One Hanoi Morning

Fast Facts: Hanoi

Official capital of the socialist republic of Vietnam (NOT Saigon aka Ho Chi Minh City)
Government: Socialist Republic (i.e. communist)Location: North VietnamPopulation: nearing 4 millionCurrency: Vietnamese dong ($1 = 17,500, a steep decline from the almost steady 16,000 rate)Mood: from cool to frenetic, a more relaxed city compared to the more popular and chaotic Saigon in the south (Hanoi is a 2-hour plane ride from Saigon. Mas malayo pa sa Manila-Davao.)



Mornings in Hanoi are mild and soothing. The weather has vastly improved compared to my March departure when I was frozen stiff at 6 degrees. Even London was never that cold, not in the way that it suddenly sprung on us from a high of 21 deg C to a low of 6 deg overnight – on a crazy March weather. The seasons of the world has gone awry and unpredictable. My first official day in Hanoi was laidback and comfortable.

A TEMPLE WITHOUT A NAME

After picking up my passport from Teyet, who was radiant and welcoming, I stepped out of Tung Trang. There is an unnamed temple just across Tung Trang; something that not a lot of tourists staying in this area take notice. Just across my hotel, this temple is nestled unassumingly beside a huge tree, its dry leaves dramatically blanketing the roof of the temple. In the past, I have been tempted several times to set foot inside, but civility stopped me. It felt like intruding to the privacy of the local folk. Pati ba naman itong obviously not a tourist haven, din na pinatawad? But I am curious. I shall regret it if, on my 3rd visit in Hanoi, I am still unable to visit this hidden temple.

“MY OWN GOD WILL BE THERE WHEREVER I PRAY.”

I gathered enough resolve and wandered inside. This is Vietnam unabridged and unedited! The rooms were smoky as incense was constantly being offered by the few local visitors who were there. There were several “altars” scattered inside the compound. Offerings consisted of fake money, lotus flowers and roses, some fruits, and pastries too. I nodded to the old man sitting inside. One hello and a smile. I asked if it was alright to take some photos and when he smiled and even muttered, “You welcoom”, I clicked away. I whispered a silent prayer before stepping out. My own God will be there wherever I pray. And I felt a sense of peace.

DONG DEPRECIATES

From there, I ventured the opposite direction leading to where the fruit vendors stand. Yup, they have atis (sugar apple -http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sugar_apple). I picked two ripe ones and paid 30,000 dong ($1.70). Just 3 months earlier since I left Vietnam, the dong has depreciated from the long-standing standard exchange rate of 16,000 dong to 17,500 dong to a dollar. I can spend even more with my US dollar. Mura na nga, mas madami pa ngayon ang mabibili ko sa aking pera. (My dollar has more purchasing power.) I decided to head to my favorite place in Hanoi, the enthralling Hoan Kiem Lake. I have mastered and relished the walk from my hotel to the lake which usually takes me 15-20 minutes. My atis (sugar apple) on hand, I traversed the main street of Hang Gai (I always forget the name of this street.)

I decided to pass by the Visitors Information Center to change some dollar to local money. Since I have several leftovers from my last visit, I just had $50 changed. Most of which won’t be spent here, but I’ll be able to use it in Saigon, my last leg. I want ready money when I get to Saigon. Surprisingly, a Gloria Jeans already occupied half of the Tourist Center. I found it an amusing thought how a socialist country has thoroughly embraced the ways of the capitalists. Talk about the need for re-education (a concept they seem to adhere whenever their minions stray away from their ideals). LOL. Their rate at this Tourist Center is a little high. Tourists needing legal tender are better off changing elsewhere. $1 = 16,250 dong. Elsewhere, it is $17,500. I am in a hurry so it almost didn’t matter. My mind was shooting ideas like lightining bolts. I have places to go!

VINA WHAT?

I crossed the street to get to Hoan Kiem Lake. My lake! Ahh! LOL. Sat at a bench facing the mist-shrouded lake. I started chipping off my atis and allowed time to drift by. This is my “smelling the flower” moment. In 30 minutes, breakfast was consumed. I planned on getting a proper meal after some window shopping. I hiked to the other side of the lake, crossed the street and got inside the mall. I never learned its name coz the marquee in front has a tongue twisting Vietnamese name. From the side of the building, it says “Vinaconnex” so it must be the name of the mall. “Vina” is a popular prefix for naming consumer products in Vietnam: Vinasun taxi (a safe and generally reliable taxi in Saigon and Hanoi), Vina phones, Vina dairy products. The mall (sans cinemaplex) has about 5 floors carrying a variety of products. It is similar to the former Manuela – Starmall! I couldn’t find a darn Northface bag, a product that my dear brother wanted me to purchase, since Northface is proudly a Vietnamese product. Not bad. I am sure I will find one in Saigon.

