Getting Eaten Alive, Chanting Monks & Beng Mealea's Unreconstructed Splendor

Seventy five kilometers from Siem Reap lies the huge temple of Beng Mealea, a temple almost as big as the Angkor Wat, mixed in with the left-to-nature sensibilities of Ta Prom, i.e. overgrown trees taking over the temples, stone rubble piling up in wild abandon covering what could have been a dramatic set of lotus ponds flanking each side of the temple

But gone are the flowers and the waters have dried up. Mosses dramatically shroud the rectangular slabs of stones. You have to skip through them to get your way around. And I was pretty excited with all the possibilities.

TWO HOUR RIDE

This would be my first time here so I was pretty excited. Sana and I left at around 8:15 then took the national highway. The trip took close to 2 hours so by the time we got there, it was already 10:15AM. I got my $5 entrance ticket then was deposited right at the entrance.

DANGEROUS NAVIGATION

There's a causeway that leads to the front (the south gate). By the time I took the stairs, someone was already following me - a nice guy named Kak. He would also become my unofficial guide as I navigated the 3 concentric areas within the temples, now basically temple rocks strewn all around the grounds. It is not an easy feat walking through these uneven stones, at any time, one could easily fall off and hurt your self.

LOTUS POND

I was careful, and sweating profusely going through windows and following Kak's lead. He would point at the special carvings and I'd take snaps. There were ponds, moats within these concentric areas - "lotus ponds" which is how "Beng Mealea"is translated. There were also 4 "libraries", mostly closed. Some wooden walkways have been constructed around the area. According to Kak, these were part of the concessions during the filming of "Tomb Raider". Hollywood filming has its pleasant use after all.

There is a need for these unofficial guides - mostly locals - if you were to make your roaming around meaningful. In my case, I didn't pick Kak, but he was just tentatively showing me around, pointing to where I should enter (through a broken window) to get inside the first concentric area. Before I knew it, he was already hopping in front of me, and I didn't mind because it was hard to know which way was the right way, and making mistakes will not just cost you time but so much effort jumping on one stone slabs to the next. He would stop me every so often and ask me to turn around, "This is a perfect stop for a good photograph," he would say. Then he would point to slabs of stones with bas relief or exquisite carvings just lying down the floor which I would have otherwise missed. Kak had been a great help and by the time I finished the whole arduous visit (not for the frail or elderly), I realized that i would have indeed missed most of my photographic pursuits had Kak not been there. After the temple round, I headed into a kubo (a shed) to catch my breath while Kak joined me. I voluntarily and willingly handed $6 for Kak's help (which, I have to tell you, he never imposed).

The ride back from Beng Mealea was relaxing, but upon arrival in Siem Reap, there was a torrent of rain that soaked Sana (my tuktuk driver) and made muddy puddles around Siem Reap. It must have rained for a couple of hours while I recharged and took a nap inside my room.

OLDEST MONASTERY

Later that day, I roamed around the city and found Preah Prohm Rath Monastery, Siem Reap's biggest and oldest. I chanced upon chanting monks. I just stood in front of a huge open door, gazing at a half dozen monks kneeling down the floor, singing what would be dissonant sounds. I got goosebumps listening to them. These sights never fail to transport me to a dream land.

EATEN ALIVE

As I winded down my Siem Reap visit, I chanced upon a Fish Massage shop (they call it "Fish Spa"in Bangkok, 150 baht for 15 minutes) along Pub Street (Siem Reap's Eastwood City). And I had the most ticklish encounter as I dipped my feet in an aquarium of hungry garupa (grouper fish). The sensation is out of this world as you feel their toothless mouth sucking away your dead epidermis. Hordes of them coming on to you! At $2, I had my feet devoured by a pack of ravenous fish while I was sipping my Coke. At another shop, they had to put a sign that says, "These are no Piranhas!" Haha. But they might as well be! It is such an experience being eaten alive.

What more could you ask for in a day?

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Ta Promh: nature vs. man-made temples.

