ANCIENT SIAM - Around Thailand in a Day Part 3 of 3

Thailand folklore remains to be one of the richest source of the most colorful characters and legendary romances. I am particularly enthralled by the story behind the Garden of Pha Daeng in Nang Ai. Secret trysts, beautiful maidens, Naga princes and mysterious squirrels... oh gosh! Please read the story capsule below. This garden is on display in Ancient Siam in Samut Prakan. Though this statue is particularly easy to miss (it is situated at a lake as your tram gets near the south exit of the main park), you should stop and take a close look as a giant snake-like multiple-headed creature called a Naga chases over horse-bound lovers - and be aware of the story behind these star-crossed lovers!

In this 3rd and final part on Ancient Siam, aka Muang Boran - we also feature some sights from everyday-Samut Prakan. This is the Eye in the Sky.

Thai Junk refers to a ship rustically built of wood with a combination of traditional details and modern technology. It doesn't refer to a "garbage"! So when you hear, "We're going to the Ayodhaya Junk" - you're actually going to a SHIP, not a garbage dump!

Phra Chedi Si Song Rak in Loei - Phra That Si Song Rak was built in 1560 A.D. as a symbol of friendship between Somdet Phra Maha Chakkaphat of Ayutthaya and Phrachao Chaiya Chetthathirat of Lan Xan, the two kings. It was at this spot that the two kings vowed not to invade each other's territory. Instead they decided to unify their armies so that they could fight as one against the invading army from Burma. This unique temple symbolizes friendship and unity. Moreover, visitors visiting the temple should be careful not to wear red or offer red flowers, as red symbolizes violence and blood.

Garden of the Gods - half-man, half-snake proudly stands by the lake.

Garden of Pha Daeng in Nang Ai - Behind this eye-catching series of statues is a suspenseful tale that has become a personal favorite. The story centers on the romance of a lovely maiden and a ruler.

Nang Ai, the most beautiful girl in Khomkham City, had secret trysts with Pha Daeng, the ruler of Phaphong. Her celebrated beauty was unparalleled. This news eventually reached the son of the Naga king. The Naga prince, transformed himself into a very handsome gentleman and tried to seduce her, but he did not succeed in winning her heart. Finally, he then disguised himself as a white squirrel with intent of kidnapping her from Pha Daeng. When Pha Daeng and Nang Ai saw the squirrel, they ordered a hunter to trap it. The prince, in the guise of the squirrel, wa killed by the hunter. And the meat of the animal was fed to the towns folk.

Strangely, the squirrel's meat kept growing even though much of it had already been sliced off and distributed to feed the people in the city and neighboring towns. Suddenly, a huge rainstorm struck the town. The loving couple became suspicious. Pha Daeng scooped Nang Ai on his horse and they made a dash away from the city, but in vain. Nang Ai fell off the horse and slid into the river. The waters mysteriously overflowed, spilling into the city, flooding every nook and cranny. The spirit of the dead squirrel morphed into the king of Naga, taking Nang Ai into his underwater kingdom. It was said that those who had not eaten the meat were saved from the tragic event. Muang Boran constructed a group of statues based on the legend of Pha Daeng and Nang Ai. See first photo above for the folkloric escape of the ill-fated lovers from the Naga King.

Even an ordinary rice field has its place in Ancient Siam, like this Udon Thani greens.

The Temple of Prasat Phra Wihan in Si Sa Ket sits on top of a hill. I was too tired to finish off my visit with a climb up on a hill so I regretfully missed it!

The Garden of phra Aphaimani in Rayong

The Bell Tower

Chedi of Cham Thewi in Lamphun

The Garden of Sacred Stupa

Garden of Phra Aphaimani in Rayong

A footbridge to get to the highway - Sukhumvit Road. People actually fish from this "canal".

Fishing off this canal - a creek that runs the length of Sukhumvit Road.

Very clean roads - Kilometer 33 Sukhumvit Road in Samut Prakan. This photo was taken from the overpass.

My bus ride back to Bangkok. An hour's travel... and the soothing blow of cool air.

For the complete narrative detail on my visit to the Ancient City, please visit the two previous posts.

This is the Eye in the Sky!

More photos: Ancient City Part 1 of 3 - http://eye-in-the-blue-sky.blogspot.com/2009/08/ancient-siam-around-thailand-in-day.html

More photos: Ancient City Part 2 of 3 - http://eye-in-the-blue-sky.blogspot.com/2009/08/ancient-siam-around-thailand-in-day_11.html

For an introduction: Getting to Samut Prakan or step by step instructions on how to get lost (wink!wink!) - http://eye-in-the-blue-sky.blogspot.com/2009/08/long-road-to-samut-prakan-introduction.html

ANCIENT SIAM – Around Thailand in a Day Part 2 of 3

A visit to Muang Boran aka Ancient Siam was an immensely satisfying experience. Not only was there so much to see, each site was a near-perfect replica of the original . I had a field day taking photos, but as I was checking out the list of 116 sites listed on the site map back at my hotel, I realized that I missed a LOT! This gives me a reason to revisit Ancient Siam in the future - and I can't wait!

