That Sinfully Sumptuous Humba of Siquijor (Visayas)

Dining options in the mystical island of Siquijor are quite limited for the backpacker. There are no fast foods and any mid-range restaurants to speak of. Even carinderias are very few and far from each other. You'd have your breakfast in your hotel or guesthouse then pick from the relatively expensive options of dining in resort restaurants. My meals here were unexpectedly upscale, ranging from not less than P300 to P600 per order. 

Maybe the witches have cast their spells against "eateries"? Err... not really. The "mambabarangs" (local witches), accordingly to my driver-guide have gone to the mountains and have grown old. Their siblings supposedly have refused to accept the "gifts" they're supposed to pass on because of the stigma that society puts on them. As a result, this tradition for which the island is infamously known for is gradually disappearing from modern day Siquijor. But I am digressing.

On the day of my departure from the island, I headed to the port early so I could buy my one-way ticket to Dumaguete (business class available). I saw a carinderia-cum-sari-sari store just in front of the Ocean Jet ticket booth. This is your typical Pinoy carinderia. I picked the Humba, sinfully languishing in mouth-watering oil. I am no cook. That is an understatement. But to my mind, "humba" is the Visayan variety of the Filipino adobo. It is a stewed pork dish that's "sweet, sour, salty" cooked with brown sugar, tausi (salted black beans) and banana blossoms.

My humba is very tasty, its meat tender, and you feel cholesterol impinging on your blood vessels, but I didn't care. One pice of humba costs PhP25 so I ordered 2, plus a cup of rice and a piece of banana. My cheapest meal (many times over) in Siquijor at PhP90 (< $2). 

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Tender and tasty humba.

Ocean Jet tickets bound for Dumaguete are bought in the small shop at the right in this town also called Siquijor, the capital of the island. The other port is located at the town of Larena. This corner carinderia is located in front of these ticket shops.

Siquijor is the country's 3rd smallest province. It boasts of white sand beaches and a very international population of tourists (backpackers) zipping around this slumbering island.

Breakfast Buffet at I-Residence Hotel Silom (Bangkok)

I love mornings at I-Residence Hotel Silom for so many reasons. Located along Narathivas Rachanakarin Road, the hotel stands just at the footsteps to the Chong Nonsi BTS station. It has a 24-hour convenience store nearby. A fruit vendor occasionally sells those sinfully sweet Thai lansones. 

In the morning, I would leisurely take my time before the 10 AM breakfast cut-off at the 10th floor. I'd stuff myself then head to the adjacent swimming pool. I'd usually sit near the balcony where there's view of the skyline, not to mention the chance for a lazy trainspotting. For those who love their morning meals, don't wait til the very last hour because they usually don't replenish the buffet stock after 9:30 AM.

I-Residence Hotel Silom has a sister branch in Sathorn, but I find this most convenient, with very personable front desk staff. This premium boutique hotel is well maintained. I think it was built sometime 2010.

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BTS Chong Nonsi just in front of I-Residence Silom.

Yuba Dining in Ukyo Ward, Kyoto (Japan)

In the last 10 years or so, Japan has incorporated the English language in their grade school curriculum. As a consequence of this, the concept of being "lost in translation" is gradually diminishing, particularly in big cities. Still navigating around Japan isn't as easy as you'd think. Vending machines found everywhere (fro train tickets, fast food, etc.) don't exactly have English translation on them. But it's all part of the fun.

I visited Tenryu-ji Temple (UNESCO World heritage site) in Susukinobaba-cho in the Ukyo Ward of West Kyoto. But my main destination was the Arashiyama Bamboo Forest. Before proceeding further, I looked for a restaurant for a fast lunch. I found this along the main road. It specializes in Yuba cuisine. Yuba is tofu skin (soy milk skin). It has rice in the soup; that heady, rich taste of the luxuriantly heavy broth. Yum

What's better: It costs a measly 980 yen, almost a quarter cheaper than many Yuba restaurants I know. Stayed at the second floor with a view of the surrounding hills around the area.

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Restaurant Wang's Chifa Gastronomy, Cuzco-Style (Peru)

A day after doing Machu Picchu (MP), I was leaving for a day out from Cuzco, this UNESCO heritage city, but I haven't had breakfast yet. It was 10 AM already so I knew I had to eat first. I asked my driver to take me somewhere good but cheap. Maybe "chifa", Chinese? So he did. "It's a local shop locals order their take out from," he spoke in Spanish. Looking at the door, I wasn't so sure. The place looked rundown. Inside, the place was being refurbished.

SOMETHING FAMILIAR

I was alone because it wasn't quite time for lunch yet, even for take outs. I decided I wanted something familiar so I ordered "chaufa con pollo" - and if you're familiar with the word "chowfan", this is it. Fried rice with chicken. To my surprise, a noodle soup was served first. I didn't order it. Since there was no one there but me, I knew it was being served to me. Then my order came. Yum! It felt like being in the Philippines although I was at the other side of the world. The meal cost me roughly 10 Peruvian soles, one of my cheapest meals in South America.

