Flying Woes and Immigration Blues in Coolangata, Gold Coast - The Long Road to Oz Part 3

If we are to take stock of our waking hours, how does one account for the hours spent some 30,000 feet above the Earth? This brings me to a plane ride with Air Asia-X that covers a distance of 6518 kilometers (4050 miles) to get to Coolangata, the southernmost suburb of the Gold Coast in Queensland, Australia. The ride itself seemed manageable. My plane took off from the KL tarmac at 10 AM and touched ground by 8:20 PM (Queensland time, which is 2 hours ahead of Malaysia). Do the math and that’s 12 hours and 20 minutes just sitting on a chair. 

THE MOROSE AIR ASIA-X CREW

I don’t particularly remember much about the day except how I wished I were still performing the airline’s “Eye in the Sky” task. There was this elder flight attendant (probably the head stewardess) who completely ignored me the whole flight through. The first time I called her attention, she just walked by without even batting an eyelash, pretending not to have heard my several calls. Was she deaf? I could donate a hearing aid. She was acting eccentric. Flight attendants with chips on their shoulder were a deviancy. That goes against the fabric of their raison d’etre.  But this woman just looked morose; it was easy to deduce she must have plugged something somewhere and it got stuck ‘til kingdom come. What do you reckon? I mostly don’t require their service, but at some point during a 12 hour flight, you would need something lest you go a bit crazy. I would have understood if this particular woman looked pleasant. When you’re rancid-looking, the best way to make yourself presentable is to smile. Smile makes ugly people acceptable. It was a curiosity why Air Asia-X failed to rein in on the demeanor of their international crew.

Lasagna for my second meal. I inadvertently pre-ordered two. The first one was pancake with honey.

MAKING SENSE

In the dead hours, you try to make sense of the madness of flying. Surely, it isn't one of the most pleasant things to partake during travels. Your back hurts. Your legs cramp. You’re annoyed by the sonorous snoring of the passenger in front of you. You can’t digest the food you take in. But this unpalatable experience is a means to achieve endless hours of new discoveries, thus you try to make the best of it. Like that bitter pill you take to get better, to enrich the soul. I looked outside my window and saw the void. In all my years of travel, I have never seen the sky like this before (photo below); a cacophony of gradually transitioning hues from blue to pink, from orange to purple, like a gateway to the void.

Meanwhile, I tried to enjoy the two empty seats beside me. This wasn't serendipity. Air Asia, through Option Town, offered the prerogative to “upgrade”. With an additional fare, I could “purchase” two empty seats beside me. By check-in time, they would re-assign my seat and provide me 3 adjacent empty chairs. If this wasn't available, money is refunded. The opportunity provided minor luxury that would allow me to rest “horizontally”; to stretch my legs with nary an intrusion from anyone. But even this doesn't really offer the comfort that a bed affords, which I wasn't willing to purchase. Maybe when I’m Bill Gates?

The multicolored void up there.

NAZI INQUISITION

When my plane finally touched down Gold Coast Airport, formerly Coolangata Airport, I was on tenterhooks. There’s something about Australia’s immigration that unsettles me. The airport looked smallish for an international transport hub. Most carriers that fly in the region arrive in Brisbane International Airport (about an hour north), not Coolangata. But airport size was the least of my concern. Curiously, this is the only airport in Australia that straddles two regions – New South Wales (where Sydney is) and Queensland. While this was running in my head, I queued for my entry stamp. Ahead of me were two Asian guys who got the third degree inquisition from the immigration desk, and I was obviously Asian as well. God, I hate being unnecessarily defensive before strangers. But here goes.

Turns out I was sort of exempted from rigid screening. It seemed odd that Australia doesn’t actually issue Visa stickers pasted on passports. They instead hand you an authorization number written on a piece of paper, which wasn't even asked from me. “How are you, mate,” the immigration officer warmly greeted. “Hello,” I replied tentatively. It felt like we were small-talking in a bar. “What’s your purpose of visit?” “Holiday.” “You have a friend here?” “Yes, I do. She’s a doctor, and she’s waiting outside.” This tete-a-tete was more pleasant than the Air Asia attendants. In fact, the officer supplied the answers he asked. Then it abruptly stopped. “Enjoy your holiday, mate. Cheers!” He handed me my passport and that was it. I was of course taken aback by the short exchange. What did I do that didn't merit a Nazi interrogation similar to the two Asians ahead of me? My profession, perhaps? Was it even noted in the disembarkation card, I forgot?

CUSTOMS PARANOIA

As I was moving towards the customs counter, I noticed signs that warned against misdeclaration or non-declaration of “dutiable goods”. I've earlier written down that there was nothing to declare. Most Asian countries regulate optical media (CDs and DVDs), inflow of cash, liquor and cigarettes. Surprisingly, these were items of no concern to the Australian customs. What Australia strictly regulates instead are (drum roll!) medicine and food stuff of any kind; live plants and animals too. Nothing edible leaves the airport. The aforementioned have to be declared and surrendered.

