Showing posts with label history. Show all posts
Showing posts with label history. Show all posts

Saturday, July 21, 2018

Odawara Castle and I (Odawara, Kanagawa Prefecture)



The 400-year Old Pine Tree

Odawara is one of my favorite finds in my travels all over Japan. It wasn't in my Lonely Planet. I got the idea from some sponsored blog that came out in Facebook a few days before one of my trips. It takes 35 minutes by Tokaido shinkansen from Tokyo, and a short walk from the JR station. 

Odawara (population roughly 195,000) is situated along Sagami Bay. Its highway was the busy main artery linking medieval Edo (now Tokyo) and Kyoto, covering a distance of 79.5 kilometers. For this visit, I had 3 items on my list: an apricot sweets, Miyukinohama Beach and Odawara Castle.


Hojo Ujimasa, daimyo of Odawara Castle
At the time of the warring states (Sengoku Period) in the 15th century, the Hojo clan ruling the Kanto region built a castle as their residence. 

The daimyo of Odawara, Hojo Ujimasa, while not a particularly great warrior, was a much better administrator. 

In 1588, Toyotomi Hideyoshi, Japan's second greatest unifier (and the one who ordered the invasion of Korea) was to attack the Hojos. There were a lot of negotiations that eventually fell through. Hideyoshi demanded surrender. In the end, Ujimasa and brother Ujiteru were made to commit suicide (seppuku).

Through the years, the castle burned down due to an earthquake in 1633, was dismantled, and then reconstructed again in the 1960's. Nevertheless, the sleepy town flourished around this castle. 


From JR Odawara, I walked through a seemingly deserted city until I reached a lush garden filled with blossoming Wisteria. I crossed a red bridge that led to a square, the Honmaru Hiroba. which provided the good vantage spot for that picture-perfect photo. There's a shop that sells souvenir items. They also rent out samurai costumes and kimonos if you want to level up your Instagram-worthy photos. 

I was pleased that there were very few tourists, thus few distractions. The castle was left for me to discover. If Himeji Castle is my absolute favorite castle in all of Japan, Odawara Castle is second in the line. I have seen about a dozen. Japan has more than a hundred existing castles. In the glory days of Imperial Japan, there were 5,000.

FEATURES

The castle's park grounds has several other sites you can visit including a local museum (Rekishi Kenbun Musuem), a children's amusement park, a Wisteria trellis, Iris and Hydrangea gardens, stone walls, 2 beautiful gates (Tokiwagi-mon and Kurogane-mon Gates), and a moat, among others.  

And if you haven't noticed that photo-bomber tree, showing off beside me on the first photo, it is a 400 year old fixture of the castle ground. You don't wonder about its graceful bow towards the castle tower. It was witness to the colorful history that eventually rebuilt the castle.

I was just there to pay my respects.


Entrance to the castle tower is 500 yen for adults and 200 yen for students.


This short bridge and stairs lead to the Honmaru Square.

This was my walk through the Hydrangea garden. I felt like red carpet was rolled for me.




The garden is a blanket of pink and purple Hydrangeas.

This is one of the bridges near the eastern gate, the Akagane-mon Gate. Miyukinohama Beach is 470 meters from here.

It is 79.5 kilometers from Tokyo to Odawara. By shinkansen, this only takes 35 minutes.



#odawaracastle

Friday, September 15, 2017

Kato Kiyomasa - Conqueror, Castle-Maker, Christian Butcher from Kumamoto Castle (Kumamoto, Kyushu)




In a sudden burst of inspiration, one rainy day in Fukuoka, I decided to go to Kumamoto, 114 kilometers southeast of Fukuoka. I had 4 hours to spare so why not see another Japanese city from a different prefecture (Kumamoto prefecture). By shinkansen, the trip took less than an hour. My destination was the castle.

Since its devastation from an earthquake, Kumamoto Castle has been closed for a major restoration, but this doesn't stop tourists from visiting the grounds surrounding it. More than the splendor of Japan's 3rd largest castle, it has a colorful history. 

Kato Kiyomasa, a ferocious feudal Lord (referred to as daimyo) transformed a small castle into a towering fortress in the early 1600s. Kiyomasa was one of the three conquerors of Seoul and Busan in his heyday. In Kyushu, he was brutal in pursuing Christians. He'd capture pregnant Christian women and slice their bulging bellies alive; remove the unborn child and cut their heads. His mind was in a constant state of war, thus he marked his territories with imposing castles. He ruled his ward with an iron fist and outlawed anything else not related to honing one's fighting skills. Poetry out! Music out! Painting out!



