My 2,210 rupee (US $41) fare, almost 4x the price of a Jaisalmer sleeper class, provided meals (there’s a choice for vegetarians and otherwise) and a dash of serenity. The first class seats were a limiting option (4,135 rupees or $77) that if I were to purchase a ticket and still endure a 17-hour travel, it would be wiser to fly instead (for a 2-hour flight). Needless to say, this ride was painless although at some point, the enclosure and the utter indifference of my bunkmates were stifling.
It took me awhile to decide where to get accommodation, but I kept vacillating between Colaba and Fort Area. The Fort is in the heart of the financial district. It has the Bombay Stock Exchange and street shopping, most especially of softwares. Colaba, on the other hand, has the Gateway of India, Regal Theatre, the Taj Mahal Palace Hotel, high-end boutiques and a baywalk filled with gaudily-decorated, lavishly-lit chariots. It’s an easy choice, really. Unfortunately, not a lot of tourists get this sense of the place. On point of practicality, Colaba – situated almost at the tail end of the city – has a relatively more expensive row of accommodations, and the cheaper ones leave much to be desired. If you’re a budget-conscious backpacker, Colaba is restrictive. Correct that: Mumbai is! This city has rates 3 to 4 times the going rate of other Indian cities so your choice is mostly between a 5-star hotel or a ramshackle guesthouse. Sadly, there’s almost no in-between. But I am getting ahead of myself so let me backtrack.
|Mumbai Central platforms|
|Rajdhani Express arrives at the eastern half of Mumbai Central.|
|Meal time on the train.|
Now this part becomes hairy. I started haggling, an activity I don’t have much patient of. A fellow traveler stated that the fare from the train station to Colaba should be around 200 rupees, but since I was a tourist, I should expect more. Don't I know that? I wanted them to use the meter, but no one was willing to. And where was the pre-paid taxi booth? You see, "arguing with touts and errant taxi drivers" has been a common occurrence in Mumbai travels. Travelers have huffed and puffed about it, but for years, taxi operators in this bustling city have mostly been dismissive of such booths until recently. Why a government arm is hard pressed to implement this is a mystery.
I walked out the station and allowed myself to calm down. I wasn't proud of myself. I've never acted that way before. I am usually emotionally controlled. It was interesting how the Indian taxi drivers succeeded to push my button. Who looked the fool, the uncouth or the uncivilized? Not the greedy drivers. At the end of the day, I am quite sure they enjoyed a restful sleep back in their miserable homes. There are lessons that one learns from experience and outside the university. I hailed a taxi plying the highway. Moving taxis are safer to use than waiting ones. My taxi driver started the meter, and off we went into Colaba sunset, so to speak. Finally!
|Kamal Mansion houses SeaShore Hotel and India Guesthouse.|
|Gasp! Entrance to the hotel|
There were three hotels on my list of choices. The first one was called Maria Lodge housed by “Grand Building” along Arthur Bunder Road. I asked my driver to wait while I check out the lodge for a room. But a couple of guys by the entrance were telling me that the lodge “was finished”; that it had closed shop. Hmmm, this was a familiar scenario, and rightfully mentioned by Lonely Planet: of touts and hotel wallahs turning tourists to their hotel of choice. I didn't pursue because, to be honest, the building was far from being “grand”. In fact, it was far from being “habitable”. In India, several hotel buildings are grandiosely, albeit misleadingly bestowed welcoming names though they’re far from being abodes of comfort or luxury. This was a subject of an adorable British film called “The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel” (BAFTA-nominated for Best Film, starring Dames Judi Dench and Maggie Smith, Tom Wilkinson, Bill Nighy and Dev Patel). In the film, half a dozen British retirees from London leave their comfortable, albeit boring lives and travel across the globe to live in a luxurious home-for-retirees in Jaipur, only to find a “hotel” more derelict than decent. What follows is a series of adventures so engrossing and heart warming. But why am I talking about the movies? Anyway, from Maria Lodge, I told the driver to take me to my next choice.
