Showing posts with label Vang Vieng. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Vang Vieng. Show all posts

Tuesday, August 5, 2014

The Cute Puppy From Vang Vieng (Laos)


ລູກໝາ

The second time I visited Vang Vieng - population 25,000 - was on the month of September. I was curious if the sedate atmosphere was still there: backpackers too lazy to think outside alcohol; floating along the Song River on a tube, a dash of hashish in the fray, and just letting their hair down. I opted to stay this time at one of the riverside hotels which was far nicer than my previous Vang Vieng guesthouses. How times have changed indeed. I don't scrimp too much anymore since I've learned to get comfortable with the monetary exchanges and foreign expenditures. 


I had to cross the suspension bridge again, pay a minimal fee for doing so, and headed to the village just across. This part of town was quiet and fewer tourists stay in this area. Then I encountered a playful puppy who, after a few coaxing, walked over and had his belly scratched! It was the cutest thing.

While I adore dogs (I grew up with half a dozen dogs roaming inside the house at anytime during my childhood), I have learned to steer clear from them during travels because some of them aren't the warmest creatures, even without provocation. And Laos, particularly Savannakhet (south of Vientiane), has oodles of these unfriendly strays.

Meanwhile, Vang Vieng, situated between Viantiane and Luang Prabang, is gradually losing its relaxed atmosphere with the influx of more tourists. In a couple of years, commercialism would totally pop the surreal riverside bubble. Isn't this sad? Probably not for the locals who will eventually benefit from this steady parade of fun lovers.

This is the Eye in the Sky!



Nam Song - the Song River - and Vang Vieng's dramatic Karst Mountains.

Thursday, August 7, 2008

The Easy Ride from Vang Vieng to Vientiane

One of the several footbridges crossing the Song River.


COMMOTION

There was a commotion somewhere. Raised voices were provoking each other. I half-consciously reached for my watch. 3 AM. Some people just don’t carry their alcohol well. The rest of Vang Vieng was still dreaming their dreams. The disruptive voices went on for quite sometime making it hard to get right back to sleep. I must have dozed back to a slumber and awoke half past 5. Still too early to be gallivanting about. I sat by my window. From a distance, thick cloud formations encumbered the limestone mountains, while fog swathed the town below like careless brush strokes from a painting.
LEAVING BEAUTIFUL


An hour later, I’ve packed my stuff. I found myself walking the almost deserted high street. I saw a jumbo and commissioned the driver to pick me up from my guesthouse and take me to the bus station at 8AM. He nodded but there was a hint of hesitation in his face. He might not show up, I told myself. I walked towards the river. The pay booth for the Song Bridge was already open. I sat in the middle of the suspension bridge, feet hanging down towards the balmy river. I looked down and thought, boy, it’s a long fall down there. I took a sip from my bottled water and realized something. In all its austere simplicity and laidback composure, Vang Vieng is undoubtedly one of the most naturally beautiful places on earth! There was a regretful persuasion leaving all this awesome beauty behind.


A THAI IN MALAPASCUA


At 8:30 AM, I found myself at the back of a different jumbo (tuktuk) ride along with 2 burly Thai ladies. Yes, burly! Mas malaki pa’ng katawan kesa akin. They were on their way to Luang Prabang. The stockier one told me that she has visited Malapascua Island in North Cebu through the direct Bangkok-Cebu flights of Cebu Pacific. Her eyes gleamed with excitement as she recalled an enjoyable holiday. It was the only place she’s seen of the Philippines. I haven’t been to Malapascua although I’ve thought of the possibilities. One day soon. I am not gonna be a stranger in my own country (and I proudly am not). 