Papa Ching's Restaurant's Sinful Serving - Davao City

One of my favorite gastronomic hangout in Davao City is a new place called Papa Ching's Restaurant. I've been there half a dozen times and their offerings are almost faultless.

Though not exactly "inexpensive", they won't break your bank either. Their specialty is the country chicken - crisp and tasty! I ordered a half chicken at P175, which isn't bad considering how much you pay now for a 2 piece Jollibee Chicken. If you expect crunchy, Papa Ching's will have you crunching away - their chicharong bulaklak at a mere PhP105 is to die for. If crispy pata is too much for the budget, try their lechon kawali at PhP260 (see photo below). We've tried their crispy kangkong (deep fried and crisp water spinach) at PhP75, a cup of soup at P45-55, their huge serving of Chopsuey at PhP145. Sodas like coke cost PhP35 a piece.

Papa Ching's Restaurant is located at 25 Lacson Street, Barangay Obrero, Tulip Drive Extension, corner Walnut, Ecoland. In short, it's just across SM Davao City (to the right of the mall).

For inquiries: you may call them at +63-82-2241703 or email at chinggot204@yahoo.com.

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Update: The Ecoland branch of Papa Ching's Restaurant seems to have closed shop, which is unfortunate, BUT the good news is that they have another branch near Victoria Plaza's southern fringes. 

Lechon Kawali

Fried Chicken

Chopsuey

Spacious, cool, clean and great food...

Children Coin Divers of Sta. Cruz, Davao del Sur

Coin diving has become part of life in some ethnic groups called Badjaos in the Sulu archipelago in the Philippines. In fact, a movie was made by a National Artist regarding the plight of these subgroup of people (I think it starred the late Fernando Poe Jr.) Coin diving has also become a "profession", a means of earning a living among children and teen-agers in Indonesia (particularly in the Sunda Strait plying between Java and Sumatra).

In one blog article, Yovita Siswati, the writer narrates, and I quote: “Just before the passenger ferry leaves the port, several young people jump from the deck of the vessel down to the water below. They will ask the passengers on board the ferry to throw coins at them. Then shockingly enough, they will dive to retrieve those coins as they sink down the sea bed. They would race each other. Whoever gets the coins can keep them.” (source: http://quazen.com/shopping/coin-diver-dangerous-way-to-earn-a-living/)

The Badjaos in Sulu does the same: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Badjao_beggars.jpg

.

"Coins, please!"

YOUNG DIVERS AT PLAY

In a coastal community in Sta. Cruz, Davao del Sur, there is another version of this "practice". The good news is that the children involved here aren't swimming in deep waters unlike the aforementioned Badjao beggars who ride on outrigger boats or canoes just to get to a nearby passenger vessel. The children in Sta. Cruz wait just outside the string of restaurants and water rises up to their waist (for younger children) or knees (for older ones). I do not condone this activity. Children have the inherent right to play while young. But the harsh reality of life sometimes dictates otherwise.

Another comforting thought is that these children are seen mostly playing - frolicking - while waiting for the customers from the restaurants to finish their meals. You would hear them laughing and shouting, the way children find hilarity in anything that life presents to them. From my table, I saw several of them wave their arms, trying to get my attention, from a diving ledge just outside the restaurant porch.

I remembered a Yahoo piece written by Catalino Hisula in his article called "The Coin Divers":

"Coins were thrown to the water for her husband to dive. Each time the coins were long in coming, she asked the passengers to throw some more using the Badjao language the passengers do not understand but nevertheless knew she is asking for money. She never raised her hands with an open palm the way beggars do. She extends her hand as though she is reaching another hand for a handshake like she doesn't consider this trade begging. Her husband provides a diving show to the boat passengers by allowing a few seconds before he follows the sinking coin underwater." (source:http://www.associatedcontent.com/article/6090280/the_coin_diver.html)

