Phnom Penh Part 7 - Rains at a Deserted Train Yard

TRAIN STATION AND BUDDHA HAIR

When I decided to check out Phnom Penh’s train station, it was a gloomy day with low lying clouds hovering the skies. I checked the map and saw a small temple, Wat Oanolum standing in front of the train station. This small temple was allegedly built to accommodate a "strand of hair” of Buddha. Upon reaching the wat (temple), I found a neglected stupa of greenish hue with gates firmly shut, surrounding the small structure. There was nowhere else to go but the nice-looking train station nearby. Although this train depot is temporarily non-operational, occasional non-commuter freight trains have schedules to deliver goods to select provinces. Adventurous backpackers are occasionally allowed to ride if they don’t mind staying above the carriages – under the sun, with wind on their faces.

WANDERING AROUND A DESERTED TRAIN YARD

The front doors of the station have been likewise shut, but I trudged towards the right side of the building where there’s a gate leading inside a train yard. I talked to the guard and requested to be allowed in. He shook his head but after a smiling plead, which he probably did not really understand, let me through. I walked the deserted grounds towards the tracks. Several carriages were parked. It felt eerie to be there, like roaming a ghost town. I would have gone further afield towards the western area - where I see some shanties - leading to Boeng Kak Lake, but I saw a couple of stray dogs heading my way. After a scary encounter with such beasts in Savannakhet Laos, I decided it was wise to stay put. Not a minute later, a heavy feastful torrential rain fell over the arid lands – and it didn’t seem to be slowing down. I crouched down and considered my options. Then I made a dash towards the exit gate, knowing I’d be drenched in the rains, then headed to the shelter at the front of the train station along with other locals.

CURIOUS CHILD

I waited at a concrete slab with other Khmers, when a 10 year old boy sat beside me. He kept looking at my watch which he later tapped with his finger. He said a few things in Khmer. I said “hello” and when he realized I wasn’t Khmer, he suddenly backed away. Haha.

Eerie...

Downpour... rain, rain, go away....

A strand of buddha's hair is kept inside.

Sorya Shopping Center - Phnom Penh's biggest shopping complex (above and below).

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BIGGEST

Sorya Shopping Center is a shopping mall in the Daun Penh District of Phnom Penh. It is a westernized complex, and contains a number of stores, stalls, fast food restaurants, a cinemaplex showing Khmer movies – mostly fantasy adventures and horror flicks, a food court at the 4^th floor, and a cd-dvd shop where I once again bought several titles. At the fifth floor, there is a viewing ledge where you are treated to a view of the city from above. Sorya Shopping Center is currently the largest modern shopping complex in Cambodia, although several projects for larger shopping centers are being planned or under construction in the country.

SHOPPING IN PHNOM PENH

In the northern district of the capital, I passed a huge department store simply called DS which turned out to be Phnom Penh’s version of Rustan’s where European garments and products are sold at ridiculous prices, even for Philippine or American standards. From an off-the-beaten track visit in the peninsular island of Chrouy Changwar and on my way back to my guesthouse, I told my motorcycle driver I wanted to check out DS Department Store. I went in and saw a single fastfood restaurant at the left side of the store. I took to the escalator that scaled 5 storeys. At the top floor was a ladies’ boutique that had guest lounges. I randomly picked an item to check out the price. This was a nice looking ladies blouse. The tag price - $900! Jeez! My floor almost caved in from surprise! That was ridiculous! More and more metropolitan malls are being constructed as we speak. The latest one that opened is the Sovanna Supercenter, another 5-storey shopping complex with marble tiles and huge window panes – and an area that spans 50,000 square meters. For some reason, just like the Siam group of malls in Bangkok, photography is not allowed inside.

For other needs, you can always try the tourist favorite Central Market and the Russian Market for both designer (originals) and knock-off products. However, my driver Tei hinted that most items at these markets are overpriced.

Phnom Penh cityscape - from Sorya's 5th floor.

Pretty tuktuks in a row...

A food stall at the Food Court, 4th floor, Sorya Shopping Center. Like Bangkok and Chiangmai, you have to purchase a food coupon then buy your food in exchange of these coupons. I'm not too fond of that system, to be honest.

This is the Eye in the Sky!

Phnom Penh Part 3: Walks Along Sisowath Quay and the Tonle Sap

RIVERSIDE SOJOURN

At any time of the day, it's always interesting to walk along the Sisowath Quay, a riverine sidewalk much like London's queen's walk, the banks of the Seine or Manila's Roxas Boulevard. The tourist-friendly stretch comfortably sits along the eastern part of the city, more specifically the southern bend, just facing the Tonle Sap joining the Mekong to form a Y-shape that drains south into theBassac River. As you go north, one gets a view of the Japanese Friendship Bridge that leads to the other side not quite navigated by tourists (but does that stop me?)

