Memories of the Fallen in Taukkyan (Myanmar)

From Yangon (Myanmar), on your way to Bagan up north, you can get off your ride and check out this memorial cemetery where 2,700 British soldiers perished during World War II. The inclusive period of deaths was placed between 1939 and 1945. Between each grave were plants (like roses) beautifully maintained. Some unnamed graves were marked with "A soldier from the 1939-1945 war" written on their tombs. In front of all these wrote: "Their names (sic) liveth for evermore."

If you like almost-deserted spaces, pillars, and reminders of the follies of war, then Allied War Memorial Cemetery is worth a short detour. The cemetery is located in Taukkyan, in the township of Mingaladon, about 35 kilometers from Yangon.

This is the Eye in the Sky.

This photo only courtesy of cwgc.org.

Nakhon Pathom – Thailand’s Oldest City

It was a mild morning in Bangkok. I had late breakfast at a McDonald’s junior inside the Pratunam-Indra Regent Center. Hash browns always taste heavenly when traveling, I am not sure why! I strolled back to my hotel, just a stone’s throw from the mall. I kept seeing Barack Obama shirts, fastly becoming fixtures along with those Bangkok tourist shirts. I slipped into the nearby 7-11 (there used to be 3 along Rajprarop Road, now there are only 2) to buy a bottle of water (15 bhat or $0.40). On the shelf, I was surprised to find a video of Kiyoshi Kurosawa’s latest, a surprise drama from the master of suspense thriller – “Tokyo Sonata”. I’ve been looking for Kurosawa’s 2006 movie called “Loft”, but I couldn’t find it anywhere so I am pretty stoked finding his Cannes entry.

Feeling smug about my unexpected find, I went back to my room to secure my backpack. I was heading out of the city to a place called Nakhon Pathom. Not familiar? It should be! After all, this is allegedly Thailand’s very first city – way before Bangkok was even conceived. Let me rephrase that – Nakhon Pathom is Thailand’s oldest city.

As a rule, I am uncomfortable with Bangkok tuktuks. Why a noisy motorbike ride when there’s the reliable cheap taxi? But with the suggestion of my hotel’s “concierge”, I hailed a tuktuk (70 baht or $2 from Indra Regent) to take me to the Victory Monument. It didn’t take 15 minutes as it was just straight ahead. I started roaming the place looking for Pathon Yothin street. Went up the overpass, and back. Look for the huge Canon billboard, pointed Lonely Planet. That didn’t really help, as the Canon billboard seemed to point elsewhere.

Next tack: Ask! I was looking for mini-buses, but I wasn’t sure how these mini-buses look! When you are looking for something, you should know what you to look for! After a couple of directions, I found a branch of Big C – the department store! Right in front of it is a makeshift table selling tickets (60 baht or $1.75) to the mini-bus to Nakhon Pathom! The vehicles turned out to be A/C “vans”. There were 4 other people inside the van, waiting for our departure. But as soon as my butt sunk into the chair, the engine hummed to life and we left. Two hours later, I found myself somewhere unfamiliar. Haha. All the other passengers have gone off. The driver deposited me in front of a convenience store.

Victory Monument (อนุสาวรีย์ชัยสมรภูมิ, Anusawari Chai Samoraphum) is a large military monument in Bangkok, located in Ratchathewi district, northeast of central Bangkok, at the center of a traffic circle at the intersection of Phahonyothin Road, Phaya Thai Road, and Ratchawithi Road. The monument was erected in June 1941 to commemorate the Thai "victory" in the Franco-Thai War, a brief conflict waged against the French colonial authorities in Indo-China.

I went inside the store to ask if I was indeed in Nakhon Pathom, and if they could tell me where Phra Pathom Chedi was! I was greeted with blank stares; I might as well ask if I was in the vicinity of Uranus or Pluto! Little did I know that if I was to walk straight ahead for 2-3 more blocks, I’d snag into a roundabout where Nakhon Pathom Chedi was!

