The Cave of Sittanavasal Hill - Monks' Retreat at the Fringes of Pudokottai, Tamil Nadu (India)

Somewhere in nowhereland called Trichy in South India, I decided to head deeper into the desolate plains 38 kilometers by bus to Pudokottai. Pushing the so-called envelope, I hopped into another bus and traveled 20 kilometers further. I was forewarned by my readings never to head into Sittanavassal alone. There were anecdotes of muggings on solitary visitors and these fleetingly gave me goosebumps. However, goosebumps never stopped me before. That late afternoon, I found one of the last buses bound for Sittanavasal for the day, albeit my last chance to discover for myself a road less taken in that area.

I wasn't going to town. But to an outlying cave turned into a temple.

It was late. The sun had graduallly slid in the horizon; its existing light providing a hypnagogic overlay in the surroundings. I asked the driver's assistant to inform me when I am in the area already. Then I hopped out of the bus and found myself morbidly alone on a steppe with nothing but shrubs, rice paddies, a pond littered with lotuses, and from a distance a hill with a cave - the Cave of Sittanavasal Hill.

I walked up the hill to find a cave where meditating monks take shelter. There was no elaborate temple to speak of. The famous Sittanavasal Jain Temple is located elsewhere at the town proper further north. This was just an empty cave on a considerable elevation, with a breath-taking view of the green valley below.

En route to the cliff, I heard voices. I realized I was not alone. I had mixed feeling about this, anxious even. They could be the heel and anti-heroes I was duly warned about - and I could be in trouble! Or they could be hospitable locals. I crossed my fingers. And guess what: six Tamil students were on their way to visit the cave temple. I gainfully acquired 6 new friends and protectors who acted as though I was a guest in their own abode. In principle, I was. More than anything, I was thanking the heavens to be in their kind company in the midst of the distant heath.

"Sittanavasal", the conspicuously tongue-twisting term, is a word play of a Tamil word that meant "abode of great saints". Sittanavasal Cave - aka "Arivar Kovil" - has a long and rich history behind it. Try 7th century, when it had been ascribed as a Jain Temple; a marbly rock west of the stony mound, excavated in a bluff. The monks (with nothing but their robes) would sit, cogitate and sleep on the slippery floor of the cave - to meditate, pray for enlightenment and attain nirvana. Unfortunately for me, the cave was deserted at the time of visit. I couldn't get near the interiors said to be inundated with fresco-secco art. There were protective bars probably meant to discourage prospective vandals.

The hike up the hill wasn't a walk in the park. In no time, I was drenched in my own perspiration. In contrast, my new found friends didn't even break into a sweat. How embarrassing!

There were minor concavities and colorful altars of elephants, horses and goats nearby. The sprawl of the fields yielded not a single dwelling. The place felt like a "wild south" if there ever was one in India. By the time we got back to the deserted highway to wait for our bus, the last few gasps of sunlight have but dissipated into the darkness.

I rode back in introspective silence towards Pudokottai to catch my night bus back to Trichy. There was something immensely satisfying with what just transpired. As an added bonus, the guys - who were still practically strangers - decided to pay for my bus fare. For all intents and purposes, I am far from being a pauper, but financial capacity hardly plays into the hospitality of people or their generous culture. How's that for an all-inclusive adventure? How lucky could I get?

This is the Eye in the Sky!

View from the rocky cliff - the western plain of Sittanavasal Hill.

Well polished stone beds or Ezhadippattam (aka Jaina beds) used by Jaina ascetics. There are Tamil Brahmi inscriptions (as well as vandalisms) written on these rock beds. On one of these beds, sallekhana - "fasting unto death" - has been performed. Ouch.

My protectors, guide and friends from Pudokottai.

The climb up this slippery, uneven hill to get to the westward cave.

Finding A Temple Cave on a Remote Hill in Pudokottai

The hills are alive! A cave temple sits at the top of this beautiful hill in the middle of nowhere, 18 kilometers from Pudokottai! This photo only courtesy of flickr's clodreno.


Pudokottai, India - Some excellent days start out bad - like this little tale of an adventure. After enduring some moments of introspection, I finally decided to take a day out at 2:50PM! Drizzle had been unrelenting. I wanted a place that's a bit far - but close enough to hop on a bus and get back to my hotel before the stroke of midnight.

Puddokottai was the most logical choice. Some 53 kilometers from Trichy, Pudokottai boasts of an ancient monastery of the Jain - a movement of people that I've seen in Rajasthan (Ajaya), but influenced by 9th century Pandyan Period. Problem is, my 2-year old Lonely Planet doesn't have anything on Pudokottai or the Sittanavasal temple complex. No "how to get there", "transportation tips", etc. This is tricky, to say the least, since I really didn't have the luxury of time.
By 4:30, I learned that there was a way to get there without paying the exorbitant 300 and 500 rupees that the autorickshaws were charging me! Not on your life, Jose! I took the bus - Bus no. 25, to be exact! I sat beside a nice chap, Syed, who would later offer to pay for my bus fare of 5 rupees ( he wouldn't take a no ). After exchanging email addresses with him, I hopped off the bus and stood after what would be solitary wilderness. Then I realized a group of 6 guys (Tamil Indians) alighted from another bus. They were on their way to the hill. I realized, if they were freaky elements, I am already toast! As it was 5:30 PM already, no one was there - even the day guard just left! (he actually said goodbye with a big smile.)
After a relatively painless breaking of the ice (one offered me his umbrella as it was drizzling), we walked 2 kilometer towards the foot of the hill and we became fast friends. And I suddenly had 6 bodyguards. Hahaha.
It was a fantastic place. A slippery stone-carved stair lead us above a breathless (literally and otherwise) view of the sprawling vegetation down below, but above, perched near the slope was a gated cave, with polished stones that became beds of hundreds and throusands of monks of a bygone era. There were frescoes and paintings on the wall as well. Lonely Planet - my bible will catch up on this one - if they haven't yet!
It was dark and raining while we waited for our bus beside the pitch-black highway. They were teacher trainees from the local university undergoing their own version of "internship'. As we got up on the bus, I was offered a seat - and they paid - once again! - for my 5 rupee bus fare! Am I lucky or am I lucky?

THE INTIMATE
He pushed his whole weight against me, as I struggled to accommodate him between his grunts. His breathing was constant, drawing guttaral sound as he further struggled effortlessly to crush me. I was careful not to break his mantra of utter passivity, moving relentlessly through mere reflex. I was crushed. My toes curled. I was helpless to control my own breath. But a sudden shock broke his concentration. Like a bump on the road!
- Me on a bus on Pudokottai highway, with a bemoustached Indian guy in his 50's sleeping like a log!

This is the Eye in the Sky.