Maafushi: A Glimpse of the Island Life (Maldives Diaries)

Maafushi. It's the biggest island in the remote South Male Atoll (one of the country's 26 atolls) with a population of barely 1,200. It is also a "local island", governed by traditional local laws and Muslim discipline. This is why wearing bikinis isn't allowed in much of the island except at the designated "Bikini Beach". I like taking leisurely walks at the town center, far from the beach-front promenade where most hotels and guest houses are.

But the next several years will change the "face" of the island. During my walk, I saw 4 two-story hotels/guest houses being constructed. There's a football field - called Football Grand - in the center of town, as well as a mosque. The map shows another mosque at the northern end of the island near the prison which is the biggest in the country. At night, the center of town takes in the "noise" from the power plant. Otherwise, the island sleeps early. There are 2-3 convenience stores easily accessible from most hotels. Internet or wifi signal is mostly good, except at the Kaani (which has 3 branches). There's a hospital just across the football field. Water has good pressure, but is believed to be non-potable. Where do they get their water? I asked and was told, "the sea". They have a desalinating plant. I've never seen an internet cafe so far.

Maafushi doesn't have public motorized vehicles although several hotels have vans. Otherwise, most arriving guests from the jetty simply walk to their hotels alongside their official welcome party. Near the hotels are a number of souvenir shops which peddle local products rather inexpensively. You wouldn't believe how cheap they are compared to the shops in Male. A mask, for example, would cost $80 to $200 in the capital. the same product would cost $15-30 in Maafushi. the same is true in other local islands. It is thus important to remember this when you're thinking of buying lots of souvenirs for family and friends. I was, of course, too late to realize this, but "gifts" are never about prices, right?

This is the Eye in the Sky!  

Entrance of the more central mosque.

Iuma is a convenience store which opens until 9 PM.

A local restaurant with relatively affordable food. I'd get my rice meals here for my dinner. I've never seen a foreigner dine here - so when you enter, people gaze at you. They're very friendly.

Inside the souvenir shop has so many local products on display.

The "dark and scary old man" is a traditional figure commonly seen around the Maldives (check the bigger version from the first photo above).

Sampaguita in Maafushi. If it looks and smells like one, it must be one. :)

Football Grand

Manta rays in the center of town

Kilometer Zero. The green fence (left) leads to the hospital.

I've never seen canals in Maafushi. Thus when it rains, there are milky puddles everywhere.

Island Map of Maafushi - This is quite a rare find and probably the first to be posted online. I saw this pasted on a souvenir shop's wall and is quite messy, I had to clean it up a bit.

Images from Gulhifushi and Its Natural Ocean Pool

Gulhifushi is practically deserted, but for a pair of adorable staff who keeps giving apples and drinks (for free!) It's a newly developed part of Anantara designed like a "desert island". It has a main cottage which functions as a lobby, bar and restaurant table that occupies a dozen. There are a few more tables outside and a hut with a long table.

One of its features is a Natural Ocean Pool. They've sequestered a piece of the ocean, cordoning it into a cove, one side open to the ocean. Employing coral stones, the floor towards this is a bit rough on barefoot. Around this islet, navigable in 15 minutes or less, are cots and bean bags facing the Laccadive Seas.

To get here, you only have to ask the reception staff at Dhigu for a boat to take you to Gulhifushi ("gulhi" means "paradise", "fushi" means "island"). Just across Gulhifushi is the bigger local island called "Gulhi", the only stopover when traveling from Male to Maafushi.

Gulhi's natural pool is open from 10 AM to 6 PM, although if you've booked for a special dinner under the stars, the staff will stay on, serve your food and wait for you. Restaurant is open from 11 AM to 5 PM.

FOOD SELECTION

Food selection, as per menu, is interesting. There's Asian salad (Vietnamese summer rolls and Thai chili mayonnaise); caprese salad (buffalo mozzarella, roma tomato, basil extra virgin olive oil with extra tandoor salmon); Fatoush salad and tandoor prawns with grilled garlic pita at $30; prime beef burger with pickle and cajun potato wedges at $26; Thai prawn burger with onion bagel, coconut sambal and fries at $26; Paella sushi with focaccia square, greek tzatziki and fries at $26; Maldivian tuna at $26; tofu mushroom spinach with sunflower whaet roll, and cajun potato wedges at $26; chicken breast with nan bread and coconut sambal and fries at $26; lamb shish at $26; sliced tropical fruits at $11; pancake burger with banana toffee pecan nut coulis at $12. Then there's the fresh catch of the day - the snappers (red and white) and the garoupa, or whatever is available.

