Tropic of Capricorn Beach Resort (Wailoaloa, Nadi, Fiji)

Wailoaloa Beach has limited choice for accommodation in this area. But when transiting in Nadi, I'd rather be where the sea is. Nadi City wasn't a very pleasant option. Of course, I also considered a B and B in Martintar, but that didn't pan out. There were elements in the online reviews that turned me off. 

Meanwhile, Tropic of Capricorn had free airport pick up, two swimming pools, a decent wifi service and the South Pacific ocean. Like most accommodations in Fiji (outside luxury resorts), the standard of quality and facility isn't up to par with hotels elsewhere, particularly in Asia. With what you pay, you get less. This stay, for example, doesn't include breakfast for its price. This makes Fiji relatively more expensive for travelers. Fiji isn't for the backpackers on shoe-string budget.

Tropic of Capricorn has two buildings. At the back of the front desk/check-in counter, are a row of dorms. Then fronting the beach, you'll find a relatively newer 4-story building for standard, double and family rooms. I booked a double room with balcony and pool view. But what I got was an ocean view instead, at the 3rd floor of the building. I wasn't going to complain about that.

The staff are warm, friendly and go out of their way to introduce themselves, ask about you, and chat. They are a very curious lot. I got asked a lot about the teleseryes (mini-series) from my country. Even in my travels in Madagascar in Africa and in Vietnam, people are crazy over them. It wasn't a random question, I learned. Everywhere I went, Fijians are big fans of Pinoy mini-series.

PLUCKING BROWS

Another characteristic about Fijians is their laidback demeanor. The concept of "rush" is almost alien to them. I had a scheduled 8 AM pick-up for one of my island visits. Despite the 6:30 AM opening time for Tropic's Bamboo Kitchen (Tropic Cafe), the waitress manning the bar wouldn't budge - and it was already 7:20 AM. It was frustrating, particularly because you see her raising her brows whenever I'd ask. You wanted to pluck her thick brows to remind her of the time. Wouldn't have minded if I didn't have a schedule to follow. Yachts and ferries from Denarau depart on time so the idea of my ferry leaving without me was unpalatable. Besides, I paid dearly for it.

MONEY CHANGER

I decided to go to Smuggler's Cove Resort, a multi-story hotel resort located next door. At that time, their restaurant was already a bustle of activity while Tropic's was still yawning languidly. To be honest, I had pangs of regret why I never considered Smuggler's Cove which is more tourist-friendly. They have a shop that offers items tourists need (mosquito coils, postcards and stamps, ref magnets, etc.) and they change foreign money to Fijian dollar, among other things. They have an ATM machine, and a restaurant that's open early til late. Furthermore, the hotel resort hosts nightly kava ceremonies with dancing and singing.

Tropic of Capricorn was fine by me. But there were services that could be improved - like following their breakfast schedule or changing it altogether so people won't rely on it. Their wifi is limited to one gadget, and has intermittent signal and poor connectivity. I had to re-connect several times. I booked my day tour to Castaway Island from their travel desk. 

One time, I inadvertently forgot my camera on a table at the lobby, and remembered about it while I was at the bus station in Nadi, on my way to Suva. I had to take a taxi back to look for it. It was scary, but the staff at the front desk kept it for me. So you see, you have a measure of security at the Tropic. They are trustworthy. I appreciate that.

As earlier mentioned, the beach resort boasts of two swimming pools. One is located in front, just a few steps from Wasa wasa Road. Thus, not a lot of guests use it. The other is in the midst of a flower garden, beside the newer building, which has more modern fixtures: glass panels, comfy interiors, and a shelf full of books. 

While the foyer has a modern design, my room upstairs has but a fresh coat of paint. Otherwise, it has seen better days. The "newer" building doesn't seem so new after all. My double room was cramped, with a rickety AC, a small ref, and a clean toilet with bathroom fixtures last seen in the Philippines in the 70's. There's the cringe factor as I use it. All in all, my little Fijian corner was acceptable.

GETTING AROUND (TRANSPORTATION)

Wailoaloa Beach is located west of Nadi. It is about 3.8 kilometers from Nadi City. Easiest is to take a taxi (about F$10-15) which takes 10-15 minutes. Otherwise, a commuter bus passes by Wasa wasa Road (no designated bus stop) every 30 minutes until about 6 PM daily except Sundays which is a rest day for most of Fiji. 

