Burpppp...! - More Gastronomic Delights from Vietnam and Cambodia

These are just some gastronomic delights that I haven't posted yet!


Yangchau and Spring Roll - beside Ben Thanh Market, Saigon.

Their halo-halo at VnD 10,000 - mas masarap ang atin! (Ben Thanh Market)

A coke bottle for someone. (I have canned coke too but I can't seem to rotate it. :-< ) Hanoi

My ice cream cup at Tokimex - $1.25, Siem Reap, Cambodia

Fruits of the season include pomelo, atis, papaya, banana, longans, plums, macopa and dragon fruit. Ha Long Bay.

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Crossing Mocbai-Bavet Border

I have to admit I had lots of apprehension crossing the Mocbai-Bavet border to Cambodia. Land border-crossing is never my favorite.
(I remembered taking the night train from Paris to Madrid. For the convenience of the passengers, a train steward would take our passports before bedtime – so that we can supposedly enjoy out cramped couches without being bothered with the immigration formalities! Meanwhile, at a particular city in Spain, the train would make a stop. The last 5 cars will be detached from the front cars that will then proceed to Madrid’s notorious Atocha station. I was pins and needles thinking, hmmm, what if they leave my passport behind while I was enjoying a sound sleep? What if I hopped on the wrong section?)
HORROR STORIES

Though my itinerary’s been planned, it took all my guts to finally buy a bus ticket to Cambodia. I also knew that once I buy my $20 ticket, there’s no turning back. Would be all-systems-go from there. If I wasn’t alone traveling, it would be a no-brainer, but traveling alone is trouble waiting to happen. I have read soooo many horror stories of border crossing from Lonely Planet to Fodor to web/blog entries.

One article mentioned that it’s a lot easier to get out of Vietnam than get right back in, and this statement actually echoed persistently in my mind. Wikipedia says, and I quote, "Immigration is notoriously strict." Not only that, some of them would allegedly ask for imaginary tariffs, currency exchange that's way off the market rate, etc. (Although such things were more common in less-visited borders, i.e. O Smach (Cam)-Chong Jom (Thai), Prum (Cam)-Daun Lem (Thai), and even the regularly traversed Poipet-Koh Kong border from Thailand.)

Another source of concern is, I have never met a Pinoy who has crossed the border (there should be thousands now). Common sense dictates though that Pinoys must have passed this way before. Nevertheless, it didn't offer relief. Assumptions never do! Most Pinoys I know “fly”; and those who do not, have passports other than a Philippine passport. Since Pinoys are visa-free, I reckon it would be easier for me than other backpackers who had to pay $25 passport processing fee on site. So…

I mustered enough courage and off I went. John Williams’ “Jaws Theme” was humming in my head.

“GOOD GIRLS”
I was ready as early as 5AM. I went down and didn’t have the heart to wake the lady sleeping at the foyer. I wanted to go out and look for food, though I wasn’t hungry. A nearby go-go bar was still blaring loud garage music. I turned toward DeTham and got offered, “Good girls! Good girls!” Some Caucasians were already carrying their Vietnamese girls. It’s really the same everywhere – Paris or Luxembourgh, Patpong or Jakarta. Although I have to admit that this trade isn’t as pronounced in Vietnam as it is elsewhere. Further on, some more guys offered their business, “Cheap girls, very pretty!” or “Nice girls work hard for you!” What a way to start my morning. One was tugging at my sleeve, pointing to a girl at a dark corner. She can't be over 16. Geesh! She was licking a lollipop. If that was meant as a tease, it looked awkward and silly to me.
I was told that my bus would pick me up at 5:30AM. Someone finally came at 6. We rode a car to where the Sapaco bus was parked. Our baggages were deposited at the backseat, and I took my seat 2 rows in front of the bags. Three Canadians were seated in front of me; an old French guy infront of them. The whole row of seats was all mine so I was pleased with myself. Ten minutes into the departure, the driver’s assistant started giving away a packed meal (ham sandwich and a bottle of water) which was amazingly part of the $20.