I was anxious because I remembered I had a bottle of vitamins and emergency medicine(s). At some point, after claiming luggage, the path towards customs forked into two. Customs official would randomly pick arriving passengers whether they should get screened or head straight to the Green Channel, the airport exit. Most passengers, in fact, were pointed towards the screening queue. If authorities find undeclared items in your luggage, you will be further questioned and duly fined. A$5,000 isn’t a walk in the park! That’s a staggering P200,000. Bearing that in mind, I put on an innocent face. Guess what? The lady guard pointed me straight to the exit. See? A smile goes a long way. 

Gold Coast Airport in Coolangata, Queensland.

 At close to midnight, the airport lobby looked deserted. I was among the first to come out of the building. Unlike other Asian airports with a bevy of tour counters and taxi bays, this was all abandoned space; a slumbering joint that yawns at midnight.

I was excited because I was to meet Girlie, a dear friend whom I haven’t seen since our Vietnam trip several years ago. Since 2004, she had been incessantly inviting me to visit her, but there was always another country that was easier to visit. Almost a decade later, I finally made it to the land of exotic accents, koala bears, kangaroos and a populace (22.6 million) that’s barely a fourth of the Philippines’ 95 million, spread across 7.7 million square kilometers of land mass. (The Philippines has a land mass of almost 300,000 square kilometer; a minuscule archipelago compared to Australia’s vast lands. )

DARKNESS IN OZ

Girlie drove her VW for 30 minutes, plying Gold Coast Highway, taking me to Surfer’s Paradise, the most frequently visited site in the area. But on a Sunday night, I could only hear the rush of the waves which was otherwise pitch black. At midnight, it was an eerie place cloaked in darkness and inactivity. Even the roads were dim and equally deserted. Most commercial establishments have long closed shop, except the few bars in the area. This wasn't how I pictured Queensland was like, that’s for sure.

We proceeded to where a famous casino (Conrad Jupiter’s Hotel and Casino) operates, but even Spinners Seafood and Steak House had closed shop. “Tap Dogs”, a spectacular all-male tap dancing musical revue, was playing there, which was fortuitous considering that I've seen them almost ten years ago when they were touring in London.  I suggested that, since it had been a long day for me, I was okay with a take out. I had enough adventure for the day. And if I go much further, it would all fall into a blur of a memory. Besides, I couldn't wait to finally see Girlie’s house, a gorgeous structure borne out of hard work and perseverance; a testament that good foreign doctors can make hay even in the land down under.

This is the Eye in the Sky!

Girlie's VW with its verbose and hard working GPS.

Gold Coast's famous strip looked almost deserted after midnight.

Conrad Jupiter's Hotel and Casino in Gold Coast, Queensland.

Homey ambiance and sophisticated veneer in Girlie's Helensvale home. 

A painting on the wall at Oystercove Promenade in Helensvale.

Route map from Coolangata's Gold Coast Airport to Girlie's Helensvale digs.

Crossing Back the Vangtao-Chongmek Border to Ubon Ratchathani

Smoked glass ceilings at the Chongmek Boundary Post

It was time to head back to Thailand. I was looking forward to seeing the Moon River up close. Though not particularly associated with the wistful, albeit romantic river from "Breakfast at Tiffany's" (after all, it was just a song), my mind was bent on the romantic notion associated with the name. Before all that, I had to leave Pakse, cross the Vangtao-Chongmek border again, and check into a new hotel in Ubon Ratchathani - the Sri Isan Hotel. That was the immediate plan.

After a breakfast buffet with a hundred monks, I checked out at 7:20 AM. With baggage securely tucked behind me, I crossed the street across Champasak Palace Hotel and hailed a bicycle with a sidecar. I asked him how much it was to take me to the VIP Bus Terminal, he said 5,000 kip - far cry from the 40,000 kip tuktuk rate I was asked upon my arrival in Pakse. But wait, just before finally settling on my seat, the driver changed his mind. It would be 10,000 kip. Imagine what 3 seconds can do to a bicycle ride in Laos. Haha.

OFF TO VANGTAO

There were few people milling around the Kriang Krai VIP Bus Terminal. After presenting my passport, I purchased my ticket, used the loo (2,000 kip) and waited for my 8:30 AM departure. People started arriving shortly while I roamed the premises. Finally, at 8:40 AM, the bus pulled out of the garage and off we went. The scenery flashed like a slide show as we blazed the western highway. There were rivers and dried out rice paddies (it was post harvest), small temples and bridges. I liked the seemingly ordinary places I caught on film. They were specific moments in time that shall never be recovered in the future - and i shall leave them as memories. One hour later - at exactly 9:40 - we reached Vangtao, the Lao border town.