Children Coin Divers are a familiar sight all through out Asia, but even more so here in the Philippines. There are several - on a strait between Cebu City and Mactan, and some "high tech little buggers" upon arrival in Surigao City (Notes from a Small Island, photos and blog article here: http://levantnotes.blogspot.com/2007/10/voyage-to-big-city-coin-divers_17.html)

THE PLEADING CHILD

Though most of the children were having fun, one child seemed to be desperate and/or dramatic. He would beg with pleading eyes at you and when others catch the coin, he feigns crying. Every single time. Later that day, after I paid my meal, I found the same child waiting in front of my restaurant. What's this world coming to? I wasn't pleased that he had to "beg" for money while I leave my restaurant full and close to bursting. The world isn't fair. I handed him my leftovers (ordered too much so I had my leftovers placed in a plastic bag). He still looked sad. He must have expected money.

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Striking a pose before the dive.

Desperate pleading facies all thoughout the "ordeal".

Diving as the coins sink.

Ernakulam Sojourn and Fun at Cochin International Airport

ERNAKULAM MORNING

I wasn't too sure if I wanted to check out Ernakulam, but I eventually found myself taking the jetty to the big city (15 minutes, 2.50 rupees). I just didn't want to regret not having explored just a bit of the mainland.

TRAFFIC TRAINING PARK

After walking along a district called Broadway, I headed back towards the jetty until I saw a children's park with a really long name. It was a Children's Traffic Training and Renewable Energy Park (5 rupees). The small park is designed like a little city dotted with named streets, and children's accoutrement (seesaws, slides). The kids could rent little cars they could pedal around the compound. Some of the kids would wave at me while others were bashful.

My favorite place would be the deserted amphitheater near the breakwater, as well as a lookout bridge where one could see the islands to the west.

I headed back to Fort Kochi and by the time I got back to Orion Homestay, my sweat was dripping freely while I confirmed my taxi ride to Cochin International Airport. My flight leaves at 5PM but I wanted to get there earlier than usual that way everything would be at leisurely pace. The remaining hours I had, I just took a long shower then waited for my taxi, which came early at 1PM. I said my goodbyes and shook hands with the mild mannered and shy owner. I was sincerely grateful for his kindness.

LONG HOT RIDE TO AIRPORT

For 750 rupees, my taxi ride turned out to be non-AC, so I pulled down the windows. For 30 minutes, we would slide through bridges and little towns. Somehow, 30 kilometers seem erroneous, as this ride took 1 hour and 15 minutes. We passed along places like Vytilla and Kalamassery, I thought this was a very long ride. The driver said that it was too hot so he said, "Just add little, we'll use the AC!" I was anxious of that but heck, I think I could afford this. If he asked too much, I would huff and puff. 750 rupees isn't a small amount for a taxi fare, after all.

Upon reaching Cochin International, I handed 200 rupees to him. I honestly thought he would complain, but he displayed a huge surprised grin and even offered to carry my baggage out. No need. I am always grateful reaching places safe and sound. That would suffice.

Cochin International Airport looked nice and everything worked in straightforward manner, from checking in down to the immigration checks. It did take a bit of time at the immigration counter because they were tutoring a new girl how ro input data into her computer screen, and I had to stand by and just observe them while the guys instructed her: "Write it there. No, go to that box." But it was alright with me. I had a lot of time - almost 3 hours to be exact. I was one of the first to get inside the pre-departure area.

INDIAN CRICKET FRENZY

Now you have to understand that the whole of India was in a frenzy because later that afternoon, the country would play for the championship match against Sri Lanka. (Who won?) And everyone was anxious. Airport people were glued to the TV screens scattered all over the airport. People were careless and this eventually seeped through work. When we were boarding, a police man was manning the door - which was odd. When my turn came, he was looking for something from my boarding pass - a stamp from some place. And I was sent back to the Air Asia staff for something I have no idea of. I was the last one on queue so an Air Asia guy accompanied me back to immigration check.

