Myoeji Temple's Lush Surroundings (Yame City, Fukuoka Prefecture)

Myoeji Temple was mostly deserted when we visited. It's an idyllic space filled with plants and trees, as well as a red Chinese-style temple at the side, seemingly misplaced in Japan's mostly earth-toned temples. Like the temples featured in our previous post, Moeji is part of the Yame-Fukushima Traditional Architectural Preservation Zone.

Yame City Map in Japanese

Yame City's Shofukuji and Muryojuin Temples (Fukuoka Prefecture, Kyushu)

Shofukuji Temple, Yame City

The temples in the central area of Yame City aren't particularly striking but they reek with local color. During our visit, it would intermittently rain so our time to check out the surroundings was limited. It didn't help that these temples were closed. 

Shofukuji Temple has a children's playground at its lawn. It has a more traditional design, with wooden panels fronting the hall. Muryojuin Temple, on the other hand, was machiya style, with off-white walls and a white painted door at the top of the stairs. The pathway leading to it is lined by stone lanterns. There's a suffusion of plants at the garden.  

These temples are part of the Yame-Fukushima Traditional Architecture Preservation Zone that also includes Daitoji Temple, north of Shofukuji, and Hanyain Temple, south east of Muryojuin Temple. Further east of this area, there are two other temples - Myoeji Temple and Saishoji Temple.

Muryojuin Temple, Yame City

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Fukushima District's Machiya Houses in Yame City (Fukuoka Prefecture, Kyushu)

Some of the most beautiful of Japanese countryside I have seen are in the remote corners of Yame City in Kyushu. That's a fact that doesn't need sugarcoating. Thus when I read about Fukushima District's row of "Machiya" (traditional town houses), I knew that's where I wanted to go first. Take me there!

White Clay Walls

There are about 130 documented buildings of varying designs from the Meiji, Taisho and Showa era; houses of merchants and craftsmen. The walls were made of white clay to protect the houses from fire. 

But they have ceased to be residential houses. Very few were turned into cafes. Most have been turned into shops selling tea, paper lanterns, miso shops, altar stores, family confectioneries, seed suppliers, fish paste shops and family grocers. Without a doubt, these made the area vibrant, and the central point of Yame. On paper, the whole she-bang sounded exciting.

In 1587, Fukushima Castle was built here. A town eventually grew and flourished around the castle. But in 1620, about 33 years after the castle was put up, Kurome Domain took control of the area and the castle had to be demolished. I think there was a law that prohibited having more than one castle in a locality. Nowadays, the houses were turned into stores and workshops for handicraft and other products, 

Hakata to Chikugo City

This is where I came to visit. From Fukuoka, I took a JR train from Hakata Station to Hainuzuka Station. The JR staff had to consult a thick book of JR schedules since they weren't very familiar with Yame's train schedule. Running southeast, my train took 40 minutes to get to Hainuzuka, which is located in the small city called Chikugo. I had to be vigilant and attentive because every stop wasn't announced. Even the LED prompter on my train was written in Japanese characters. I didn't want to miss my train stop.

Station Stops

My train had a terminal stop at Omuta, departing the platform at 8:40 AM. From Hakata, it had stops at the following: Akeshita, Sasabaru, Minami-Fukuoka, Onojo, Futsukaichi, Haruda, Kiyama, Tosu, Kurume, Araki, and then Hainuzuka for my stop, arriving at 9:20 AM.

Hainuzuka Station had few commuters. The station was opened in 1891 and is now 127 years old. Knowing that impressed me. If you don't have a car with you, the Horkawa Bus Stop is just 50 meters from the station. The bus can take you all the way to Yame and Kurogi.

Upon reaching Fukushima, it was drizzling. I wasn't sure if cars were allowed to park by the road side. I stepped outside feeling the electricity of excitement run down my spine. Stood on the road where the Machiya house are. And sighed.

The restoration, unfortunately, didn't look impressive. This was how it may have looked back in the days, but there was nothing to crow about. The place looked rundown. Maybe I was in the wrong section of Fukushima? Most shops were closed, unless it is tradition to shut their doors and have tourists knock on them. I didn't think so.

"This is it?" I thought.

Photo of Fukushima District from a museum I visited.

Machiyas had fire-proof white clay walls. Miniatures of Fukushima.

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