From Vinaconnex, I started my “go-where-my-feet-takes-me” mode. I walked and walked and walked. Until I found a little park with the bust of a Jose Marti Perez aka Anh Hung Dan Toc Cuba. I have no friggin’ idea who he is, but he must have done something spectacular to merit a little space in the bowels of Hanoi.

COMMUNISTS

Here’s what I learned so far! HE IS FAMOUS! Our dear friend Jose has bigger statues at the Central Park in New York and several more in Havana, Cuba. An airport is even named after him there. José Julián Martí Pérez (January 28, 1853–May 19,1895) was a leader of the Cuban independence movement from Spain and as well a renowned poet and writer. He is considered the national hero of Cuba and often referred to as the "Apostle of Cuban Independence". In many literary circles he is considered the Father of Modernismo. I realized the connection. Cuba and Vietnam are one of the few remaining communist nations in the world (along with Laos and China). Sabi nga ni Paris Hilton, “That’s hot!”

COULD BE VEGETARIAN

As expected, I seem to have lost myself walking sans direction until I noticed the familiar structure in front. Paris Hilton’s family-owned Hanoi Hilton and the beautiful Hanoi Opera! The last couple of times I was here, I came by taxi straight off from the lake. That’s when I realized I had been walking a considerable distance already. Yes! My feet were starting to complain, but hey, I’m the boss – not my feet. LOL. Just across the Hilton, I chose a well-placed Roma Café. I had “com than lonxao chua ngot” (ang baho pakinggan) otherwise known as “tender pork with sweet and sour sauce”. Despite its bland presentation, it was muy delicioso. Oh my gosh! There was a smattering of vegetables spread across the pork cutlets with rice – and a coke (45,000 dong - $2.50). Ewan ko ba, dito sa Hanoi, napapakain ako ng vegetables. They sure know what to do with their greens. If I lived in Vietnam, I’d be a willing and healthy vegetarian.

My waiter was a gracious one. He was almost always beside me during the whole meal. Though I appreciate the whole effort, it tends to be a tad embarrassing. You are suddenly aware of how huge you engulf your spoon-sized bite. LOL

GO SOUTH!

After my meal, I decided where to go. Enough of unplanned walks. I was tired. I spread my map over the cleared table. Snap. I have been in central Hanoi; western Hanoi through Thu Le Lake; North Hanoi though the dreamy Hotay (West Lake). East of the city is just the Red River which I’ve seen several times on my way to out of town jaunts. Yet I have never roamed the southern area. My finger was pointing to the body of water – May Mau Lake and its surrounding Thong Nhat Park! There is also a smaller annex of a lake called Thien Quang Lake! I have my next destination. Feeling smug, I finished my coke and just observed the spur of activity infront of the Hanoi Hilton.

Somehow, this city doesn’t seem to wallow in dire poverty. Facades, lobbies, entrances, exteriors. Feels like home.
Random Expenses:

· Hotel - $20 reduced to $10/room/day or 175,000 dong or PhP450
· Airport pick-up - $12 or 210,000 dong or PhP540
· Sugar apple/Atis (2 pieces) – $1.70 or 30,000 dong or PhP76.50
· Brunch (Tender Pork with Sweet and Sour Sauce and rice - $2.50 or 45,000 dong or PhP112.50
· Coke in can - $0.57 or 10,000 dong or PhP25.65
· Bottled water - $0.34 or 6,000 dong or PhP15.30
· Dollar changed to dong - $50 or 812,500 dong or PhP2,250


Hanoi Map. The enclosure represents the Old Quarters area where majority of backpackers and tourists congregate. Just south of the Old Quarters is the dreamy Hoan Kiem Lake - considered the heart of the city. Further south, is the May Mau Lake.

Temple without a name (above and below).



The Old Quarter's main street - Han Gai. Hoan Kiem Lake is a 15-minute walk from here.


Jose Mari Perez - Cuba's national hero.

A photo of Jose Mari Perez (left); Perez's statue at New York's Central Park (center); Perez's monument at La Quijote Park in Havana, Cuba. (right) - Kamukha ba sa ulo nya?

Entrance to the Hanoi Opera.




This is the Eye in the Sky!