It is imperative to orient yourself with the Sisowath, since each side street from there allows faster, easier navigation. This is a most convenient focal area for walkers without guides. The avenue is paved and lined with cream colored street posts that romantically light the avenue at night. Late afternoon winds blow a comfortable waft at the riverside cafes and restaurants. There are concrete barriers – said to be floodgates - constructed above the river serving as convenient benches to watch local color. Several boats are docked below. Just across these concrete benches are rows and rows of motorbikes and tuktuks desperately waiting for tourists.
OF CROCODILES AND SENSATIONAL READINGS

Every so often, touts would offer their vehicles, but I find that a sincere and insistent - not the condescending - "no" usually worked here, unlike their Vietnamese counterparts. Flags from the different countries with diplomatic ties to the country proudly rise above these riverside concretes. As the sun dipped into the horizon, I found myself catching my breath, and taking in the sights before me. From my vantage, simple Khmer life seems idyllic. No trace of the lugubrious crap I’ve been reading in several blogs and personal encounters about Phnom Penh. I couldn't help recall the degree of anxiety I had about this city when I first visited. These were usual concerns, about the corrupt local police, fining commuters with made-up transgressions. Sounds familiar? They aren't completely baseless - but a lot of these anecdotes have been told and retold and blown out of proportion. My driver-guide voiced his displeasure about them, even referring to them as crocodiles (toldya, it sounded familiar). Being aware of such situations helps people avoid getting into the same dilemma.

Circle marks the Japanese Friendship Bridge; X marks the touristy area of the Sisowath Quay near the guesthouses and cafes, B - Bassac River, the confluence of the Tonle Sap and the Mekong. The northwestern body of water is the Boeng Kak Lake where other guesthouses line the lakeside. Quite far from the Sisowath Quay though.

AT HOME

I sat at the riverside for almost an hour, transferring every 15 minutes or so. Sometime after dinner, I realized I was seated beside a flag that looked familiar. Oh yeah, “ang mamatay ng dahil sa yo” (to die for you). LOL. It was nothing less than serendipitous to have unknowingly chosen a spot where my flag stood. It welcomed me - so far away from home.
PHNOM PENH, MADRID AND THE LOONIES

There were several loonies passing along the road, talking to themselves, lost in the jungles of their own consciousness, chatting gibberish. Life in Cambodia is hard, but then I have seen the same phenomenon in Madrid - a city that has some of the highest per capita of loonies roaming their streets. (Madridalso has similar number of "streakers" - fun-loving gentlemen in their trenchcoats with nothing else underneath. LOL)
ALL-DAY FAVORITE

From the tourist area, the southern route takes you to an open grassy field fronting the immense Royal Palace. Right across is a small street-temple facing the river. Ambulant vendors gather around selling foodstuff, incenses, lotuses and trinkets. Further south is a series of buddhist temples that brightly gleam in the daylight. I could stay at the Quay all day if I didn't have an itinerary list to visit. Here are some images from the area, an obvious personal favorite.

Independence Memorial (above and below) commemorates the departure of the French in 1953, located at the heart of the city. Nearby is the mediocre Stalin-style Liberation Memorial, marking the Vietnamese capture of the city in 1979. Although the Cambodians were glad to see the end of the Khmer Rouge, they don't hold their Vietnamese neighbor in high regard either, and have demonstrated this by neglecting these historical landmarks for 2 decades (remember the Marcos head in Baguio?). It was used mainly as a convenient urinal. However, during my visit, much of the monument had already been cordoned off from everyone, locals and foreign tourists alike. I like the intricate Buddhist designs garnishing the structures.

Independence Park

This old lady is a blind vendor (above) selling lotus flowers and incenses for the nearby street-temple (below) by the riverside. I felt a bit guilty taking her photograph so I asked permission and gave her something in exchange for this photo opportunity which she held tightly (see the first photo above). I saw an appreciative smile so that made me feel better.

Tonle Sap boatmen (above) and children (below).

The Grand Palace

Sisowath Quay going north.

Sisowath Quay going south

"Ang mamatay ng dahil sa yo..."


Guess which embassy this is. (above and below) Though it's off Sisowath Quay, I made sure I get to see it. It's 2-3 blocks from the Independence Monument. I walked around the blocks, reaching the park, turning to the opposite side to get to the embassy; this, while my motorcycle waited for 30 minutes - just to orient myself with the place.

Aerial view from the north skies: Tonle Sap (left) and the Boeng Kak Lake (center) can be seen from here.

Sisowath Quay at night, near my DV8 Guesthouse. Cafes, bars, restaurants, a couple of internet cafe, some DVD shops line this avenue.

This is the Eye in the Sky!