Stalking the Monks in Champasak Town - A Morning Stroll

Sunrise over the Mekong in Champasak Town.

Dawn in Champasak Town. I was hopeful to discover a wee bit more of this once royal land, now bathed with similitude of languor. Sunrises are such gifts to live out another day; to make it better than the last. But this was actually two hours before my intended departure. I had booked for a “mini-bus” that would pick me up and get me to the jetty in Ban Nakasang where I was to take a catamaran to the big island of Don Khong in the riverine archipelago of Siphandon (4000 Islands)!

But what can a solitary soul do at the peep of sunrise, when most people have yet to open their eyes? The orange hue of the heavens was telling as it lends its colors in the serenity of the Mekong, calmly raging in its journey southwards. I took a tentative step to the main road and noticed the stark emptiness of the street, clayish red, partially sandy and pebbly and uneven. I walked south and noticed other guest houses I didn’t notice yesterday – Sou Chitra Hotel, Khampouy Guesthouse. Inthira Hotel somehow lost its sophisticate veneer in sunlight in the absence of dreamy candle lights, wine bottles, and laidout utensils over beautifully carved tables. What I had for company were a pack of dogs who were disinterested in my presence. I saw a child playing with his pebbles and was reminded that there is simple joy to be had in the company of toy stones.

Deserted main road in Wat Thong.








A child and his toys, i.e. pebbles and stones.


Wat Amath


Wat Amath is located at the village next to the central Ban Wat Thong.


I sat here last night listening to chanting monks.

Further afield, I entered the grounds of Wat Amath. I was here last night; sitting on these stairs, listening to the hypnotic chant of the monks. The door had been shut, but it won’t be long before the monks start their morning alms ritual.

True enough, I noticed four young novices queuing behind an elderly monk wearing a faded saffron robe. And thus began my morning habit of stalking the monks. I was the unofficial 6^th monk sans robe, sans haircut. If there was infraction in following them around, I silently apologized, but I couldn’t help pursuing them. I needed to observe the ritual that they follow here in Champasak which is a bit dissimilar from the one followed up north, or even in Thailand.

Villagers would scamper around preparing food and gifts by the roadside, kneeling down, anticipating the passing of these monks. Such were merit-making acts, an enrichment of the soul, so to speak. The alms-giver would kneel down and as the monks walk towards them, they fill their bowl with “gifts” – food mostly, that gets shared at the temple - then the monks queue, but not directly in front of the villagers, and start praying or chanting before moving along to the next. I do wonder why they cannot stand in front of the “givers”, most of whom were women. Maybe it’s because they are not allowed direct interaction with women who render them “unpure”. Of course, this is mere conjecture.

There’s a degree of chagrin in their routine, and I soldier on, tailing them like a paparazzi, though I tried hard not to be too conspicuous. After a few more collection, they moved further away and I eventually stopped following them. This practice would be repeated during my travels across South Laos, I might as well compile them into a book called “Stalking the Monks”.

The monks queue ahead after getting the "alms" and start praying or chanting for the villagers.

Wat Thong is the town’s most important temple. Also called Wat Nyutthitham, this temple is the repository of some royalty’s ashes. I saw a glimpse of one of its temples last night, but such visit provided an unflattering impression. After all, I was meant to see its main temple and ordination hall in broad daylight, instead of lurking in darkness. I wasn’t disappointed this time. With glistening floor and a sprawling hallway, the main temple looked royal, aptly illuminated in bright sunlight. This visit somehow is the rightful denouement to my adventures in Champasak Town.

CRACKLING GROUND

At the back of the temple, I noticed a lake, stagnant and placidly reflecting the sky above, like a glistening mirror. Wooden boats were marooned nearby. As I gently roamed, I noticed the cracking sound where my feet took me and to my surprise, I was stepping on hundreds and hundreds of snail shells. In fact, the whole ground was covered with them. How could I not notice? What were they doing here? The thought of slime disconcerted me, but these were seemingly empty shells. I didn't dare peek inside.

I briskly walked back to Saythong Restaurant and feasted on a 15,000 kip omelette over rice. What was feckless darkness from last night was now basking in glorious sunrise. The river winks with serene charm. In half an hour, my mini-bus arrives to take me further south into this land of chill!

This is the Eye in the Sky!

Wat Thong aka Wat Nyuthitham


Main Temple of Wat Thong











A gigantic pig roaming around Wat Thong grounds.





Lake at the back of Wat Thong


Snail shells cover the grounds





Black cat


The Mekong from my restaurant seat


Omelette over rice at 15,000 kip ($1.90)


Sunshiny Saythong Restaurant where I would be its first customer of the day (above and below).


Beauty abound in this sleepy Mekong town.