Our SAPACO bus - airconditioned, spacious, and only 60% occupied

“NEAR , FAR, WHEREVER YOU ARE…”
The road we travelled is well maintained, so it was one comfortable ride, except for the music that kept playing during the whole trip. I mean, how much more can you take of Celine Dion’s “My Heart Will Go On” played 6x – it sure made me wanna hit some icebergs and sink the Titanic.
I amused myself by observing the scene as it constantly changed. Half way into the trip, we reached the province of Tay Ninh (famed for their local festivities), then, the border town of Mocbai. Our passports were collected ($25 fees were also collected from the other foreigners who needed visa, and none from me) by the bus assistant, and I relaxed. Everyone seemed so. The border building is an imposing structure. We got off our bus, made a queue at the border’s immigration counter, and waited for 10-15 minutes. Then our passports were returned to us. No interviews. We walked through the counter, passed a small duty-free shop; showed our passport to the immigration police at the exit, and went out. The very same bus was waiting for us at the other side.



Border immigration counter (the 3 Canadians at the center)

BRIBES ANYONE?

Now here’s what I observed. As we got back to our seats, the driver and his assistants deposited loads of bottled water at the police quarters from each side. Bribe? Could be. This would facilitate a faster transfer. No more manual checking of baggages- as that would take forever. Every tourist should take a Sapaco bus when crossing the border to avoid transfering to a different bus at the other side of the border, and you didn’t have to disembark your baggages anymore. That said, I settled back to my seat.
Whew!! That was easy!

The road: Vietnam Side (Mocbai, Tay Ninh)



RURAL KAMPUCHEA
The next kilometers (a constituent of the province of Svay Rieng) were lined by big KTV establishments, casinos, and massage parlors; many of these places serve allegedly as prostitution fronts, much like the same establishments in Haiphong City (Vietnam’s 3rd biggest city) south of Hanoi.

It was a good moment to observe local color. The roadsides were underwater - farmlands, marshes and wetlands - water hyacinths of wild pink, lilies in white and purple lotuses were abloom. 75% of Cambodia lives off farming.

I took note of the town names as we passed them by - Chiphou, Prasot, then the provincial capital of Svay Rieng’s imposing building; Kraul Kor, then NEAK LOEUNG, where we stopped for a bit.
Now that was a treat!

The road: Cambodian side (Bavet, Svay Rieng)


Our bus got on a ferry to cross the river. I have been wanting to cruise the Mekong River. I regretted not having had enough time in HCMC for a Mekong Cruise (it was 2 hours away, and I'd need an extra full day to do so). MEKONG at no extra cost! I got off the bus for some fresh air as we sailed the Mekong. 15 minutes later, we were on land again.
As we reached Banteay Dek, the roads got a little rough. Potpoles abound and the last hour to Phnom Penh got a bit uncomfortable. I wasn’t complaining though.





Cambodian Immigration Police

Update:

Here's my 2nd crossing in the same border, but going the opposite direction a year after (2008):

http://eye-in-the-blue-sky.blogspot.com/2008/10/phnom-penh-to-saigon-crossing-bavet.html

How Much Things Cost in Saigon

A Random List

Postcard – at Bui Vien, VnD 2,500 (P7); they get pricier along Pham Ngu Lao and at the malls, and these are amazing postcards- the ones that cost PhP50 here in Manila

Postage- VnD 7,000 each (PhP20) to postcards within Asia, Australia, Belgium, China, and the US

Bottled water (Aquafina is a common brand) – VnD 4,000 (PhP11.50); VnD2,700 in regular stores (PhP7.50)

Coke in Can- VnD 6,000 (PhP17)

Dinner at Lotteria (their McDonalds/Jollibee)- VnD31,000 (PhP96) for Chicken Meal with
Lipton Tea

Haircut- VnD 15,000 (PhP42) at the regular barber shopTaxi from Tan Son Nhat to my hotel – VnD 96,000 (PhP 269)

Taxi ride from Tan Son Nhat to my guesthouse (2nd arrival)- VnD 74,000 (PhP207). Gave him VnD 100,000. Was just grateful for not haggling with him re: use of meter, etc. - and for a safe arrival.

