Iloilo City - Introduction to A Western Visayan Sojourn

Iloilo is Panay Island’s little gem. Steep in history, the uneven terrain of this Western Visayan province beckons with subtle seduction. In fact, nothing about Iloilo is outright impressive. But it charms in a slow burn a fuego lento. With a population of barely 1.8 million, the province is a bastion of tropical weather, the waters from the testy Pacific is mostly subdued by the eastern island of Guimaras blocking off direct monsoon effect, rendering a collected demeanor in terms of weather or waves much like its people: calm, soft-spoken, hospitable. Where else does the concept of “palangga” come from, but the moderate temperament of the Ilonggos, di bala?   

This photo only courtesy of wikipedia's Eugene Villar.

Iloilo City, though independent from the political assignations of the Iloilo province, remains the capital. The city is a habitable place for its 450,000 inhabitants. If Cebu City and Davao City were a relaxing alternative to the congestive bustle of Metro Manila, Iloilo City chills like a delectable popsicle on a blistering summer day. A regular commute in a sedan-style passad jeepney between 8AM to 3 PM will find you riding a public transport by your lonesome, as was my experience hopping between centro and Jaro, then again from Jaro to Molo, in very inexpensive P7 to P8 point-to-point fare.

DISTRICTS

The city is subdivided into 7 geographical districts, spread across 180 barangays with interesting names from Katilingban to Kauswagan, Maria Clara to Maria Cristina, Edganzon to Divinagracia, and tongue twisters like Tap-oc, So-oc, Ungca, Bolilao and Calahunan. But what’s more interesting than these government units are the 7 districts: (1) the City Proper has the most number of barangays (county) as well as the urban sprawl; (2) Jaro, (3) Molo, (4) La Paz, (5) Lapuz, (6) Mandurriao which is home to an SM Mall, the beguiling riverside Promenade, and the sophisticated leisure conglomerate called Smallville where bars and high-end restaurants hold festive nightly sprees and parties; and lastly (7) Villa Arevalo, a coastal settlement circa 1600s.

What does a visit entail? What should one expect? By whimsical fancy, I booked a flight to Iloilo on my way to Davao. Though I have been to Iloilo a few years ago, it was strictly for work. And there was hardly any touristic activity involved. I had ready rides from and to the airport, a hotel, and some people guiding me around the work place. I wasn't able to see a single place so it might as well have been a figment of the imagination, right? With that in mind, I did a fast research and read up, printed maps straight from the internet, oriented myself with the area surrounding my hotel, and started a mental checklist. Lo and behold, it was turning out more exciting than the nonchalant manner of hasty booking.

To answer the aforementioned question, I had to delve into a little historical backgrounder to put some perspective into this trip.

While the documented annals of Iloilo started in 1582 with the founding of “La Villa Rica de Arevalo”, now a coastal district of the city, stories abound regarding ten Bornean chieftains called “datu” in the oft forgotten 1300’s as they flee from a despotic ruler. Headed by Datu Puti, they sailed the uncharted waters until they reached the Panay Island. They were met by a friendly tribe of Aetas headed by a hospitable Datu Marikudo.

Seeing the possibilities of the place - and with virtually no place to call "home", the datus made a deal with the local chieftain, purchasing most of the lowlands in exchange of a golden salakot (a gold hat). To sweeten the deal, they threw in a golden necklace for the lovely Queen Maniwantiwang. The datus divided Panay among themselves while Datu Puti decided to venture north. Meanwhile, the aetas (or “ati”) headed to the mountains. The eastern flatland was handed to Datu Paiburong who named his conclave “Irong Irong”, which eventually evolved into what it’s called now.

HISTORICAL PARALLELISM

So goes the story of the purchase of Panay, which should be instructive of the validity of the 1878 pajak ("lease") with a handwritten deal between the Sultans of Sulu and a British company spearheaded by Austrian Gustavus Baron de Overbeck and Englishman Alfred Dent with Malaysia. The deed provided for an annual rental. Now, if you go by common sense, a seemingly unending yearly payment to the sultanate of Sulu from Malaysia should underline a continuous obligation that doesn't seem to have a date of completion. Isn't that “rental”? Otherwise, if it were payment for full autonomy, it should involve a bulk payment. The aetas might as well reclaim the whole Panay Island from the Bornea chieftains after, say, a decade or two if they were merely given a hat and a necklace. But in the olden times, a gentleman’s handshake was valid enough. Apparently, this isn't so.

