Showing posts with label the West Lakes. Show all posts
Showing posts with label the West Lakes. Show all posts

Sunday, February 24, 2008

Seeing Hanoi at a Leisurely Pace - Hearing Mass at St. Joseph's, Hanoi

Day 8 started with a mass at St. Joseph's Cathedral (aka The Great Cathedral of Hanoi). Finally I caught this Cathedral open with a mass, albeit officiated in Vietnamese. I got in and found a packed church. I walked near altar and just stood by the side. The altar was decked with wall-to-wall stained glass. Though I couldn't understand what was being said, it gave me a sense of calm to witness the unifying power of religion, and it was even more calming to know that I have something in common with these Vietnamese. I was standing for an hour, but felt good after the mass.



St. Joseph's Cathedral (Nha Tho Lon). this photo only courtesy of Ms. Mary Ann Sullivan of www.bluffton.edu. The cathedral opened its doors in 1886 at the start of the colonial rule. It presently holds mass twice a day.





This is the Eye in the Sky!


Pleasant Gastronomic Discovery - Hanoi Marina Restaurant, West Lakes, Hanoi



I've been trying to take the rounds of different restaurants and cafes all over Hanoi just to try to experience the various places around this amazing city. They range from the cheap to the touristy and expensive Dinh Lang Restaurant beside Hoan Kiem Lake. In such restaurant, you know that you are paying for its atmospehere and location, thus our dinner for two winded with a 450,000 dong, which comprised a crunchy delectable spring roll, braised chicken, and rice. Last night, I had dinner at Paradise Restaurant which had a cozy, albeit dark atmosphere. This was such a surprise as the place boasted of a duet of piano and violin playing tunes like "Moon River" and "Reality" (from that Sophie Marceau French movie back in the late 80s). The entrees were affordably priced, most of which cost 55,000 dong. When I asked if this doesn't include rice (it didn't say it did), the lady said, "no problem, i'll include rice for you"). Nice atmosphere, great list of choices, delicious food (I ordered Fried Chicken which seemed like it was cooked in Pinas, no kidding), and relaxing, familiar tunes played in piano and violin.

Just when I thought I've found a favorite, guess again.

Today, as I was roaming the West Lakes (Hanoi's biggest lake located northwest of the city), I saw this restaurant called Hanoi Marina restaurant. It's actually easy to locate. Near Than Nien Street, which separates the West Lakes (locals call it Ho Tay) and the smaller (and smelly Truch Bach Lake), it is located at 12 Tran Vu-Ba Dinh, the riverside street very near grade school. (As a sidebar, there is a reason why the southern end of Trcuc Bach Lake smells. While walking around the lake, I noticed several live fish gasping for air, right on the grounds beside the lake. Apparently, some Viets fish for them then leave them there to die. I wish they noticed how much their practice stinks the area.)

It offers a buffet meal for just 99,000 dong. Is it worth it? YOU BET!

The place opens at 11:30AM, and then again at 5:30PM. Upon entry, I was impressed with the general atmosphere. Stylish furnitures, teak furnishings, high ceilings, good lighting, and a dreamy view of the adjacent Lakes. There are 5 tables stretches of food of different varieties, regularly replenished (they describe themselves as a continental restaurant). This includes a dessert table of pastries and fruits; a separate table of Australian meat and herbs, fresh produce and spices which can be brought to the nearby kitchen, and cooked fresh before you. This includes ice cream too. Near the entrance is another counter where you can order pho, fish cakes, etc.

I was trying to control myself from overstuffing, stopping every so often. I must have returned 5x, trying to taste every item which were continuously replenished and changed with new recipes. My favorite was the friend spring rolls of course. They even included a "Kentucky Fried Chicken" on the table, which looked like a KFC chicken.

I initially thought that I would be paying 99,000 dong plus 10% VAT (as was written at the entrance) but as it turns out, 99,000 was all-in! Even the drinks were part of the buffet. It was a proverbial FEAST!

For all the dinners and lunches that I've had in Hanoi, THIS is all worth the price. It's barely $6 or PhP250!!!

The minor drawback about dining in this place is its location! The West Lake is relatively far from the central Hoan Kiem Lake. But one should never miss the West Lakes for its great temple (Tran Quoc Pagoda, free ADMISSION) and its dreamy surroundings (the huge huge West Lake). IF YOU"RE THERE, then by no means, try Hanoi Marina Restaurant for one of the most spectacular gastronomic experiences this side of paradise.