Day 1 - Back in Hanoi

LEAVING MANILA

My least favorite part from a trip is the departure from Manila. I dread setting foot at the NAIA (Ninoy Aquino International Airport). Unlike most airports, there is something unsavory about the place. And I personally believe that the travel tax levied on local travelers is a bit stifling. Come on. This is still a third world country with the superficial façade of a cosmopolitan metropolis. Our buildings and our SUV’s can outshine the best cities of the world - but that’s where we are good at – facades, lobbies, entrances, exteriors! The local travelers try to make do with what they have, but a travel tax of almost $35 puts a dent on any travel budget. I wouldn’t rant if I know where all this money is going. Nowhere! Rather, to the politicians’ coffers! It doesn’t translate to anything substantial that filters back to the people. The internal revenue of this country heavily taxes anybody and anything and for whom? For the whim of these idiot greedy avaricious ravenous politicians. What other synonyms pa ba? LOL

COME ON – MUG ME, PUNK!

My check-in was unexpectedly painless, unlike last time where I had to stand for 2 ½ hours to an almost-non-moving queue. Leaving right on schedule for a change, I was a relaxed soul. I was busy discovering my new mp3 player which I bought especially for this trip knowing there will be hundreds and hundreds of kilometers of bus rides along the way.

As a principle, I refuse to bring with me anything expensive during long haul journeys. I did once and lost them when I got mugged in Parque del Retiro in Madrid. A video cam, an SLR camera, even my Bulova watch and a new pair of Doc Marten shoes straight from Camden Lock Market (London) ! There's more: passport with several European and Schengen visas, credit cards, etc. Good thing I left a bundle of Euros in my side pockets (I hated using a wallet then). Another good news then was the fact that I insisted on paying 3 days advance for my hostel (a bad habit gone good, if you really think about it). Well, to cut the long story short, I ended up staying in Madrid while re-processing of my passport and visas were on-going - for 3 long weeks.

These days, the only thing worth stealing from me would be my Canon camera (which cost me $800 – Manila price). My Rayban stays at home! I hardly use it anyway. I am not an eyeglass person. But I brought my Police with me, a knock-off - but who cares! My wrist watch? Cheap! I used to refuse carrying even an ipod as it distracts me from hearing my surroundings; from what the people are saying; to any sound or noise that will help me learn more about where I am. Well, this time, I bought a very cheap mp3 player – less than $20. They can mug me and take them all – and I wouldn’t cry over them (except for my Canon of course)!

TALK TO ME!

I slept during most of the flight! Three hours later, it would be my 3rd arrival in Hanoi – in less than 10 months! Having filled up my immigration card, I went straight to the nearest booth for the immigration formalities. I gave my passport and managed a curt, “Hi!” I think I managed a little smile too. Believe me, one hello and a smile will never hurt you anywhere - not even at 2AM! Didn’t take 1 minute, I swear! The young officer was swift and I was sent away just as fast. Sometimes I relish a little Q&A, just as a little welcoming tete-a-tete, but hey, I’m good with “no questions” too.

THE SCAM REVISITED

After picking up my 8 kg baggage, a little tension creeped in. Hanoi, for new arrivals, is known to harbor a hundred and one scams and their equivalent low-lifes and scums-of-the-earth, out to squeeze as much money from its new arrivals. Mas lalo na pag ganitong madaling araw ang dating ng eroplano. In essence, a lot of Pinoys fall prey to many of these scams. In fact, last February, I became part of the statistics. After agreeing on a fixed $15 fare to the city center (the Old Quarter), the driver and his white-uniformed sidekick suddenly detoured to a make-shift police booth. The sidekick asked for $35 for the policewoman. When asked what for, he wouldn't answer - feigning ignorance to what I was saying. He just kept asking for $35 worth in Vietnamese dong. What do I say or do? Am NOT gonna argue with a police officer and the 2 taxi guys. It was a big blow to my ego. Akala ko kasi, alam ko na. Haha! Ayun, na scam pa rin!

SITTING DUCKS

Pinoys arriving in the wee hours are sitting ducks from such scams. Somehow, Cebu Pacific has to address this matter, but with their very poor PR rep these days (rude customer service personnel all over the country from Manila to Cebu to Davao – I encountered 2 of them within a month - last May), I doubt if they would care!

Now back to my Hanoi arrival, by the time I stepped out of the baggage room, I heaved a sigh of relief. Someone was waving a board with my name on it! Sikat! Hehe. I made sure that somebody picks me up from my hotel, Tung Trang. I emailed them 3 weeks prior. (It was my 2nd email; they didn’t get the first one. They have a long list of email reservation backlog which I saw last February and, though theytry to reply, sa haba ng pila, they just randomly pick an email to reply to. Not every mail gets read.) My welcome party was a tall Vietnamese guy wearing white shirt. Uh oh. The same white shirt the February scammer wore. Ganito yata talaga ang palakad sa Hanoi when you get a taxi. You have a driver. You have a white-shirt guy whose purpose I am not aware of. Anyway, I keep telling myself that my huge Toyota Camry is property of my hotel. On the get-go, I am safe!

