Champasak Tales - The Ruins of Tomo Temple and the Buddhas of Wat Muang (Travel Log 112511)

After arriving in sleepy Champasak, I readily asked my guest house’s owner if he could get me a motorcycle ride to Tomo Temple and Wat Phu. I had the whole afternoon to check out the temples and I was looking forward to discovering these Khmer temples. While calling his contact, I went to Champa Restaurant beside my guest house for my lunch. I was the only customer; one of the few who gets to enjoy these seemingly solitary site. Beautifully placed beside the Mekong, I had a wind swept table as I greedily gobbled on my fried pork with garlic and pepper on rice (20,000 kip/$2.50) and a bottle of Coke (5,000 kip/$0.63). It had been a long and strenuous 2 kilometer walk from the wharf and I was in dire need of sustenance.

With my meal done, I hastily checked out the Tourist Information Center (beside Champa Restaurant) where an accommodating guy welcomed me with a huge smile. Unfortunately, the center couldn’t offer me any tangible material. They were out of maps or leaflets about the town or Wat Phu. At least, Savannakhet had a scribbled down map as give aways. Champasak had none but a smile, though the guy offered: “I could book your onward transportation from here… or a bike tour to the temples.” I thanked him for his hospitality and said goodbye.

Tourist Information Center


Champa Restaurant (above and below)











Fried pork with garlic and pepper on rice: sinfully delicious (above and below)

Back at my guest house, my motorcycle ride was waiting for me. The driver was an amorous guy in his 60’s named Somphone. He was perky and would intermittently regale me with his French as though I’d find him a sophisticate for his special skill. Heavens bless him, but I didn’t care. I was told that the motorcycle tour would cost me 90,000 kip ($11.30) for a ride that starts and ends here and includes Tomo Temple first, then Wat Phu Champasak, and a few temple stops along the way. I’d have to pay for my boat ride as well because Tomo is located at the eastern side of the Mekong – 40,000 kip ($5) return.

Before heading back to the wharf at Ban Phapien, we passed by a petrol (gasoline) shop. I was surprised when Somphone asked 60,000 kip ($7.50) for the gas. Tour rates anywhere in the world are always inclusive of gasoline. This tour accumulates to a total of 190,000 kip – or $23.85. I could huff, puff and balk but I didn’t feel like kicking ass for something I could comfortably afford. What’s a few kip really? As long as he stops and goes when I tell him to, I am cool with my ride.

We crossed the Mekong from Ban Phapien to Ban Muang, then we went east until we reached the highway (Route 13, Lak 30), then we went south. Somphone stopped at the Tomo Bridge, which was fine as I wanted to see the Tomo River, a tributary of the Mekong. We kept riding until we passed by Uodomphan, Phaosamphan, then the town of Pathounphone (Somphone wrote it down as “Pathoumphone”). To my left, across the road, was the town hall which, like other Lao Government Hall, looked deserted.

Upon reaching Lak 40, we turned right (west) and traversed a dry, dusty road – the condition was reminiscent of the road to Palawan’s Underground River. It’s potholes galore, we had to snake through ridges and craters. When it rains, this road becomes an impossibility. Tomo Temple is about an hour away from Champasak, and is said to be 45 minutes away from Pakse. The dirt road stretches for 4 kilometers from the highway.

Champasak Town's Ban Phapien road - Start of the journey to Tomo Temple (Uo Moung).


Petrol station in Ban Phapien


Another ride crossing the Mekong from Ban Phapien (west) to Ban Muang (east)


A bigger catamaran transports vehicles.





Women bathing and washing beside the Mekong


Tomo Bridge


Tomo River


Pathoumphone Town Hall


Bad roads to the Tomo jungle


More bad roads


Shaded forest


Marshland

Tomo Temple – or Uo Moung – is thought to have been built during the reign of Khmer King Yasovarman I (an Angkorian King, 889 to 910 AD) sometime during the late 9^th century. It’s believed to be a religious complex with regards to its orientation towards the holy mountain of Phu Pasak and Wat Phu. It rises in the heart of a shaded forest, beside a Mekong tributary (Tomo River?) and an algae-infested marshland. The trails are almost ambiguous. I was the only one there. My driver would walk a few meters behind me, making sure I didn’t get lost. But the walk into the forest was dim and cool, with towering canopies of diptocarp trees.