I waited for a taxi – and it took some 15 minutes! The driver offered to take me to the chedi – and back to Bangkok for just 350 baht! Since I was obviously lost, 350 seemed reasonable! What is 350 baht really - $10.40? This was one of those times when you wish you had a companion to share the burden of a cost. The driver will be waiting for me while I navigate the temple complex. I bargained for 1 ½ hours and he agreed.

Nakhon Pathom’s claim to fame is Phra Pathom Chedi.

Phra Pathom Chedi is actually a temple complex built in the 6^th century by Theravada buddhists, under the leadership of Khmer King Suryavarman I of Angkor (Cambodia). The main chedi is considered to be the world’s tallest Buddhist monument, rising to about 127 meters or about 417 feet high!

The central sanctuary (called the boht) is a circular structure (building), surrounded by enclaves of Buddhas in different poses, forms and colors. Opposite the boht is the Phrapathomchedi Museum which was close (it was the Buddhist New Year after all). The Museum is unavailable to the public every Mondays and Tuesdays, but open from 9 AM to 4 PM otherwise. Although the temple complex is free, a visit to this small museum is charged with 20 baht ($0.60) for tourists.

Parking outside the complex was spacious and very clean but unremarkable. I headed up a short concrete stairs; the surrounding walls were immaculate white. Once in the main complex, I saw a prayer hall to my left – an ongoing monotone of chanting was overheard. A peek inside revealed a full house of monks inside a smoky room. Noticeable at the smoky main altar were photos of the well loved King and Queen. Incense wafted out. To my left was the Museum. I headed forward to get to the central sanctuary (boht).

There were 6-7 foot bells that people had to hit 3x with a stick – to summon luck! I was delighted with the variety of forms of the Buddhas, each one with Lotus flowers and incense offerings right under. We walked around the grounds to find another “altar” of sorts with a huge standing Buddha gleaming with gold, and people were scurrying around to touch its feet or offer flowers. There were monks facilitating and blessing the crowd – and I noticed that practicing buddhists had to kneel down or position themselves lower than a monk’s head! Otherwise, it will be misconstrued as a sign of disrespect. There was a queue of brass and silver cups that people had to ceremoniously deposit coins to; a huge red scroll of paper where the faithful can write down “intentions”; some money tree. It was an interesting time to observe how the locals practice their faith! If truth be told, Catholicism’s rites somehow parallel to what I have seen so far.

The whole “tour” lasted for a little over an hour, and I had spare time to walk out of the temple complex and rotund to somehow see Nakhon Pathom outside the temple grounds. Turned out to be more than I expected! Before I left, I held the beating stick and gently banged the bell 3x. Malay mo, I might get lucky!

This is the Eye in the Sky!

Location: Nakhon Pathom - 56 km west of Bangkok, and will take approximately 2 hours from Bangkok.

Vocabulary: chedi – (noun) is a mound-like structure or a bell-shaped tower containing buddha relics. This term is interchangeable with “stupa”, or even “pagoda”.

Next post: Part 2 of Nakhon Pathom – More buddhas and more photos here - http://eye-in-the-blue-sky.blogspot.com/2009/07/images-from-phra-pathom-chedi-nakhon.html

Beat the bell thrice...

Money Tree...

Kiyoshi Kurosawa's Tokyo Sonata - my DVD find at a 7-11...

Out of the temple and into the city proper...

Dining with KC at Mesa Restaurant - Greenbelt 5 Makati

AFTER NICOLAS

AFTER TAKING my friend out to watch Nicolas Cage in Alex Proyas’ apocalyptic mind-bender, “Knowing” – my third time, so I was about to barf, to be honest – we decided to skim through the other restaurants at the posh Greenbelt 5 area in the city of Makati, Manila’s financial district. Though I have been there several times recently (to process a visa for a trip within the week), I needed to seriously check out the “new” restaurant scene. There has to be more than the snail-paced service of Fely J (a waiter took 20 minutes to see us – and they only had 1 other occupied table that time) or the ubiquitous Cibo. Chateau is there but you don’t always relish on delicious, but decidedly overpriced gastronomic delight. Expensive restaurants are perfect for milestone celebrations, not habitual day-outs with friends.