TWO STATIONS


At 9, I was the first passenger waiting for my VIP bus to Vientiane. I presented my bus voucher then I was lead to a minibus. Alone! I asked the driver if I was the only passenger. He nodded. It was highly unlikely, but I really was the only passenger on board, and my minibus pulled out from the station. Sometimes, even when you ask around, you’re still left with a lot of uncertainty. It turns out, I was being transferred to a different bus station that services southbound destinations like Vientiane. The first station was for northbound travels. It was a smaller station in the middle of godknowswhere. There was hardly anything there. No stores. No shops. Just an unfinished house being constructed beside the small station building. The ground was laid with pebbles that made an annoying noise when you step on them. An empty bus was already waiting. I learned from the only person there that the driver was still on his way. Boy, it was 10 PM already. In trickles, the same minibus that took me there brought groups of passengers. Some of these idiot passengers took forever to get to the station, delaying our 10 AM schedule! I took the very first seat, just beside the door. I felt I deserved it, at least for my punctuality. Right across me was a couple with a southern accent. At 10:30 AM, our full-packed bus leaves for the capital – and I can’t wait! This was going to be an easy 3-4 hour ride.


TURN THE RADIO ON

It was a pleasant ride on good roads. I was content just listening to the American couple beside me who was busy annotating what they see along the road, including the types of vehicles, a spectacular waterfall from a mountain, the rows after rows of pineapples being sold, and one of the darkest cauliflower clouds I’ve ever seen. It was a treat listening to them. It’s just like turning your radio on, listening to self-absorbed commentators. They seemed interested on what the other one had to say. A couple like that will never see boredom in their relationship. Not long after, we had a 10-minute stopover. Then there was a heavy downpour! It felt like all of the heavens banging down our bus. And we could hardly see anything from the wind shield! I occupied myself playing Jason Mraz wistfully singing “Mr. Curiosity” over and over. The mood of that song lingers like a sad, albeit hopeful tune. At 1 PM, the medium-sized buildings started to jut out of the concrete. We have reached the city limits. Wattay International Airport. Hotels. Parks. Temples. Newer car models. They streamed through like an ultra-fast slideshow.
It was 2 PM when our bus stopped right in front of the imposing Laos Cultural Hall. I was again in Vientiane. I needed some city vibe.



My morning walk captured these beautiful postcard beauties. The wisps of clouds have cleared by then.







The first and major bus station which services northbound travels.


My first ride from the 1st station to the 2nd where my Vientiane bus was waiting. I was the lone passenger.

The 2nd bus station where my Vientiane bus was waiting. You see the ticket counter (no one bought a ticket from there since most passengers get their tickets from the 1st station) and a WC (toilet). No one was allowed to use their toilet. Not I nor a Ukrainean fellow. They should have just locked its door. Silly people.


The view is breathtaking even from a deserted bus station.



Fast Facts:

Distance from Vang Vieng to Vientiane – 156 km. or 3- 3 ½ hours of travelDistance from the town center to the bus station – 2 km



Current Bus Ticket Service Information:

Minibus to Luang Prabang – $13.75 or 110,000 kip or PhP619. Bus leaves at 9 AMExpress Bus to Luang Prabang – $13.15 or 105,000 kip or PhP591. Bus leaves at 10 AMNormal Bus to Phonsavanh – $10.65 or 85,000 kip or PhP479. Bus leaves at 9:30 AMMinibus to Vientiane – $8.75 or 70,000 kip or PhP393.75. Bus leaves 8 AM and 9 AMExpress Bus to Vientiane – $7.50 or 60,000 kip or PhP337.50VIP Bus to Vientiane - $16.25 or 130000 kip or PhP731.25


Heavy downpour on our way to Vientiane.

Random Expenditure:

· Jumbo ride from the town center to the bus station – $1.25 or 10,000 kips or PhP56.25
· VIP bus from Vang Vieng to Vientiane - $16.25 or 130000 kip or PhP731.25
WATTAY INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT - VIENTIANE

Vientiane’s airport is located 4 kilometers from the center, relatively nearer to the city center compared to the other airports in major Asian cities. Taxis charge a flat rate of $5 from Wattay to anywhere within the city limits. Trips to the Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge 1 charge $9. A French guy I met shared that he just walked about 500 meters out of the airport grounds to the nearest street where he was able to hail a jumbo for $3. From the city center, taxis can be hailed from about the same amount. Way cheaper if you take the bus from Talat Sao (Bus) Station – the market station – via the Phon Hong Bus which charges a measly $0.20 or 1,600 kip or PhP9 stopping right in front of the Wattay, which is run by the Laos military. There are very few airlines – 6 to be exact – flying to and from Wattay, thus the expensive plane fares of plane travels to Laos. Visas are available on arrival.

