Surreal Pakse Tales - How the Monks Descended Down their Temples to Join Me

Pakse, Champasak Province, Laos - It's no secret that during my travels in Laos, I have developed the habit of "stalking" the monks during their morning alms ritual. I don't know why, but they draw me like moth to a flame. I have no intentions of disrespecting them, but I do hope they shall pardon my boundless curiosity - my only attempt of explanation regarding this behavior.

REVERIE

On my last morning in Pakse, before crossing the border back to Ubon Ratchathani in Thailand, I had my bags packed as early as 6 AM. I went down to the ground floor restaurant and found myself alone in a sea of empty tables. There were stacks of plates on the three buffet tables which I found odd considering that the palace hotel seemed mostly under-occupied. I took my seat on a table for six and place my backpack beside my chair. A couple of fried eggs, a noodle dish and fried rice later, I was back on my seat. While chomping away for sustenance, I was conscious of my day ahead. Crossing the border, no matter how many times I've done it, is never a pleasant experience. I get nervous every time.

In the midst of my reverie, several monks started populating the restaurant - and to my surprise, I found myself surrounded by them. Every where I looked, they were there! Now how does irony play in a guy who makes it his habit to stalk the monk while traveling around Laos? Sing for me, Alanis Morissette.

SURREAL

After all those crazy mornings, I was among them, eating with them in glorious splendor. Now how's that for a farewell surprise? It was one of the most surreal experiences I have ever had. It turns out that these Thai monks were going on a holiday. From Thailand, they are taking a couple of double-decker buses from Laos to Vietnam, and I was there eating breakfast with them! Why was Champasak Palace Hotel so eerily quiet last night? It didn't feel like people were occupying the hotel. In fact, it almost had full occupancy.

It was such pleasure to say the least. After my meal, I discreetly (without a flash, thus the inferior quality of the photos here) took photos to document the special moment. I was also once again able to check out the backyard. It was a special day to be leaving Pakse.

This is the Eye in the Sky!

I was one of the first at the restaurant. they were still filling up the breakfast trays for the buffet meal.

Why so many plates? I would eventually find out.

Check out my backpack at the empty chair (left). It was a pleasant surprise to partake a meal with the monks. And they ate as heartily as ordinary people.

After his breakfast, a monk checks out the palace hotel's backyard. 

Chamapasak Palace Hotel's backyard. This leads back to the restaurant.

Offerings at the altar.

In Ayutthaya, they used yellow ribbons and garments to tie the trees with. In Pakse, they employ varied colors.

Monks at the lobby as they wait for their departure to Vietnam.

Photo opportunities as well.

Two double-decker buses for the traveling monks.

The beautiful Champasak Palace Hotel on the morning of my departure.

Pakse's VIP Bus Terminal & Other Bus Schedules and Rates

This is boring stuff but we're posting this to provide information.

We have noted bus schedules and rates during our traipse around Pakse so we could share them with fellow travelers who need to have an idea about travel distances and duration of trips, bus schedules, and more importantly, rates of such trips from Pakse to domestic and foreign destinations. The bigger terminal is located south of Champasak Palace Hotel and hosts most domestic travels. The one posted above is the VIP Bus Terminal, a small parcel of land off Route 13. This is the destination and departure point of most VIP Bus Rides to and from Ubon Ratchthani in Thailand. There are 4 counters, two of them operational. There's a left luggage that charges 5,000 kip per bag - although it seems unwise to use it considering how unsealed it is. The doors from both sides are open and no one tends to the bags which are just placed down the floor.

Tuktuks and jumbos usually wait (for "victims") from this terminal that's mostly a "ghost place" between scheduled trips, unlike the bigger, main domestic terminal which is surrounded by a day market. The Kriang Krai Bus services the Ubon-Pakse-Ubon trips, but - like their Thai counterpart, don't allow reservations. You have to purchase them an hour or two before the departure - so it's wise to ask around before your schedule.

I am sharing the other schedules. Please note that items from these trips may have changed by the time you get to read this. My point here is, this information will give you an insight on the possibilities of travel to towns like Kratie in Cambodia, Hue in Vietnam, or Bangkok in Thailand just by merely taking a bus from Pakse. It will also give you an idea of how much it would cost you - more or less.

Finally, check that your passport's ready (the counters will require it when you purchase international rides) and have a safe and pleasurable trip.

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V.I.P. Bus Tickets from Pakse

Vientiane – 8 PM to 6 AM

Ubon (Thailand) – 8 AM, 3:30 PM

Hue (Vietnam) – 7 AM, 7 PM

Da Nang (Vietnam) – 7 AM, 7 PM

AC Minivans from Pakse (vans depart between 8AM to 10:30AM daily)

Don Khong – 55,000 kip

Don Det – 55,000 kip

Don Khone – 60,000 kip

VIP Bus from Pakse to Cambodian towns (departs 7AM and arrives in…)

Stung treng – 12PM, 160,000 kip

Kratie – 2PM, 180,000 kip

Banlung – 6PM, 200,000 kip

Kampong Cham – 5PM, 200,000 kip

Phnom Penh – 7PM, 220,000 kip

Siem Reap – 9:30PM, 280,000 kip

Champanakhone Travel - schedule and rate for travels from Pakse to:

Champasak – 45,000 kip, depart at 8 AM, arrive at 9:30 AM

Ban Nakasang (for Don Det) – 55,000 kip, depart at 8AM, arrive at 10 AM

Don Khong (Big Island) – 55,000 kip, depart at 8 AM, arrive at 10 AM

Attapue – 88,000 kip, depart 8 AM, arrive at 2:30 PM

Saravanh – 65,000 kip, depart at 8 AM, arrive at 12:30PM

Savannakhet – 80,000 kip, depart at 8 AM, arrive at 3:30 PM

Thakeak – 170,000 kip, depart at 8:30 AM, arrive at 1 AM

Vientiane – 170,000 kip, depart at 8:30 AM, arrive at 6:30 AM the next day

Vang Vieng – 250,000 kip, depart at 8:30 AM, arrive at 2:30 PM the next day

Luang Prabang – 360,000 kip, depart at 8:30 AM, arrive at 5:30 PM the next day

Champanakhone Travel, International route from Pakse:

Lao Bao – 180,000 kip, depart at 8 AM, arrive at 3 PM

Dong ha – 200,000 kip, depart at 8 AM, arrive at 7 PM

Hue – 200,000 kip, depart at 8 AM, arrive at 8 PM

Danang – 200,000 kip, depart at 8 AM, arrive at 9 PM

VIP Bus to Thailand:

Ubon – 75,000 kip, 8:30 AM to 11:30 AM and 3:30 PM to 6:30 PM

Bangkok bus – 240,000 kip, 3:30 PM to 6 AM

Bangkok by bus and train – 340,000 kip, 3:30 PM to 6 AM

VIP Bus to Cambodia :

Stung Treng – 120,000 kip, 7:45 AM to 11:30 AM

Kratie – 170,000 kip, 7:45 AM to 2:30 PM

Banlung – 200,000 kip, 7:45 AM to 4:30 PM

Kampong Cham – 200,000 kip, 7:45 AM to 5”30 PM

Phnom Penh – 220,000 kip, 7:45 AM to 7:30 PM

Siem Reap – 240,000 kip, 7:45 AM to 10 PM

Left Luggage room: see how easily things can disappear in such untended room.

Waiting hall

Bus Station, the backyard - where buses usually park and wait.

More schedule from Kriang Rai VIP Buses

More trips

Tuktuk waits beside the small canteen by the gate.

My bus from Ubon Ratchathani to Pakse

My bus from Pakse back to Ubon Ratchathani in Thailand. Now you have to remember your Bus Number because you need to write the number on your Immigration Forms at the border.

One of the few beautiful sights found at the VIP Bus Terminal but people mostly ignore this bas relief.

Map of Laos and its contiguous areas care of Magellan Geographix and www.maps.com.

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BUSES AND BORDER CROSSINGS

To answer a question posted below, here are a couple of maps showing the two most common routes and border crossings if you're headed to Pakse (South Laos) from Ho Chi Minh City/Saigon (Vietnam).

Owing to the geographic location of HCMC (at the southern end of Vietnam), a traveler has to cross the Khmer border, pass through Phnom Penh and get to Siem Reap up north. From SR, you can book for another bus that will cross the Lao border to get to Champasak. Then from Champasak, take another bus that travels to Pakse. I'd say this itinerary is 3 buses worth and would take roughly 48 hours or more.

The other route would be to travel to Hue, north of Saigon. From Hue, there are buses that cross the Lao border and on to Savannakhet, north of Pakse. From Savannakhet, you take another bus for Pakse. That's another 3 buses worth of travels and would, again, roughly take more than 48 hours - if you get continuous trips, which is highly unlikely. Cross-country buses are limited and usually travel either very early in the day or late in the evening, except for the Saigon-Phnom Penh (there should be plenty because this is an easy 2-3 hour journey), but Siem Reap is far from PP.

HCMC to Hue. Then Hue to Savannakhet. Take another bus from Savannakhet to Pakse.

HCMC crosses the border to get to Phnom Penh then travels onward to Siem Reap. Take another bus from SR to Champasak, then another to Pakse. 

Little Journey to a Chinese Temple - Pakse Tales

I saw a bashful little temple from my hotel's veranda, conveniently hiding behind trees and slightly peeping over the Sedone I Bridge. Though I hardly see proof of activity, it was beckoning me to get off my palace hotel for a late afternoon sojourn. People in Pakse just call it Wat Tsin because, well, it's a Chinese Temple.

While the mild afternoon sun provided glorious light all around me, I leisurely ventured towards the bridge - Sedone I. I had to cross from one side to the other to get better views of the flowing Sedone River as it heads in slithering fashion towards the west to join the Mekong. The walk didn't take 15 minutes. There were few people crossing the bridge, mostly children on their way home from school.

Upon reaching the eastern end of the bridge, I found a 30-or-so steps of stairs leading to the riverside grounds. I walked towards the direction of the small temple - with its four-level pagoda punctuating the fenced border. I wanted to check the grounds further but a few things held me back: a dog barking, the fence specifically providing barriers. Visitors were clearly not welcome here. Robert Frost, in "Mending Wall", had a more succinct observation:

"SOMETHING there is that doesn't love a wall,
That sends the frozen-ground-swell under it,
And spills the upper boulders in the sun;
And makes gaps even two can pass abreast."

I got closer to the river and saw Champasak Palace Hotel from across. I couldn't see my room as it was facing west. Indeed, the hotel looked like a stack of layered cake, as described in tourist guides. Before heading back to the bridge, a placid pond nearby invited me to stay a few more minutes... so I did. I am going to miss Pakse more than I'd ever expected.

This is the Eye in the Sky!

Sedone I Bridge

Wat Tsin

Sedone I Bridge facing the south

Sedone I Bridge facing north.

Sedone River heads to the west in confluence with the Mekong.

The Champasak Palace Hotel becomes a silhouette on western sun.

Wat Tsin grounds

Thirty steps or so from the bridge to the riverside ground.

A pond east from the riverside.