The commuter bus will drive around the area to pick up possible passengers (there's very few). In fact, I was the only passenger on my bus ride to Nadi  The ride is cheap, at just F$1, but you need to have a prepaid card which can only be bought from the airport or at the bus terminal in Nadi. It's best to load F$10 or F$15 for your card. You swipe it on a card reader beside the driver. The amount is deducted every time you use it. The card is a smart card that can be used in other buses going to Lautoka, Suva and other places, but not for taxis.

Is it possible to walk from Wailoaloa to Nadi City? Yes it is. But I would advise against it. The way to the city has areas with nothing but empty parcels of land; the houses few and far between. The place is sparsely populated. Some parts have no sidewalks. It would be crazy to walk from the city back to Wailoaloa after 5 PM when it starts to get dark because many areas aren't lit at night. It would be a risky adventure.

Receiving room at the newer building has a cozy and modern design.

There's a wifi room for those with limited wifi signal, and it has AC.

My room is at the 3rd floor, left. The ground floor with red walls is the dining room.

Tropic of Capricorn facade along Wasawasa Road. 

This is the first swimming pool, located infront of the check-in counter.

Front desk, check-in counter and Travel tropic, the hotel's travel desk, where you can book day excursions.

I forgot my camera on this table.

This is a good tutorial. Note that the letter "d" is pronounced "nd". thus Nadi is pronounced as "Nandi". 

Day trips from their travel desk. I booked my Castaway Island visit here.

To the newer building and the beach.

My room at the 3rd floor.

Bamboo Kitchen or Tropic Cafe. Supposedly open at 6 or 6:30 AM but the schedule is actually employee-dependent. The restaurant at the Smuggler's Cove next door is more reliable, if you're in a rush.

Restaurant tables

Wailoaloa Beach doesn't have black sands, but isn't white either. Despite its mediocre sand, this has a great sunset.

View from the 3rd floor side-veranda.

Bought a few stuff from the convenience store (mini-grocers) beside Grace Road Kitchen some 3 blocks from Wasawasa Road (below).

#tropicofcapricorn   #accommodation   #wailoaloabeach   #fiji   #nadi

Sitara Mosque & A Very Curious Imam in Dhaka Tales

I was fidgeting while partaking lunch at Hotel Al Razique Restaurant until I realized that this particular meal was, in itself, a unique experience. The place didn’t look all that different from a Chinese restaurant, until I noticed that everyone around me were males. To my left, at the corner of the room is a cloister – a separate, more intimate stall with partitions. “That’s where women eat,” Mafuz my guide told me. Women were conveniently segregated from men. The mores and traditions of Islamic Bangladesh are too far removed from my cosmopolitan Manila, to think that some idiots from the rest of “civilized West” still envision the Philippines as an island life where people still live on trees. For one, our maids spell better than the superior beings who hire them! Mafuz nudged me out of my reverie. Right, next stop is Star Mosque.

MONEY CHANGING and ZERO POINT

I paid 380 taka for our meal, comprising of lentil soap, mutton, chicken, and some vegetable dish I couldn’t remember the name of. I asked that I be taken to a money changing shop first. I was taken to a heavily congested area right across the National Mosque (Baitul Mukarram). They were coaxing me to exchange more than what I required, but until the dollars in my wallet becomes theirs, I am the boss. We hailed a rickshaw and after a few haggling, we got our ride. Mafuz conveniently saved me from a lot of wasted effort and time. We ventured into the smoke-filled streets that characterize ugly urbanization, passing through Dhaka’s Zero Point, a special landmark from which map distances are calculated. Unfortunately, this landmark was littered with garish posters! I saw a Post Office servicing mails in the Motijheel area.

SITARA MOSQUE

I jumped off my rickshaw the minute we got to Sitara Mosque (Star Mosque). The neighborhood was familiar - Armanitola. In fact, this was the same street as the Armenian Church, just 350 meters from where we were. The mosque is a petite unimposing building that didn’t look particularly intimidating unlike Baitul Mukarram. There’s a sprawling yard with square patches of grass-covered ground and a dry, star-shaped fountain made of marble, and a stack of blue tiles delineating the pond’s water-level. I gazed at the main atrium and was entranced by the beautiful domes – five of them - rising proudly above its roof. In Islamic architecture, domes are placed directly above prayer halls.