Departure tax: $10 (80,000 kip) for international flights, and $0.38 or 3,000 kip for domestic flights, although most flights now have incorporated this to a purchased ticket.

Military-run Wattay International Airport


Monday, August 4, 2008

Food Trip in Luang Prabang and Vang Vieng


Posting these culinary delights is always such a pleasure. Could travel be as fun and adventurous without the gastronomic and gustatory experience to be had in these interesting places? They’re more than half the thrill as I partake the delicious and the not-so-delicious; the not-so-pricey and the dirt cheap. Here are a few of those which I was able to document. Several have not been documented out of the urgency of an appetite. Ha ha ;-> Bon appétit!


Fried chicken with vermicelli soup (the microscopic chicken bits are somewhere in the mix), Phousi Guesthouse and Restaurant, 20,000 kip ($2.50). Pepsi was 4,000 kip ($0.50). It took me half an hour to decide where to have this meal coz there’s so much option. This is located at one of the side streets of Sisavangvong; one which leads to the Mekong riverside.

Phousi Guesthouse and Restaurant



A sidestreet of Sisavangvong where Phousi Restaurant is located.

A sticky rice cake with a very tentative taste. You need to dunk it into any of the sauces provided. 10,000 kip, 2 pieces.

Bakery Restaurant and Guesthouse. A favorite hang out and dining place along Sisavangvong.

My 27,000 kip ($3.38) meal at the Le Tam Tam Garden Restaurant; Coke at 8,000 kip ($1); steamed rice at 5,000 kip ($0.65). It is delicious as it looks. My dessert was dragonfruit. I bought a pineapple pie for 5,000 kip and forgot to take it along with me.

Le Tam Tam Garden Restaurant and Guesthouse, Sisavangvong Road. Laos people are a brilliant culinary people; the way they mix their spices, vegetables and garnishes.

Luang Prabang’s dragonfruit has a purplish juice which stains your hand and lips. It took several vigorous washes before I was able to remove (not completely) the reddish stain. A dragonfruit I bought from the Robinsons in Manila has an offwhite or colorless flesh and Laos’variety is way sweeter, juicier and messier to eat. Price: 5,000 kip per piece ($0.65)

Fruits galore: elongated mangoes, green oranges. Durian, watermelon, lansones, rambutan, mangosteen. Manila mangoes are a lot sweeter. Ask big band crooner and actor Harry Connick, Jr. (last seen in the movieP.S. I Love You” and “Bug- and recently had an immensely entertaining concert at the Philippine Interternational Convention Center.)


Stir fried chicken with cashew nuts. Tatmor Restaurant, along Sisavangvong. 20,000 kip ($2.50). Now I enjoyed this meal thoroughly, the taste and crunch of cashew on a fantastic mixture of ingredients and the perfect and mildest of spiciness. As a rule, I don’t like spicy food. But I loved this one. That’s why I was wondering why Tatmor had so few customers.

Tatmor Restaurant, along Sisavangvong. A cozy dining place.

Roast pork, just along the main highway in Vang Vieng. Ang sarap! 14,000 kip ($1.75). Khao nio (sticky rice) is 2,000 kip ($0.25). Pepsi can is 6,000 kip ($0.75). Donuts – 2 pieces,10,000 kip ($1.25). Laos is Pepsi Country. This is probably one of the few places on earth where Coca Cola plays second fiddle to Pepsi. I found that a lot of the locals aren’t very familiar with Coke. I am a Coke person myself.

