One Rude Surprise - Myanmar A No Go, Hanoi Welcomes

I have been prepping myself up for Myanmar. I bought tickets for my Bangkok-Yangon flight as well as the Yangon-Bagan trip. I have booked a hotel as well as arranged a pick-up from a hotel.

Woke up at 4 am just to catch my Air Asia flight to Yangon which leaves at 7:05. New World Lodge Hotel's in-house taxi sped through Bangkok's impeccably maintained highways to Suvarnabhumi. On time and all prepped up, as I queued at the ticket counter. Then I was told that I needed a visa to get to Yangon. What?!

I have been reading so much discussion groups that I had the impression that like the ASEAN citizens, Filipinos enjoy a visa-free status! With a volatile political situation, Myanmar must have changed their policy towards ASEAN citizens. I am losing a lot of money and they have wasted my TIME. I checked the DFA website, and yes, Filipinos are given 21-day visa-free stays in Myanmar.

This was playing out like a nightmare. I had to think fast since Air Asia tickets are non-refundable, BUT I can change flights/destinations.

Hanoi was flashing on the flight board. I was there last November (and loved it), so why not Hanoi again? Better than staying in Bangkok. I paid an additional 1,500 baht for my Hanoi flight which departs at 6:55am. It was 6:10 and the queue to the immigration counter is a hundred kms long!!!! I was pins and needles. Oh gawd! I'm gonna miss this flight anyway! I was 3 persons behind at the counter and the agents were taking their time taking the passenger's photos. It was already 6:55!!! Once my photo was taken, I dashed off Gate G which was a considerable distance. I eventually got to my seat at 7:10 AM. They waited. Turns out there were half a dozen more who were running late.

Two hours later, my plane arrived in Hanoi. It was 7 deg C. I had a summer shirt on. I was shivering as I filled up my immigration card. 21 days once again. I changed my dollar to dong ($1=16,000 dong). A driver was hovering over me as I asked for directions to Tung Trang Hotel, where I stayed last time. I had my brother (back in Manila) text me the address. I made deals with a "taxi driver". HUGE MISTAKE! (Read more on "Hanoi: A Not So Pleasant Return".)


It was such a relief to finally find Tung Trang. Luongthom has apparently married a month ago and is now in Saigon. Her assistant, Teyet, now mans the counter. Got a room for $15 and paid $10 for my departure later in the week.

Situations like this happen, and it's best to just make the most out of a bad thing.

Update:

I've finally found my way to Myanmar last March-April 2008 - with my visa. Please check out my real-time blogs posted here during those travels.

This is the Eye in the Sky!

Burpppp...! - More Gastronomic Delights from Vietnam and Cambodia

These are just some gastronomic delights that I haven't posted yet!


Yangchau and Spring Roll - beside Ben Thanh Market, Saigon.

Their halo-halo at VnD 10,000 - mas masarap ang atin! (Ben Thanh Market)

A coke bottle for someone. (I have canned coke too but I can't seem to rotate it. :-< ) Hanoi

My ice cream cup at Tokimex - $1.25, Siem Reap, Cambodia

Fruits of the season include pomelo, atis, papaya, banana, longans, plums, macopa and dragon fruit. Ha Long Bay.

.

Ha Long Bay & Thien Cung Cave

A serene sea greets hundreds of tourists in Ha Long Bay, which campaigned heavily (but failed to make the grade) for the New Seven Wonders of the World. If we have our own Hundred Islands in Pangasinan, Ha Long boasts of 3,000 of limestone islands with dramatic peaks. From the ocean, some of the shoreline reminded me of those magnificent Cliffs of Dover in England.

This is the Eye in the Sky!

These boats will take you around Halong Bay and through Cat Ba Island & Haiphong City.

The way to Thien Cung Cave and Pau Gu Grotto.

"Fighting Cock" - Ha Long Bay's esteemed symbol/mascot

.

Hanoi - Understated Sophistication at the Vietnamese Capital

Sometimes, no words are needed to enjoy the beauty of a place. This is Hanoi, Vietnam's sophisticated capital.