Bus ride from Tan Son Nhat to Pham Ngulao/De Tham street (1st arrival) – VnD 3,000 (PhP 8.50)


Sharon fruit – VnD 25,000/kilo (5 pieces of crunchy heaven) (This is a personal favorite. Also known as Persimmon in London, I used to regularly buy loads of persimmon -along with cherries, apples and plums- along Kilburn in north London… it was staple for almost a year. -
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sharon_fruit ( I didn't know that its local variant is the mabolo.) In Manila, it costs PhP50 ($1) a piece.

An order of spring roll (a local favorite) – VnD35,000 (PhP 98)

An order of yangchau fried rice at a stall beside Ben Thanh – VnD35,000 (PhP 98)

Ca phe sua da (iced coffee with milk) in regular eateries – VnD 5,000 (PhP14) to 15,000 ( I paid 20K at Pho)

Pho (noodle soup) in regular eateries – VnD 11,000 – 25,000 (Was telling my part-vietnamese friend and she had to correct my pronunciation coz I kept saying foe...foe)

Pinoy LaTondena Rum gold, 750 ml – VnD 65,000 (PhP 182) - can you believe it? hehe

DSL line - $20 a month

Internet use for 1 hour – VnD 4,000 (PhP 11.50)

Khoai tay chin (potato chips) at the market – VnD 14,000 (PhP 39)

Ze om (motor taxis) – VnD 5,000-15,000

Omelette with coffee at a pricey restaurant in Pham Ngu Lao – VnD 40,000 ( PhP 121)

This is the Eye in the Sky.

Up next:

Border crossing and my heart-pounding, exhilirating, hilarious adventures in Kampuchea, err...Cambodia

Saigon 04

There is a park (photo below) along Pham Ngu Lao where, in the early morning, schools of dragonflies fly around (and there's no pond nearby). This is a cool place to relax and observe the locals go about their daily routine. People jog around; a good number of the seniors do their tai chis in the late afternoon. Young guys play our very own sipa takraw. This park stretches at a part of Pham Ngu Lao, Ben Thanh Market, and some upscale hotels like New World Hotel Saigon. Lovers cuddle on parked motorcycles.

Along Saigon River.

Tan Son Nhat International. Papuntang CR... hehe

On my last night in Saigon (my 3rd check in at Phan Lan), I got lucky to have the last remaining room- at the 8th floor!!! And there's no elevator here. After depositing your shoes at the foot of the stairs (they won't allow you to bring them upstairs), you walk up a cramped winding stair. This is the view (photo above). Room rate - $12, with breakfast! Of course, there are cheaper rooms with no airconditioning and probably a shared bathroom, but this place is very safe, very clean, and very comfortable. Moreover, the owner took care of every travel transfers I wanted, including my bus ride to Cambodia, my taxi ride to Tan Son Nhat, and an assured reservation upon my every return. She was very hospitable to me, probably coz I am Asian. She would share her thoughts: "Hanoians don't like to smile the way Saigon locals do." - or "The road to Phnom Penh is good, although I hate getting a visa just to cross a nearby border." These were insights that I appreciated. There are only 4 countries which are visa-free in Vietnam - Singapore, Malaysia, Laos and good ole Philippines. Not even for their neighbor Cambodia!

So, Pinoys should take advantage of such privilege.



Addendum:

I've visited Saigon and Hanoi several times already since my "first visit" so you can check them out.

Saigon 02 - Of Touts, Rigged Meters and Lethal Road Crossings

EXPLORING HCMC

Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC) is Vietnam’s Manila. This is where rural folks seek greener pastures. Saigon, as most locals still call it, is a tourist haven, a backpacker’s playground. In fact, tourism is their main industry. Motorcycle taxis called “xe om” are everywhere, waiting for customers. I prefer to walk, exploring areas wherever my feet would lead me… Ben Thanh Market is within walking distance, so is Saigon Square.