|Hallway of SeaShore Hotel|
The front desk is manned by a hospitable staff. Many of the rooms are non-AC rooms, but since it was the cold season, who needed AC? For a measly 600 rupees, I got a single room with a window. There’s a television with English channels, a comfortable bed with clean sheets, and more importantly, a window with a view of the Mumbai Harbour. This sprawling view of the serene Arabian Sea would suffice for the dearth of amenities of the hotel. Bathroom is shared, but there’s hardly a queue; and the bathroom’s newly renovated and spotless. Check out time is ridiculously early at 10 AM which is probably similar in other hotels in Mumbai. The hotel, which also manages the guesthouse a floor below, doesn't have a restaurant of its own. If you’re on a budget, it’s probably hard to find anything more decent than SeaShore Hotel.
|View from my SeaShore Hotel room|
BORNE OUT OF EMBARRASSMENT
Before long, I was walking by the bayside. Sometimes one has to go through a piece of hell to get a piece of heaven. This side of Colaba was gorgeous. Each block seemed to reek of colorful stories from an eventful past. The Taj Mahal Palace Hotel (which is actually two hotels) had been standing there since 1903. With its 565 rooms, it has welcomed dignitaries like the Obamas, the Clintons, Oprah Winfrey and jetsetting couple Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie. There is a delectable story behind its construction.
According to the grapevine, Indian industrialist Jamsetji Tata, regarded as the "Father of Indian Industry" and founder of the behemoth Tata Group of Companies, was once refused entry to a posh hotel (Watson's Hotel, now Esplanade Mansion) in colonial India because it was for "whites only". What better way to avenge embarrassment than build your own hotel twice grander and bigger than Watson's? 127 million British pounds later, Tata owned a hotel that boasted of India's first steam-operated German elevators, electric fans imported from the Americas, baths from Turkey and, to complete the ambiance, British butlers with their aquiline noses in the air. How's that for revenge? The view is nothing short of jaw dropping. But all these trivialities were nearly relegated to mere history when the terrorists bombed the hotel one crazy November day; when various places around Mumbai were similarly pilfered and sabotaged. Post-bombing restoration cost $40 million. The face of Mumbai has since been transformed into a circumspect, if vigilant demeanor. Terrorism has transformed the world into a less friendly, distrustful, and wary place.
Beautifully nestled by the waterfront, just a few hops from the Taj Mahal Palace Hotel stands the regal Gateway of India, a monumental basalt-and-concrete arch built (21 years after the founding of the Taj Mahal Palace and Tower Hotel) during the British Raj in 1924. Designed by architect George Wittet, it was erected to commemorate the visit of King George and Queen Mary in 1911. It took 4 years and $38,200 to complete; now it is Mumbai's most visited site.
|Mughal-inspired arch with Hindu accouterments|
ACCIDENTAL EAR PICKER
I loved just standing around watching people wander around, but this isn't a place if you're in search of serenity. There are hundreds of touts selling you stuff: balloons, candies, local photographers, and a bevy of souls peddling whatever it is they can make a few bucks with. My encounter was with a turbanned fellow who, from out of the blue, came from behind me, picked my right ear in a split second then came up with a scoop supposed filled with ear wax ("ewww...") purported to be mine. While it is true that I don't necessarily clean my ears every single day when I am on the road, I couldn't believe that I've accumulated that much either. You see, cleaning the ear with cotton bud on a daily basis (while a hygienic practice) is not medically sound because you lose the intended oily environment of the internal ear. This turns into a dry, scaly, and ultimately itchy environment. The person becomes susceptible to ear irritations, infection and Otitis Externa. So... Did I just have my ear cleaned off a gargantuan scoop of ear wax? I'd say, no thank you. I can clean them adequately without the need of a spatula.
Meanwhile, there was this place I wanted to visit before sun sets over Mumbai. There are no elephants there, but they may as well be here: http://eye-in-the-blue-sky.blogspot.com/2013/01/mumbais-elephanta-island-heritage.html.
This is the Eye in the Sky!
|Gateway of India. This photo only courtesy of Chris Haigh of Brittanica.|
A Mumbai Walk - http://eye-in-the-blue-sky.blogspot.com/2013/02/mumbai-walk-on-leisurely-trail-across.html