After the buffet, the nearby Highlands Cafe (Vietnam's Starbucks) - romantically set on a floating boat beside the lake - is a very nice place to kill time. I loved their winding stairs, open air tables directly facing the expanse of the West Lakes. By the way, their Cappuccino Cheesecake (35,000 dong) does NOT taste like a cheesecake at all. And their caramel creme brulee is a tad too sweet. Their fresh cococnut is fine, but it's meat is impossible to scoop off its husk. Just stick with their coffee, and maybe their in-house cheesecake (not the cappuccino).

Burpppp!




Regularly replenished with a variety of dishes.






The dessert table.




The view from outside Hanoi Marina Restaurant is just as pleasant. Misty, foggy Truc Bach Lake, separated from the rest of Ho Tay (West Lakes) by Thanh Nien Street.



This is the Eye in the Sky!




Saturday, February 2, 2008

Mists, Romance and Folklore in Hangzhou, China

About 2 hours (by bus) south of cosmopolitan Shanghai in China lies the serenely beautiful Hangzhou (pronounced “hang joe”). It is Shanghai's favorite getaway. This is Shanghai’s “Baguio City” where people save their hard-earned yuans (RMB) for weddings or anniversaries. Hangzhou has a small population of local residents and real estate is on the upscale market. Presently, this city has a population of roughly 2 million, and is regularly visited by tourists for its natural beauty and the West Lakes.


Hangzhou's most famous sight is the West Lake. Technically, there are about 10 scenic areas, all accessible by ferry. In the early morning, these places are fog-bound, rendering a dreamlike state when touring the place. You can visit the islands, their temples and pagodas, or listen to the hundred-and-one legends being floated around by the guides.


It won't take you more than 5 hours of a leisurely stroll. The lake is medium sized and there are two shortcuts (causeways) through it. You can also hire small non-motor powered boats (¥80/hour for a personal boat with a driver, or use the ferry services – 1RMB=PhP7) to take you around the lake and to the two islands.

The most popular temple/pagoda is the Baochu pagoda, which is the tower on a hill, located north of the lake. This hill is a great hike, with excellent views of the lake and city, several smaller temples of a variety of religions, and Huanglong Cave on the northern slope of the hill.




The tour bus will drop you off in an area where, from there, you take a leisurely hike to go up the temples. Having seen so many temples already, I didn't find any one particularly interesting, but take note of the several bas reliefs on your way up - structures carved on the stony hills and around a cave.


There are several other pagodas to visit; some equipped with escalators, others cable cars. The lakeside benches and gazebos make great spots to enjoy the mild breeze. A couple of wedding ceremonies were being held as I moved around.



A highlight of visiting Hangzhou is getting out to Longjin Village which is a tea-planting community. We were brought inside a tea house. Inside, there was a guide who showed us how tea is prepared straight from the plant, down to the tea box.



I am not so fond of teas. Tea-dunking, anyone? Way back when I lived with the Darbies (they were all blond-and-blue) in North London for a year, they would always invite me for afternoon teas. I didn’t like teas then coz I wasn't schooled with the subtle art of xanthine appreciation, until my visit in Hangzhou. All the tourists, were invited in a room with a long table. Then there was a short Tea 101 tutorial, including the sniffing, swigging to the drinking: “gently stir your cup, smell… then sip a bit, stir again, with the gentlest of shakes, etc. etc.”




I found myself buying several “kinds”. Before I boarded my bus, I looked around the hilly surroundings and saw a beautiful field of tea plants rolling all over the village. How quaint!




China seems to have a multitude of spectacular places to visit. The huge problem is the language barrier. It was never easy navigating around cosmopolitan Shanghai, but going out of the city is almost an impossible endeavor. Even if you know the chinese word, you should have the proper
"tone" or accent. Mandarin is tonal, and one word may have 8 different meanings depending on the tone used.

Travelling alone around China can be very difficult. You have to have your map on hand with you, or a written chinese character of your destination. If you have a Chinese friend, ring him and let him speak on the phone for you.




A tea house in Hangzhou.




One of the only 2 Catholic Churches in Shanghai.



This is the Eye in the Sky.