The Search for Misokatsu in Nagoya, Japan

Traditionally, a Japanese meal starts with a miso soup served on a table. Miso is made from fermented soybeans and grain. In Nagoya, one of its traditional dishes is Misokatsu, a deep fried pork cutlet with red miso sauce, usually served on a sizzling plate. This was one of the three Nagoyan dishes we looked for in Nagoya, Japan's 3rd largest metropolitan conurbation, located in the Chubu region. Nagoya is the capital of Aichi Prefecture.

Unfortunately, Misokatsu wasn't that easy to find despite being supposedly popular. This was why we made it our mission to get one as we were about to leave the city. From Nagoya Station, I headed to Fushimi Station and walked from there. After checking out the grounds of Shirakawa Park, Nagoya City Art Museum and the Science Museum, which I found underlit at night, I crossed the highway and started asking around. 

MISOKATSU YABATON

A beautiful restaurant with inexpensive but delectable-looking dishes caught my attention at the street corner. I asked if they served Misokatsu. They didn't, but the owner patiently walked me to the next block, and gave instructions in English. Don't take too long, he said. The diner would close at 10. I was grateful for the help, then went my way. 

The walk took about 40 minutes, until I finally reached a brightly lit shop with no English sign, except that a "happy pig" was prominently on display on its ceiling. I took a chance, snuck my head in, and asked, "Misokatsu"? The lady server nodded and invited me in. I reached my destination.

Misokatsu Yabaton is a specialty restaurant serving Misokatsu. It's located at the Yaba-cho Honten (Main Shop) in the Osu area.

There was a queue inside. If you were a solo diner, you'd have to wait for a seat at the bar, which was full when I arrived. If you were with a group, you will be ushered upstairs. Tables are not made available for solo diners. I stood at the other side of the room and waited with two other guys for what seemed like 20 minutes.. When my turn came, my food was ready within a minute. 

I ordered Teppan Tonkatsu served over a fluffy bed of cabbage leaves. Serving was huge and the meat looked red; I could smell my dinner. It was savory and tender. I started to understand why the dish is a local favorite.

Misokatsu was supposedly concocted in 1947 and has since spread all over the city. It comes in a variety of preparations. 

Kurobota

The diner offers Misokatsu using a gourmet pork meat called Kurobota, or heritage black pigs known for their intensely flavorful meat and fat. Outside Japan, they're called "black hog pigs" or Berkshire Pigs (as they were believed to have been originally grown in England). Kurobota is considered the "Wagyu Beef of Pork", high-end pork with the price tag to match. I considered ordering the Kurobota Misokatsu, but eventually decided against it. I wasn't really that hungry. I just wanted a taste of Misokatsu.

That's one special dish ticked off.  

I had to stand on queue and wait for 20 minutes while solo diners finish their respective meals.

Misokatsu Yabaton Yaba-cho (Main Shop)

I wanted to have my dinner here but they didn't serve Misokatsu. The owner went out of his way to direct me towards Misokatsu Yabaton.

Outside Nagoya City Science Museum

Nagoya City Art Museum

I had to cross this highway from Shirakawa Park to look for Misokatsu at 9 PM.

#Nagoya   #misokatsu   #Japan   #foodporn   #dining   #Lifestyle

Of Ghost Towns and Butadon Pork - a Tokachi Specialty in Hirosaki (Aomori Prefecture)

A rice ball of shredded dry kelp and Hidaka Kelp for 228 yen.

I was lost for two hours, navigating the deserted streets of remote Hirosaki, this city at the northern end of Honshu, the Japanese mainland. From its castle grounds, I took the wrong exit and couldn't find my way back. What's worse, there were absolutely no one walking the streets. I was in a set of a post-apocalyptic movie. 

When it was dark and chilly, I finally stood in front of my hotel, Toyoko Inn Hirosaki. My stomach was doing somersaults. I knew I should nourish myself first because once inside the comforts of my room, I'd fall into a deep, dreamless slumber.

Fukufukuya Hirosaki Ekimae restaurant was conveniently beside my hotel's entrance. They had photos of food, including that of the Butadon Pork, a Tokachi specialty (from across the sea in alluring Hokkaido). Its Donburi Rice Bowl costs a measly 598 yen. I added a rice ball that looked interesting - Shredded Dry Kelp and Hidaka Kelp for 228 yen. 

Once inside, I took my shoes off, deposited them in a locker, then walked with my socks on to pick a table. It was either a tatami matted-cubicle or a tall table cubicle with sliding doors. I chose the latter so I could enjoy my Japanese dinner in private. Besides, the table across mine was having a rowdy good ole time. My order took a little longer than expected but I wasn't in a rush. 

As for the Butadon, the relation between Tokachi (a coastal subprefecture in Hokkaido) and pigs, according to its pioneer Benzo Yoda, has been longstanding and is considered indispensable to the lives of the locals. 

Little Piece of History from Botejyu: 

Butadon or pork bowl is a local specialty of Obihiro in Tokachi consisting of a bowl of rice topped with pork simmered in a mildly sweet sauce. Shuji Abe, a local restaurateur, was credited for creating the Butadon in 1933. 

Butadon is pork bowl which uses locally bred pork. It was conceived to provide accessible food for everyone to keep them warm during Tokachi’s brutal winters. When researching “what kind of flavor would be palatable to the mass”, they decided it should be soy sauce-based as this was close to the popular “Unadon (eel bowl)” taste that Japanese people love so much. There you go.

Kombu (Kelps)

Kelp harvest in Hokkaido. This photo only courtesy of www.japantimes.co.jp

Meanwhile, most of Japan's kombu is harvested in Hokkaido, accounting for around 90% of all production. 

The sea ice that drifts over to Hokkaido from Siberia is rich in minerals and provides an environment that produces delicious kombu. 

Hidaka-Kombu is good for both making broth and eating (simmered in soy sauce). It is soft, easy to boil and tasty. It is also known as mitsuishi-kombu. Fukufukuya provided me the opportunity to taste Hidaka Kelp. 

How authentic can you get.

Fukufukuya Hirosaki Ekimae restaurant

Natural Hidaka konbu from Hokkaido. They are stewed and eaten. This photo only from global.rakutten.com.