Pork rice meal. Bus stop, Vang Vieng, 15,000 kip ($1.88). A horrendous meal that needed bone crackers.
















Thursday, July 31, 2008

Vang Vieng as a Dreamscape








SKETCHY DEAL

Upon arrival in Vang Vieng, I took a jumbo (tuktuk) with a Thai guy who thought I was a college student on holiday (Come on, man. What’s a college student doing in Vang Vieng at this month? Researching for his college thesis?). I wasn’t sure where to go. There were a couple of hotels on my list. I opted to check out Lonely Planet’s most recommended budget dwelling, Maylin Guesthouse. But the driver said that it was far from the main road. That he will take me to a street, then I can walk from there. Sounded like one sketchy deal. He was asking for 10,000 kip more than the Thai. Ten minutes later, we were at the High Street in the heart of town. 


WHERE THE STREETS HAVE NO NAMES


Vang Vieng hasn’t named their streets. Walang pangalan ang mga daan eh! At least I didn’t notice any. There were few vehicles plying the main street. This is a town for walkers. I saw a few tourists on rented bikes. For purposes of reference, the street pattern of the town is shaped like the capital letter T, with its head facing west. I shall call the "T-tail" as the High Street. If you go further from the T-head, you will reach the Song River (Nam Song). I saw a map from some website and it looked more complicated. It’s really way simpler navigating it. I came to Vang Vieng with hardly any preparation. No maps, no detailed plan.

FINDING MY ACCOMMODATION


When the driver dropped the Thai guy at Dok Khoun 1 Guesthouse, I decided to check it out. Maylin Guesthouse seemed way off the town center. Lonely Planet and Wikipedia have Dok Khoun on their list so it couldn’t be bad. Indeed I soon found out that it wasn’t! The main street is flocked by other guesthouses and tour operators, restaurants and souvenir shops. Despite that, it felt like one sleepy town. I was ushered into an average-sized room at the second storey. From my window, I can see the towering karst limestones. Not bad for a $5.60 (45,000 kip). I’m told that there were cheaper ones available ($3) with a communal bathroom outside. No, thank you. I prefer unlimited access to my own bathroom. As budget rooms go, this will do. It's far from being the perfect place. The paint is chipping off. The electric wires are clumsily pasted on the wall. And the toilet-flush drains incompletely, if you know what I mean. Having said that, I was aware that this wasn’t a luxury tour afterall. 


Once refreshed, I headed to the High Street . Caucasians leisurely walking around in their shorts and flipflops. Shops advertising local tours, cave visits, kayaking and tubing activities. There were a couple of ATM machines although I couldn’t find a post office. I looked for Vang Vieng souvenir shirts, but couldn’t find one either. This town is still on the verge of losing its soul to commercial excesses.


There are more than 40 guesthouses around so a reservation is hardly required or needed. But I have a feeling this will change very soon. Vang Vieng is, after all, considered as the backpacking capital of Laos; the tubing capital of Asia. Now that people – like myself – have heard of it, things can only get busier.

Number 17 is Maylin Guesthouse. Number 5 is Dok Khoun, my guesthouse. The marked letter T is the High Street. The broken white line near number 34 (Thavornsouk guesthouse) is the Song Bridge. The arrow is the Main Highway going towards the Bus Station. Vientiane the capital is headed south. Number 7 is Wat Kang where I had a full-on monk encounter.

FRIENDLY FACE

I went westward. I saw jumbos carrying layers of tubes (inflated inner tubes of tractor tires). Salbabida po. River-bound tourists. I turned right at the end of the road. There were stores selling market produce, fish, grilled bits of pork and chicken, coconut drinks, juices. As I didn’t have a map, I mentally noted the turns on the road. The temples didn’t have English labels. There were monk novices doing their chores. Some were sweeping the grounds. I didn’t see other tourists sneaking about. Ako lang. I turned to one of the side streets and came into a footbridge. The Song River flows southwards under it. Then someone tapped my shoulder. It's the Korean guy I met at the border! He had a wide grin on his face and eagerly shook my hand. He just came from Vientiane, while I am headed there - from here. It felt like seeing an old friend. Ang saya. It was bound to happen, meeting the same people traveling within the loop (this is a loop that most backpackers follow and includes Pakse, Vientiane, Vang Vieng, Luang Prabang, Phonsavanh). Further along, I ran into the Thai guy from the bus station. He told me that he had visited Maylin Guesthouse, and that i would have to cross a pay-bridge to get to the other side. I said I will check it out myself.