We were told to get off our bus and proceed to the Lao border office (there were 4 counters) to get stamped out. The bus crossed the border gates and it would wait for us at the other side. Some borders require passengers to unload their baggage for inspection, but not this border. Our baggage stays in our bus. This makes the immigration formality easier and faster.

Since it was just a matter of getting stamped out of Laos, the process didn't take me 5 minutes. No fees involved - just a fast stamping out. I saw Phonsavanh Bank and a Duty Free Shop, a Car Rental, a Customs Post during my walk away from the Vangtao Immigration Post. It's just a mere 100 meters to the Thai Immigration gates. The makeshift stalls of fruits, shirts, food, and other accouterments were still there. At the back of my mind, I wondered who would buy these products. Would they be fresher as fruits? Not in an arid and dusty outpost like Chongmek. Would they be cheaper? Highly unlikely.

A MOMENT OF EMBARRASSMENT


Chongmek Immigration Post (Thailand border town) is decidedly more upscale, with spaceship-like sheds and roofs seemingly awaiting flight. I stepped into a waiting room where people fill up an arrival form. Once completed, we queue at the immigration counters at the next room. Since I was visa-free (Filipinos need no visas to visit Thailand as a tourist), it didn't take long. Of course there was a moment of embarrassment when I couldn't understand immigration very well, I had to ask him three times before I finally realized he was just saying "Good morning!" My bad! I must have turned beet red because he had a wide grin. He must have thought that this Filipino doesn't understand English much. Poor guy! Haha! Anyway, land crossings to Thailand give tourists 15 days stay in the country (arrival at the Suvarnabhumi International will get you 30 days).

From the Immigration Counter, you walk into the Customs Room then head out of the building. I saw an ATM machine just outside the door. From there, I could see the sprawl of the market atmosphere of Chongmek. There were more stalls, tuktuks that could take you to nearby towns (including Ubon). To my left, I saw our bus. I rushed to get in, thinking they could be waiting for me. But of course that wouldn't be the case. There were several Caucasians - Europeans, Australians - who were still processing their visa-on-arrival.

THE CONSIDERATE GERMAN

I smugly sat back on my chair until most everyone was back on their seats. Thirty minutes later, an overweight German woman leisurely sauntered back into the bus, carrying items she bought from the shops outside. How convenient and considerate to be shopping while others waited for her - the schmuck, really. She was sporting a wide grin for another girl who was already on her seat - her words sounded like she was clearing her throat, throwing her syllables like there's something stuck down her larynx. "Danke schoen," she said to her seatmate. Thank you, lady, for letting us wait for you, I mentally muttered.

Two hours later - at 11:40 AM, I was back in Ubon's Bus Terminal. There was no need to linger. I have seen the area, and I had a long list of plans for the remainder of the day. I took a taxi to take me to Sri Isan Hotel, a business hotel located just a stone's throw from the Moon River. What's better is, it's just a block away from the famous Night Market! The meter clocked a cheap 68 baht (the airport rate to the city which is 4-5x closer was 200 baht). I gave my driver 100 baht.

Sri Isan Hotel was waiting for me. So was my room at 221.

This is the Eye in the Sky!  

My Kriang Krai Bus from Pakse to Ubon Ratchathani

This international bus had 59% Thais and Laos and 40% other foreign nationals. Oh yeah, 1% Filipino. Haha

Post harvest rice paddies

A river near Ban Phonthong.

Small temple with a Buddha and a Naga guarding it.

Another river west of Pakse as we got closer to the Vangtao town border.

Vangtao Immigration post to get stamped out of Laos.

It won't take 5 minutes to get stamped out of Laos.

Phonsavanh Bank at the Vangtao border.

Lao Duty Free Shop in Vangtao

Vangtao Customs Post

This is the 100 meter walk - through stalls - to the Chongmek Thai Border Post.

Stalls selling baguettes and fruits.

Lao shirts, anyone?

Cars for rent

The fenced walkway through the Chongmek Border Post.

Starship Trooper at the Chongmek Immigration Post

The International Buses pass through these gates while their passengers pass through immigration (right).

Entrance of the Chongmek Boundary Post

Write your immigration forms here before proceeding to the Immigration Counters at the next room.

ATM machine just outside the Customs Hallway.

Chongmek commerce just outside the Border Post.

If you arrived on a tuktuk (instead of a point-to-point bus), then you can get your next ride here. Tuktuks wait at the parking space. Haggle hard.

For a more complete information, here's my Ubon to Pakse border crossing (Chongmek to Vangtao):

- http://eye-in-the-blue-sky.blogspot.com/2012/02/from-ubon-to-pakse-crossing-chongmek.html

Ubon's main bus terminal

Ratchaboot Road - the street along my next hotel, Sri Isan Hotel.

My 68-baht taxi as it moves away from my hotel. There is a huge 3-story sprawling market beside the Moon River.

Sri Isan Hotel in Ubon Ratchathani