 |
| Paharganj |
There’s a single Delhi-bound train that leaves the western Indian city
of Jaisalmer every day. Train no. 14060 is called the Jaisalmer Delhi Express
(JDE). Notorious for running late, one should expect an arrival time 1 to 2 hours later than scheduled for a distance that covers 914 kilometers (576 miles); 35 stops; and
approximately 17 hours and 30 minutes of train travel. Since Jaisalmer was a
terminal station, I chose to experience the Sleeper Class which was relatively
cheaper than the AC seats (1AC, 2AC, 3AC). When in India, I am so frugal, I might
as well glue my cash to my skin. This is because, while the cost of living is dirt cheap, this isn't so among foreign tourists who are always expected to pay (so much) more for everything. A
30 rupee rickshaw fare becomes 200 rupee for someone like me, and if I haggled at every step, I'd end up wasting enough energy and time. So I scrimp - because
who knows if the air I breathe gets eventually charged after a nap.
MY BUNK
My train pulled out of the station at 5:30 PM and I found myself amid uniformed soldiers, with their boots in mid-air as I slithered carefully up my upper
bunk. I had to stoop not to hit my head on the ceiling. Beside me was a ceiling
fan teeming with virulent grime, as though it hasn't been cleaned since its first use. The three tiers of seats-and-couches opposite mine were filled, not
with people, but army sacks. I then remembered
that Jaisalmer is home to a military camp so soldiers were a common fixture in
these train rides. The window right down below was blowing late afternoon
winds, with sands wafting away. We were moving through desert
terrain. The open window only had grills from the outside. For the next 17
hours or so, I only had my jacket protecting me from the elements. This was my
choice; it wasn't very glamorous, but it’s gonna be an interesting anecdote
when I am old and grey. Elsewhere, others weren't so lucky: 14 to 16 people
were occupying a berth for 6. People stood by the aisle, and tea wallahs roamed the cars every couple of hours. I wasn't too amused with my seat up there as I
had to jump off my bed every time I needed something, and there were bodies
over bodies to hurdle. While most people find train travels
convenient, I’d much rather travel by bus.
We were traveling at an average speed of 50 kilometers per hour
which was slow, considering the distance we had to cover – 914 kilometers.
Most of the 35 train stops lasted not longer than 2 minutes except at Jodhpur
Station where a 40-minute wait for customers ensued. This was enough
time to wander around, but what could you see at 10:40 PM? And who will look after my baggage?
 |
| Train route from Jaisalmer to Delhi. |
 |
| A ceiling fan beside my upper bunk. |
I must have dozed off sometime after midnight and drifted into a
dreamless sleep. The noise of the tsai wallahs woke me up at 6:30 AM. I
shivered as the morning breeze blew across the cabin. We still had
a long way to go, despite having traveled 730 kilometers, stopping for a wink at
Rajgarh. I've succeeded to numb the pain of impatience by flipping through my
Lonely Planet, deciding where I should stay for the night in Delhi. I almost never book
for accommodations in India because I find it difficult planning around trains and bus schedules,
and as earlier mentioned, delays are a common thing. But this is where an Indian
visit is special compared to other places. You have to allow the spirit of the place to take over somehow.
FRENZY OF PAHARGANJ
My train arrived in Delhi at half past 12, the sun beaming on a cloudless sky. Delhi Junction was teeming with frenetic energy. I walked out
the station and crossed the street until I reached the chaotic row of bazaars
and little shops; ambulant vendors selling freshly baked cookies and fried egg
cakes; merchants peddling their colorful bags, pillowcases and shawls. The district is called Paharganj – “main bazaar” - which is unmistakably India, with its
ribald slices of local color, of organized chaos far from the grandiose veneer
of Mughal tombs and royal gardens. It’s easy to lose yourself in the frenzy of Paharganj. But I always prefer to stay here due to its proximity to the train
stations (long distance and city trains), as well as Connaught’s Place.