GOING IN

I was reminded to take my shoes off, leaving them outside the gate. I had doubts about it. This was a chaotic street, anyone could easily pick them and run. It wasn’t that I didn’t trust the people. It was me! I’m just not comfortable walking barely – and years of visiting temples and mosques haven’t acclimate my feet. But since I didn’t have any choice on the matter, I took them off.

MOUNT FUJI

The mosque itself has an inlaid star pattern; the walls are a mosaic of broken pieces of china in arabesque design (an elaborate application of geometrically repeating patterns), set over white tiles. Flower and star patterns are also in abundance, as well as a limited arabic calligraphy which is otherwise common in other mosques. It was built in the early 18th century, employing the usual mughal architecture, but it has been extensively renovated some 50 years ago, with finances coming from a Japanese. This resulted into portraits of Mount Fuji on a set of tile design. Where is this? It’s actually easy to find these, if you’re observant.

From the front yard, you directly face the mosque. The entrance is an open lobby where the faithful can already bow and pray. The wall that divides the lobby and the prayer hall inside has 5 arched doorways. This wall is littered with tiles of Mount Fuji (with a lake and a tree at its foreground), probably numbering 18, if my estimates are correct. I’m aware that images and photographs are not allowed in mosques, thus calligraphy and geometric patterns decorate mosques. This would make those Fuji images special. It’s obviously a unique exception to the rule on Mosque architecture and Islamic art, isn’t it? The dried-up would-be fountain outside is part of the “garden” design of mosques – for ablutions (purification rituals).

MY WELCOME PARTY

I timidly made my way inside, unsure if I was going to be shooed away like I usually am in mosques elsewhere. To my surprise, an exceedingly curious imam (prayer leader), with a beehive of goatee hanging below his chin, came up to me and started asking me like I was a job applicant: was I a student, was I married, which country do I come from, what is my educational attainment (they always ask about education and work), do I like Bangladesh. After having passed his amused interrogation, he rolled the carpet for me – so to speak. I was invited inside. Whenever I’d stop to stare at the mihrab (the prayer niche that indicates the direction to Mecca), he would wave his hand to suggest I was free to take as much photos as my heart desired. I was floored by such hospitality. The imam would stand at the other end of the hall, then point to a corner of the small prayer hall. I’d look “enlightened” and terribly interested, just out of gratitude for this privilege.

NON-MUSLIM MOSQUE VISITORS

Under most interpretation of Islamic laws, non-Muslims may be allowed into mosques as long as they don’t sleep or eat inside. But Islamic Asia, unfortunately follows the dissenting opinion presented by the Maliki School of Islamic Jurisprudence that prohibits visitors like me. In Bangladesh, however, the attitude towards tourists are very welcoming. Even women are allowed inside – and that is a liberal move! Visiting a country with not a lot of intrusive tourists has its advantages, after all.

It didn’t take me 30 minutes to soak in on the atmosphere of this holy landmark. I made my way out and said my “thank-you” to the gentle imam. Tourists always find it heartening when local strangers extend a piece of kindness. It also makes this world a wee bit brighter.

This is the Eye in the Sky.

Mahfuz checks up on me.

A very curious imam.

Mount Fuji, a tree and a lake.

The main prayer hall.

The mihrab or prayer niche

Gorgeous entrance arch leading to the prayer hall.

In arabesque design full of flowers and stars.

Praying at the lobby, just before going inside the main prayer hall. Christians genuflect; Muslims bow and touch the floor.

Next up – Shaheed Minar

Overview on Bangladesh: http://eye-in-the-blue-sky.blogspot.com/2010/09/bangladesh-fortuitous-jolt-of-surprise.html

Arriving at the Hazrat Shahjalal International Airport and Hotel Pacific:http://eye-in-the-blue-sky.blogspot.com/2010/09/dhaka-bound-anxious-plus-hazrat.html

Rowing down Buriganga River and my Sadarghat visit - http://eye-in-the-blue-sky.blogspot.com/2010/09/buriganga-river-ride-and-trip-to.html

Ahsan Manzil - Dhaka's Pink Palace - http://eye-in-the-blue-sky.blogspot.com/2010/09/ahsan-manzil-pink-palaces-rich-history.html

Armenian Church of the Holy Resurrection – http://eye-in-the-blue-sky.blogspot.com/2010/09/armenian-church-of-holy-resurrection.html

Point Zero in Old Dhaka from which maps are calculated. It's also a busy rotund where vehicles take their turn.

Location of Point Zero