Embracing the Night in Champasak

I've been forewarned. It would be a challenge to amuse oneself in Champasak when darkness falls across these ancient lands. But since my arrival, I've done nothing but check out nearby temples. I haven't really seen Ban Wat Thong, Champasak's main village.

I have freshened up and taken my time to just watch the Mekong flow by while shades of blues gradually darken to night. I wanted to walk around and profusely thanked my host (the amorous owner of Champasak Guest House) who was surprised when I refused his offer of a bicycle. "But it's free," he insisted. Otherwise, bikes are rented to a measly 20,000 kip a day ($2.50). I preferred walking. I didn't want the hassle of leaving my bike while I am gallivanting.

I wanted to check out Wat Thong which is home to the remains of 3 royalties, but I also realize that it was late. I passed by Lao Development Bank where money could be changed as well as empty-looking guesthouses. The highway in front of Wat Thong was being paved so mounts of pebbles parade. I was able to sneak inside a temple, making my way from the backdoor. I was trespassing, but there's something vaguely exciting about the deed. Aside from a Golden Buddha, the small temple was sparse and dusty, garbage scattered on the floor. The main prayer hall beside this building was shut so I'd probably get to see it in the morning.

Back at the village's main road, I passed by Inthira Hotel and Restaurant, which has wifi. But aside from looking classy and expensive, there was no one there but a French couple starting their dinner. It was 6 PM. Lonely Planet mentioned the town's lone internet cafe, but I didn't see it, or was just not interested to go online.

HYPNOTIC

At an even darker part of the dark, I saw an interesting temple - Wat Amath! I went closer and saw the door wide open. Inside were novice monks and one elderly monk. They were chanting repeatedly - and the sound swayed inside my head like fragrant coffee, like a delectable dish. I was transfixed and sat by the stairs for 20 minutes just listening to the hypnotic cadence of their chant. It would be one of my favorite moments in this trip.









Dusk in Wat Thong














Buddha inside one of Wat Thong's temple


Inthira Hotel and Restaurant, one of Champasak's spiffy hotels (above and below).



I decided to have my dinner at a different restaurant. It didn't even matter if a restaurant has a riverside view or not because there's none to be had. Mekong was bathed in darkness. Inthira Hotel and Restaurant looked expensive so I skipped that. I saw Saythong Restaurant and found a table by the river. I was there for the gentlest breeze.

SWEDISH DELIGHT

Four tables across mine was the septuagenarian Swedish guy I was able to have a conversation earlier in the day. Though he was friendly (He even thanked me: "Thanks for talking to me," he said - which should underline the gravity of solitariness to be had in this seeming ghost town.) I didn't feel like continuing a conversation with him. He's in Champasak for his visa-run from Thailand. He praised the Thai's for "being open" and this conversation soon translated into a farang's propensity to sleep with as much Thais as they can - "because they somehow hope the farang would marry them or at the very least, give them an allowance." How can others look down on the people of a country who welcomes them as visitors?

I am not usually judgmental nor am I fond of those who see more destitute countries as a haven for - excuse my French - "welcoming pussies" - and even of penises for that matter. This conversation evolved into my being a Filipino ("You're the first Filipino backpacker I've ever met," he said), my proficiency of the Queen's language, and how his Swedish compatriots are turning their itinerant ideas on my country (Bangkok's still flooded). Heaven forbid! So people could take advantage of the wallowing poverty of a community?

I ordered my food and carefully sneaked out of the restaurant. There were stores selling odd stuff. I bought a postcard and a bottle of water. I have considered what I could do back at my guest house; it doesn't even have a television - and it wasn't even 8PM yet!

I walked back to the roundabout fountain which is an odd reference since it doesn't look like one. In fact, it's just an elevated platform with a light post at the center and 4 petal-like structures on four sides. This was a relic of a royal past. Supposedly.

After a while, I decided to call it a night. It had been an interesting day arriving from Pakse, finding Ban Wat Thong and my guesthouse, visiting temples, fraternizing with a sex tourist and watching the Mekong at dusk. I couldn't complain.

This is the Eye in the Sky!

Wat Amath and its chanting monks (1st photo above and photo below)




A store selling a variety of items. I bought a coke at 5,000 kip (0.63) and a bottle of water at 3,000 kip ($0.38)


From this store, I bought one postcard.


Fried chicken meat with vegetable and a rice at 15,000 kip ($1.90) at Saythong Restaurant.


Entrance of Saythong Restaurant which is beside the Mekong.


A painting on the wall at Saythong Restaurant shows Wat Phu Champasak and Khone Pha Phaeng, said to be the longest riverine cascade in Southeast Asia.


Champasak Restaurant beside my guesthouse








Time to lay my head to sleep at the Champasak Guesthouse.