Vietnam's national hero's resting place, Ho Chi Minh's Mausoleum.

Hoan Kiem Lake

This is the Eye in the Sky!

Mesmerizing Hanoi

Hanoi is mesmerizing. It welcomed me with a certain degree of trepidation. I have always heard of Hanoi but I didn't have any idea what to expect from it. I didn't have pre-conceived ideas about this capital city. Hanoi enjoys 4 seasons, in comparison to HCMC's dry and wet seasons.


My Pacific airlines flight from HCMC was uneventful. My Phanlan guesthouse booked me a taxi to the airport. The domestic airport is smaller, darker, and the personnel hardly smart a welcoming smile. There were lots of scowling faces. My local fare included the departure tax so I didn't have to pay more. There was a small snack bar at the waiting area - just before the pre-departure area - and the waiting took "forever".

I was impatient, a little worn out from the constant move for the past 3 days or so. I also noticed more locals traveling. Boy! Jeans isn't "in". Ako lang ang naka maong! The trip took 2 hours to Noi Bai Airport which was smaller than Siem Reap's airport. I was (as usual) nervous, as I wasn't sure if my taxi booking (when I booked for my accommodation, they offered me a taxi pick up - and when I inquired at travelfish, there were complaints about the reliability of the taxi pick-up from this guesthouse) would show up.

To my relief, paglabas ko, my name was waved on a white board. Embarassing. What was more surprising was that it was a huge car - almost like a limo service. Comfy airconditioning. All these for US$12 - and no haggling! Tried to strike a conversation with my driver but it was obvious we were not communicating at all! Sayang lang that I didn't know about Pacific Air's free bus ride to the city center. Oh well! $12 lang naman. Better safe than sorry - especially that this was a long ride to the city center - and on to my guesthouse.


I liked Hanoi right away. The tree-lined roads are a lot wider than Saigon's congested streets. There are more cars than motorcycles than in Saigon which meant less noise.


My guesthouse (Tung Trang Hotel, 13 Tam Thuong St. Hoan Kiem District, Ha Noi) was located in a quiet neighborhood, after some blocks of small eskinitas of walking. It was also a few walks from a main city street that has rows of shops - and ultimately leads to Hoan Kiem Lake (which literally means "returned sword"). My guesthouse was run by a very friendly and accommodating family. The "concierge"was the owner's daughter, a charming Vietnamese lass named Luongthong. Spoke good english too. And always willing to help. I've had a few correspondence with her prior to this. (Had to make sure my reservation was good.) Directly facing Tung Trang was a Temple. Five strides from my entrance and I was with the gods. Nice.


My first object of the day, after checking in, was to look for a money changer. After checking out my room - and depositing my luggage, I asked where I could change my dollar to dong. She just pointed me to the main street. I left but not before she gave me a little calling card with sketched directions to the guesthouse.

This was going to be tricky and I was a little wary I might not find my way back. The streets were small, tortuous, labyrinthine, and the directions from the card were inaccurate (much like their maps- the steets were unnumbered, misnamed, etc.). I walked like 5 blocks until I found a Western Union shop that I wasn't sure would change my dollars. They did! Traced my way back and found an elegant little confectionaire that had sumptuous looking donuts ! Eeeek! Expensive, but it was alright. I was a millionaire after exchanging $70 - almost 1.5 million dong! Haha. It was a gift to myself for not getting lost so far! PhP 200 worth - 2 donuts and a coke in can.


Successfully found my way back to Tung Trang, and took a 2 hour rest, just reading Lonely Planet and my web infos. I decided to get a "tour package" (booked by my guesthouse) instead of traveling on my own to Halong Bay.


I realized that if I were to go at it on my own, the money saved is very minimal, something like $5 or even less. And all the hassle of finding your way to the train or bus, etc... wow, i would pay a LOT more to get to Halong than just a measly $20 - and this was inclusive of a van, some "new" acquaintances (my van seatmate was a 20 year old park ranger from Adelaide; my boat seatmate was an English guy who now works in Perth but moving soon to Hanoi and a Thai-looking Japanese scuba diver); Halong Bay cruise; lunch while on the boat... that is one cheap deal!