The ruins were mostly unpreserved and if this keeps on, there would be no Tomo Temple to visit in the next 10 years or so. I found the border markers and ornate entrance ways (gopura). A sandstone lintel stands carelessly beside some block of concrete. Crumbled walls have fallen into disrepair, and there was really nothing much to see but the nebulous concept of a receded civilization. No one seemed to care anymore. In fact, the entrance office was closed and I had no one to pay my supposed $1 (8,000 kip) fee. As mentioned earlier, I was Tomo’s lone visitor this afternoon.

The ride back to Ban Muang was leisurely. My driver tried to ask some questions, and though I welcomed the chat, I didn’t like his attention straying away from the road ahead. I told him I wanted to check out the temple at the eastern wharf – Wat Ban Muang. I’ve been acquainted with it during my arrival from Pakse, but I didn’t have time to roam. There was a congregation here earlier in the day, but they’ve all but left.

Tomo Temple or Uo Moung





Lintels


Archways





Faces have been carved at the gopura which is unusual since most lingas don't have faces at all.


Distance markers


A white Sukhothai-style Buddha is in place at a building near the Tomo Temple ruins.


Wat Muang at the eastern side of the Mekong.(above and below).

It was time to head back west. We crossed the Mekong. I paid my 20,000 kip ($2.50) boat ride. My driver didn't. Were locals free? Probably. I was with a fully outfitted French bicycle rider who asked how much this ride would cost him. As English isn't their strong point, the boatman signaled “two” with his fingers. It wasn't. By the time we had to pay, the biker was flabbergasted when he was asked more than his expected 2,000 kip. He was being taken for a ride, he thought. But common sense would have you consider the amount - $0.25 or P10 for a 10-15 minute boat ride across the Mekong?

My afternoon tour wasn't done. It was time to check out the more important part of the itinerary – Wat Phu! I have saved the best for last! It’s a mere 12 kilometer ride from Ban Phapien (and 10 kilometers from Watthong). And I couldn't wait to go!

Go south, Somphone!

This is the Eye in the Sky!

Wharf at Ban Muang


Somphone, my French-speaking driver. The French biker was still on the boat.


The way to Tomo Temple.

Pakse to Champasak Town - Lost in a Slumbering Paradise (Travel Log 112411)

The idea of Champasak intimidates me for a reason. My mind conjures a place far from mundane civilization: a place dotted by a lazy hum of life; by islands bathed by the Mekong in areas where ATM machines are a figment of scientific fiction; and internet connections are an anomaly or mere non existent. And I am going there today despite a hazy concept of its geography. Lonely Planet alludes to southern Laos as “chill places”, where there’s nothing else to do but hang down your hat, placidly swing on a cot, and watch cows and people go by. The further south you go, the more relaxed and chilled you get; in fact, one is prone to turn to an icicle, or so they say.

Most backpackers rush through Champasak Town on their way to the Angkorian temple of Wat Phu Champasak for a day visit. I had a different plan. I saw maps insinuating to the area as Ancient City. Agoda lists hotels and guesthouses as located at the “Ancient City” and this excites me no end. The contingency of walking on what was once a royal land elicits delectable electricity running down my spine. And I can’t just leave town not experiencing what it’s like sleeping on royal lands, can I?

Champasak is a town in the Champasak province, located south of Pakse. Roughly 3 decades ago, it was a seat of royalty. It is a lazy one-street town, the main road runs parallel to the Mekong then turns inland where a magnificent cascade of mountains serenely stand, gazing down on farm lands. If you go further south, 10 kilometers from Champasak’s Ban Wat Thong (Wat Thong village), you will find the ancient Khmer religious complex of Wat Phu, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. What I didn’t realize after several reads from my LP and wikitravel was that I would have to cross the river, if I come from Pakse, to get to Champasak or Wat Phu, for that matter. This caused a lot of confusion on my part.

My morning in Pakse started with a leisurely walk at the riverside. It wasn’t aimless wandering, as I was looking for a restaurant where I could have my breakfast. Imoun Homestay offers free breakfast, but I couldn’t find Por and I really didn’t want to bother. But every riverside joint was closed. I realized I needed to find one fast, lest I leave for Champasak on empty stomach – a big “no-no”. Never go on trips to strange lands without meals. At 7:15AM, I was back at Imoun disappointed. I gathered my stuff and brought them to the lobby. And like magical circumstance, Por was there. She hastily prepared my breakfast while I was getting ready for my 8 AM bus. Yes, the bus was fetching me from Imoun. I didn’t need to go to the terminal. Isn’t that cool?