THE MONKS AND I


I saw another temple - Wat Kang. Although I wasn’t too keen on admiring another, it wasn’t a bad preoccupation when you’re just discovering a place on your own. Some young monks said hello. They were a friendly bunch. There wasn’t a lot of conversations, but sign language sufficed. Heck, they can’t even tell me the name of the wats (temples). Not long after, I was taking their photographs. They would become some of my favorite photos from this trip. I didn’t have to retrace my path as I later found myself back in the High Street. I trudged back to the riverside and headed south this time. It was an unhurried walk. Then I saw another bridge, bigger and wider – the Song Bridge. The view across the river is picture perfect. You can hardly get a bad photo from such beautiful landscape. I paid 4,000 kip (for foreigners) to cross the bridge to the other side. Locals pay 1,000 kip. Bicycles are charged 7,000 kip. 


CHECKING OUT A TOP PICK

Upon crossing the bridge, there was a small community to explore. The streets were very small; a muddy dirt road. 50 meters from the crossing is Maylin! I needed to see Maylin to find out why this was Lonely Planet’s top pick. I passed a drunk lao and from a distance I could hear children playing out loud. Then I saw a tributary of the Song River. On the shaky wood bridge were kids playing around. There were more kids and ladies bathing and washing clothes on the river. Maylin Guesthouse turns out to be a small but comfortable guesthouse with tall shrubs growing on the front yard. Kids waving their nets around, catching butterflies. Maylin looks like a nice place to stay, but its location leaves little to be desired. It is very far from the hub of activities, probably 15 to 20 minutes walk from the High Street. Moreover, you have to pay when you cross the bridge just to get there. When you’re going tubing, the jumbos will ask for more than what is being asked in town. At night, it wouldn’t be a very safe endeavor to leisurely walk back in the dark muddy roads from the bars and restaurants. I am content with Dok Khoun.

Much later in the day, before the sunset, I ventured into another path and saw a couple more temples. Kids were playing footballs (soccer) while nearby, other monks were bathing with their saffron robes on. From the street, I could see families sitting on bare floor, having their dinner. I noticed the other establishments listed in Lonely Planet. American-run Pan’s Place. Elephant Crossing. Vansana Hotel. Thavonsouk Resort. Riverside Bungalows. It was starting to drizzle so I began walking back to the High Street. I saw a vendor selling lechon kawali (roast pork) at 14,000 kip. Wow. I bought a cup of khao nio (sticky rice) at 6,000 kip. She didn’t have khao jao (plain white rice). I took my “dinner” back to my room. Yummy! After resting for a bit, I went out again to look for an internet shop. They charged 6,000 kip/15 minutes. While I was checking my mails, rain fell hard over Vang Vieng. At night, the bars fill with falangs (foreigners) lazily watching Friends with every other backpackers in town. I sat beside a couple from Athens and an Aussie girl from Canberra. There was a Japanese guy at the next table who hardly spoke. His contribution to the crowd was a constant smile. By 9 PM, I headed back to my hotel. Curfew starts in an hour.




What? Really? Oh my God! She said that? Good heavens!