After my needed rest (I haven't slept much since my 11PM arrival from Cambodia last night - then my early morning flight to Hanoi), I wanted to see the famed Hoan Kiem Lake. I took my map with me and approached some motorcycle taxis. If they refused my 10,000 dong, it's a no-go! That was the asking price in HCMC. Whew. That took forever. They were asking for 15,000. Finally, on the 6th try, I said yes to 15,000 - only to find out that Hoan Kiem Lake is just straight ahead from where I was. Far but walkable! Like 10-15 blocks far!


I was amazed how adept Hanoians were riding at the back of the motorcycle. I'd see them reading a book, sitting upright without touching their driver, etc. I was embarassed to hold on to the shoulders of my driver but I didnt wanna die falling off a moving vehicle.

On my way to the lake, we encountered a vehicular accident between a car and a motorcycle - in the middle of a very busy intersection. And witnessed a very violent argument. Fists were flying off. The guy from the car threw the first punch, but when Mr. Motorcycle Man retaliated, car man realized he was outclassed. He took a very nasty 2-inch lacerated wound over his left eyebrow. Blood was profusely dripping down his cheeks! We were directly at the back of Mr. Motorcycle, so there was a cause for concern. My driver was cursing, probably saying "Get out of the way!" Traffic was on gridlock and we were in the middle of what may soon escalate into a full rumble! My heart was pounding! But mr. car man who threw the first punch started to calm down, probably coz he realized he wouldn't win in a fisticuff; and mr. motorcycle guy was already punching the other guy next to him for reasons I couldn't understand. Scary! What a warm welcome!

To cut a long story short, I got to Hoan Kiem Lake. It had a calming effect; very serene (despite the touts trying to sell maps and Lonely Planets). An american girl exasperatingly shouted, "I do not want any of your fucking books!" Can't say I'd blame her too.

The red bridge was a poetic sight to behold; and so was the little palace in the middle of the lake - where the legendary turtle is supposed to live. I walked around the lake, bought a cup of tea from an outdoor cafe, and noticed as the street lamps started to reflect their lights from the lake.

I was alone in a strange land, and I was at peace.

This is the Eye in the Sky!

How Much Things Cost in Saigon

A Random List

Postcard – at Bui Vien, VnD 2,500 (P7); they get pricier along Pham Ngu Lao and at the malls, and these are amazing postcards- the ones that cost PhP50 here in Manila

Postage- VnD 7,000 each (PhP20) to postcards within Asia, Australia, Belgium, China, and the US

Bottled water (Aquafina is a common brand) – VnD 4,000 (PhP11.50); VnD2,700 in regular stores (PhP7.50)

Coke in Can- VnD 6,000 (PhP17)

Dinner at Lotteria (their McDonalds/Jollibee)- VnD31,000 (PhP96) for Chicken Meal with
Lipton Tea

Haircut- VnD 15,000 (PhP42) at the regular barber shopTaxi from Tan Son Nhat to my hotel – VnD 96,000 (PhP 269)

Taxi ride from Tan Son Nhat to my guesthouse (2nd arrival)- VnD 74,000 (PhP207). Gave him VnD 100,000. Was just grateful for not haggling with him re: use of meter, etc. - and for a safe arrival.

Bus ride from Tan Son Nhat to Pham Ngulao/De Tham street (1st arrival) – VnD 3,000 (PhP 8.50)


Sharon fruit – VnD 25,000/kilo (5 pieces of crunchy heaven) (This is a personal favorite. Also known as Persimmon in London, I used to regularly buy loads of persimmon -along with cherries, apples and plums- along Kilburn in north London… it was staple for almost a year. -
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sharon_fruit ( I didn't know that its local variant is the mabolo.) In Manila, it costs PhP50 ($1) a piece.

