Champasak Provincial Historic Museum Part 2 - Faded Photographs, Musical Instruments & More

In this 2nd part, we will just graze the surface of Laos' history to give this post some perspective. Since many people would rather forget dates, we're opting for slide-show flashes of the country's past. If you're easily bored, skip this post. Bear in mind that we feel the need to document our visit at the Champasak Provincial Historic Museum. This last of a 2-parter concentrates on the photographic displays, as well as some musical instruments, found in the museum.

EARLY LAOS

Laos reeks with history, struggles and strifes. Like much of Southeast Asia, the migration of the Homo sapiens eventually reached Laos and produced the first pottery and bronze metallurgy.Their hunting techniques soon evolved into horticulture and rice cultivation. In the Nithan Khun Borom, the myth of the creation of the Lao people is retold until the eventual founding of the first Lao Kingdom located in the vicinity of present day Luang Prabang. The first extended Lao Kingdom dates from the mid-14th century. The evolution of this ascendancy came about as influenced by the political changes around the region -  the rise of the Khmer rulers, the stepping in of Ramkhamhaeng who founded the Tai-Syam kingdom of Sukhothai, and the loss of interest of the Mongol Yuan Dynasty in further conquering Southeast Asia. Eventually the Kingdom of Lan Xang came about, as recounted by the first Europeans to arrive in Viang Chan (Vientiane).

ROYALTY, COLONIAL RULE, COMMUNISM

Lan Xang was composed of three smaller kingdoms - Viang Chan, Luang Prabang and Champasak. This underlines the importance of Champasak in the affairs of the country. In 1867, members of the French Mekong Expedition reached Luang Prabang, and by 1893, France gains sovereignty over all Lao territory east of Mekong which was captured by Japan in 1945. However, the French reoccupied the country a year later, sending the Lao Issara Government into exile. In 1949, partial independence was accorded to Laos by the French. A year later, the Pathet Lao (a communist organization) formed the resistance government. It didn't take long for Laos to ultimately embrace Communism, much to the disappointment of the Americans who, in 1964, began their war against ground targets in Laos. In 1975, the communist movement successfully seized power and declared the country as Lao People's Democratic Republic (PDR)!

MISNOMER

The name is a misnomer, to be quite frank, because the country is run by the tenets of communism. In fact, censorship is heavily observed in media practices. "Good Morning, Luang Prabang", the very first commercial movie to screen in Laos after it was seized by the communist rule in the 70's, had government monitors plotting the story of the movie (they modified the script as they saw fit and removed what's perceived as criticism to the government) and  were even present during the filming. Take note that the film's genre is light romance - a ruminative travelogue featuring a local beauty queen and a Thai - with Lao blood - superstar) and nowhere near the political commentaries that the government dismisses. Oh well. Baby steps.

These days, Laos is slowly moving forward into the future. Though commercialism plods on snail paced speed, I feel that this is all for the better. And I am honored to have seen the country (and then again very soon - for the third time) before it will eventually be cloaked by commercialism.

Entrance to the Champasak Provincial Historic Museum in Pakse, South Laos.

The second story is filled with faded photographs that plot the history of Laos.

During Laos Prime Minister Thongsing Thammavong's first visit in the Philippines, a three-day official visit (June 3 to 6, 2012), the two heads of state signed several agreements that shall foster improved bilateral relations. These include the following: 1) a Memorandum of understanding (MOU) between the University of the Philippines Los Banos (Laguna) and the National University of Laos to develop academic and educational cooperation between the two universities; 2) an MOU between the Foreign Service Institute between the Department Foreign Affairs of the two nations; 3) MOU between the Philippine Sports Commission and the Ministry of Education and Sports of both countries.

According to the Philippine Star, there are 556 Filipinos in Laos, mostly professionals. Last May 18, the very first Laos film to be shown in a commercial cinema was presented to the public during the "Asia as Our Society Film Festival" at the Shangrila Cineplex. The movie: Anousone Sirisackda's 2010 directorial debut called "Only Love" - a film that hybrids social responsibility and light romance.

This is the Eye in the Sky!

Musical instruments

Drum

This bronze drum dates back to 1000 years and was found in a certain Mr. Bon Eua's house which is now a Provincial Meeting Hall. 