We made a dash, and it was nerve wracking. I didn't want to be left marooned in India. The seal turned out to be a "C.I.A. check" that some nincompoop forgot to stamp on my boarding pass. So I ended up being first person in my gate's pre-departure, and last one to board my plane! How uncool is that? No matter how strategic you make your trip out to be, something always happens that's beyond your control!


Children's Park in Etnakulam. This photo only courtesy of picasa's Javid.

The flight back to KL was bumpy, as it had been from Manila, and as it had been to Bangalore. It had to be one of the dreariest, most boring air travels I have been in in a while, I didn't know what to do with myself. It was a protracted 4 hours and 25 minutes, and I was worrying the buses that travel from LCCT to KL would have stopped by the time I get to KL. I didn't want to pay 100 ringgit instead of the measly 8 ringgit to Jalan Pudu.

At 1 AM, I was on my hotel bed. Images from India, in the last 3 years flashed before my mind. It had been a cornucopia of technicolor dreams set amidst the backdrop of Earth's most varied, most colorful corner. Malaysia felt like home, but it took forever to get here.

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Sri Lankan Tales - Lost in My Anuradhapuran Reverie

My car didn’t have AC. I must have downed my 3^rd bottle of water within an hour. My driver was trying hard to catch up with my itinerary’s list, and he was rather thorough. Devil with a purpose, I actually considered someone was probably waiting for him back home. But not on my time's money. It was really up to me to optimize my visit of the ancient city of Anuradhapura. I sometimes interchange it with Myanmar's ancient city called Amarapura which I visted last year. I considered getting an AC car, but hiring a car all for myself – instead of sharing the bulk with some other tourists – was not inexpensive. But I’d rather be the boss. I wanted the car and the driver at my beck and call.

My driver earlier suggested we take a short break at a cozy bread shop in Dambulla. I might as well recharge. My legs were starting to shake from the fast turnover of places. Who says traveling is all relaxation? My travels have constantly tested my stamina, but I am not complaining. I know one day when I am old and grey, I shall look back on all these with fondness.

My driver would stop in the middle of nowhere and point me to some scenic spot, and I’d be – “Uh, nice!” – Polite but a little perplexed with his choice of “nice”. Beauty after all is in the eye of the beholder. As we were winding down our Anuradhapura adventures, I have conjured wild elephants lazily crossing down our road. We were traipsing through the jungles of Sri Lanka, and it wasn’t a far fetched idea to encounter such wildlife. In my reverie, I didn’t notice that we were already plying through the lakeside; gliding through a placid lake. I somehow waited for my driver to stop the car. I was thinking, “Hey, this would be your cue to stop and show me this beautiful scenic spot!” He didn’t! A few minutes later, I asked him to.

The gentlest winds blew against my hair. There was hardly a soul in this wet paradise. It felt like a solemn moment to thank the heavens for such beauty.

Then a motorcycle drove by, reminding me I had places to go. What did Brown say? And miles to go before I sleep. So be it.

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Padada Blooms and its Mouth Watering Gastronomy

During our trip to the dusty, humid and sun-kissed municipality of Padada in Davao del Sur, we've come across several unique variety of flowers and, though we have no idea of their nomenclature (except the frangipanis aka calachuchi), we’re proud to share them here.

NOMENCLATURE HELP

We’d be grateful if anyone can help with some of these flowers' nomenclature.

GASTRONOMIC DELIGHT

As to the gastronomic riches, they are mostly fruits of the season: Durian (which is worth P45/kilo at its peak), mangoes (P45/kilo), bananas (saging), sineguelas, pineapple, watermelon (pakwan) and the occasional mangosteen and pomelo. Also featured here is the delectable Ginataan – and Davao’s version is a rich mix filled with the sweetest bananas (saba variety - aka plantain) and landang (a Visayan type of very small sago - the tapioca pearls). Ginataan is locally called Binignit – without doubt the best tasting ginataan we’ve ever tasted in the country! The road from Padada to Sulop is littered with make shift stalls by the road side. These tindahans (store) sell sumptuous and impossibly cheap bibingkas with coconut strips. How much are they? Hold your breath – P5 a piece! When people say things in Davao are cheap – they sure weren’t kidding!

