Phnom Penh Part 6 - National Museum and Wat Phnom Hill

If you’ve been to the spectacular temples of Angkor Wat, then a visit to the National Museum in Phnom Penh is a must. In the four corners of this building, relics, tablets, engravings, statues and priceless Angkorian art and treasures are on display. Each item is labeled with its name, the temple origin (ex. A stone tablet would be marked with “Ta Promh, year 1218, fertility symbols”), and capsule explanations of the relic. I find this fascinating as I get to associate it with those temples in Angkor Wat. Unfortunately, like most museums, photography inside is prohibited and I couldn’t even steal photos from my cellphone cam as there are watchful manongs in every corner.

BEAUTIFUL

Located opposite the Royal Palace, you enter the grounds through its left side entrance. At the corner, you can purchase your entrance ticket of $3 (12,400 riel or PhP141.40). I took my time outside, gulping my Coke fix before roaming the front garden, which has Angkorian statues on display. This is an area where you are allowed to take photographs, and tourists usually take advantage of this privilege as it has samples of what could be seen inside. Although you can take your camera with you, the museum personnel are ever watchful so I behaved. The museum itself contains an excellent collection from Cambodia’s golden age of Angkor. From roaming the four corners, you can proceed to the lovely central courtyard, an open area with ponds and a temple where photography is once again allowed. I took my time reading through each artifacts and pieces, transporting myself to an era of kings and slaves and an ancient civilization. It was a hoot!

After an enjoyable tour inside, I sat at a bench facing the courtyard. There was a Pinoy family preoccupied with taking photographs. I wanted to say hello, but several encounters with Pinoys during my journeys within the last 3 years have taught me to steer clear from my kababayans. I was actually itching to speak Tagalog, or rub elbows with them just to feel a little less alone, but I was able to control myself. I dislike snobs but experience is a darn good teacher and I have been taught well. Let’s just say that my kababayans have not been my favorite acquaintances from these trips, and I’d rather not write about these instances to avoid painting an unpalatable image among other nationalities who get to read this.

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FLOODS AND WASHED UP BUDDHAS

Wat Phnom is one of the most important pagodas in Phnom Penh. Built in 1373, it stands at 27 meters and is the tallest religious structure in the city. The temple was built on an artificial hill by the wealthy widow Daun Chi Penh after a great flood washed statues of Buddha downstream. There have been many additions to the original shrines over the centuries. It is the center of city celebration for the Cambodian New Year, and Pchum Benh. The hill is the capital’s green space with lots of tall trees surrounding it. Gallivanting monkeys, an elephant (a pricey ride at $15 for a roundabout – gosh, an elephant ride in Thailand only costs 200 baht or less than $6! ) and amputee beggars (victims of landmines) are a common visual fixture.

FEE SKIPPING

There is a $1 (4000 riel) entrance fee if you make your way up the hill to visit the Wat (temple). However, I realized there was a way to avoid paying the entrance. I climbed the hill from the side, over dirt mounds, and reached the side grounds of the temple. Since it was an unconscious effort to avoid paying for the entrance, I didn’t point out that glitch. The temple was no great shakes either – just a series of Buddha statues of different sizes bunched up together. It was a simple temple with hardly anyone there, but myself. It was an easy descent too, as I made my way down the main stairway. Under a giant canopy, I sat at a bench, observing locals. A giggly blond eventually found herself riding the gentle elephant. Tei, my motorcycle driver, patiently waited for me. I liked the unobtrusive demeanor of this arrangement. I dictated everything – and for a very minimal fee, and there was a degree of comfort in knowing that a Khmer was looking out for me too. You will never believe how much I was able to agree for a whole-day transport and guide. The Eye in the Sky had a grin from ear to ear.

The Wat Phnom hill.

Giggly blond meets gentle giant.

The front entrance of Wat Phnom.

I've seen his photos from other traveler's blogs. He is a daily fixture at the footsteps of the temple. I'm glad to have taken his photo too.

Wat Phnom

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Here’s what wikipedia has to say about Pchum Benh:

Prachum Benda ("Ancestors' Day"), more commonly known as Pchum Ben, is a Cambodian religious festival, culminating in celebrations on the 15th day of the tenth month in the Khmer Calendar. (In 2009, the national holiday falls on the 28th - 30th of September in the Gregorian calendar.) The day is a time when most Cambodians pay their respects to deceased relatives. People cook meals for monks, bring offerings to the temple and throw rice near the temple early in the morning, believing that the ghosts of their ancestors will receive it. This is equivalent to the Philippines' All Soul’s Day or Mexico’s Dia de los Muertos (Day of the Dead).

The following photos have been included for completion:

Pchum Benh celebration in Cambodia. This photo above is courtesy of sophonrith.blogspot.com. Please visit his site for local musings on Khmer life.

Dia de los Muertos celebrated by Mexicans the world over (above and below).

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Day of the Dead, Mexico. This photo only courtesy of Victor Hugo dela Fuente Flores.