Jaswant Thada - More Delightful Images from a Memorial

People from the distant past foresaw a predictable future of men who easily forget. And when you’re king, fought a hundred battles, sacrificed a lot of kins to push some causes, you don’t want to be an inconsequential, albeit easily forgettable speck in history. Jaswant Singh maybe a faceless maharaja ruler to me, but his might and influence soar high in my consciousness when I see these immaculate architectural structures. It’s an uncanny deal for remembrances.

I must have sat on a spot for an hour, just enjoying the uphill breeze, helplessly cogitating about immortality. This is one of the pleasures of solitary travels, little pieces of sadness, little snippets of introspection. They help clear my mind, and though they may not make me a better person, I feel smarter and more informed. I wouldn’t have it any other way.

I could see the fortifications, the sturdy walls that enclose the old city. Boy, these people lived in a very paranoid period. I wouldn’t mind traveling back on a Time Machine, but I’ve no intentions of staying in such volatile atmosphere.

I stood from where I sat and made my way out. It was time to move on and head elsewhere. I couldn’t exactly decide how to get back to town. The sinewy walk I earlier took to climb up the hill looked daunting after seeing the hundreds of blue houses down the path. I knew I’d get lost, and I wasn’t too keen of happening since I still have an itinerary in mind: Umaid Bhawan Palace, touted as the last great palace ever built in India.

At the entrance of Jaswant Thada stood the same auto rickshaw driver who hounded me from Meherangarh Fort! Imagine him asking me 500 rupees for the 1 kilometer distance that covered from the fort to Jaswant Thada? It should be a mere 20 rupees! Such shameless commerce. And you wonder why I despised the guy? I was surprised to see him there. He knew he needed to offer a better deal this time because I would probably walk to the moon than ride in his rickshaw. He offered me 100 rupees back to my guest house, Ganpati Guest House near Sardar Market. I needed to freshen up, take a late lunch before proceeding to Umaid Bhawan Palace. I had to eventually say yes.

The ride down the east road was rather pleasant. It would have taken me forever to walk, and with the sun blazing its heat, it wouldn’t have been that pleasant either. The view down below was a pretty sight. I saw the Clock Tower from afar – and I saw, in smoggy vista, Umaid Bhawan Palace barely peeping though what could be dusty air, smog or pollution. I was excited.

Jaswant Thada





Jaswant Thada: cenotaph and crematorium


Pigeons house themselves in slabs of marble.

After a fast shower, I went to have my lunch at Shivan Paying Guest House’s restaurant. It was relaxing. The waiter kept stealing glances at me. What am I, a movie star now? LOL. After placing my order, he bashfully asked if I was Korean. I laughed. It’s your eyes, he explained. My meal was half fried chicken (110 rupees), a plate of rice served in one of those delightful silver platters that’s typically Indian (35 rupees) and a bottle of Pepsi (15 rupees). At 160 rupees ($3.20 or P138.50), it would be one of my better meals. I carefully checked out the chicken and noticed it had brownish powders sprinkled on it; and its skin orangey. Interesting. I was glad it wasn’t too spicy.

I’m already living with my spicy adventure.

This is the Eye in the Sky!

Fortifications surrounding the Meherangarh Fort!


Serenity at the Jaswant Thada Lake





Marbled gazebos


Clock Tower


Umaid Bhawan Palace, The last great palace ever built in India.


Half chicken, rice and Pepsi at 160 rupees from Shivan Paying Guest House.

Please check out 1st part of Jaswant Thada: history and more information - http://eye-in-the-blue-sky.blogspot.com/2011/10/jaswant-thada-beauty-tranquility-in.html

Up next: Umaid Bhawan Palace

Jaswant Thada – Beauty & Tranquility in Jodhpur

PRINCE OF ENGLAND

From the eastern entrance of the Meherangarh Fort, a white architectural landmark could be seen from a distance. It was 1 kilometer downhill, along the only available road for vehicles that clamber up the hill. I sauntered past billowing smokes of dust and out into an almost deserted road. An auto rickshaw driver followed me as I walked the half abandoned road. Where are the tourists that congest the fortress? Do they use a different path I wasn't told? My reverie was occasionally broken by the almost desperate pleading of the rickshaw driver. I had ignored him after he quoted a staggering rate for a ride into town? Try 500 rupees, when it should be exponentially less. Did I look like the Crown Prince of England? It should be obvious that I looked Asian – not Japanese, heavens! - with Asian currency and Asian exchange rate to speak of.