Mesa, the fine-dine branch of the La Mesa Grill group of restaurants, was having their soft opening! It was perfect since I was craving for some Filipino food. We were ushered inside to a simple but elegant table. Huge orange sofa chairs and tastefully cloistered bamboo walls with sophisticated lacquer gloss, medium sized hanging lamps, and glistening wooden tables all make for a cozy place perfect for a laidback atmosphere with friends or family to hang out with!

You have to admit, Greenbelt hardly counts as a major spot where mums and dads can take their family to. Mesa conveniently covers this crowd. This isn’t saying that a hip hopping crowd can’t hang out here. Another delectable come-on is its rates that, on average, range from PhP150 ($3.15) to P300 ($6.30)! Compared to similar restaurants in the area, MESA is a very affordable fine-dine option! Finally, there's food that is actually cheaper than Greenbelt's movie ticket (PhP170).

How was the food: except for a slightly careless dangling serving utensils as food was being served (this restaurant after all prides itself as “fine dine” – the waitress said so), every bit of what we ordered was delicious, we wanted more! It was too late when I realized I should have ordered their CrispChon (lechon – or roast pig). A one-sixth order only costs PhP799 (one whole – P3999; one half – P1999; one fourth – P1099). For the veggie crazed urbanite, there’s the steamed okra (P100), mix vegetables (P120), laing (P120), sigarilias (P180), asparagus tips (P180), pinakbet with bangus belly (P180).

It was too bad that their elephant clams (“diwal”) – lusciously photographed on their coffee-table style menu – wasn't available. It doesn't stand quite right to have some unavailable items on a menu – not on a soft opening, at least! Waiting service was impeccable, except that my companion’s brewed coffee took 35 minutes to arrive – and after 3 follow ups! They've forgotten 3x! But then these are birthing pains!

Giant squid stuffed with meat and vegetables - PhP300 ($6.30). This squid was huge!

A STAR AND BIRTHING PAINS

Well into our late lunch, there was a commotion! Kiko – the soft-spoken senator, Francis Pangilinan, made an entrance. And people were scurrying around like adrenalinized ants. The popular senator took his seat. Not a second later, a star literally descended from the heavens ! KC Concepcion - with her manager Shirley Kwan - sat at the table next to her stepdad! I tried not to look, but Chiqui was obviously impressed. She gushed, “KC is really beautiful!” I turned directly to my right, where KC was seated. And I just couldn’t help but admire! I sighed then vigorously sliced through my salivatory caramelized garlic pork. I relished on such fantastic atmosphere with a dear friend, a luminous movie star in my midst, and more importantly, delicious food that allowed me to shop elsewhere afterwards.

Funny! I was just at the La Mesa Grill-Trinoma, several days ago (their adobo flakes is to-die for). Senator Kiko is part owner of the La Mesa Grill group of restaurants. Interested parties for special occasions should call this Greenbelt branch at (02)7280886.

Brewed coffee was PhP45; coke in can - PhP55; 12% VAT! Tipping isnt necessary coz the whole hulabaloo comes with a service charge - mine was just PhP44. Regardless, I left a change of more than PhP50. For what i am used to paying for dining in Greenbelt, I was pleased with my bill - and what I was left with!

Caramelized garlic pork - tacky presentation, but delectable, down to the last slice - PhP190 ($3.90).

Baked tahong (mussels) topped with cheese, 12 pieces - PhP150 ($3.10).

Tinapa rice - rice peppered with smoked fish flakes with stir fried rice, topped with tomato and salted egg - PhP190 ($3.90).

Beautiful beyond food - KC Concepcion! Late lunch with stepdad Kiko.

There were more than a dozen waiters even at a dead hour of 4PM.

Greenbelt 5

After our sumptuous meal at Mesa, we hurried to Greenbelt 5's Classic Confections (near Fely J, 2nd floor), another great pastry shop with the most unbelievably tasty cakes at very affordable prices. These are home-baked cakes that range between PhP150-190. Can you believe it?

This chocolate cake is just P195!

Easter eggs being sold already at Classic Confections!

This is the Eye in the Sky.