AVOIDING SCAMS IN HANOI

My only suggestion to avoid such unfortunate incident is, arrange for a pick-up from your hotel. Reserve for a room and have them pick you up. A taxi from Noi Bai Airport to the city center will always ask for $15, pretty much a fixed rate. My hotel pick-up was just $12. The decision to arrange for an airport pick-up is a no-brainer. I am not sure though if the popular Hanoi Backpackers Hostel offers such service. It just doesn’t seem “fun” to get scammed on your first day. You have to keep in mind that many of the scams that a tourist encounters during his Indochina travels are likely to originate from Vietnam. This is due to the fact that the concept of quality customer service, customer rights and protection are virtually non-existent in this Vietnam. There is no known grievance agency for consumer complaints. Nada!

A SLEEPY HANOI WELCOME

My ride to the Old Quarters was quiet. Neither of my driver nor his assistant was capable of conversational English, so that’s that! At about 2:30 AM (3:30 Manila time), I was dropped at the nearest street leading to Tung Trang. The corridors were dark, but I am already familiar of the 3 turns that lead to Tung Trang. I was grateful I didn’t have to shell out police payola this time so I tipped the assistant. The driver refused to accept his, which was weird. I have never encountered a Vietnamese who refuses a tip for services rendered.
Tung Trang was in deep slumber the minute I set foot infront of the hotel. The assistant – who walked with me to my hotel- knocked at the barricaded door. No one stirred inside. He got his mobile and started dialing. In 3 minutes, a new lady I haven’t seen before opened the door. I handed my passport (guesthouse formalities – I’ll just pick it up in the morning) and said, “Room 201?”!) I always stay in Room 203 at the opposite side of the building. Though there are windows, there’s hardly a view to enjoy. At $13, it would have been alright (aircon, cable TV, clean bathroom, 2 separate beds), but I wanted to try the rooms facing the small avenue in front. I wanted to try a room with a veranda – for a change. At $20, I was pleased. $20 is already an “expensive” undertaking as per “Backpacking 101” but I wanted something different this time. It was a nice huge room with a view. I began charging my phone, mp3 and camera, and left them as I head to the comfort of my $20 bed. I shall be a gracious tourist tomorrow. LOL. For now, I shall fulfill my nocturnal obligation to myself.
Girls at Hoan Kiem Lake - my favorite Hanoi jaunt.

The Huk Bridge, Hoan Kiem Lake

Door leading to my $20 veranda at Tung Trang Hotel.

The view directly from my room's veranda.

This is the Eye in the Sky!

Accommodations in Hanoi, Bangkok and Chiang Mai

When backpacking, finding the perfect accommodation to fit your budget, personal requirements or state of comfort is a tricky business. I am not a picky traveler but there are certain requirements I have to fulfill if I were to be happy with where I will be staying. They have to be affordable. Not necessarily cheap.

“Cheap” connotes grubby establishments that smell, paints chipping off the walls, bathrooms that grow an abundance of mildew, poor ventilation, mediocre security, dust mites from the pillows, musty smelling bed sheets, dark corridors and a generalized second-rate neighborhood. These are what I try to avoid. I need to be comfortable.

I need a place which can somehow help me with my travel arrangements, reserve me a taxi cab, offer suggestions to my itinerary. Little things that, in the whole scheme of things, may make my crossings faster and easier. I prefer air conditioned guesthouses, with good electrical sockets for my camera and cell phone to charge with. I put a premium on cleanliness and comfort. I have to feel safe. And I need a place I can comfortably lay my head down at night. I walk so much when I travel, so I really need to rest well at night so I can recharge well for another hectic day tomorrow. I need clean bathrooms; somewhere I can – hehe – read my Lonely Planet in for 30 minutes without feeling like I need to get out of the bathroom. If they seem like I require a 5-star hotel from my aforementioned manifesto, you’d be so wrong with such assumptions. During my last travel February and March 2008, I stayed in the following hotels, guesthouses and pension houses. The following places were "picked" differently. Some were from online or travel book recommendations which I was able to reserve early. Some were out of necessity. Some were from a previous travel. This entry is my tribute to these establishments which took care of me.