In this post - the 2nd piece of a 3-parter, I was heading "north of Thailand" before turning east and round back. I'd hop off the tram, roam a temple or site, get awed by each diligent reconstruction, then catch my breath and wait for the next tram ride to come along. The sun was scorching and I've downed several bottles of water - yet perspiration dripped like a leaky faucet from the tendrils of my hair. I'd reach for my nape, dap my hair with my handkerchief - and I would marvel at how drops of sweat tricikle down in succession. Tumatagaktak. Muang Boran would be a perfect place for biking in the months of December to February, I thought, but before then, such solar rays would be nothing less than health hazard (although nothing beats the raging sun of parched Bagan during the summer). Having mentioned that, it was such a delight seeing replicas of the temples and halls from Sukhothai which I visited last year!

I wanted to explore the cluster of this miniature village where the Floating Market was. The blue footbridge beckoned like a magical transporter to authentic Thai life. A few boats half-filled with vegetable produce slid past us. Riverside food stalls lined by pots and kettles could be seen waiting for the occasional starved tourists. I was more semi-dehydrated than hungry, but I couldn't resist their version of the halo halo (crushed colored ice with mixed fruits and condiments). I soaked on the atmosphere by the the lakeside - dwarfed wooden tables facing the waters. I sat hunched down and cross-legged, with my back against the post. It was surreal watching the play of activities surrounding me - they all seemed real; not the reconstruction that this place actually is. For a more thorough narrative on my visit here, please visit the previous blog post.

This is the Eye in the Sky.

Wooden avenues surrounding the Floating Market area or the Damnoen Saduak. The Damnoen Saduak Floating Market is located at Damnoen Saduak District, Ratchaburi Province, about 105 kms from Bangkok. According to history around 1866 King Rama IV ordered that a 32 kms long canal be dug at Damnoen Saduak. This canal would connect the Mae Klong River with the Tacheen River. The excellent quality soil beside the canal is very fertile and suitable for growing many kinds of fruits and vegetables. The area is famous for Malacca grape, Chinese grapefruit, mangoes, bananas, and coconut.

Idyllic houses on stilts...

Souvenir items at the Old Town Market area

Nam Keng Sae or Thai Halo Halo - Just looking at it proved to be irresistible, so... yum!

Nam Keng Sae or Thai Halo Halo at 15 baht ($0.45)

Sukhothai wihan - the wihan is constructed based on the wihan of Phra Buddha Chinarat of Wat Phra Si Ratana Maha That in Phitsanulok Province.

Grand Hall of Wat Maha That in Sukhothai's Old City

Grand Hall of Wat Maha That in Sukhothai

Size of the Buddha of Wat Maha That. Is it really scaled down? It's almost a third smaller. I visited the original Wat in North Thailand last year, and this replica is pretty impressive.

Main chedi of Wat Maha That in Sukhothai. Wat Maha That is the biggest temple among the 26 found in the Sukhothai Historical Park. The Kingdom used to dominate over the area in North Thailand between the 13th and 14th century. There are 193 ruins in 70 square kilometers of land. It is a World Heritage site.

A lotus bed blooms in front of the main chedi of Wat Maha That, Sukhothai

Main chedi of Wat Maha That, Sukhothai - the view from outside

Sand castles near the Chedi Cham Thewi

The Royal Water Course Procession - aka Krabuan Phayuhayattra Chonlamak) is a ceremony of both religious and royal significance which has been taking place for nearly 700 years. It takes place rarely, typically coinciding with only the most significant cultural and religious events. During the reign of Thailand's present King Bhumibol Adulyadej spanning over 60 years, the Procession has only occurred 16 times.

The Royal Barge Procession, in the present, consists of 52 barges (51 historical Barges, and the Royal Barge the Narai Song Suban King Rama IX, built in 1994 and the only Barge built during King Bhumibol's reign) and is manned by 2,082 oarsmen. The Procession proceeds down the Chao Phraya River, from the Wasukri Royal Landing Place in Khet Dusit, Bangkok, passes the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, the The Grand Palace, Wat Po, and finally arrives at Wat Arun (Temple of the Dawn).

Pavillion of the Enlightened - This is associated with Mahayana Buddhism and the story of 500 enlightened monks of different background, code of conduct and merits, coming together to reach Nirvana. Mahayana Buddhism is one of the 2 major branches of this religion (the other one being Theravada) that originated from India.

Pavillion of the Enlightened

Multiples of chinese-looking buddhas sit around the halls of the Pavillion of the Enlightened. There should be 500 buddhas at the original site. That would be an amazing place to see.

Pavillion of the Rainbow Bridge - Connected to this is the Rainbow Bridge, but since I was already so tired to get off the tram, I just took photos from a moving tram and the bridge was partially hidden behind trunks of trees. The pavillion is located in Lopburi.

Next post - Part 3 and Last Part of Ancient Siam (Muang Boran): http://eye-in-the-blue-sky.blogspot.com/2009/08/ancient-siam-around-in-thailand-part-3.html

Previous Post - 1st part of Ancient Siam in http://eye-in-the-blue-sky.blogspot.com/2009/08/ancient-siam-around-thailand-in-day.html

Getting to Samut Prakan - A Little Adventure in http://eye-in-the-blue-sky.blogspot.com/2009/08/long-road-to-samut-prakan-introduction.html