Male, The Second Time Around (Maldives Diaries)

There was nothing worth recalling about my KL departure, except that the self-check in at the airport (via Malaysia Airlines) took faster than I expected. I was of course anxious about a non-human check-in process, but that's how things work these days. Those machines didn't fuss much, and the subsequent bag drop was similar. I did have an interesting chat with the check-in counter girl (let's not call her "baggage lady") who "educated me" about their baggage policies (I asked, she more than obliged and even expounded).

Malaysia Airlines allows 30 kilogram check-in baggage - and a provision of just two bags therein. Which means, that if you check-in 3 items, even if the cumulative weight is less than 30 kilogram, you've already exceeded your allowable baggage  and shall be charged accordingly for the 3rd bag - a hefty 100 ringgit every 5 kilogram weight.

That policy, of course, will probably be met with a lot of complaints from Filipinos known for taking half their domicile with them whenever they come home from overseas work or from where they've migrated.

MYSTERY 

There's another mystery involving my flight. Perhaps I overlooked a few things or was inattentive. Departure time was 21:55. That's 9:55 PM. We had to take the airport train to get to my KLIA boarding gate, C23. Upon arrival at this terminal (a virtual shopper's paradise), it didn't take 5 minutes to board. The plane left at 8:55 PM. Had we taken longer, we'd have missed the flight.

Jaw dropping design at KLIA1. Never fails every time.

Noodle dish at KLIA's "Old Town White Coffee" @ 12 RM ($3.70 / PhP165). The immediate area after immigration has shops but it has very limited restaurants, only 2 or 3.

ANXIOUS ABOUT THREES

I was earlier anxious about this flight. I've read a couple of Yahoo news articles saying that many Malaysia Air flights were flying on relatively empty seats, and that the airline is on the brink of bankruptcy due to the twin disaster they've recently experienced (one went missing; the second got bombed in Ukraine). Bad luck comes in threes? Thankfully, this wasn't the case. I lived to tell. Plane was almost full. Like many MH flights, they served good food, including tasty chicken curry, a garbanzos salad, and a sago-style dessert.

I was bothered by their occasional greeting, "Ladies and gentlemen, boys and girls..." They'd start their announcements like that. Boys and girls? Are we back in grade school? LOL. I perused through their available in-house movies and saw Vhong Navarro's "Da Possessed" in the selection. Their "Cine World" lists two Arabic-language movies that I wanted to watch, but weren't accessible. I settled with a Spanish-language film about a family besieged by an inveterate bully, until our protagonist (Daniel Candia) decides to take matters in his own hands after his daughter was abducted - in Alejandro Fernandez Almedras'  "To Kill A Man" (Matar a un Hombre), set in Tome, Chile.

Immigration Counters at Male International Airport.

The flight was bumpy and every time we shook, memories of the airline's recent disasters palpably crept in my mind. I couldn't help it. I was sure I wasn't alone thinking like that. The rest of the ride, I slept. I knew it would be beneficial if I arrive Male relaxed, despite the 3,000+ kilometer distance worth of travel from KL. It was a little past 10 when we touched down the tarmac.

I was given 30 days by the chatty immigration officer who didn't ask me about my trip. Last year, I was given 86 days, imagine that. I suspect it was a typo; my officer must have been woozy from stamping in a good number of tourists. This is what I love about the Maldivians, they're "chill people" and nothing seemed to faze them, so ultimately you're ushered into their capital with nonchalant welcome.

The KL-Male flight took 4 hours and 10 minutes, with 3-hour time difference between the two capitals (10PM in Male, 1AM in KL).

Male, the capital, geographically belongs to the North Male atoll specifically called "Kaafu Atoll", located right in the middle of the Maldivian archipelago (an almost remote speck of isles south of Sri Lanka spread across the Indian Ocean). The country, politically divided into 26 atolls, each with their own set of islands and sand banks totaling to 1,190. The islands are categorized into two: a "local island" and a "resort island" with Male as its administrative center. Of the 80 inhabited islands, 26 are "resort islands" leased and managed by varied resort conglomerates (some European, others Asian like the Thai-group running Anantara resorts).

