo, Japan)

Central Tokyo isn't a place for those on shoe-string budget. When you're in wards like Shinjuku, Shibuya, Roponggi, Ginza or Harajuku, it isn't easy finding restaurants with inexpensive food... particularly when you're craving for the occasional steak. The area teems with high end shops and trendy boutiques.

I was in Harajuku, visiting the H.I.S. Tourist Information Center when I noticed the pictures of food offered in an oddly named restaurant called Grimm, accessible through a narrow stairway leading to a basement. 

Grimm is what they call a Yoshoku, a Japanese-style western-influenced eatery. It is small, with only 7 tables. Each can sit 4 people. Due to the size of the restaurant, the place fills up easily. I had a 15-minute wait standing by the stairs before I was accommodated. The waiting staff was fast, but due to the volume of customers didn't have time for pleasantries. Food takes time so while you're waiting for your food, there's nothing much to do but fiddle with your phone. If you're dining solo, you'd have to share your table with others. Young locals mostly populate Grimm. 

I ordered pork steak which came 15 minutes later. Like most Yoshoku set meals, this had rice, soup and salad. The plating looked messy with pork cutlets, butter, lemon, beans and corn. Despite the presentation, my meal was tasty. And since it just costs 850 yen (tax included) right in the heart of busy Harajuku, this was a steal. If you're in a budget, look no further. 

Grimm's limited space provides a no-frills atmosphere of local color, like you're in the thick of Tokyo's underbelly. Consider that Harajuku is flanked by Shinjuku and Shibuya. If you're traveling solo, you feel this sumptuous disconnect inherent in Tokyo. Does that make sense?

Grimm is open daily from 5 PM onward.

There's a stairway leading to the basement where Grimm is.

The street scene outside Grimm in Harajuku.

Eating Eels in Himeji (Hyogo Prefecture, Japan)

Eels. This photo from matome.naver.jp.

Japan consumes 70% of the Global Haul of Eels, yet I haven't tasted one. Their snake-like appearance repels me. But they're not snakes. Sea snakes don't have fins. They do. 

Eels are also nutritious because their meat is rich in omega-3 fatty acids, proteins, vitamin A and calcium. The Japanese terms: "unagi" for fresh-water eel, "anago" for salt water eel, which is the healthier option of the two, and less fattening.

EEL MEAL

From Hiroshima, on my way to Kobe, I decided to take a fast detour to Himeji, Hyogo Prefecture's 2nd biggest city, located at the western fringes of Kansai Region. I was there to see Japan's finest castle - Himeji Castle, which would become my favorite castle in all of Japan. 

After the castle visit, and a peek into gorgeous Kokoen Garden, I leisurely strolled back to the main street of Otemaedori towards the JR Himeji Station. I saw a quaint cafe with no English sign. I snuck my head in and loved the vibe inside. I was alone. An adorable old lady appeared so I decided to get my late lunch there - and have my very first eel meal. 

I ordered their Conger Eel Rice Meal set costing me 1,500 yen. The set has the usual miso soup, a salad, and the fried eel on a bowl. I initially placed my backpack beside the low table on the tatami mat but it was uncomfortable, so I transferred to the taller tables. 

I dug into my eel, done kabayaki style. The meat is firmer than I thought so there's a bit of chewing to be had. My anago-don was savory with a hint of sweetness. There was just a bit of aftertaste, but it could have been my imagination. Otherwise, I wouldn't consume every bit of my anago. Eels are a Japanese family's favorite when there are special occasions. When relatives huddle for a serious discussion, they have eel. I know this much from my Japanese movies. Haha

I was about to go when the photo of a dessert piece seduced my curiosity - Cool Zenzai for 650 yen. 

Zenzai is a traditional Japanese dessert.  It has a thick sweet soup with boiled azuki beans and mochi (rice cake); some have shiratama dango (glutinous rice flour dumplings) instead. Mine had a sea of white jelly. In East Japan, Zenzai, called Oshiruko, has a slight twist. It's a more watery preparation. This Kansai version though was delicious.

Cafe Jidai is located at the main commercial drag of Himeji, along Otemaedori street.

My Zenzai has red beans. mochi balls and white jelly cubes.

The main street, Otemaedori, is a straight line from the train station to Himeji Castle. I took this from the train platform. Cafe Jidai is at the left side of this photo.

#anago   #eel   # dining   #himeji   #hyogo

Burj Al Arab's Al Muntaha - Dining at the 27th Floor of the World's 7-Star Hotel

Decided to reserve a seat for lunch at Al Muntaha, a luxurious restaurant serving modern French cuisine at the 27th floor of Burj Al Arab (BAA), the world's first 7-star hotel, and an iconic symbol of Dubai. I had been scouting for that perfect restaurant to suit my taste, cater to my curiosity, and experience something special. I liked the altitude, and that it's French more than Middle Eastern cuisine. Bab Al Yam and Sahn Eddar were among the options. But I didn't want to be completely in the fog about the food, as I rarely visit a middle-eastern restaurant in Manila. With French though, at least I can enunciate "hollandaise" - but not "vichyssoise", okay? Give me shish tawouk or baba ghanoush and I'd hear crickets.