But I am digressing. Anyhow, the events surrounding the Sabah conflict is contentious. While the Kirams’ claim could be valid, it shouldn't have employed undue violence. These days, only idiots resort to war. And Malaysia, having been left to exercise their sovereignty over Sabah for decades now, have the right to protect themselves.

Legaspi

Sometime in 1560, Miguel Lopez de Legaspi (left) set foot and founded a settlement in Ogtong, now Oton (a community along the highway en route to the town of Miag-ao).

However, this settlement was punctuated by repeated invasions and blood-soaked raids by the Moros, the British and the Dutch. All these resulted into a resettlement that had to strategically move eastward to where it is now - by the mouth of Iloilo River. In 1581, Spanish Governor General Ronquillo de Penalosa named this settlement “La Villa Rica de Arevalo”, Iloilo’s first capital and one of the first places in the Philippines to be named after a Spanish town, now incorporated as a district of Iloilo City.

This clues us in on what to expect in Iloilo: Spanish churches rising in every town, sun kissed beaches and, of late, malls, bars and restaurants. What's more interesting, the Ilonggos have taken to the color of white... painting every edifice, pedestals, amphitheaters and plazas in immaculate splendor. Moreover, Grecian sculptures of Athena, et.al. stand proud beside saints and heroes like Graciano Lopez Jaena (an Ilonggo, right) and Jose Rizal (the country’s national hero).

LANGUAGE

Most people speak Hiligaynon which others, like myself, refer as "Ilonggo", a descriptive term referring to (1) a person who hails from Iloilo and (2) the regional language. Hiligaynon seems more appropriate, as people from, say South Cotabato, also speak the same language, and they're not exactly Ilonggos (i.e. they don't come from Iloilo). The two terms are interchangeable. 

When asked the difference between the two terms, my taxi driver could only say yes to both: that he speaks Ilonggo and he speaks Hiligaynon, with hardly a difference. What's clear here: Hiligaynon and Ilonggo share distinct similarities - as well as differences - with the Visayan language, thus a "dialect". Regardless, the people here also understand Tagalog and, like most Filipinos, English.

I used to think that tourists use Iloilo as take-off point to the rustic charm of, and the powdery sands of Guimaras and Boracay, respectively. But I realized that Iloilo is replete with historical reminders from the country's colonial past. This is evident in the almost-rundown buildings of Calle Real, and elsewhere around the province. 

As earlier mentioned, the beauty of Iloilo City isn't blatantly obvious. One has to diligently find his way around to find them, like what a treasure hunter does for his precious jewels. Once you find these gems, you'd want to keep coming back for a second look... and a third.

Up next: Arrival in Iloilo City.

This is the Eye in the Sky!

Swim, Dine and Relax at D' Japanese Tunnel Resort - Davao Sights

Davao City, Philippines - Aside from visiting the Japanese Tunnel (circa 1942), there are other activities worth partaking at D' Japanese Tunnel Family Resort and Restaurant. After all, this was really designed as a resort with 41 rooms perched on a hill beside a highway; a restaurant with rates and entries that adjust to your budget; and a swimming pool. The place is located a bit far from the city center, and commuter jeeps are almost nil, but the security guard can always hail a taxi at any time. If I was a backpacker with a myriad of activities and a gamut of places to visit, I probably wouldn't stay here. But if I had a family in need of bonding - or that romantic couple who doesn't have to wander, this would be an ideal place.  

ROOM RATES (as of this writing)

Room variant is as follows: Standard, Deluxe, Super Luxe and Condotel. Standard rooms are further divided into single (P970), twin single (P1460), triple single (P2180) and quadruple single (P2550). Deluxe rooms are either matrimonial (P2160) and twin matrimonial (P3000). Super Luxe Room is just twin matrimonial at P3360. Condotel has a suite room pegged at P3960. Extra bed will cost you P400, while an extra person is worth P350. 