WHAT MAKES THEM TICK - OR GETS THEM TICKING

The people have Indian features, though they're half way between Indian and Pakistani. If you blinked and got disoriented, you'd probably think of Jamaicans or some Caribbean population, curly hair, brown/light brown skin, laidback demeanor, and a comfortable, albeit impressive command of the English language. Majority of the population follows Islam. Thus it is important to understand that most local islands disallow bikinis; pornography (shhhh...); they don't drink alcohol; don't eat pork (so no pork dish is to be had anywhere in the country, even in "resort islands"); and there are no dogs - one of the few items on strict watch at the airport. Aren't they missing one of the most fulfilling experiences of human existence (i.e. owning a dog). Yes, Maldives don't like dogs which they consider "dirty", the way pigs are regarded by Muslims. This is, supposedly of "biblical" origin. Why then are Muslim countries like Malaysia or Indonesia rearing dogs. I have a Malaysian friend who's a dog lover, I asked a local. "They are not complete Muslims," was the reply I got. Huh?

BIBLES, MORMONS, ISRAELIS

Now here's another head scratcher: Religious articles (rosaries, bibles, anything that can be used to evangelize) are considered contraband. By saying this, we are underlining the fact that any form of religious propaganda outside Islam is prohibited. Mormons then, are not allowed - if they plan on doing their house-to-house. There isn't anything that protects freedom of worship or religion. Israelis, though not particularly "banned" from entering the country, are dealt with scorn in view of Israel's violent landgrabbing schemes at the Gaza. In the island of Himafushi, for example, the flag of Palestine is proudly raised on the shore, greeting everyone who arrives on ships. Sentiments against Israelis should be seriously considered, just to be on the safe side.

ISLAND ASSIGNMENTS

The country assigns islands for specific functions: Male is the capital. Hulhule is the airport island. Maafushi is the state penitentiary. Thilafushi is the main garbage disposal area (garbage ferries are transported from Male and other islands on a daily basis), thus you see an almost continuous incineration in that island. Is that even environmentally healthy? Maybe they've forgotten somehow that they have to help protect the environment because their country is being threatened by the effects of environmental abuse.

Local islands, which until recently, has never allowed foreigners (you'd need the permission of the village head or local police) have opened their doors to the world. Back then, tourists were essentially blocked from peeping into their lives. This was under the rule of a long-time despot. The common scenario - guests would arrive in the country then directly fly to their "resort islands" which are essentially autonomous - and not a reflection of real Maldivian living. In such luxurious islands, the administrative folks dictate the rules to be followed by their guests. Bikinis are thus allowed; so are gambling, partying into the wee hours, alcohol consumption, etc. But I digress.

Public ferry from Hulhule's airport to the capital Male.

After claiming my baggage and running them through X-ray (including my carry-on backpack), I leisurely walked out and started looking for someone bearing my name or the hotel name, Hotel Octave. A pleasant-looking guy shook my hand and walked with us to the jetty.

He bought each of our $2 ferry tickets from the jetty booth, just barely 20 steps from the exit, and we joined 3 dozens as we rode through the Laccadive Seas, heading towards Male ("muh-lei") which looked well lit this time around. Like my first arrival 10 months ago, the ride was relaxed - but dark inside the commuter boat! Male, which was 10 minutes away, beckoned. And I was ready to shake its hand - and embrace the open arms of its 300,000 nationals, a third of whom reside in the capital (considered the 5th most congested city in the world).

A typical narrow alley of the Maldivian capital. How do cars fit? They perform magic tricks!

Upon arrival in Male, we were met by the hotel's car. We drove way past the narrowest streets this side of the globe, through adequately illuminated shops and half-congested magus (streets), We reached the hotel which seemed smaller than I expected. Three people, including the front desk officer Shameen, was ready to check me in. I handed my Agoda voucher and my passport. They handed me a wet towel, a glass of orange juice, and a form to fill up. This airport pickup was complimentary and is part of the hotel's service, a perk similarly offered by other Male hotels. Shameen collected $2 (PhP90) each, the fare for our Maafushi ferry ride the next day. It was a relief I didn't have to do that myself - like last November. The process takes a chunk of  time. I'd rather spend it checking out the city which always seems like a netwrok of discordant maze cramped on little space and land mass.