An order of spring roll (a local favorite) – VnD35,000 (PhP 98)

An order of yangchau fried rice at a stall beside Ben Thanh – VnD35,000 (PhP 98)

Ca phe sua da (iced coffee with milk) in regular eateries – VnD 5,000 (PhP14) to 15,000 ( I paid 20K at Pho)

Pho (noodle soup) in regular eateries – VnD 11,000 – 25,000 (Was telling my part-vietnamese friend and she had to correct my pronunciation coz I kept saying foe...foe)

Pinoy LaTondena Rum gold, 750 ml – VnD 65,000 (PhP 182) - can you believe it? hehe

DSL line - $20 a month

Internet use for 1 hour – VnD 4,000 (PhP 11.50)

Khoai tay chin (potato chips) at the market – VnD 14,000 (PhP 39)

Ze om (motor taxis) – VnD 5,000-15,000

Omelette with coffee at a pricey restaurant in Pham Ngu Lao – VnD 40,000 ( PhP 121)

This is the Eye in the Sky.

Up next:

Border crossing and my heart-pounding, exhilirating, hilarious adventures in Kampuchea, err...Cambodia

Saigon 04

There is a park (photo below) along Pham Ngu Lao where, in the early morning, schools of dragonflies fly around (and there's no pond nearby). This is a cool place to relax and observe the locals go about their daily routine. People jog around; a good number of the seniors do their tai chis in the late afternoon. Young guys play our very own sipa takraw. This park stretches at a part of Pham Ngu Lao, Ben Thanh Market, and some upscale hotels like New World Hotel Saigon. Lovers cuddle on parked motorcycles.

Along Saigon River.

Tan Son Nhat International. Papuntang CR... hehe

On my last night in Saigon (my 3rd check in at Phan Lan), I got lucky to have the last remaining room- at the 8th floor!!! And there's no elevator here. After depositing your shoes at the foot of the stairs (they won't allow you to bring them upstairs), you walk up a cramped winding stair. This is the view (photo above). Room rate - $12, with breakfast! Of course, there are cheaper rooms with no airconditioning and probably a shared bathroom, but this place is very safe, very clean, and very comfortable. Moreover, the owner took care of every travel transfers I wanted, including my bus ride to Cambodia, my taxi ride to Tan Son Nhat, and an assured reservation upon my every return. She was very hospitable to me, probably coz I am Asian. She would share her thoughts: "Hanoians don't like to smile the way Saigon locals do." - or "The road to Phnom Penh is good, although I hate getting a visa just to cross a nearby border." These were insights that I appreciated. There are only 4 countries which are visa-free in Vietnam - Singapore, Malaysia, Laos and good ole Philippines. Not even for their neighbor Cambodia!

So, Pinoys should take advantage of such privilege.



Addendum:

I've visited Saigon and Hanoi several times already since my "first visit" so you can check them out.

Saigon 03 - Money Matters

MONEY MATTERS

I strongly suggest stocking up on small dollar bills. Lots of them. I was lucky to have found someone who just got back from Vietnam and had spare dong, which I used for my 3000 dong bus ride. There are ATMS everywhere. Even my small guesthouse (which is an 8-storey, 13-room establishment) had an ATM at the foyer. (Just 2 doors away is Madam Cuk's Guesthouse, which is highly recommended by Lonely Planet.) You can withdraw US$ from your credit card (which I do not recommend because of its steep surcharge per withdrawal). If your ATM bank card has Cirrus, Maestro or PLUS, then you can withdraw cash from your ATM savings at a much lower service charge ($2).



a familiar sight in Vietnam

A row of cafes at a mall in an upscale area, a few walks from the historic Rex Hotel.

Flags are everywhere in Vietnam, even in unnamed streets.

An ambulant vendor.

One of the myriad of art shops in HCMC. Be sure to buy an art work. They're inexpensive.

.

This is the Eye in the Sky!

Saigon 02 - Of Touts, Rigged Meters and Lethal Road Crossings

EXPLORING HCMC

Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC) is Vietnam’s Manila. This is where rural folks seek greener pastures. Saigon, as most locals still call it, is a tourist haven, a backpacker’s playground. In fact, tourism is their main industry. Motorcycle taxis called “xe om” are everywhere, waiting for customers. I prefer to walk, exploring areas wherever my feet would lead me… Ben Thanh Market is within walking distance, so is Saigon Square.