New World Lodge Hotel - 2 Samsen Rd Banglumphu Prana, Bangkok, Thailand - 10200. Located in the heart of backpacker's area, Banglamphu, New World is a few block's walk from the hustle and bustle of the traveling pack, quite hidden from the frenzy. It is located beside the river (though i did not see the riverside from the entrance or from my room). Newly renovated, this hotel is actually a far cry from the guesthouses that congest in the area. Its high-rise building, its elegant foyer, the homey restaurant (Sara) - all these separate this hotel from the rest of the accommodations. It IS a hotel! For a 2-bed airconditioned room with breakfast, the damage was B1,600. I was supposed to stay elsewhere but I could NOT get any rooms in one of the budget guesthouses at Soi Rambuttri. Not a single darn room! So I had to get this one, which is 2-3x more expensive than my original choices. But really now! B1,600 isn't bad! It also has an in-house taxi that you can hire for your airport transfer - for a charge of B300, which is way way cheaper than negotiating for one on your own.

The disadvantage of staying at the Khao San Road-Soi Rambuttri area is its distance from most of the shopping malls and tourist attractions. The advantage - feeling the vibe of a decadent, eclectic mix of tourists from all over the world. This area is a virtual sea of different nationalities.
Most taxi rides from the airport would cost you between B250 to B400, depending on traffic. Tips are optional. A 30-baht tip for the airport ride would suffice.

The receiving room - lounge area near the check-in counter.

Sumptuous breakfast buffet, rate-inclusive at the New World Lodge Hotel, Bangkok.

My 2-bed room at the 5th floor

Pattaya Centre Hotel. If you're planning for an overnighter in Sin City Pattaya, this is a good alternative. Located along a sidestreet in the city center, it's a stone's throw from the baywalk. Google for their rates.

Euro Luxury Pavillion Hotel - 122/23-26 Soi Somprasongruam, Rajrarop Road, Pratunam, Between Baiyoke 1 and Baiyoke 2, Bangkok, Thailand, Tel. no. (662)02-656-3013-14-15.

I found this little hotel out of necessity. I arrived in Bangkok without any reservations and decided to go straight to First House Hotel (which is popular with Pinoy tourists). Unfortunately, the hotel was fully booked... so, I had no place to go in the wee hours of the morning. I walked the dark alleys, and through the sinewy bowels of Pratunam. Near 7-11, I saw a little street that had signs of this hotel. I was my lucky discovery.

In the morning, I didn't realize that I was at a prime location - right in the heart of Pratunam. From the main road of Rajprarop, it is a few strides from Indra Regent Hotel and the Baiyoke Towers. This is shopping central.

Unfortunately for Euro Luxury Pavillion, their establishment isn't an easy find. Most other tourists would stay away from this area. It has a neighborhood of Africans, Arabs and Indians. But despite appearances, it is a very safe place. A tip in finding the place: Look for 7-11. Right across it, is a soi (a side street)! That's where you will find Euro Pavillion!

If you are not picky with your neighborhood, Euro Luxury is a great place. With just 800 baht, I'm surprised this place doesn't get fully booked most of the time I am there. My room had a huge bed. There is a disconcerting smell of incense that lingers. The windows are covered by a thick velvety cloth. The bathroom is spacious - probably a third the size of the room - and clean and dry with new fixtures! Its major advantage is its very central location in Pratunam. I doubt if I could find another respectable place as inexpensive as this one. There are a couple of internet cafes nearby. Narula, the hotel manager, was accommodating. I was just grateful to have found the place at 3 AM!

Tung Tram Hotel. A very popular family-run guesthouse in the heart of the Hoan Kiem Lake District (google it for address and contact numbers), this 16-room hotel is my home in Hanoi.

The people manning the place are always polite and helpful. The hotel is located at a quiet street. Just across the hotel is a temple. I always stay at room 201, 2nd floor - air conditioned, with clean bathroom, and 2 beds. The other empty bed is usually where my luggage sits. At $12-15 a night, staying at Tung Tram is a coup. Teyet, the girl at the counter (who's now married and has been replaced with an equally kind lady), will help with all your travel needs (plane, bus, train tickets, etc.) For my next trip this June, I emailed them early and got no answer. I knew why. I saw their email inbox when I was there. They had an unbelievable backlog of several months! They are unable to constantly check on their reservations that's why travelfish has been receiving complains.

I emailed them again, and finally got a reply confirming my reservations within 2 days! They do reply when they can but it seems impossible to reply to every mail that gets through. My first email reservation last year was through travelfish, and I didn't have any problem. Tung Trang also offers an airport pick-up service ($13) which I would highly recommend! It's safer than chancing on the several scams that permeate arrivals in Hanoi!

My 2-bed aircon room at the Tung Trang Hotel!

Lamphu House. An oasis in the heart of Banglamphu, Lamphu House is a well-placed garden guesthouse, quite hidden from the teeming crowd of Soi Rambuttri. A tip on finding it: the entrance is just beside 7-11 of Soi Rambuttri. My aircon room was 900 baht, with 2 huge beds and a veranda. This felt like a luxury room. A single bed fan room is just 350 baht. All guests would have to pay a refundable 100 baht (for the card key).