By 7:45 AM, the bus unexpectedly arrived. Who says everything in Laos is late? I wasn’t even half done with my food, but people were gawking down their bus seats, looking at me – Caucasians and a couple of Japanese. I was supposed to knock on Teske’s room to say my goodbyes, but I didn’t have time so I asked Por to tell Teske I’ve gone. A few days later, I got an email from Teske. Meanwhile, my bus was headed south. No one talked to me; no one said where exactly they were going to drop me. The bus was marked “Pakse to Don Det”. The bus had a comfortable AC and I was seated comfortably beside a window and no one else.

Just before leaving Pakse, the driver’s assistant asked if anyone needed to withdraw from an ATM machine. An elderly German guy raised his hand and a Russian lady followed. Remember, there are no ATM machines where we were supposed to go.

Restaurants along the Mekong in Pakse








Breakfast at Imoun Homestay

After a 2 hour ride across the Lao countryside through Highway 13 (this major road traverses from Pakse to Savannakhet up north and to the southern islands of the Champasak province, we reached Ban Lak 30. We turned west (right) running on a narrow road. The bus assistant shouted “Champasak” so I scampered and hopped off my bus.

WHERE WAS I GOING

There were small houses, stores selling drinks and fruits, and a seemingly rundown temple (Wat Ban Muang). But I didn’t know where I was. I was lost! Carrying my Agoda reservations form with me, I asked around for “Champasak Guest House”.

The girl from a store pointed south, but after a 5 minute walk, it felt like it was the wrong way. There’s no guest house anywhere near there. I asked again – this time I was bafflingly pointed north, so I obediently walked for 5 minutes and once again, found nothing. After walking back and forth – north to south and back, another girl finally pointed me east! But that’s the river, I said! She insisted I walk towards the river! When I finally did, I saw a makeshift wharf. A catamaran – 2 boats placed side by side by wooden planks – was waiting for travelers who wanted to cross the river! This was the local commuter service. And it dawned on me that I was at Ban Muang (Muang village), the drop off point for travels to Champasak Town. Champasak is located at the other side of the Mekong!

Sleepy Ban Muang where coasters and buses stop for passengers heading to Champasak Town


The wharf (above and below) at Ban Muang. Across the Mekong is Ban Phapien (Phapin Village).

I stepped into the catamaran, placed my backpack on the dry planks and smiled at the little girl and her father with a motorcycle. This was exciting. The river crossing didn’t take 15 minutes, as the river was mild and serenely slicing through the waters, languidly glancing through anonymous isles. Upon reaching the other side, I paid my 20,000 kip ($2.51) fare – and was once again shrouded with the disconcerting feeling of being lost.

If Ban Muang seemed lethargic, this land – wherever this was – felt close to flat lining. Where was its population? There were no signs of activity at close to 12 noon. Do I walk? That seemed like the only option. There were no motorcycles waiting either. I couldn't find anyone to ask. Where the heck was I?

It also dawned on me that Ban Wat Thong, the center of town, was nowhere near. I had to head south, based on the minuscule sketches on a map from my LP. I saw signs and started jotting them down for reference. Just in case… First hand experience is educational, but tiresome as I realized I was in Ban Phapien (Phapin village). It’s a 2 kilometer walk south of Champasak. I didn’t know it then; Only, that I had to keep walking south, since there's a single road to town. The houses looked abandoned – or people were probably asleep? Or hiding? Maybe they wake up and transform when darkness embrace the land? Ohgawd!

Not knowing where I was exactly, I categorized this experience as being “lost”. Carrying a 9 kilogram backpack under the intense sun was no walk in the park. So I found myself stopping under the shade every so often. There were 4 villages to get through: (1) Ban Phapien (or Phapin) where the wharf is; (2) Ban Phoxay; (3) Ban Muangsen (Muongsen/Mungsean); and (4) Ban Wat Thong. Each village has his own temple, named after the village (i.e. Wat Phapien, Wat Phoxay, Wat Muongsen, Wat Thong aka Wat Nyutthitham which has royal association).

A catamaran carrying passengers across the Mekong (from Ban Muang to Ban Phapien in Champasak Town)

The wharf at Ban Phapien





Fruit store in Ban Phapien


One-road town. Ban Phapien and heading south.


Some one is getting married?


Fields


Wat Ban Phoxay

Walking on snail pace, I noticed more guest houses as I headed towards Ban Muongsen: Anouxa Guest House and Thavisab Hotel, made familiar by my readings. I was pleased to see them coming to life. The Lao Telecommunications Building looked deserted but I was told that it’s operational. Most houses had typical wooden architecture. Another structure – the Champasak Library – is in a state of disrepair which is ironic because a sign says it’s being renovated by the Laria Foundation of Italy, the Global Heritage Fund of the USA and the Champasak District. Yet people seemingly haven’t set foot near the premises in ages.