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Frangipani (calachuchi)

Ginataan aka Binignit - a dessert cooked with gata - the Tagalog word for coconut milk. This "thin" coconut milk extract is added to cubed kamote (sweet potato), gabi (taro) and ube (purple yam), sliced ripe sabá (plantain) and langka (jack fruit), and tapioca pearls.

Bibingka is a type of pudding baked in a clay oven. Ingredients include plain flour, butter, coconut milk and sugar. Though popular in the Philippines, it is even more so as a traditional dessert in Goa (India) where it is called Bebinca or bibik. Before being served, butter or margarine is spread and sugar is sprinkled over the bibingka. It is typically served with grated coconut. It may also be topped with sliced salted eggs and cheese.In Davao del Sur, the pudding has strip of coconut milk embedded within. They are also bite-sized and is worth P5 a piece. Yummy!

Durian

Sineguelas (right side corner) is otherwise known as the Spanish Plum or Red Mombin and has several medicinal use: emetic (among the Cubans), laxative (among the Dominicans) and its fruit syrup is given to those suffering from angina among Haitians. We do wonder how these could be extracted as the variety we know is more pulpy/fleshy than juicy unless they are over riped. I kinda prefer my sineguelas crunchy!

Duhat is known as Lumboy in Visayas and Mindanao. It's better known as Black Plum or Java Plum, containing tannin, gallic acid, volatile oil and fat. In India, seeds are used for Diabetes. A 1% decoction is used as a mouthwash. Fleshy portion is used against diarrhea.

Lanzones

Idiots in Sri Lankan Air Asia and Arrival in Kuching, Borneo

Kuching skyline. This photo only courtesy of henrytanck.

Kuching, Sarawak -Colombo seemed weeks away, but it was really all in a day's rumination! From Negombo, my three-wheeler (their prefered "term" for the bajaj) driver Roshan was already waiting for me in front of Hotel Silver Sands by 5:45AM. The trip to the airport took 25 minutes, and the morning air smelled fresh. By 6:30AM, I was wading through the chaos in front of Bandaranaike International Airport! Huge crowds were waiting to get in.

As I was checking in for my Air Asia flight, the counter guy asked for my Malaysian Visa! He handed me back my passport and prodded, "Show me!" The idiot needs to be taken back to Travel 101 school! How can he man a counter when he doesn't know that a Filipino like me travels visa-free all over Asia? I told him so and it took a while to register. Then he turns to a colleague who confirms this. Idiots like him shouldn't be employed by Air Asia! Besides, it was so easy to verify this - just read through my passport, in the last 2 years, I have had soooooo many Malaysian stamps, my last 4 months should have a dozen of them!
Air Asia does employ idiots!

Flight back to KL was unremarkable, except that I was sandwiched by nice Sri Lankans. The guy works in Singapore (and has been all over the US, for IBM), while the Sri Lankan girl with a Canadian passport is just visiting Malaysia for 2 weeks and Sri Lanka for 4 weeks. Three and 1/2 hours later, I was back in LCCT in Kuala Lumpur!

I was dying for chicken so i tried McDonald's 2-piece chicken (@ 12.35 ringgit). Didn't like their chicken. There was a tangy taste to it. God, I wished I had KFC instead. After my meal, it was time to check in again for my onward flight to Kuching!
Kuching is the premiere city in the state of Sarawak, which sits in the island of Borneo southeast of KL. It is far! A good 1 hour and 45 minutes plane ride from KL!

Kuching International Airport looked new and sophisticated! The night lights reflected hotel ambiance more than an airport. I was expecting my airport pickup which was running 15 minutes late! I took a prepaid taxi to Saramo Hotel along Abell Road - at 26 ringgit - then learned that my pickup eventually came. Good thing, the taxi service refunded my money minus 3 ringgit for the service. The ride to the hotel took 20 minutes, and I was treated to hair-raising music by Aegis ("Halik"), Banyuhay, et. al. They actually listened to these craps, thinking I'd be delighted to listen to them from my weary travels. Am sorry but I was just too tired to be civil, so I shut up! They were just being hospitable.