It's believed that in this lifetime, the whole Maldivian archipelago, with its 1,190 islands divided politically into 26 atolls, would eventually disappear into the sea, bearing in mind that most of their atolls (coral island formations) are just 1 meter above sea level. No amount of tripods, sandbagging or human intervention can counter what nature allows. It is a sad fate for such a gorgeous archipelago. What becomes of the future generations of Maldivians?

One of the rooms of the mini-suite.

A standard room with separate single beds.

MINI-SUITE

We were taken to our rooms at the 6th floor (well, 7th actually), Mini-suite 602. The family room has 2 adjoining rooms, a queen and a regular bed; it even has a kitchen, a big refrigerator, a kitchen with an oven and a good sized bathroom. Nothing particularly Maldivian about this vertical dwelling, except the hospitality of the people running it. Typical warm and servile. Meanwhile, I could hear hallway conversations by Germans tourists a floor below.

Hotel Octave has 8 floors and 14 rooms so service is mostly the pampering kind. Breakfast costs $7 if this isn't included in your booking, although most offers in Agoda is inclusive. The front desk offers a "drawn" map and this is offered for free if you ask for one. They will help orient you and suggest where to take your "walking tour", though mostly they'd point you to a familiar set of sites (due to their proximity from each other) - the Presidential Jetty, the fish market, the souvenir shops, mosques, Sultan Park and the museum. I asked them to point me to the direction of the artificial beach and the Tsunami Monument which goes opposite the first set of sites.

Tip: Buying drinks like soda or bottled water and other toiletries is cheaper in convenience stores than in hotels. But who doesn't know that?

I freshened up in a breeze and made my way to the next-door shop to buy myself a Coke at 8 rufiyaa ($0.55/PhP24), plus 8% TGST tax (tourism goods and services tax). This was equivalent to a typical Pinoy sari-sari store, albeit well lighted and has fresh fruits and vegetables hanging down the shelves. I handed them my left-over rufiyaa (from last November), then the store closed once I stepped out.

Male shuts down at 11PM, like clock work. They may not have gargantuan shopping malls (or any mall for that matter), but the city bustles in its own mercantile activity until late in the night. I remember roaming Luxembourg at 6:30PM and finding most shops closed for the night. Malls in Manila close at 9PM (week day) or 10PM (week end).

Male isn't the posh capital that most people associate it with. In fact, it is like an Indian city minus the touts, but is nonetheless congested and tight with very limited sites for an eager tourist. Ironically, the country famed for exquisitely beautiful beaches don't even have a beach resort within Male until the local government thought of making one, inspiringly called (hold your breath!) "Artificial Beach"! No malls, a small park called "Sultan Park", a two-level museum, a fish market, some mosques and one operational movie house with limited screenings.

AIR ASIA REASON

Hotels are relatively small and indecently expensive - so it's no place for those with tight budget. This was, in fact, one of Air Asia's "reasons" when it wrote to us (i,e, that many of their passengers complain of the dearth of accommodation in Male) when they cancelled all their flights to Maldives in February early this year - and you wonder how that exactly concerns their flying business. Most visitors breeze through the capital if they don't make their sea taxi transfers to their resort islands. Most sea planes stop operation after 5PM. Understandably, sea planes cost an arm and a leg - usually $200-300 per person - just to get to your "resort island". And that's just one way. This makes travel in Maldives (the term literally translates to "The islands of Male") quite unique and expensive.

I was glad that phone roaming was seamless, but I noticed a new phone service operating in the country, aside from Dhiragu and Wataniya - Ooredoo blinked on my phone. I was connected to the world, and to home - so that was a minor source of comfort.

I wanted to re-read my journal from my first visit. I knew that I didn't read as much as I should for this second visit, but things were "fresher". Regardless, I felt that there was much to do. My mind was once again a bustle of activity and a thicket of synapses working on overdrive. I am pumped and excited, and there's electricity shooting through my lower extremities and up through my spine. You can't mistake the adrenaline rushing around my circulation. That's always a good thing.

This is the Eye in the Sky.

Hotel Octave is accessible through a narrow street called Kaaminee Magu and is a block or two away from Majeedi Magu, Male's main commercial thoroughfare. 

The view from my room.