Their brochure claims to offer these amenities, facilities and services: AC rooms, mini-ref, hot and cold shower, cable TV, veranda over the pool on selected rooms, 24-hour room service, restaurant and sushi bar, dining and living room in their suites, and, more importantly, airport transfer.

Tunnel tour, as we've mentioned from our last post, is P50 for adults and P20 for children. Entry to the pool is P100, which seems pricey. During our visit, they had a promo - 2 pool entry tickets for every purchase of P1,000 at the restaurant. I wasn't there to swim. In fact, much of this visit was out of a whim and was, thus unplanned. This meant that this particular pool visit cost me P100 - good thing I was the only one there.

The swimming pool has section for adults and children. The southern enclave as well as the northern end are for children, and are thus shallow. There are slides and playhouses around. You could also order food and drinks from the restaurant.  

I had my late lunch at their restaurant which, initially felt a bit intimidating. This seemed like the fine dining kind - with folded napkins, shiny glass wares, glistening floors, chandelier, and uniformed waiters. What's more interesting is: they actually cater to your available budget. If you look at the menu (below): they offer set meals for big groups; you can also order a la carte, but they even have rice toppings at very affordable price. 

I ordered adobo and, just for variety, a cheese omelet. I am not picky where food is concerned. Most times, I am happy with egg, cheese, pineapple, and chicken or pork with rice. As I've mentioned before, food has never been a big consideration in my travels. I don't visit places for their food. I also ordered durian shake which wasn't the best we've had. The durian used came from those bottled durian jams so you see the scoop of jam floating on your glass, instead of the freshly osterized durian. Food, however, was tasty and beautifully prepared. Service was impeccable: the waiters were fast and courteous.

This  visit was satisfactory because we were able to visit a 1942 Japanese tunnel, ate a sumptuous lunch and perambulate around the swimming pool.

D' Japanese Tunnel Family Resort and Restaurant is located at the Diversion Road (the road to the airport), officially called Balusong Extension, Hilcrest Subdivision in the district of Matina. For reservations, call 299-0975 or 295-0678 to 79. Visit their Facebook page at djapanesetunnel@ymail.com. The tunnel is open from 9 AM to 8 PM. Please direct your queries to the aforementioned numbers. I am NOT in anyway associated with this establishment.

This is the Eye in the Sky!

The Japanese Tunnel visit (photos and details) here - http://eye-in-the-blue-sky.blogspot.com/2013/05/japanese-tunnel-entralling-piece-from.html

Hotel lobby. This is where you'll pay for your swimming pool or tunnel tickets.

Painting at the lobby.

Restaurant and sushi bar

A well near the restaurant entrance.

Durian shake. Notice the spoon of durian jam.

Menu. The menu says that "prices may change without prior notice". I could understand "availability" changing without prior notice, but "prices"? Once you sit on your restaurant chair, you have to have that "prior notice" before ordering, don't you?

Hotel and Japanese tunnel.

Another Resort and Japanese Tunnel are found nearby - http://eye-in-the-blue-sky.blogspot.com/2014/04/bridging-fun-education-history-at-gap.html (Gap Farming Resort)

Japanese Tunnel - Enthralling Piece From Davao's Dark Past

Story goes: Way before the invasion of the Japanese in the Philippines in 1941, there were itinerant Japanese forces who successfully found their way on the shores of east Mindanao in 1934 - seven years before the obloquious occupation. They turned the locals they met into slaves who were then forced to dig out tunnels not dissimilar to the Cu Chi Tunnels of Vietnam (extensively constructed in 1968). When the Japanese soldiers left the islands in the mid-forties, this tunnel was abandoned. This crawlway, far more spacious than Vietnam's, has (obviously) stood the test of time.

The area was owned by the Lims, a Filipino-Chinese family (the owners of RDL Beauty/Whitening Products) who has since branched out into beauty products and hotels. They eventually considered building another hotel in the area; one that would attract tourists, and what better come-on than an authentic pre-war tunnel, right?

After several preparative measures, the Japanese Tunnel was opened to public in 2001. With an affordable entrance fee of P50, who would want to miss a visit? A ticket will get you a short tour with an annotating guide. This tour is actually a short one considering the length of the available tunnel - 150 meters!