FINDING A HOTEL
It took me more than an hour to find Hotel Namaskar which was highly recommended by LP. Unfortunately for
me, they didn't have an available room. But the amorous owner recommended and
personally took me to another hotel just around the corner – Hotel Raj’s Cozy Inn. With relatively
new rooms equipped with modern, albeit clean bathrooms, I was quite happy with mine. I rested for an hour, took a refreshing shower, then navigated through the fascinating bowels of Paharganj. My
destination: the train station's International Tourist
Booking Center. I needed to purchase tickets for my onward trips: Mumbai, Hyderabad, etc.
I desperately needed a professional's help - away from the local crowd known to push their way between queues. Otherwise, I would never understand the Indian
train system of tatkals and reservations, etc. How can one sell tickets for seats that aren't available upon the time of purchase? This is India. Getting train tickets, finding your platforms, locating your train seats are not for the faint-hearted. They require a lot of patience – and understanding.
Some 4,000 rupees later, I wasn't left with enough time to roam. Quite
frankly, I was pooped! I needed to feed myself, but was tired of rotis,
dahls, parathas (unleavened flat bread) and chapatis (Indian flat breads). And most times, these are the only available food
non-Indians could find when you're traveling across the country. But this is Delhi where my gastronomic luck could
change. I saw Hotel Sheltron,
climbed to their rooftop restaurant – called Kitchen Café – then ordered Chicken Butter Masala (100 rupees), chicken fried rice (70 rupees) and a lime-flavored soda drink that one can almost exclusively find in India –
Limca Cola (15 rupees). I was the sole customer so I was treated like royalty in their dimly lit
rooftop cafe. Only then did I realize how hungry I was, I almost ignored the gorgeous bowls serving my food. Before midnight, I received a call from my Kashmiri friend Junaid. We spoke for 12 minutes. It struck me how concerned he
was of my well being, giving me tips as though I was in Scam City. I was
grateful, but I almost had to remind him I was of age to take
care of myself.
I didn't quite make 12 midnight. On the road, I usually study my next-day prospects
before bedtime. But it was time for a good night’s rest – right in the heart of
Delhi.
This is the Eye in the Sky!
 |
| Sleeper Class. This photo only courtesy of Bradwell. |
 |
| Grills on windows of Sleeper Class train seats. This photo only Ralph Velasco of Digital Photography. |
 |
| Delhi train station |
 |
| A messy mixed-media of sculptures at a roundabout leading towards Paharganj. |
 |
| Paharganj before the onslaught of activity. |
 |
| Students riding a rickshaw in Paharganj. |
 |
| Narrow alleys in Paharganj. It's easy to get lost in one of these narrow streets. |
 |
| The popular Hotel Namaskar. |
 |
| Hotel Raj's Cozy Inn |
 |
| My room at the 2nd floor. |
 |
| I got a room at Hotel Raj's Cozy Inn. This photo only courtesy of Indiamike.com. |
 |
| The Delhi Train Station is just a few blocks from Paharganj. |
 |
| International Tourists Booking Center for foreign visitors, located at the 2nd floor of the Delhi Train Station. |
 |
| Delicious cookies (biscuits). I always get myself a few pieces whenever I am in Delhi. |
 |
| Chicken Butter Masala (a paste comprising of a mixture of spices) with chicken fried rice |
 |
| Food at Hotel Sheltron - with Limca Cola, a lemon/lime-flavored carbonated soft drink mostly found in India and some parts of the U.S. Coca Cola company manufactures Limca in India. |
 |
| A colorful shop at Paharganj. |
 |
| Paharganj is a disrict in central Delhi somewhere between Old and New Delhi, near the New Delhi train station and Connaught's Place. |
Delhi days continued here -
http://eye-in-the-blue-sky.blogspot.com/2013/01/a-rickshaw-ride-in-delhi-one-lazy.html
Views from a High Rise Restaurant -
http://eye-in-the-blue-sky.blogspot.com/2013/01/a-day-in-delhis-paharganj.html