But he was tailing me all through my hike. The sun was up and vehicles passing were few and far between. At some point, I was already cursing because “no” should mean “no” when you’ve said it countless times.

In spite of my partial disgust, I was pleased to reach Jaswant Thada on foot. It's a beautiful memorial compound built in memory of a Rathore ruler named Jaswant Singh. I paid 20 rupees ($0.40) for the entrance and 25 rupees ($0.50) for my camera, hiding a smile when I realized that the persistent rickshaw driver was left outside. Since he was all alone, he would have to leave eventually. Or would he?

BALLPEN TOURISM

I took my time to commence my visit. I was in no rush. I was simply enamored by the location. My criteria for “beauty” among inanimate objects are pretty basic: a hill, a lake, blue sky, intricate designs, and few people! Jaswant checked in every element. I couldn't be happier. The ticket seller asked me where I was from, and I was tempted to say – “From poverty-stricken Philippines” – but that isn’t a very nationalistic introduction of a country, is it? I tried with a bit more verve, “Philippines!” the way beauty contestants emphatically declare the countries they represent - with a wide grin. But it was a futile exercise. He had no idea where this Pacific speck of 7,100 islands is! I might as well hail from Antananarivo and it wouldn't matter. The ticket seller then proceeded to ask if I own a ballpen from my country - and could he can have it as souvenir? Why do they keep asking for ballpens or coins? I've already given several to strangers. Soon I’d be left with nothing for personal use. Dang!

There’s a placid lake that welcomes you while finding your way towards the front lawn. From there, I could see Meherangarh Fort looking sturdy, majestic, and impersonal. It also looked far. I proceeded to the main architectural landmark rising before me – a white marble that reflected a yellowish hue as the sun’s rays deflected against its surface. It was splendid if people still use that term – with smaller chhatris adorning the roof above, gazing out like a coterie of crowns. The compound contained a cenotaph for Jaswant, a crematorium, three white gazebos at the backyard; there were other rectangular structures at the back, including a memorial for a peacock (it supposedly emolated itself - threw itself into the fire - during Jaswant’s burial, imagine that).

Maharaja Jaswant Singh was a Marwari ruler in Rajasthan (a Rajput of the Rathore clan). He lived an interesting life as he fought a nasty rivalry with Mughal emperor Aurangzeb (who killed Jaswant’s son, Prince Prithvi after Aurangzeb sent the prince a poisoned garment). Prithvi died in excruciating pain. Jaswant eventually passed away in 1680 – he was 51 years old. These royalties of old seem to live short life spans, I noticed. In 1899, Sardar Singh (from whom the familiar market down below was named after) built Jaswant a memorial made of white marbles which were extremely thin and intricately carved and polished.

The best part is the serenity that abound. The view of the blue city down below was nothing less than awe inspiring. If it’s peace you’re after, this one won’t disappoint. From the terrace, I could see the walls – the fortifications that surround the old city of Jodhpur, it reminded me of the walls of Avila in Spain; maybe of Intramuros in Manila; of Surakarta in Indonesia as well. This was an appropriate abode where souls could rest.

Eternity could be tolerable when you have this view to look at.

This is the Eye in the Sky!

Meherangarh Fort is seen at the background. It's a kilometer away, but looks far. I walked from the fort to reach Jaswant Thada with a persistent auto rickshaw driver tailing me.

Beautiful gazebos made of white marbles.



One of the few inhabitants in the memorial.

Up next: More Delightful Images from Jaswant Thada


A chhatri standing near the entrance.