Saramo Hotel is located right in the city center, just beside Air Asia office. At half past 8, the place looked dark and remote. After my hotel check in, I wandered around and looked for an internet cafe, which was nowhere near! I belatedly realized that Internet Service in this area is limited to the one at the Riverside Shop. I went to some malls and even tried to buy a Japanese DVD -19 ringgit a piece - but after several tries with 5 - yes, FIVE - of my credit cards, nothing worked! What a bummer! I didn't want to use my cash on DVD's, so I didn't buy them!

I went to the beautiful waterfront and saw the sights along the way, including the State Parliament, the Astana ("palace") right across the river; then walked along the dark Carpenter Street, which was their Chinatown. No internet cafes here. This was an experience though - walking at 9PM in eerily dark avenues. I call it night time tourism. ;->

Then I called it a day! One restful slumber in Kuching!

Kuching mosque. This photo only courtesy of travelpod's koppers.

Kuching Post Office. It felt surreal seeing this place all deserted at night. No passersby, except for a few stray cats! This photo only courtesy of www.ibanorum.netfirms.com.

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Kuala Terengganu Tales v.01 – On Causing Flight Delay and Arriving at Sultan Mahmud Airport

Kuala Terengganu had been beckoning me for a visit for the last 3 years. When the opportunity finally came, I booked a flight. To be honest about it, I didn’t come prepared, not the way I usually do with other places, but if you check out your Lonely Planet, it doesn’t really offer much; just a few pages easily readable in 15 minutes.

Terengganu or KT is Malaysia’s East Coast, the bailiwick of the country’s opposition, and is the capital of the oil producing state of Malaysia. My friend Irene is from Terengganu, but is now based in London. I met her while on a bus in Chiangmai and we’ve since kept in touch.

KT is 455 kilometers from KL, thus a day out from the capital is not possible. There are flights from air carriers like Air Asia, Malaysia Air (the first Boeing 747 to land at the Sultan Mahmud Airport was last October 11, 2008) and Firefly (to and from places like Singapore, Penang, Johor Bahru, Langkawi, but no Kuala Lumpur). Air travel takes just 50 minutes. Air Asia usually leaves KL at 7AM. Return trip to KL departs at 4PM but this is unfortunately hobbled by frequent changes of schedule. Mine was moved from 4PM to 10 PM. Air Asia is starting to crumble with frequent sked changes that inform you from either your mobile (my KT flight) or by email (my March trip to Penang).

When to visit? As I would realize later, December isn’t the best time to find ones self in KT. The rains during the monsoon season (November to February/March) don’t let up. And I would be there at its wettest!

Causing Delay

I woke up at 4:30 AM, then took a 15 ringgit taxi to KL Sentral to catch the Skybus to LCCT. I had a lot of time, so I was relaxed waiting for my boarding call. I was seated across Gate 9 where I was supposed to board. LCCT was buzzing with activity. The last 2 years have transformed this once sleepy no-frills airport into a busy one. It was 6:40 (departure at 7) and still, Gate 9 was shut! Ten minutes later, I heard my name being called. They were waiting for me. I froze and realized they transferred the boarding gate to Gate 1 – at the other side of the hall! I jumped and made a dash to Gate 1 which was already closed. I told the attendant that I heard my name. She scrambled and reached for her card key. As the door opened, I sprinted to the nearby Air Asia plane, breathless and anxious.

I climbed the stairs leading to the plane, only to realize once I was inside that it was empty! Oh for Pete’s sake. The day was starting out wrong! I went down. A tarmac personnel pointed me to the other plane. With backpack flopping behind me, I finally made it inside my plane. I half expected people throwing scornful glances, but they were unmindful of my entry. I took my pre-booked seat and relaxed. I’ve never been a cause of delay and it unnerved me. There is no such thing as Filipino-time, only undisciplined people.