The disadvantage: one needs to reserved at least 2 months before your arrival in Bangkok. This guesthouse is almost always full! Upon my arrival in Bangkok (I first stayed at the Euro Luxury Villa hotel), I gave them a ring and I was asked to visit them and pay for my onward-travel reservations. (I had a Bangkok-Yangon-Chiangmai itinerary.) This practice was tedious and defeats the purpose of reservations if you have to go to them first just to pay in advance!

One more theing, they DO NOT accept credit cards! I love the laidback atmosphere of Lamphu, very relaxing! Google for their website.

The view from my veranda at the Lamphu House.

My other unoccupied bed in my room!

My bed - at the Lamphu House! I love the elegant interiors, the wooden floor, the veranda, and huge bathroom!

The restaurant at the Lamphu House!

CM Blue House, Chiang Mai, North Thailand. This guesthouse has nothing but good reviews. I chanced upon this guesthouse from my London-based Malaysian friend Irene. Run by 2 Americans, this amazing place is tranquil- your home away from home! The check-in counter is available (before 7PM) for your questions. They have complimentary maps upon check in. I got a fan room for 350 baht per day. You don't need an AC in cool Chiangmai.

Located in a quiet street from Moon Muang's backpacker area (the street beside the day market), the Blue House has a self-service restaurant, and will arrange for hilltribe treks. Google for their website.

CM Blue House - 30/1 Moonmuang Road. Soi 6. Chiangmai 50200Thailand Tel : 05-341-8511-2Int'L : 66-53-418511-2.

CM Blue House's 2nd floor veranda.

My 2-bed room at CM Blue house.

Umbrella-lantern adorning the ceiling, making the room too dimly-lit for a decent reading! I would sit at the bathroom reading my Lonely Planet.



This is the Eye in the Sky!

Hanoi, Chiang mai, a Golden Mount and Hurting Myself

Dreamy lake. One morning, I woke up to a fogbound Hanoi. I sat down a bench facing the tortoise castle by the lake and waited for the fog to clear, eating custard apple (atis) half the size of my head - fleshy and mouth-watering! A local passerby stopped and "begged" for the other atis sitting beside me. I refused and shook my head. I was hungry.



For those who actually read entries in this blog, I’ve been “trying” to update February and March (2008) entries with lots of (finally!) photos and text entries. Here are a few more photos.

A monk trying to catch their late-afternoon prayers. Moments after, I could hear the monks' chants booming all over the temple grounds - like some distant incongruous haunting spell. Chiangmai, North Thailand.

A monk helps out in installing a blue linoleum floor at the top deck of Wat Saket (The Golden Mount), one of my favorite spots in Bangkok. A good hike up the tower will rewarded you with the magnificent view of Bangkok.

Hurting myself. Upon arrival in Chiangmai, I tried to catch a bus (bus # 41) - instead of a taxi or a sangtheaw - infront of the Chiangmai International Airport. It had been 15 minutes already and it felt like I wasn't going anywhere. I stood with my pushcart, when suddenly, an idea came to me! I started asking at the passing bus where they were headed! Moon Muang (the main backpacker's area) maybe? The conductor nodded, and I jumped and jerked like a lunatic, as though a train was leaving me! Then I BUMPED my hand hard against the handle of the cart! OUCH! That really hurt. I tried not to wince, picked up my 15kg bag at lightning speed, then boarded onto the bus (no.11), standing proud like Captain America.

THAT was so excruciatingly painful! And I sported the ecchymosis for 5 days. I'd look at it on a daily basis, observing the subtle color changes until it gradually normalized. Spoils of war, rite of passage to Chiangmai!

This is the Eye in the Sky!

Hanoi - Not A Very Pleasant Return

Hoan Kiem Lake

The Air Asia flight from Bangkok to Hanoi took 2 hours. I was shaken from the sudden change of destination but I had to think and act fast. Otherwise, I’d lose my ticket’s worth, as Air Asia tickets are non-refundable. I just added B1,600, then I was off to Hanoi once again. After an agonizing queue at the check-in counter (row E), the immigration was even worse. This was due to the picture-taking process that goes on. I was 3 persons behind the line, and the clock was running 7:15AM already. The flight was supposed to leave 6:55. My nerves were all frayed from all the anticipation and anxiety. As I passed the counter, I made a mad dash to the pre-departure area, which was a helluvva run. They waited! And I can only be grateful! It wasn’t a great way to start the day. In a way, it was a foreboding of things to come.