Dok Khoun 1 Guesthouse and my $5 room.
The High Street


TUBING

Most tourists visit Vang Vieng for its tubing activities. The 3.5 km trip from near the Organic Mulberry Farm, north of Vang Vieng, has become so popular in the backpacker circuit that bars have been set up on islands and beaches along the route selling Beerlao and food. Prices are fixed at $4 and include your trip to the launch point. You have to be careful though with your tubes. If you fail to return it, a stiff fine of $7 is charged. A scam has somehow developed in this cartel. After having such enormous fun, floating on your salbabidas through the rivers and swinging through ropes on your way down the stream, some locals will offer to return those tubes for you. But, you see, the kindness of strangers aren’t what they always seem. They sometimes cost you. And the next morning, you will probably have someone knocking on your door asking for $7 for unreturned tubes.


In A Nutshell


The area’s main attraction is the dramatic landscape surrounding it. Honeycombed with unexplored tunnels and caverns, the cliffs are a spelunker’s heaven. The Nam Song (Song River) meanwhile plays host to kayakers and travelers floating along on tractor inner tubes – a pastime so thoroughly enjoyable and popular that it has become one of the rites of passage of the Indochina backpacking circuit. People are oblivious of the tacky Greco-Laotian architecture of the guesthouses. Elsewhere, there are the TV clubs andhappy bars. Take note of the word “happy” as these refer to menus that allow tourists to sit on an axe pillow, sucking down a shake laced with marijuana, mushrooms or opium and tripping through endless reruns of Friends”. In fact, Joey Tribiani and company deserve royalties for their services in Vang Vieng. This is Friends Country. It ‘s also important to note that Vang Vieng is not Amsterdam where drugs are legally sold in some areas. Don’t get caught taking or possessing one. This is, after all, a communist country with very traditional values and rules, as well as punishments. 





Nam Song (Song River), a tributary of the Mekong.

The exquisite tasting, locally brewed, French-tech distilled Beerlao.

One of the footbridges, northwest Vang Vieng. One of the "happy" bars (above).

Champa Lao Guesthouse




Hopetal de Vang Vieng. Yeah, it says "hopetal".

Song Bridge, southwest Vang Vieng. Had to pay 4,000 kip to cross to the other side.




Maylin Guesthouse

Catching a butterfly.





As the sun sets over the Nam Song...


Wat Kang and my new found friends, its novice monks (below). The wat is number 7 on the map.




Wat That (aka Wat Si Vieng Song)


American-owned Pan's Place, a highly recommended budget accommodation along the Main Highway.




A hairy encounter.


Roast pork (liempo) at 14,000 kip per order. Sarap!



Vang Vieng Fast Facts:
Tubing Capital of Laos.

Backpacker central.

Population: 30,000

Vang Vieng to Luang Prabang – 231 km, 6-7 hours of travelVang Vieng to Vientiane - 153 km, 3 ½ hrs – 4 hrs of travelATM machines: There is a Bcel machine right across Dok Khoun 1 Guesthouse.Money changers: Your guesthouse will gladly change your dollar for you, although rates in Vientiane are a little better.


Temples to Visit: (There are only 4 as far as I know.)
- Wat That (Wat Si Vieng Song), Wat Kang, Wat Si Suman and Wat Si Mixayaham

Wat Si Suman, southwest Vang Vieng, near a school and the Song River. Couldn't get a better photo coz a dog was barking at me.





Random Expenditures


· Dok Khoun 1 guesthouse – $5.60 or 45,000 kip or PhP252
· Jumbo/tuktuk from the bus station to the High Street – $1.25 or 10,000 lip or PhP56.25
· Jumbo/tuktuk from the bus station to the stop near Song Bridge – $2.50 or 20,000 kip or PhP112.50
· Song Bridge crossing (return) - $0.50 or 4,000 kip or PhP22.50
· Tubing adventure (transportation and tubes included) - $4 or 32,000 kip or PhP180
· Penalty for failure to return the tubes - $7 or 56,000 kip
· Roast pork (
liempo)– $1.75 or 14,000 kip or PhP78.75
· Khao nio (sticky rice) – $0.25 or 2,000 kip or PhP11.25
· Internet use for 1 hour – $3 or 24,000 kip or PhP135

Wat Si Mixayaham (above and below), a temple located at East Vang Vieng, along the Main Highway.



This is the Eye in the Sky!