A Night in the Malaysian Capital - The Long Road to Oz Part 1

On my way to a land down under, I had to swing by Kuala Lumpur for a couple of days of relaxation. I wasn’t sure what was going through my mind, to be honest. There were indications this was going to be one heck of an adventure. I could say I wasn’t exactly nervous. I am so used to packing and flying that the usual nerves that come with traveling has evolved into calm. God, I miss the jolt of electricity that used to punctuate these arrivals. To start the journey, Air Asia emailed me for an unexpected “task”; that as a frequent flyer, I’ve been chosen to be their “Eye in the Sky” for my flight from Clark Field in Pampanga to the Malaysian Capital. Was this a practical joke? Or has serendipity played a little game on me? Am I an “Eye in the Sky”? Guess.

There was a shortlist of things I had to take note of: How many people were on my queue at the check in counter? How long did it take to accommodate these people before my turn came? The difficult part was getting the complete name of the check-in counter staff and the flight attendant who served me. Did they seriously think I was going to ask for their phone numbers next? Ultimately, I had to ask for the attendant’s name because they didn’t wear name tags. They’d ask why, and I had to explain myself. They’d be anxious and I’d have to explain further.

At the end of this task, I will be sent a set of questions I had to answer online. If I complete the task, I am guaranteed a 50 ringgit (US $15) voucher which I could use for my next booking. How peachy, right? I was lucky there was a Filipina staff on board the flight so it was easier to explain to her because the rest of the girls were uncomfortable. Weren’t they briefed about the program? It isn’t as though the “Eye in the Sky” could guess their names without asking. The attendant had an unusual name – Lyrizza Nyx Nadiama, the prettiest of the lot. How apropos. After all, the year’s reigning Miss World is a Filipina.

The rest of the KL flight was uneventful. After clearing immigration, I hopped into a Skybus, half empty, lugging around my 12-kilogram bag. At high noon, the comfortable whiff of the AC eventually induced me to sleep, canceling out an hour of my life into a dreamless slumber. Upon reaching KL Sentral (the city’s main transport hub), it was an easy walk to the Monorail; paid my 1.80 ringgit to Imbi station, then walked to my first hotel, Beltif, along Changkat Thambi Dollah Street. 

It was another normal day in the capital. With nothing planned for the rest of the day, I took a quick meal (below) then decided to just disappear into the dark world of movie halls: Hong Kong’s “Cold War”, a police thriller about the mysterious disappearance of a fully loaded police van, including the five highly trained officers who manned the vehicle. It stars some of Hong Kong most gorgeous cast too (and three male Superstars – Aaron Kwok, Andy Lau and Tony Leung). The second movie was a Tamil flick called “Thuppakki” (The Gun) which follows the adventures of a special agent (Vijay) as he traces the whereabouts of the 12 sleeper cells who wrecked havoc during the Mumbai terrorist attack. I am not too fond of plump guys shaking their booties all over Jammu and Mumbai, but this Kollywood number, the second highest grossing Indian film of 2012, was indeed a compelling nail biter with an equally unnerving antihero.

That night, I slept with images of the Indian army and their overweight lead star shaking their derriere to a pulse pounding song.  You think that was healthy? But who can say the same about their first day in Kuala Lumpur?  

This is the Eye in the Sky!

Sinfully delicious noodle dish admixed with slices of chicken at Berjaya Times Square.

Sunny Luk and Longman Leung's "Cold War"

A.R. Murugadoss's "Thuppakki" (The Gun) - Dancing soldiers in the midst of terrorist attacks. Where else can you find that combination? Only in India. ;)

Bintang Walk near Pavilion mall. 

Clark International Airport - Angeles City, Pampanga Part 1

I was initially reluctant to take my flights from Clark International Airport, renamed to a corrupt-sounding Diosdado Macapagal International Airport (DMIA) by a bottom-scraping iron-fist! I’ve spent sleepless nights debating with myself if I should give it a go.

For one, I was resistant to the idea of traveling all the way to Angeles City, Pampanga – a hefty 85 kilometers from Manila – just to ride my plane. But Philtranco has made it a little less painful by placing a shuttle station in 2 locations: Pasay and SM Megamall (Mandaluyong City)! Still, prepping up for a trip will entail a minimum of 3 additional hours from humanity’s short lifespan!

DOING THE MATH!