Gongs

Jars and pots

An elephant howrah

Armaments? Farming gadgets? 

The Fangum King united the divisive regions and formed the Lane Xang Kingdom. Nowadays, the royal regime is given honor by naming a majestic street in Vientiane after it. I originally thought that "Lane Xang" referred to a "lane" - a street, instead of being a royal reign in Laos' past. Lane Xang is now a beautiful street in the heart of Vientiane that hosts a beautiful arch called Patuxai, several embassies, some shopping malls, and - at the end of the street, the Prime Minister's Palace. 

The struggle against Siam

Bare breasted Laven minority girl. This was taken in Attapeu Province, 1940.

Communal drinking from a liquor jar. Bonding time of the Lao Uplaud people.

All the single ladies, all the single ladies... Now put your hands up... Up in the club, we just broke up, I'm doing my own little thing...

Lao alphabets used during the 15th century.

Comrade Kaysone Phomvihane (first from left) and his Vietnamese army cadres.

Lao cadets and volunteer Vietnamese soldiers at the southwest Attapu base in South Laos.

Laos Issara Government Prime Minister Souphanouvong delivers his speech at the Viet Minh-Lien Viet Unification Congress, Viet Bac in 1951.  

President Ho Chi Minh and President Kaysone Phomvihane during the latter's visit in Hanoi in 1961.

President Ho Chi Minh and President Souphanouvong during the latter's visit in Hanoi in 1967.

Foreign prisoners

Lao-Vietnamese anti-aircraft artillery unit, 1972.

Lao women presenting flowers to volunteer Vietnamese soldiers.

Lao artillery women recieve gifts from Madam Nguyen Thi Dinh, a Vietnamese dignitary.

Lao people carrying food and ammunition along the western Truongson Road.

LPRP Central Committe President and State President Khamtay Siphandone makes an official visit in Hanoi, Vietnam. (January 3, 1999)

Champasak Museum Part 1 - Artifacts and More - http://eye-in-the-blue-sky.blogspot.com/2012/06/champasak-provincial-historic-museum.html

Laos PM Thongsing Thammavong and Philippine President Noynoy Aquino during the former's first visit in the Philippines. Welcome, Mr. PM. This photo only courtesy of  Mr. Ryan Lim of the Malacanang Photo Bureau and www.pcoo.gov.ph.

Laos PM Thammavong and Philippine President Noynoy Quino stand to witness bilateral agreement between the two countries. This photo only courtesy of Mr. Jay Morales of the Malacanang Photo Bureau and www.pcoo.gov.ph.

Laos Prime Minister Thongsing Thammavong being guided by Philippine President Benigno Aquino III during the former's first visit in Manila. This photo only courtesy of Mr. Jay Morales of the Malacanang Photo Bureau and www.pcoo.gov.ph.

One Royal Day - Pakse's Champasak Palace Hotel

Once upon a time, in a far away land of indomitable warriors, there lived a prince whose father succumbs to illness. Now who doesn't want a piece of this fantasy world? So when the opportunity presented itself, I booked for a room at a palace-turned-hotel in Pakse. Wouldn't you?


The Champasak Palace was a former residence of the Prince of Champasak, Chao Boun Oum, the son of King Ratsadanay from the latter's 4th wife, Princess Sudhisaramuni. Boun Oum ascended to the throne in 1946 upon the death of his father. But he eventually renounced his rights to give way to a united royalty system that made Sisavangvong the ruler of the unified kingdom. He became Prime Minister of Laos from 1948 to 1950 where, as a sympathetic patron of the French colonial rule, he commanded a force of 15,000 to fight the Japanese Troops and the Lao Issara uprising of South Laos. In 1960, he once again became PM for two years, then retired from politics thereafter. When the communist group Pathet Lao (a movement closely associated with the Vietnamese communists) came to power in 1975, Boun Oum had to abandon his post, flew to France for medical treatment and never came back. Sounds familiar? History is really a vicious cycle of seemingly preordained events, something that’s dressed differently where, in truth, is a familiar animal. With the monarchy abolished, what is left for any royal blood to linger?

Construction of the palace began in 1968 and went on until 1976 when the Prince of Champasak Chao Boun Oum had to abandon it 2 years short of its completion. The architectural style is French, more than Lao, although, as mentioned before, it reminded me of Louisiana and New Orleans of a grander scale.