Upon reaching Ban Mungsen, I was already breathless. Perspiration was running down my shirt. I saw evidence of life: a girl was standing behind a grill, cooking banana. I bought 3 pieces for 1,000 kip ($0.13) and stood beside the girl who graciously offered a plastic seat. I was grateful for the hospitality and the presence of a living soul. For a while there, it felt like zombies were the only ones populating the land. Right across us was a temple – Wat Mungsen. I left my backpack beside the girl for a few minutes and checked out the temple. It really was my convenient excuse to leave my 9-kg baggage to a friendly stranger. Would she run away with my belongings? I knew where she lives! LOL

After checking out the temple, I continued my foray south. Then I saw the Tourist Information Center, the Post Office, a sprawling Champasak Town Hall, and a roundabout fountain in the middle of the street, a relic of Champasak's royal past some 30 years ago. Across and to its left is my Champasak Guest House. I was overjoyed I left my baggage once again beside the road and jumped towards the fountain. No one was there. Do people hibernate in Champasak? Am I supposed to dig in or ransack the residences to find its inhabitants?

A marker says I was in Ban Muongsen


Wat Ban Muangsen


A store





Lao Telecom








Typical Lao wooden houses in Champasak Town


Thavisab Hotel


Champasak Library is supposedly undergoing renovations as funded by Italy's Laria Foundation, USA's Global Heritage Fund and the Champasak District. It looked pretty abandoned to me.


A nice Lao girl selling bananas. The bananas were very fragrant but when you bite into them, they were tangy and sticky in the mouth, like they were far from being ripe.


Wat Ban Muangsen (above and below)

I made my way to the seemingly abandoned Champasak Guest House and I’ve never felt so victorious for having made it there. This was going to be home for a couple of days. I gradually noticed the sprawl of the riverside Champa Restaurant, owned by the same guy who owns my guest house. The Mekong looked beautiful and oblivious to my presence. It displayed a murmur filled with grace and serenity.

I occupied the huge near-central, river-facing Room 3 in Champasak Guest House which only has 8 rooms. There were no lobbies to speak of, the staff was close to being non existent, but my room had a comfortable bed, glistening floor, and a large bathroom. And no TV. After freshening up, I sat at the bench of the backyard foyer. The great old Mekong once again beckoned like a familiar friend. While reading my LP, it was only then that I learned I had walked 2 kilometers – on a mostly abandoned road - with my 9-kg bag! I knew I had dropped a lot of curses along the way. But I was caught unaware. How can any town not have any means of transportation?

The bright side was: I’m left with a lot of daylight hours to visit Wat Phu and Tomo Temple. But before that, it was time to feed myself.

This is the Eye in the Sky!

Champasak Town Hall is sprawling.


A "fountain" at the roundabout in the center of Ban Wat Thong's main street. Curiously, this didn't have a spout that blows water. It has a stair and the 4 petal-like structures had chipping off paint.


Champasak Guest House and the backyard view facing the Mekong

FAST FACTS:

Distances from Pakse –

Pakse to Ban Muang – 34 kilometers

Pakse to Wat Phu – 46 kilometers

Ban Phapin to Wat Phu – 12 kilometers

Ban Phapin to Champasak’s Wat Thong – 2 kilometers

Boat ride from Ban Muang to Ban Phapin - 10-15 minutes on the river

Transport Rates:

Pakse to Champasak – 80,000 kip or thereabouts

Pakse to Vientiane – 170,000 kip

Pakse to Vang Vieng – 250,000 kip

Pakse to Luang Prabang – 330,000 kip

Boat ride from Ban Muang to Ban Phaphien across the Mekong - 20,000 kip one-way

How to get from Pakse to Champasak Town:

The bus travels south along Highway 13 for 2 hours. Upon reaching Ban Lak 30, it turns west and stops at Ban Muang (village). This is your bus stop. Head to Ban Muang’s wharf (the dirt road is across Wat Ban Muang) and take a ride on a catamaran (two boats placed side by side) to cross the Mekong. You will reach the western village of Ban Phapien. There are supposedly motorbikes or songthaews but if you don’t find any (like me), walk 2 kilometers south from Ban Phapin and through Ban Phoxay, Ban Muangsen and Ban Watthong. The center of town is Ban Watthong. Wat Phu is located 10 kilometers further south. You can rent a bike or hire a motorcycle to get there.

Pakse to Ban Lak 30 to Ban Muang to Ban Phapien to Ban Watthong (Champasak Town's town center).