These days, Kato Kiyomasa's statue graces the nearby entrance of Kumamoto Castle. He sits atop a platform, waving a flag, wearing an unusually tall hat, it might as well be Merlin's. If you're visiting the castle grounds, you shouldn't miss Kiyomasa's scowling statue. Otherwise, it's like visiting Tokyo's Shibuya and missing Hachiko.

What I thoroughly enjoyed was the local food found in the shopping arcade near the entrance. I bought souvenir items: those boring postcards and ref magnets; food made out of horse meat, sea urchins, lotus, red beans, and matcha-flavored drinks. And there's that delightful Kumamoto Ramen. When it was time to head back for my train, I was uncomfortably satiated.

The castle's non-appearance was really a seductive invitation. Come back again and see me, I could hear its whisper.




Kumamon (right) is the city's lovable icon. He was voted as Japan's most favorite mascot! You find him in shops and parks, and he has a big head at the Kumamoto Train Station.

Kumamoto Castle. This image only is courtesy of hyolee2 of Wikipedia.

Saturday, February 28, 2015

National Museum of the Filipino People - Chronicles of a Nation Part 1


Life sometimes basks on irony.

Such is fact that I've seen all of the major museums in Southeast Asia and beyond, yet I've never visited my country's "National Museum of the Filipino People". In fact, I've seen Singapore, Vientiane and Maldive's museum twice. The idea that something "will always be there" is contributory to such glaring malpractice. But I've finally remedied this when I accompanied a foreign guest to see it.

Museum tends to lull a lot of people to ennui. After all, these are matters buried in the past, and most people prefer to "move on" and get preoccupied with the "now". But there's glory in the fact that "the past" invariably teaches us something more than just the passing of years. Nothing is lost. How else do we make a better future if we don't take note of the mistakes of the past? Won't we be committing the same mistakes over and over again?

Manila's "National Museum of the Filipino People" does not disappoint. In fact, the only other museum that approximates this collection in my side of Asia is Jakarta's national museum. This is why I can't seem to understand the countless negative reviews from sites like Trip Advisor. The collection is considerable, although I have to mention the fact that the "works of art" (paintings, sculptures, etc.) are housed in a separate "museum" (National Art Gallery) a few blocks from here. While Singapore's museum is a tad better at presenting their rather scanty collection (they employ an interplay of lights, movement, audio-visual, etc. so there's an interactive vibe), our museum tends to present static displays, i.e. traditional presentation.

Yes, the Philippines used to be a part of the huge land mass that included countries like Malaysia, Thailand, Laos, Vietnam, but time eventually chipped it off and moved it southeastward to its own archipelagic mass. This separation has allowed us to acquire a national flavor that's quite distinct from its Asian neighbors. It has also made us vulnerable to siege and colonization: from the Spaniards, the Japanese, the Americans, the Dutch, the British, etc. Many of the paintings depict scenes from Spanish colonization. After all, they almost ruled over us with barbaric wonder for half a century.

This particular museum focuses on anthropology, archaeology and natural history. Depending on your interests, some sections tend to be more interesting than others. If you're predisposed to rock formations, animals, indigenous tribes, relics from ancient sites or shipwrecked galleons, the museum suffices.. Since the display is vast, we will spread our post into two parts. Part 2, which is more interesting, succeeds this post.

Sunday visits are free. Otherwise, a fee of PhP100 is collected at the entrance. No-flash photography is allowed inside. The museum is located in the vicinity of Intramuros and Luneta, along P. Burgos Drive, Rizal Park. It's open daily except Mondays, from 10AM to 5PM.

This is the Eye in the Sky!


For more information, please visit their website here:

http://www.nationalmuseum.gov.ph/

Part 2 http://eye-in-the-blue-sky.blogspot.com/2015/03/national-museum-of-filipino-people.html




Doctor Antonio de Morga, captain of the ship "San Diego". He wrote a book that detailed the sinking of the San Diego , published in Mexico in 1609.




























I have fascination with hallways.


















Anthropomorphic jar covers found in Ayub Cave in Pinul, Maitum, Saranggani. There are black and red paint on the head and neck.





Way out of the National Museum

You may want to check out the National Art Gallery as well:

http://eye-in-the-blue-sky.blogspot.com/2015/03/feast-your-eyes-on-masterpieces-at.html