Let’s say, if you have to be at the airport (the advised) 3 hours prior to departure, add 3 more hours (to wait for the bus then take the ride to Clark Field) – that is a backbreaking 6 hour wait already! Add 3 ½ hours more for the travel duration, then you would have lost 9 ½ hours just to get to, say KL, or Jakarta, or BKK!

9 ½ hours of transit will already take a toll on your physical stamina, as well as the physiologic limits of human verve and vitality! The minute you step down the tarmac, you are one pruned out, energy-ravaged individual! What a way to start a journey, indeed!

But you shall take Air Asia, instead of Cebu Pacific. That, in itself, is a little joy to behold!

I first did this leg of travel last November 2009 (9 months ago) for my India/Nepal journeys. I have since stepped on Clark Field 6 times! And there are obvious physical changes!

THROUGH THE MOTIONS

The bus ride takes roughly 2 hours. It will drive you near the airport entrance where you will be asked to show your ticket and passport. Luggage is passed through x-ray, while you are frisked. Once you’ve claimed your luggage, you see right in front of you a maze-like path that leads to the check-in counter.

Clark Field is a small sized, low-cost terminal; a down-graded version of Malaysia's LCCT. But make no mistake, this isn't Taney County's M. Graham Clark Field Airport in Missouri (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Clark_Taney_Co_Airport_6-1-09_by_KTrimble.jpg).

Remember Manila’s Domestic Airport back in the 90’s? You get the picture.

Clark International Airport's Departure Hall and Entrance

CHECKING-IN 101 FOR DUMMIES!

Proceed to the Travel Tax counter first (P1,620 for economy tickets). Overseas Filipino Workers (OFW’s) pay much less, of course. This counter is located to your left, upon entry. Once paid, proceed to your check-in counter. Give your passport and ticket, and deposit your check-in baggage! Secure your passport, ticket and your boarding pass with corresponding claim stubs for your checked luggage! Then proceed to the Immigration Area where you are to pay PhP600 (It was P550 in November and March. By July, it was hiked to P600. In NAIA, they charge a fixed rate of PhP750). Get an Immigration Card (Embarkation Card), and fill it up! Then join the queue at the Immigration Counter where you shall be officially stamped out! Pass through a 2^nd X-ray scan and a 2^nd frisking, then you’re already at the Pre-Departure Area!

If you haven’t had your meal, there are several shops where cheap meals could be had. There’s even a sit-down restaurant at the extreme end! Fill your stomach with something. Allow it to settle down, then use the john (whether you feel like using the toilet or not) before your expected boarding.

Clark Field’s pre-departure area is spacious, with red seats running parallel from each other. The view to the airport runway used to be visible, but since the renovation, they have closed the view with a concrete wall and a stair that leads to nowhere. Instead of just stepping directly up front, you now need to make your way through the side and head down a stair.

It is funny how renovations have turned boarding into a more complicated procedure. They’ve dismantled the pair of sheds that used to welcome transits! You see, some renovations are ridiculously planned not for the convenience of the travelers, but for the commission of the contractors! As I said, even the new name reeks of a foul stench!

A LITTLE HISTORY

Clark International Airport (aka Disodado Macapagal International Airport) is located on an area of the economic zone formerly utilized as the Clark Air Base, which was closed in late 1991 by the U.S. Air Forces after the explosion of Mount Pinatubo. This was carried out through the unanimous decision of the Philippine Parliament not to renew lease of the air base to the U.S. government. It was unfortunately rechristened to its new name in 1993 in memory of a former president. In 2007, a Korean consortium began a $2 million study plan that would eventually expand Clark Field into a $1.7 billion refurbishment. And you wonder whose pockets get the bulk of the lot, since this early, I don’t see an inkling of even ¼ of this amount. Unless you consider the new baggage conveyors at the arrival area as something worth all that! LOL

These alleged developments will transition DMIA into the eventual premier airport in the country, which is really a bad idea because it is just too far (85 km) from Metro Manila! Whoever thought of this had Economics-fueled brains the size of a pea!

Arrival and Waiting Area

The passenger movement of DMIA has exponentially increased from 7,880 passengers in 2003 to over 600,000 in 2009! Various carriers are starting to make use of Clark Field for their operations which include the following: Air Asia (KL and Kota Kinabalu), Cebu Pacific (Bangkok, Cebu, HK, Macau, Singapore), SEA Air (Boracay via Caticlan), Asiana Airlines (Incheon and Seoul), Tiger Airways (Singapore), Spirit of Manila (Taipei & Taoyuan), Kang Pacific (Fujairah – an easternmost Emirate country), Pacific Flier (Koror, Palau), as well as several cargo planes!