If you get hungry, you'll have enough items for gastronomic options.

Once you're ready to head back to Anantara's main island of Dhigu, you can just tell your waiter and he'll call the boat for you. Dhigu is just 5-10 minutes away.

This is the Eye in the Sky!

Natural Ocean Pool is open from 10 to 6. No lifeguards on duty.

Gulhifushi: Anantara's Desert Island (Maldives Diaries)

The sun was partially out after lunch so I had to take some more photos.  Overcast skies provided convenient protection against the otherwise unhealthy sun. I rushed to the reception to arrange for a shuttle that would take me to Gulhi Fushi. The ride didn't even take 5 minutes, way past Naladhu to the right and Veli to the left. It was a small island populated by 2 waiting staff: the charming Gayan and the bright-eyed Amsal.

Gulhi Fushi (“Paradise Island”) is small you could walk around and across it in 15 minutes. There’s a bar/restaurant, a kitchen, an ocean pool (6 feet deep) and several cabanas with light green bean bags. There’s a white cot where the sand bag is. 

During low tide, this sand bar turns up allowing leisurely walk to Veli, reminding me of the islands in Rihivelli. Gayan kept giving gifts, it was embarrassing: from apples to “magic drinks” which he specially concocted. Later that afternoon, he’d challenge me to guess the contents: I got 3 out of 4. Mango, lemon, passion fruit and – finally! – “bitter lemon”.  He was quite pleased I didn't get the last one. The younger and bashful Amsal, assigned to the kitchen, didn't get it either. We laughed as we guessed. “You’re crazy,” I had to chuckle.

Adorable pair of Gayan and Amsal, Gulhifushi's only inhabitants.

Miracle drink

Before leaving the island, Gayan offered the catch of the day, one that isn't on the menu. I ordered two because I wanted a slice of seafood gastronomy: grouper with rice ($39) and white snapper with rice ($39) and Gayan’s “miracle drink” ($12). 

The garoupa was heavenly: it was tender and melted in the mouth and way tastier than any fresh catch I’ve tasted in a long time – and I am not even a fish person. Curiously, there were a hundred flies circling our food. “It’s the bone that smells  that drives the flies in,” Gayan said.

Earlier, I asked Gayan why dogs were prohibited all over the Maldives. “They are dirty, like pigs,” he said. I countered, “But I know of Malaysianwho even have half a dozen dogs. Dogs are common in Malaysia.” “Aww, they’re not all-Muslims,” he replied. 

Maldives prohibits a lot of things: alcohol, any religious propaganda, dogs, pigs, bikinis (unless you’re on “privately-leased resort islands”, where you follow the rules set by the resort owner).

After early supper (5PM), I hopped back on a shuttle and went straight to the souvenir shop and got a CD. I still had $40 left and if I don’t consume it, it doesn’t get refunded. I bought Ahmed's "Dhaalu Raa", a Maldivian CD with vocals at $49. Turns out, the souvenir shop isn't part of the “consumable items” so I had to pay cash for this. Even a post card here is more expensive – a dollar a piece. It was 2 pieces for a dollar at Fihalhohi.

The artist, Ahmed Nasheed (left), spins Maldivian rhythms with a minimum of instruments: guitars, drums, sax, bass, organ and euphonium, mixing boduberu (a traditional music and dance form employing 3-4 drums and a thumping beat) and dhandi (a popular folk dance usually participated by 30 men and believed to have originated from the Minicoy Islands), with lilting sound characteristic of music from seaside villages. I was of course pleased with myself despite parting with my $49.

I settled my account then rushed back to my speedboat for my ride back to Maafushi. Before that, I saw a manta ray leisurely floating close to the shoreline while a heron (or crane) looks on. The fowls and fauna of these islands are amazing. Suddenly, $178 was clearly worth every cent, including what I wasn’t able to “consume”. I was pleased with myself.

This is the Eye in the Sky!

Secluded area to relax in.

It literally means "Paradise Island".

Natural Ocean Pool. they've sequestered a cove where sea water could rush in creating a natural pool.

Fish is cooked wrapped in banana leaf and served liked this. It's like unwrapping a gift at Chritmas.

Garoupa was beyond deicious although its "fishy' stench tends to overpower.

White snapper tasted fresh and delectable.

Gulhifushi's main lobby.

At sun down, the waters reced and a sand bar appears moving towards neighboring Veli.

Anantara's smaller Gulhi (Gulhifushi) and the local island of Gulhi are in this area map.