I've never tried riding a motorbike before, thus riding at the back of one is a heady rush, and one that I suggest any tourist should try. It costs about 15,000 dong ($0.80/PhP 37) within the tourist belt, although you have to remind your driver to drive “slow”. He will always ask for VnD20,000 but just look elsewhere if he won't haggle. There are plenty of them in every corner who would be glad to take your 15,000 dong.


Airconditioned taxis are also an affordable option. Flag down starts with 6,000 dong, which is very cheap. If you’re not into motorcycles, by all means, hail a cab! Tell them, “Meter!” and make sure that they agree first! Getting a cab from Tan Son Nhat to the city center shouldn’t go above $6 (which is so far the cheapest within Asia, I believe). My hotel arranged for my taxi ride to the airport, which was a measly VnD 96,000 ($5/Php 237). Green bus 512 is NOT always available. During my 2nd and 3rd arrival at the Tan Son Nhat, it took me an hour to wait and realize that Bus 512 wasn't coming, so I took the taxi. I think 512 stops operating from 5PM onwards, so I guess I was just first-time lucky to have found them upon my first arrival. Cyclos are another option when you’re not in a rush, but considering the constant swerving of motorcycles that spring out from all directions, I wouldn’t recommend it. If accidents happen, the passenger gets hit first!





A view from Leloi Street

Friendly girls in their ao dais

ANNOYANCES

An Austrian national had this to say: “I certainly wasn’t prepared for the tumultuous assault on the senses that it turned out to be.”

On my first day, after checking in at my guesthouse, I decided to take a leisurely walk from Bui Vien to Pham Ngu Lao. And my gosh! I have never been met by so many touts offering their xe om – and I do NOT look Caucasian at all!!! I had earlier decided to be nice, but realized that it takes all of your resolve to do this when you are persistently dogged around by someone you politely said NO to. One guy offered his motor, and though I kept walking and smiled with a NO, he walked with me for 4 whole blocks! He seemed desperate but much as I sympathize with him, I hardly seem myself as the answer to their financial woes, and it was starting to get annoying. So I decided to get inside a restaurant called PHO – and, in the process, discovered one of the most heavenly Vietnamese meals I’ve had in my entire life. I ordered a pho ga at VnD 31K (PhP87) – which is pricey, in Saigon standards. I also tried their Ca phe sua da – a very strong and very sweet iced coffee - at 20,000 dong (PhP57), two items on my gastronomic checklist.

A map at the beautiful post office, where you can also place international/local calls

How to spot a rigged meter? Well, the good ones are placed above the dashboard, easily visible from your seat at the back. These are also sealed by a transparent plastic cover. If these meters are placed way down below, and don’t have a case, chances are, they are rigged.

Main Post Office

Touts are a dime a dozen in Vietnam. In fact, in Hanoi, while I was walking around the Hoan Kiem Lake, Ms. America suddenly shouted (top of her lungs) with enough conviction to stop their Iraqi occupation - “I DO NOT NEED OR WANT ANYTHING FROM YOU, THANK YOU!” to a guy who was selling postcards and maps! People stared at her with disapproved glances for breaking her cool in public! It is just not worth losing your temper in public.

Another source of stress in HCMC is the traffic, where crossing the street is a death-defying endeavor. I am NOT exaggerating. But after a while though, I think I learned the art of street crossing. You see, if HCMC has a population of 10 million, half of them owns one (or even two) motorcycle.

The motorcycle is the vietnamese’s version of a Pinoy’s cellphone. It is their prized possession, as i was told that it takes them a quarter of their lifetime to pay for one. (This is an insight from a Perth gentleman who has made Saigon his temporary home for the last 2 years.) At night, when the guesthouse is in deep slumber, you will find your hotel foyer subbing as a garage for these motorcycles.

LETHAL CROSSING

I realized that, on crossing the street, the technique is to cross with confidence and an assured, constant pace. Do not make sudden stops! Do not hesitate in the middle of a walk… and you will find the motorbikes flowing around you. And, yes, don't forget to pray for your dear life! Hehe

This is the Eye in the Sky!