WAYLAID

The plane landed 9:30AM to a fog-bound tarmac, with a visibility of just a few meters. I filled up my immigration card, subtly shivering from the unwelcoming cold. I wasn’t prepared to endure a wintery climate. In fact, all I had was barely appropriate. It was a sweat shirt that was hardly used in Bangkok. Immigration was a breeze, as usual. No questions. This weather must keep them lazy and basically careless. I texted my brother back in Manila to surf ASAP for the address of Tung Trang Hotel. Good thing that he was online. Although I'd find my way there, the route I know would require me to walk several blocks. This wasn’t feasible. I had a 15kg bag, and I was inappropriately bundled up.

HOODWINKED

I went to the Accommodations Counter which readily supplied me with a map and encircled the purported area. A “miron” (lurker) was nodding his head, saying “I know. I bring you!” I wasn’t thinking straight, and I really should have known better than biting the bait. Lurkers are NEVER good news. Most of the time, they have modus operandi that would squeeze moolah from your well guarded budget. The short of it, after an agreed $15 fare to Tung Trang, I found out that the lurker wasn’t the driver. I was led to a shabby car, bag at the trunk, then the lurker sat beside a driver. My spider-sense was buzzing overtime but it was too late. Half way to the city, just before a non-operational tollway, my ride pulled down a shoulder where a makeshift “police” stall stood. The lurker went down and talked to the uniformed lady “officer”. He came back asking for a “toll fee” of about $35 (500,000 dong). This was highway robbery. Airport taxis to the city center only costs $15 tops, and I am being asked for a "toll fee" of $35!

I knew there was nothing I could do! I was a blimp and a cunt and I deserved to be hoodwinked! I have been here before so I should have known better. After calming myself with an internal “It’s ok! It’s ok! You can earn that back easily!” – I somehow knew also that the worst is over. AND as a cautionary piece, one should NEVER ever mess with a police officer in a socialist republic like Vietnam, especially when you are easily outnumbered (3 of them, and your bag is in their trunk)!

TAKE IT OR LEAVE IT

By the time I reached the alleyway where I was supposed to get off, and walk from there to Tung Trang Hotel, I was adamant in giving him $15 for the taxi fare. Heto ang masaklap, the crocodile-faced hoodlum had the gal to ask for a tip of $20! Is he crazy??? I balked and refused! That’s about all the abuse I could take. I had my bag out, and I was already standing on a congested street. Either he takes my $15 or he leaves without it. Period!

After checking in at Tung Trang, where the former apprentice named Teyet (she's now calling the shots), I asked some minor information. A bus ride to Luang Prabang (Laos) is worth $18, and travels for 18 hours! I then walked along the main street. Decided to go to Hoan Kiem Lake, I took a taxi (flag down rate starts at 15,000 dong). I was famished, so I found a corner shop, walked upstairs, and ordered stir-fried chicken (55,000 dong).

DING DONG, YOU'RE WRONG!

Now it has to be emphasized here, and rather emphatically, just to be very sure and very exact. $1 is equivalent to roughly 16,000 dong. This is almost a fixed rate for the last 5 years or so. It is NOT 1,600 dong NOR 16 dong! I have travelled Vietnam EXTENSIVELY (and I do NOT mean just 3 or 4 or 5 days) 3 months ago so I am not making up a story when I say I know what I am talking about. Regardless of how smart other people would think they are, experience deserves a more believable reliability than any preconceived intelligence. Having said that, let’s move on.

After lunch, I decided to finally watch the world-renowned Than Long Water Puppet Show just a stone’s throw away from the main tourist office, across Hoan Kiem Lake. I bought a ticket (40,000 dong) for the 1 ½ hours show. The earlier 2 shows were sold out so I got the 6:30 PM show. (Show times: 2:45, 4:00, 5:15, 6:30, 8:00, 9:15) I had 3-4 hours to kill before this starts, so I decided to visit a park I have never been.

ONE-PILLAR WONDER

I decided to revisit their national hero’s (Ho Chi Minh) museum and mausoleum first. The sky was downcast so I just took a leisurely walk around the area, where I then saw the beautiful One-Pillar Pagoda! Oh! So this is where this pagoda was! The Pagoda stands on a single pillar, the surroundings adorned by pots of poinsettia in full bloom, appearing "very red" beside the greenish moat (a body of water). I’ve always wondered where this was located from my previous visit. After some snaps, I decided to head to this other lake. I looked at the map and saw a body of water west of the city center. This is the Thu Le Lake, with an adjoining park and a minor Voi Phuc Temple.