In 1995, a Thai conglomerate succeeded their negotiations with the Lao government, effectively converting the palace into a hotel. Though the establishment has been fitted for consumerism (so much for the  tenets of communism, right?), much of its interiors and designs have been retained: the hand-painted art-deco tiles; the exquisite hand carvings found in windows, stairway posts and cornices – each one different from the next. 


The hotel boasts of 5 floors, 116 guest rooms, 6 different categories (according to the financial capability of the guest), glass elevator (the only one of its kind in the country) and a view of Pakse right in the heart of the southern capital. As a trivia, the establishment has 1,900 doors and windows, thus earning it the moniker of “Thousand Room Pavillion”.

Champasak Palace Hotel: grand wedding-cake layer design!

Though the hotel staff is mostly hospitable and accommodating, their number is limited. In fact, a hotel this big requires more personnel to run it competently. This is the reason why typical (i.e. “expected”) services found in other nearby hotels and guesthouses - like day tours, purchase of bus and plane tickets, transportations from and to the hotel, etc. - aren't offered here. One must arrange and secure his own transfer arrangement. The hotel won’t do it for you. If you require a tuktuk to take you around town, they will cordially offer a big grin then point you to the highway just outside the hotel where you could hail yourself transportation. Convenient, right?

The hotel is situated in the heart of the city. With its very central site, every tuktuks from terminals (from the VIP Bus Garage to the Southern Bus Terminal) know about this. And they cannot and should not charge exponentially considering its distance from the terminals. It should range between 20,000 to 40,000 kip from the terminal to the hotel. Moreover, the place is a wee more hectic because the hotel is located beside Route 13, the main highway that runs the north-south axis of Laos. There’s a beautiful, sprawling temple complex - Wat Tham Fai - to its south; the Sedone River and a scenic bridge (Sedone I Bridge) to its east; a backpacker’s row to the north; and the road towards Thailand to the west. Breakfast is a sumptuous buffet at the main restaurant beside the front desk at the hotel lobby. Dining tables are also available at the backyard garden.

LUXURIOUS DAYDREAMS


I got my room at the 2^nd floor, room 203. It had a veranda and faced the lawn. More importantly, it had tastefully decorated interiors: from the curtains, fixtures of ceiling to floor, a huge bathroom with a curvaceous tub, etc. It was a beautiful place to stay! At night, I could sit at a corner and daydream of its bountiful, nay adventurous past; of gracious princesses and lavish ceremonies. It isn't such a bad deal to get a piece of fairy tale here.

The hotel is located 3 kilometers from Pakse Airport which has limited local services..

Call them at +856-31-212-263 or email them at  info@champasakpalacehotel.com. You can also visit their website at http://www.champasakpalacehotel.com/. More conveniently, Agoda offers discounts on certain months. A single standard room costs about 500,000 kip ($65 or P3,000) - and even cheaper if you a) book early, b) chance on a promo offer, c) book during an off-peak season. I would suggest Agoda, of course, for a no-frills booking. This includes buffet breakfast. Where else do you find palace living as cheap as this? Only in Laos.

For a gallery of the palace grounds: http://www.champasakpalacehotel.com/gallery.html

This is the Eye in the Sky!

Lotus flowers and Koi fishes inhabit this pond.

Hotel lobby surrounded by a pond and a garden

A fountain intermittently works at the facade of the palace-hotel grounds.

Front desk

Restaurant beside the front desk.

There are tables and chairs at the backyard of the hotel where you can spend  your meal at a garden with a pagoda and animal sculptures.

Warm morning sun bathes this east-facing veranda. 

My room at 203.

My veranda. Notice the door design and the unique lock system.

From my room, this hallway leads east to a glass lift.

At night, my beautiful veranda can get eerie.

The veranda facing the east which has a view of Sedone River.

A view of Sedone River

Sedone I Bridge. Just across the river is a quaint temple that people refer to as Wat Tsin, i.e. the chinese temple. Would I be able to see it up close?

The reclusive Wat Tsin from across Sedone River.

Wat Tsin

Statues of animals at the hotel's backyard

Restaurant tables at the backyard garden at night

A room at the 5th floor

Night view of the main highway, Route 13 at night.

Scale model of the palace now a hotel.