P.S. Laptops are to be hand-carried. Malaysian airports don't allow laptops checked in as part of your baggage!

Part 2 on Shops inside the Pre-Departure Hall, Images at Clark and Philtranco Bus Service schedule: http://eye-in-the-blue-sky.blogspot.com/2010/08/clark-international-airport-angeles_05.html

This is the Eye in the Sky!

Arrival Area has several food stalls, bus and taxi counters, phone booth, toilet.

From the entrance, you have to go through an X-ray Check and frisking for security check. The Travel Tax counter for Filipino travelers is that white counter at the right corner of the photo.

Queue for your Check-in once you have paid your travel tax (PhP1,620). Business class ticket holders pay almost PhP3,000. The encircled one is an American who kept jumping off lines and no one called his attention! He was supposed to stand behind me, now look where he is! And yes, he smelled of alcohol! We came from the same bus! Some Americans can be so shameless!

Pay your airport tax at this counter (PhP600) then fill out the Immigration/Embarkation Card before proceeding to the Immigration Counter inside to be stamped out!

The 2nd xray check before entering the Pre-Departure Area.

Pre-Departure Area

From last November 2009, you leave the pre-departure area through the front door, directly facing your plane. This shed has since been removed, and the exit has been redirected at the side of the hall as of July 2010.

COMPARE:

Before: The old Welcome Sign as of November 2009 and March/April 2010.

After: The new DMIA Welcome Facade as of July 2010.

Baggage counter. New conveyors at the arrival hall.

KL uses "Clarke Field" instead of Diosdado Macapagal International Airport!

Kuala Terengganu Tales v.01 – On Causing Flight Delay and Arriving at Sultan Mahmud Airport

Kuala Terengganu had been beckoning me for a visit for the last 3 years. When the opportunity finally came, I booked a flight. To be honest about it, I didn’t come prepared, not the way I usually do with other places, but if you check out your Lonely Planet, it doesn’t really offer much; just a few pages easily readable in 15 minutes.

Terengganu or KT is Malaysia’s East Coast, the bailiwick of the country’s opposition, and is the capital of the oil producing state of Malaysia. My friend Irene is from Terengganu, but is now based in London. I met her while on a bus in Chiangmai and we’ve since kept in touch.

KT is 455 kilometers from KL, thus a day out from the capital is not possible. There are flights from air carriers like Air Asia, Malaysia Air (the first Boeing 747 to land at the Sultan Mahmud Airport was last October 11, 2008) and Firefly (to and from places like Singapore, Penang, Johor Bahru, Langkawi, but no Kuala Lumpur). Air travel takes just 50 minutes. Air Asia usually leaves KL at 7AM. Return trip to KL departs at 4PM but this is unfortunately hobbled by frequent changes of schedule. Mine was moved from 4PM to 10 PM. Air Asia is starting to crumble with frequent sked changes that inform you from either your mobile (my KT flight) or by email (my March trip to Penang).

When to visit? As I would realize later, December isn’t the best time to find ones self in KT. The rains during the monsoon season (November to February/March) don’t let up. And I would be there at its wettest!

Causing Delay

I woke up at 4:30 AM, then took a 15 ringgit taxi to KL Sentral to catch the Skybus to LCCT. I had a lot of time, so I was relaxed waiting for my boarding call. I was seated across Gate 9 where I was supposed to board. LCCT was buzzing with activity. The last 2 years have transformed this once sleepy no-frills airport into a busy one. It was 6:40 (departure at 7) and still, Gate 9 was shut! Ten minutes later, I heard my name being called. They were waiting for me. I froze and realized they transferred the boarding gate to Gate 1 – at the other side of the hall! I jumped and made a dash to Gate 1 which was already closed. I told the attendant that I heard my name. She scrambled and reached for her card key. As the door opened, I sprinted to the nearby Air Asia plane, breathless and anxious.