According to the guide, the cave stretches 800 meters eastward, but visitors are allowed to visit 150 meters because of an earthquake in 2010 that caused the caving in of some portions of the cave. The height of the "cave" (tunnel) starts with 9 feet then as you head further east slopes down into 5 feet. Sometime in the late afternoon way into the night, the tunnel gets filled with fog (which we saw at 2 PM). It can get smoldering when the sun is up, thus ventilation is provided inside as well as adequate lighting. The floor is mostly even, but some portions could get slippery as water actually seeps from the earthen ceiling.

Compared to the Cu Chi Tunnels, these tunnels here are a ballroom. There are side tributaries: one has a replica of a Golden Buddha statue where gold bullion used to thrive (supposedly a few of Yamashita's displaced riches); there's a prison cell with too narrow concavity, I would hardly fit inside - but was said to house 3-4 "comfort" women; a "wishing cave" of sorts where coins are seen scattered on the floor. But why would I wish on a cave? Curiously, a lot have wished on it. There's another tributary with a table and statues of two Japanese soldiers sitting in front of each other, while another soldier is standing guard nearby.

There are no stalactites and stalagmites here because manpower dug this tunnel; this isn't a cave. But there are birds - swallows and swifts - living at the ridges of the ceiling.

"We harvest saliva of these birds and use them as delicacy at our restaurant," informed the guide.

True enough, bird's saliva is used for building nests (they're thick and they dry quickly). More importantly, they are used as culinary ingredients. They're supposedly prestigious and very expensive. Bird's Nest soup is in fact one of my all-time favorites.

There is a flowing stream at the side of the tunnels. This cold stream comes from Mount Apo and drains into a 30-foot well located midway into the cave.

UNLIKELY HISTORICAL PAGE

The guide informed me that the remaining 650 meters of the tunnel is being "developed" into a museum. It is scheduled for opening this August 2013. To be quite honest, I have reservations about the early part of annotated history: Japanese forces in Davao in 1934?

During that time, US President Roosevelt just signed the Tydings-McDuffie Law which underlined the independence of the Philippines from the Americans. Meanwhile, the Japanese were reeling from a typhoon. They were also dealing with a political scandal involving manipulations of stocks and the market that eventually brought down the administration of Prime Minister Makoto - called Teijin Incident! An invasion at that timeline is probably farthest from their minds. Thus - an early "invasion" is highly unlikely. Someone sure had a flair for fictionalized drama. Why? If you look at the label just outside the tunnel (by the swimming pool), the sign actually says 1942, not 1934. The guides might as well fine tune their own history, right?

If the tunnel doesn't satisfy you, the compound has a fine dining restaurant, a hotel and a swimming pool (P100/person or 1 free ticket for every purchase of P1,000 from the restaurant/bar). We sampled their food, but we'll have that on our next post.

D' Japanese Tunnel Family Resort and Restaurant is located at the Diversion Road (the road to the airport), officially called Balusong Extension, Hilcrest Subdivision in the district of Matina. For reservations, call 299-0975 or 295-0678 to 79. Visit their Facebook page at djapanesetunnel@ymail.com. The tunnel is open from 9 AM to 8 PM. Please direct your queries to the aforementioned numbers. I am NOT in anyway associated with this establishment.

This is the Eye in the Sky!

Entrance at the mouth of the tunnel.

Swallows and their nests at the tunnel ceiling.

30-foot well (left)

This area houses a replica of the Golden Buddha and its bullions of gold bars.

In a huddle.

A concavity became prison for (supposedly) 3 to 4 "comfort" women.

Nope, that's not my camera. It's a foggy area.

A wishing cell. People drop coins and make wishes here, which is odd. There's nothing vaguely poetic or dramatic to turn it into a magical lamp of wishes.

People wish anyway. Notice the coins on the ground.

Soldier guards over the coins.

A soldier counts the coins (above and below).

Same way out (above and below).

Entrance to the Japanese tunnel. At the background is the hotel.

It says 1942, not 1934.

Gap Farming Resort nearby also has its own swimming pool and Japanese Tunnel. Entrance is a measly PhP40. Check out the place here: http://eye-in-the-blue-sky.blogspot.com/2014/04/bridging-fun-education-history-at-gap.html