I've never tried riding a motorbike before, thus riding at the back of one is a heady rush, and one that I suggest any tourist should try. It costs about 15,000 dong ($0.80/PhP 37) within the tourist belt, although you have to remind your driver to drive “slow”. He will always ask for VnD20,000 but just look elsewhere if he won't haggle. There are plenty of them in every corner who would be glad to take your 15,000 dong.


Airconditioned taxis are also an affordable option. Flag down starts with 6,000 dong, which is very cheap. If you’re not into motorcycles, by all means, hail a cab! Tell them, “Meter!” and make sure that they agree first! Getting a cab from Tan Son Nhat to the city center shouldn’t go above $6 (which is so far the cheapest within Asia, I believe). My hotel arranged for my taxi ride to the airport, which was a measly VnD 96,000 ($5/Php 237). Green bus 512 is NOT always available. During my 2nd and 3rd arrival at the Tan Son Nhat, it took me an hour to wait and realize that Bus 512 wasn't coming, so I took the taxi. I think 512 stops operating from 5PM onwards, so I guess I was just first-time lucky to have found them upon my first arrival. Cyclos are another option when you’re not in a rush, but considering the constant swerving of motorcycles that spring out from all directions, I wouldn’t recommend it. If accidents happen, the passenger gets hit first!





A view from Leloi Street

Friendly girls in their ao dais

ANNOYANCES

An Austrian national had this to say: “I certainly wasn’t prepared for the tumultuous assault on the senses that it turned out to be.”

On my first day, after checking in at my guesthouse, I decided to take a leisurely walk from Bui Vien to Pham Ngu Lao. And my gosh! I have never been met by so many touts offering their xe om – and I do NOT look Caucasian at all!!! I had earlier decided to be nice, but realized that it takes all of your resolve to do this when you are persistently dogged around by someone you politely said NO to. One guy offered his motor, and though I kept walking and smiled with a NO, he walked with me for 4 whole blocks! He seemed desperate but much as I sympathize with him, I hardly seem myself as the answer to their financial woes, and it was starting to get annoying. So I decided to get inside a restaurant called PHO – and, in the process, discovered one of the most heavenly Vietnamese meals I’ve had in my entire life. I ordered a pho ga at VnD 31K (PhP87) – which is pricey, in Saigon standards. I also tried their Ca phe sua da – a very strong and very sweet iced coffee - at 20,000 dong (PhP57), two items on my gastronomic checklist.

A map at the beautiful post office, where you can also place international/local calls

How to spot a rigged meter? Well, the good ones are placed above the dashboard, easily visible from your seat at the back. These are also sealed by a transparent plastic cover. If these meters are placed way down below, and don’t have a case, chances are, they are rigged.

Main Post Office

Touts are a dime a dozen in Vietnam. In fact, in Hanoi, while I was walking around the Hoan Kiem Lake, Ms. America suddenly shouted (top of her lungs) with enough conviction to stop their Iraqi occupation - “I DO NOT NEED OR WANT ANYTHING FROM YOU, THANK YOU!” to a guy who was selling postcards and maps! People stared at her with disapproved glances for breaking her cool in public! It is just not worth losing your temper in public.

Another source of stress in HCMC is the traffic, where crossing the street is a death-defying endeavor. I am NOT exaggerating. But after a while though, I think I learned the art of street crossing. You see, if HCMC has a population of 10 million, half of them owns one (or even two) motorcycle.

The motorcycle is the vietnamese’s version of a Pinoy’s cellphone. It is their prized possession, as i was told that it takes them a quarter of their lifetime to pay for one. (This is an insight from a Perth gentleman who has made Saigon his temporary home for the last 2 years.) At night, when the guesthouse is in deep slumber, you will find your hotel foyer subbing as a garage for these motorcycles.