I climbed the stairs leading to the plane, only to realize once I was inside that it was empty! Oh for Pete’s sake. The day was starting out wrong! I went down. A tarmac personnel pointed me to the other plane. With backpack flopping behind me, I finally made it inside my plane. I half expected people throwing scornful glances, but they were unmindful of my entry. I took my pre-booked seat and relaxed. I’ve never been a cause of delay and it unnerved me. There is no such thing as Filipino-time, only undisciplined people.

The flight was half full and uneventful. The very few Caucasians on board were headed to Pulau Redang, one of Malaysia’s most beautiful beaches (their Boracay), just a boat away from Marang (a town 45 minutes from KT). I retrieved a photocopy of the Kuala Terengganu (KT) entry from my Lonely Planet (Asia on Shoestring). It was too thick and I didn’t want to carry that edition as I already had 2 other LP’s with me – Nepal and the thick Indian Lonely Planet. I re-read it and felt it was inadequate. Oh well. It was too late for regrets. I called for my pre-booked meal – Chicken Rice, which was braised chicken and steamed rice. It was my favorite from the available choices – their chicken foccacia was horrible and is only good as a tummy-filling snack.

Fifty minutes later, we landed on drizzling Terengganu. Sultan Mahmud Airport was medium-sized. The exteriors depicted local influences. The sophisticated gleam benefitted from the 200 million ringgit ($59 million or a staggering PhP3.2 billion) poured by the government to upgrade it into an international airport. Malaysia Airline has seasonal flights that will take passengers to the Mecca Holy land via Jeddah and Medina. Firefly has flights to Singapore and even Subang. 

Though the airport feels small for a 3 billion peso make-over, the interiors are tastefully decorated. It boasts of a hotel-style lobby with cascading water dripping from a series of dark panels; huge round lighting fixtures, mini- ponds by the entrance, and delicate wood carvings hanging down the ceiling.

I was unsure if I had to submit my baggage for inspection as I headed out. This must have been obvious because the bemoustached inspector called my attention. Damn! “Yes?” I said. “What’s your nationality,” he asked. I said, “Filipino!” this time gaining my self-assured voice that belied how knackered I was. I had 2 hours of sleep and had a month of constant mobility behind me. To my surprise, he waved his hand and I was on my way out. I decided to observe the movement outside. No hurry there.

The drizzle started to turn to rain. I ventured into the covered walkway that lead to the road in front, but there weren’t any buses. I went back and sat by the benches in front. A mixed film crew of Caucasians and Chinese guys scurried around, getting their rides out of Sultan Mahmud. The atmosphere was bereft of anxiety. People enjoy a languorous pace and smile around here, I should too, I thought. I went back inside and finally gave in to the prepaid taxi counter (Counter 1, the first booth by the entrance).

I told the lady I wanted to go to TK Travellers Inn located along Sultan Sulayman Street. She nodded, and I paid 25 ringgit. Most locations at the city center will cost you 25 ringgit ($7.40/PhP340). I marveled at how uncongested, how clean the place was. As the scenery slid past before me, I soaked at how rural Terengganu looked. There were very few vehicles plying the streets. There was a laidback demeanor, with few people walking outside. I don’t see a lot of taxis - nor trishaws that the LP or wikitravel mentioned. The airport is located 15 minutes from the town center. It felt longer.

There was a stack of cumulo-nimbus clouds hanging low. I was worried about the rains which have reverted back into seductive trickles.

This is the Eye in the Sky!

The elegant lobby of Sultan Mahmud Airport. This photo only courtesy of flickr's chee.hong & chleong.net.

Waiting hall just outside the airport entrance. Prepaid taxis queue for their turn just in front of this hall.

Covered hallway leading to the main road.

White sand beaches of Kuala Terengganu, the East Coast! This photo only courtesy of www.tripadvisor's fozzie58.

Up Next:

KT Tales v.01 - Causing Flight Delays - http://eye-in-the-blue-sky.blogspot.com/2010/01/kuala-terengganu-tales-v01-on-causing.html

KT Tales v.02 - Get Me Out of Terengganu! - http://eye-in-the-blue-sky.blogspot.com/2010/01/kuala-terengganu-tales-v02-get-me-out.html

KT Tales v.03 - Masjid Abidin and the Bus Journey to KL - http://eye-in-the-blue-sky.blogspot.com/2010/01/kuala-terengganu-tales-v03-masjid.html