Burj Al Arab has a strict guest policy, thus if you aren't one, you don't get to visit even the lobby. Photography inside is regulated. Remember that in the UAE, taking photos of anyone without his consent can get you fined - or in jail. What makes BAA more restrictive to outsiders is its construction. The odd-shaped building stands over the waters of the Persian Gulf. There is a bridge that takes you to the hotel entrance. There's security that will double check your presence.

THE PERFECT TABLE

At 12:30 PM, I was allowed to take the elevator to the 27th floor. Lead to my table, I was surprised to get a beautiful spot with a view of the hazy skyline outside. The expanse of the Arabian ocean stretched out west until it faded into a haze. 

I thought I'd be stuck with a table near a toilet, like the complaint of one guest I read somewhere. Lo and behold, mine was a prime seat. There's one waiter tasked to serve your 3-course meal. He then explains everything served on your table. Despite the air of sophistication and opulence (which may intimidate some folks), Al Muntaha basks in a relaxed atmosphere; not at all stuffy. I could ask anything I wanted about the food.

FOOD AND BEVERAGE

I was served bottled water, then a platter of bread, with two kinds of butter. For my drink, I chose Green Topaz, which was their signature mocktail, over cola. It had this gorgeous shade of green that reminded me of a melon and apple concoction.

On a cup, Aboush Corn Jelly was presented, like an appetizer for the appetizer.

First course was Charred Yellow Tail Mackerel. A delectable red cabbage tea accentuates the beautifully plated appetizer, with Vongole Apple and Cucumber. There's a chilled crunchy plant on top which was surprisingly tasty, and I forgot to ask what it was. Under all the trappings is the rich-tasting mackerel. I wouldn't describe it as charred.

Then came Irish Grass-fed Tenderloin, which was cooked medium rare, as per my instruction, with sweet potato (camote) strudel, Hokkaido Squash and Miso Hollandaise. Tenderloin was exquisite, with a dash of rock salt. The camote strudel could have been a bit more chewy though, but this is a personal preference.

Dessert was Morello Cherry Marshmallow, an Almond Milk Emulsion with Coulis (koo-lee, thick sauce made from pureed and strained fruit) and Coconut Granita. I love these gourmet marshmallows thus it's hard to find fault. I'd have preferred a lime granita for that twist but this was delicious nevertheless.

The experience didn't take long, but I appreciated the laidback surrounding. In fact, there were few people during lunch. Meanwhile, at the other side of the room, few folks were having their afternoon tea already.

Notice the bluish hue of the photos. This was due to the thick bluish glass panels of the restaurant (and probably the whole building to contain the harsh and offensive summer sun), imparting a zen interior space. 

It was a singular experience, eating at the world's 7-star hotel. If there was anything I took from this, it was that impressions create a powerful influence on people's minds. There was nothing intimidating with the lavishness of Al Muntaha. It was there for its guests to enjoy. Moreover, it was just another restaurant experience... where I had to dig into my pocket just a little bit deeper.


***

Please check out our previous post why booking a room with Agoda at the M Hotel Downtown by Millennium in Dubai's Business Bay was nothing short of a nightmare. 

Irish Grass-Fed Tenderloin with Sweet Potato Strudel

Charred Yellowtail Mackerel

Aboush Corn Jelly

Morello Cherry Marshmallow with Coulis and Coconut Granita. 

Green Topaz

BAA's restaurants mostly follow a dress code. For guys, its a collared, long sleeved shirt, with trousers and leather shoes. Sport shoes and walking shorts will be turned away.

Trying Sewai in Abu Dhabi

                                           I had Sewai          

                                               *****

                                      in this restaurant

                                               Near this street below!

While touring Abu Dhabi with a motley of other tourists from Romania, Kazakhstan, Germany, India, Singapore, China, India, and Switzerland, we were taken to Al Ibrahimi Restaurant on Muroor Road for lunch. It serves international cuisine on its buffet spread. I saw jalebi, that Indian sweets made internationally famous by Dev Patel's Oscar-nominated movie, "Lion". But there was something else that caught my attention.

An Indian lady from Hyderabad quipped, "Try that. You'll like it." I was grateful for the recommendation, but I didn't need convincing. She said it was called "Sewai". It looked like a noodle dish. It's a coconut-based dessert with milk in it, the nice lady explained. It looked inviting.

Sewai, it turns out, is made with vermicelli, cooked in milk and dry fruits; a quintessential festival dessert usually made on the occasion of the Eid. There's a bit of cardamom in the milk with a pinch of saffron; other varieties carry almonds, raisins or cashew nuts. This particular Sewai didn't have those, which was probably good for me so I could concentrate on its taste.

Sweet?

Sweet.