I  was ready to explore the Sacred Cities.

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Chaufa con Pollo

My complimentary noodle soup.

Locals as regular customers

Tavolata Restaurant: Italian Gastronomy in Mandaue City (Cebu)

Tavolata. Italian for "table". Lunch. Getting there was tricky because not a lot of people from central Cebu City would make their way to Mandaue City just for a leisurely lunch. The 4th taxi I flagged finally had an idea, but even his knowledge was sketchy at best. It was like driving from Makati to Las Pinas for a meal. It doesn’t help that Cebu’s traffic has mimicked Manila. 

I hopped in. Told him it’s where I’d meet friends, because having lunch alone in a strange place draws more questions. “Layo ng kainan nyo, sir,” he said, then started talking about a neighbour who got shot by tandem bikers. I refuse to get roped into that conversation. Not right now or I’d get upset. As if that wasn't enough, the Black-Eyed Peas were singing on the radio: "People killing, people dying; children hurt, and then they're cryin'." Pang-asar. Can we change stations please?

Tavolata is the Abaca group’s latest up-market restaurant, serving Italian cuisine. For two years, I’ve had Maya Restaurant (which serves Mexican) in my mind, but is yet to make it there. Same issue: the relative distance from Cebu City. Beqaa, that serves Mediterranean and middle eastern cuisine, is just next door. The restaurant didn’t even have a sign visible in daytime.

I loved the design, which makes use of available light filtering into every crevice of the joint; very energy efficient. In the evening, the interior lighting makes its magic.

At 11 AM, I was the only customer. So I was treated warmly by a chatty waitress. I was tentative at first. I thought of their sea bass putanesca (P900, like Anzani's) or a risotto. Gnocchi pomodoro with gorgonzola walnut (P495) sounded inviting too. Eventually, I got around to ordering Pappardelle pasta that has veal ragu, wild mushrooms and parmesan at P600. Soup for the day was creamy water cress with pancetta at P200. My mind drew blank. My friend Chiqui would have explained to me every single ingredient, the cono girl that she is (and violently refuse the reference). But I’m better with eating than pedantically knowing the nature of the ingredients enumerated in the menu. I am cool with that. 

Tavolata Restaurant is located near Gaisano Country Mall so you'll probably take the AS Fortuna Road to get there. Along the way, you'll pass through Oakridge Business Park in Banilad so you'll know you're close by. Address: 880 AS Fortuna corner Remedio in the Design Center of Cebu Complex in Mandaue City, Cebu. Telephone number (032) 505-6211, It opens at 11:30 AM, closes at 2:30 PM; reopens at 5:30 PM to 10 PM. Taxi from Fuente Osmena will probably take 40 minutes or so, but with traffic, good luck. 

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#tavolata #cebucity

Pappardelle pasta has veal ragu, wild mushrooms and parmesan.

Creamy water cress soup with pancetta.

Terminology:

Ragu - In Italian cooking, it refers to a sauce typically made with ground meat, onion, tomato puree and red wine, and served with pasta.

Great Pork Chop Meals at the Garden Cafe, Mansion Garden Hotel (Subic Bay, Zambales)

We try to avoid repeat dining in hotel restaurants so we can experience a variety of gastronomy in the places we visit. But I was hungry and was feeling lazy to roam just yet. I needed to fuel up before I can do that. After all, the hotel's surroundings has duty-free shops, walk-worthy streets, the comely and tree-filled Malawaan Park, a charming boardwalk and beach promenade, and a lighthouse nearby. I need energy before I could roam... so I opted to have my mid-afternoon lunch at the Garden Cafe.

Garden Cafe's grilled pork chop marinated in age-old "secret" sauce

The interiors sparkle with elegant design, mirrors, and adequate use of natural light. I liked that. There was no scrimping of space as well. Much of the place feels breezy and laidback, with very attentive waiters.

Meals at Mansion Garden Hotel's Garden Cafe don't exactly come cheap. Some of their least expensive entrees are their pasta dishes (Spaghetti at PhP140, Penne Pasta at PhP140, Garlic Prawn Fettuccine at PhP220). Their main dishes: their house specialty Pork Chop and Home Style Fried Chicken at PhP200 each; Oriental Beef Steak at PhP240; Sweet and Sour Fish Fillet at PhP260 and Pan Fried Salmon at PhP380. Canned drinks (Coke) costs PhP50 and Iced Tea (glass) costs PhP30. 

Are they any good? Yes, they are. Their pork chop is one of the best we've ever tasted, and that isn't saying lightly.

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Sweet and sour fish fillet

#mansiongardenhotel   #gardencafe  #porkchop   #foodporn