LETHAL CROSSING

I realized that, on crossing the street, the technique is to cross with confidence and an assured, constant pace. Do not make sudden stops! Do not hesitate in the middle of a walk… and you will find the motorbikes flowing around you. And, yes, don't forget to pray for your dear life! Hehe

This is the Eye in the Sky!

Saigon 101

GOOD MORNING, SAIGON!

I get restless the night before every travel, which is not a good thing. On my 4th backpacking trip this year and nothing’s changed so far. No matter how hard I try, I just toss and turn and wind up with barely an hour of sleep. It’s the adrenaline pumping overtime. But the rush really starts the moment my feet touches the tarmac. To say the least, I hate the immigration formalities. Though I have never had any problems before, there have been horror stories, and I always come ready not to be flustered. As expected, the proceedings were uneventful. Not even a single question, and darn, I was ready to shove my return ticket to the immigration officer. (That’s the most common that they ask anywhere, I guess.) Haha!

Tan Son Nhat International Airport is a medium sized airport, and most arrivals, I was told, are bussed to the main terminal, except for some flag carrier (Vietnam Airlines) arrivals. I came prepared and didn’t have to change my dollar to the irrepresibly named Vietnamese Dong (PhP 1= VnD 356 or $1 = VnD 16,000). It's supposed to be Nu Dong, I was told. Unlike the Indonesian Rupiah, the dong is exchanged at that stable rate. (Indonesian exchange is exasperatingly AND notoriously subjective. If there’s a slightly imagined fold at the tip of your dollar, then your rate is decidedly marked down, no matter how new and crisp your full dollar bill is.)


Communist countries like China and Cuba do not sell their currencies abroad – I guess this is ideologically based. Vietnam, being a socialist republic is the same, so, unless it is black market, you cannot find dong in legitimate establishments (banks, etc.). It’s a good thing that I stocked on small dollar bills (which isn’t easy – took me a month to get enough small bills) as the dollar is widely accepted. Problem is, if you purchase with a US$100, THEN be prepared to receive a box-load of dongs for your change. I was a millionaire when I changed my $70!!! (VnD 1.25M)

Reunification Hall

I arrived before noon so I had enough time to “experiment”. Skipped the mad rush of taxi touts outside and looked for the green bus no. 512 outside. To my pleasant surprise, there were 2 empty 512’s waiting outside. I stepped in, asked the lady assistant “how much” and she enunciated rather emphatically, “Three fou-zund dong!” Of course, I wasn’t too sure where that would take me, although my readings assured this would take me to the backpacker’s area in Pham Ngu Lao St. Though I had 3 hotel names in mind, but with no hotel reservations, I decided to wing it. I had daylight and I had time to choose – IF I do find the street! The ride was long, a good hour, as traffic was moderately heavy. There is an ocean of motorcycles like you’ve never experienced in Manila: noisy and chaotic.

I read the street signs until I saw Pham Ngu Lao. I didn’t know where – or how to go about alighting from the bus. I signaled to the assistant, and she just nodded, BUT the bus went on for a good 20 minutes. It turned along De Tham Street and made a stop, so, with my 12 kg bag ( I know, I know – am supposed to travel light!) and took a walk to the street parallel to Pham Ngu Lao- Bui Vien Street! It has been my experience that backpacker areas are ironically pricier - like KL’ Bukit Bintang. I meandered along Bui Vien, trying to look like I wasn’t lost until I found a place I sensed was alright. Phan Lan Guesthouse 70, which would then become my refuge for the next 2 weeks of constant transfer. My room was way up 6th floor, newly renovated, with a fresh coat of paint – split-type aircon, ref, cable TV, newly tiled and spanking clean bathroom. I had a window too though the view wasn’t spectacular. Tall but thin buildings jut out for a cityscape. This is typically Vietnamese, I noticed much later. From afar, they looked like pencil towers.

Notre Dame Cathedral

Saigon River

Delicious rice cakes by the roadside near Ben Thanh. (I tried the brown stuff -right side- at 5,000 dong, PhP 7 - sweet & tasty.)

Notre Dame again