Thu Le Lake and Park was a pleasant area. (Before I forget, entrance here has an admission fee. I think it was 15,000 dong per person, probably coz it has animals on display. Is it worth it? Of course not! Haha. Hoan Kiem is free and it is a hundredfold prettier.) It sure looks a lot better than Baguio’s man-made lake though. There are recreational boats that can be rented to paddle over. The center of the lake has a romantically curved bridge. It’s surrounding land is spruced with animals in cages (including a baby elephant). Across the southern border of the lake, there is the Marko Market. At the western exit of the park, I took a taxi that would take me back to Than Long Water Puppet Theater near Hoan Kiem. (As for my thoughts on the Water Puppets Show, read the entry “Overrated Things about Vietnam”.)

After the show (it was a heady pleasure to just get out of that stuffy theatre), decided to take a rather pricey dinner once again at the touristy Hong Ngoc hotel Restaurant (180,000 dong). Though the pork steak was tasty (and the “small” rice turned out to be a bandehado – a big bowl), the pork was rubbery, it took all my strength to knife through it. That is one thing I have noticed about Vietnamese cuisine. They don’t quite know what to do with their pork dishes. That night, I realized I paid for a big airconditioned room even when I do not even need an electric fan. Oh well, you win some, you lose some.






One-Pillar Pagoda

Thu Le Lake and Park (at the west Hanoi area)

Me at Thu Le Park. Who cropped me???!!! ;->

This is a familiar sight this season. These bald shrubs with pink (sometimes yellow or orange flowers) bloom wildly all over the city. You would see them on top of hotel desks, houses, restaurants, or being transported on motor cycles, sold in the market, etc. They seem to be their own version of Christmas Trees.

Abloom!

One Rude Surprise - Myanmar A No Go, Hanoi Welcomes

I have been prepping myself up for Myanmar. I bought tickets for my Bangkok-Yangon flight as well as the Yangon-Bagan trip. I have booked a hotel as well as arranged a pick-up from a hotel.

Woke up at 4 am just to catch my Air Asia flight to Yangon which leaves at 7:05. New World Lodge Hotel's in-house taxi sped through Bangkok's impeccably maintained highways to Suvarnabhumi. On time and all prepped up, as I queued at the ticket counter. Then I was told that I needed a visa to get to Yangon. What?!

I have been reading so much discussion groups that I had the impression that like the ASEAN citizens, Filipinos enjoy a visa-free status! With a volatile political situation, Myanmar must have changed their policy towards ASEAN citizens. I am losing a lot of money and they have wasted my TIME. I checked the DFA website, and yes, Filipinos are given 21-day visa-free stays in Myanmar.

This was playing out like a nightmare. I had to think fast since Air Asia tickets are non-refundable, BUT I can change flights/destinations.

Hanoi was flashing on the flight board. I was there last November (and loved it), so why not Hanoi again? Better than staying in Bangkok. I paid an additional 1,500 baht for my Hanoi flight which departs at 6:55am. It was 6:10 and the queue to the immigration counter is a hundred kms long!!!! I was pins and needles. Oh gawd! I'm gonna miss this flight anyway! I was 3 persons behind at the counter and the agents were taking their time taking the passenger's photos. It was already 6:55!!! Once my photo was taken, I dashed off Gate G which was a considerable distance. I eventually got to my seat at 7:10 AM. They waited. Turns out there were half a dozen more who were running late.

Two hours later, my plane arrived in Hanoi. It was 7 deg C. I had a summer shirt on. I was shivering as I filled up my immigration card. 21 days once again. I changed my dollar to dong ($1=16,000 dong). A driver was hovering over me as I asked for directions to Tung Trang Hotel, where I stayed last time. I had my brother (back in Manila) text me the address. I made deals with a "taxi driver". HUGE MISTAKE! (Read more on "Hanoi: A Not So Pleasant Return".)


It was such a relief to finally find Tung Trang. Luongthom has apparently married a month ago and is now in Saigon. Her assistant, Teyet, now mans the counter. Got a room for $15 and paid $10 for my departure later in the week.

Situations like this happen, and it's best to just make the most out of a bad thing.

Update:

I've finally found my way to Myanmar last March-April 2008 - with my visa. Please check out my real-time blogs posted here during those travels.

This is the Eye in the Sky!

Burpppp...! - More Gastronomic Delights from Vietnam and Cambodia

These are just some gastronomic delights that I haven't posted yet!


Yangchau and Spring Roll - beside Ben Thanh Market, Saigon.

Their halo-halo at VnD 10,000 - mas masarap ang atin! (Ben Thanh Market)

A coke bottle for someone. (I have canned coke too but I can't seem to rotate it. :-< ) Hanoi

My ice cream cup at Tokimex - $1.25, Siem Reap, Cambodia

Fruits of the season include pomelo, atis, papaya, banana, longans, plums, macopa and dragon fruit. Ha Long Bay.

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