The flight was half full and uneventful. The very few Caucasians on board were headed to Pulau Redang, one of Malaysia’s most beautiful beaches (their Boracay), just a boat away from Marang (a town 45 minutes from KT). I retrieved a photocopy of the Kuala Terengganu (KT) entry from my Lonely Planet (Asia on Shoestring). It was too thick and I didn’t want to carry that edition as I already had 2 other LP’s with me – Nepal and the thick Indian Lonely Planet. I re-read it and felt it was inadequate. Oh well. It was too late for regrets. I called for my pre-booked meal – Chicken Rice, which was braised chicken and steamed rice. It was my favorite from the available choices – their chicken foccacia was horrible and is only good as a tummy-filling snack.

Fifty minutes later, we landed on drizzling Terengganu. Sultan Mahmud Airport was medium-sized. The exteriors depicted local influences. The sophisticated gleam benefitted from the 200 million ringgit ($59 million or a staggering PhP3.2 billion) poured by the government to upgrade it into an international airport. Malaysia Airline has seasonal flights that will take passengers to the Mecca Holy land via Jeddah and Medina. Firefly has flights to Singapore and even Subang. 

Though the airport feels small for a 3 billion peso make-over, the interiors are tastefully decorated. It boasts of a hotel-style lobby with cascading water dripping from a series of dark panels; huge round lighting fixtures, mini- ponds by the entrance, and delicate wood carvings hanging down the ceiling.

I was unsure if I had to submit my baggage for inspection as I headed out. This must have been obvious because the bemoustached inspector called my attention. Damn! “Yes?” I said. “What’s your nationality,” he asked. I said, “Filipino!” this time gaining my self-assured voice that belied how knackered I was. I had 2 hours of sleep and had a month of constant mobility behind me. To my surprise, he waved his hand and I was on my way out. I decided to observe the movement outside. No hurry there.

The drizzle started to turn to rain. I ventured into the covered walkway that lead to the road in front, but there weren’t any buses. I went back and sat by the benches in front. A mixed film crew of Caucasians and Chinese guys scurried around, getting their rides out of Sultan Mahmud. The atmosphere was bereft of anxiety. People enjoy a languorous pace and smile around here, I should too, I thought. I went back inside and finally gave in to the prepaid taxi counter (Counter 1, the first booth by the entrance).

I told the lady I wanted to go to TK Travellers Inn located along Sultan Sulayman Street. She nodded, and I paid 25 ringgit. Most locations at the city center will cost you 25 ringgit ($7.40/PhP340). I marveled at how uncongested, how clean the place was. As the scenery slid past before me, I soaked at how rural Terengganu looked. There were very few vehicles plying the streets. There was a laidback demeanor, with few people walking outside. I don’t see a lot of taxis - nor trishaws that the LP or wikitravel mentioned. The airport is located 15 minutes from the town center. It felt longer.

There was a stack of cumulo-nimbus clouds hanging low. I was worried about the rains which have reverted back into seductive trickles.

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The elegant lobby of Sultan Mahmud Airport. This photo only courtesy of flickr's chee.hong & chleong.net.

Waiting hall just outside the airport entrance. Prepaid taxis queue for their turn just in front of this hall.

Covered hallway leading to the main road.

White sand beaches of Kuala Terengganu, the East Coast! This photo only courtesy of www.tripadvisor's fozzie58.

Up Next:

KT Tales v.01 - Causing Flight Delays - http://eye-in-the-blue-sky.blogspot.com/2010/01/kuala-terengganu-tales-v01-on-causing.html

KT Tales v.02 - Get Me Out of Terengganu! - http://eye-in-the-blue-sky.blogspot.com/2010/01/kuala-terengganu-tales-v02-get-me-out.html

KT Tales v.03 - Masjid Abidin and the Bus Journey to KL - http://eye-in-the-blue-sky.blogspot.com/2010/01/kuala-terengganu-tales-v03-masjid.html