Grimm's Affordable Steaks in Busy Harajuku (Tokyo, Japan)

Central Tokyo isn't a place for those on shoe-string budget. When you're in wards like Shinjuku, Shibuya, Roponggi, Ginza or Harajuku, it isn't easy finding restaurants with inexpensive food... particularly when you're craving for the occasional steak. The area teems with high end shops and trendy boutiques.

I was in Harajuku, visiting the H.I.S. Tourist Information Center when I noticed the pictures of food offered in an oddly named restaurant called Grimm, accessible through a narrow stairway leading to a basement. 

Grimm is what they call a Yoshoku, a Japanese-style western-influenced eatery. It is small, with only 7 tables. Each can sit 4 people. Due to the size of the restaurant, the place fills up easily. I had a 15-minute wait standing by the stairs before I was accommodated. The waiting staff was fast, but due to the volume of customers didn't have time for pleasantries. Food takes time so while you're waiting for your food, there's nothing much to do but fiddle with your phone. If you're dining solo, you'd have to share your table with others. Young locals mostly populate Grimm. 

I ordered pork steak which came 15 minutes later. Like most Yoshoku set meals, this had rice, soup and salad. The plating looked messy with pork cutlets, butter, lemon, beans and corn. Despite the presentation, my meal was tasty. And since it just costs 850 yen (tax included) right in the heart of busy Harajuku, this was a steal. If you're in a budget, look no further. 

Grimm's limited space provides a no-frills atmosphere of local color, like you're in the thick of Tokyo's underbelly. Consider that Harajuku is flanked by Shinjuku and Shibuya. If you're traveling solo, you feel this sumptuous disconnect inherent in Tokyo. Does that make sense?

Grimm is open daily from 5 PM onward.

There's a stairway leading to the basement where Grimm is.

The street scene outside Grimm in Harajuku.

Playing with Harry at the Hedgehog Cafe Harry (Harajuku, Tokyo)

Tokyo has its quirks and never fails to deliver an eclectic experience - like visiting a "cafe" for petting hedgehogs. It's not a proper cafe in the sense that you don't actually eat cake or drink tea, although tea is served for everyone. But nothing fancy. 

You're there for a first-hand encounter with hedgehogs, those spiny nocturnal mammals that curve into a ball when intimidated or asleep. They differ from the porcupines in the sense that the latter are more rodents; hedgehogs are closer to shrews.

General Information

Hedgehog's spines (quills) are hollow hairs made stiff with keratin, thus aren't barbed or poisonous. Unlike the quills of the porcupines, they don't easily detach from their bodies. But they can shed when they're under stress. When they roll into a ball, the quills on the back protect the tucked face, feet, and belly. They are also vocal animals so you get to hear them "grunt, snuffle or squeal". They are omnivorous, feeding on insects, snails, frogs, mushrooms, berries, roots and melons. Without predators and a controlled diet, they can live as long as 8 to 10 years in captivity. As trivia, a group of hedgehogs is called an "array".

I was supposed to go to Roponggi for my "Hedgehog Cafe Harry" visit. I had been reading about it, but was anxious about its location. Many reviewers had difficulty locating it. Moreover, Roponggi's subways and tunnels always tire and confuse me. When I visited the H.I.S. Tourist Information Center in Harajuku, I was told that they could book me a slot now. What's better, this was not in far, far Roponggi. This cafe is located right in the heart of Harajuku. I only had to cross the street, walk a block, then I was there. Between the two, Harajuku seems the better choice: bigger space, not too strict with the time allotted.

The cafe is accessible through a tight elevator. At the second floor, doors opened to a bright room with white walls, glass cages on tables, clean space, and framed photos of hedgehogs. I handed my appointment voucher then I was lead to a table with a couple of hedgehogs moving slowly. I expected them to be asleep as it was around 4 PM. 

The cafe staff then gently scooped one of the hedgehogs to show me how it's done. I was wary not because I was scared of them, but I was unsure how to hold them without stressing them. The more active one was handed over to me and it curved into a ball. I picked a worm with a pair of tweezers and offered it in front of its mouth. It opened up and gobbled the worm. That's how it perked up and started moving around my arms. It was a joy. I didn't even feel the spine. I enjoyed this play for about 10 minutes, then placed it back to its cage, feeding both of them before I proceeded taking photos. I even forgot there was juice, soda, tea or coffee from the vending machine and some cookies as well.

I looked around and found the whole room almost fully occupied; each tourist is assigned to his table. Everyone seemed to enjoy their 30 minutes, which was more than enough. Otherwise, the other option is 1 hour, which is excessive. Despite online criticism about patronage for these petting zoos, I didn't find anything wrong with it. 

Goats, Owls, Cats, and Snakes

It's almost silly to pay for the experience, but it was surreal. The controlled environment guides you how to handle them properly. I never thought much about hedgehogs before, but now I've learned to appreciate them. Other pet cafes in Tokyo offer goats (and you can walk your goat around the streets of Tokyo), owls, cats, and even snakes - no, thank you. 

The cafe has hedgehogs up for sale. Before I forget, their names were "Harry" - all of them, males and females. 

A tarpaulin is on display outside the elevator.