Goodbye, Don Khong! - From Riverine to Palace Living

On the morning of my departure from the island of Don Khong (Siphandon, South Laos), I woke up to catch my last sunrise on the island. Life seemed to move on, impervious of the temporal lives that its serenity has touched. There will be no tears when I bid my adieu, but I shall bask in the glory of its serene beauty.

I headed to the bridge and watched the sun gently rising from the horizon. Its golden crown peeped in seductive splendor. A few minutes later, the rest of Don Khong awoke - and life went on. The monks paraded for their morning alms. The few tourists on the road stretched in their chilled out state. I headed north and saw the empty fish cages awaiting use. On my way back, I caught a few children opening the shutters of their elementary school. I ordered breakfast - Fried rice with chicken and vegetables - though I wasn't particularly hungry, but I was getting ready for a long day. It was time to head back to Pakse, the capital of Champasak Province. Same time tomorrow, I'd probably be sitting on a bus for my crossing to Ubon Ratchathani in Thailand. Transits, for me, are always exciting and a wee bit nerve-wracking. It's like performing a song before a crowd: regardless of how many times you've done it, you always experience a degree of anxiety.

After a fast shower, I gathered my stuff and carried them to the hotel lobby. My ticket voucher read: Pakse, public bus, 7:30 AM, 60,000 kip ($7.50 or P325). This trip covers 140 kilometers. A public bus from Pakse's Southern Bus Terminal would cost cheaper at around 40,000 kip ($5) but since I had to book my bus from my guesthouse (there are no bus terminals in Don Khong), I guess 60,000 kip is acceptable. At 7:10 AM, I was ready to be whisked away, but my host (the hotel owner's son) suggested that I take a walk around first. That was odd considering the time. I've done my morning walk. I carried my stuff in front of Don Khong Restaurant where I was told to wait for my bus. I sat on a concrete bench under a fruit-bearing tree that had little round red fruits. A British couple sat beside me. I asked Kham, my bike driver yesterday (who's back in his restaurant post as waiter), what they call the fruit. "Maktakhop," he replied. The British guy joined in, "They call it Water Cherries in Vietnam," he offered. In my country, Water Cherries are called "macopa". These fruits are called "mansanitas" or "little apples" south of the Philippines. They are sweet and juicy.

The bus didn't come at 7:30. I was growing impatient because no one was telling us - myself and the British couple - what we were supposed to expect. We couldn't wait all day, could we? At 8:30, the British guy was already raising his voice: "We have a flight to catch at 11 in Pakse." Boy, they were in trouble! Later that day, I asked them if they really had a plane to catch. They laughed. Of course! 

Sunrise in Don Khong

Morning alms ritual of the monks.

Fried rice with chicken and vegetables at Pon's River Restaurant.

Children opened the doors and windows of this grade school north of my hotel.

Fish-catching baskets

Emo time at a Don Khong beach.

A cat makes a comfortable bed out of my luggage.

60,000 kip bus ticket to Pakse

Water Cherry or maktakhop or mansanitas

TWO HOUR DELAY

The bus didn't come at 9 AM so I was getting wary. A two-hour wait is just ridiculous, even by Laos standard. My host was getting restless because I was getting cross. Wouldn't you? Five minutes later, my bus sauntered towards me. It was a non-AC van filled with farm supplies. There were agricultural produce on top of it, and sacks of rice plopped down on the aisle, I had to hop carefully to get to the last row - the only available seats for me and the British couple. Every one else was local sneaking glances our way. I took the right window seat and placed my luggage beside me. Even the floor was small enough for our backpacks. I saw the British girl smile and I nodded. It felt like winning a minor price in a lottery for having made it in this bus.

The bus plodded smoothly as we headed south, passing through Kang khong, Phoxay and Ban Na, until we reached Ban Houay, the southernmost village that hosts the jetty (which isn't really much). I could see signs welcoming people to Don Khong, as well as directions to the northwest village of Hinxiao, the "Sugar Palm and Handicraft Village", it read. I didn't feel like socializing. Not all Asians love to fraternize with every Caucasian he meets along the way. I planned on taking a nap. I knew I'd be covered in grime and dust by the time I reach Pakse, but I liked the steady rush of wind on my face.

CONTENTIOUS FERRY RIDE

We reached the ferry and came across several other mini-buses. We also saw huge trucks and one gigantic public bus, the AC variety that's common in Metro Manila. My mouth was agape when we saw the ferry. Would we fit on that small rectangular floating object? "Something to tell our friends back home," laughed the British girl. I had to chuckle. In my mind flashed news headlines declaring, "Filipino drowns in ferry crossing in Laos." I wasn't scared but things could get hairy in this set up. To our surprise, we would share our ferry ride with the gargantuan bus! Oh my angels!

There was a 30 minute wait at the queue before we could finally take the ride. Meanwhile, I hopped off our bus and took a stroll along the row of little stores that sold candies, toiletries, snacks, and drinks. When it was finally our turn, I rushed back to my seat and kept my fingers crossed. There we were on board this small ferry - and there was the bus behind us. Unexpectedly, we floated easily and in less than 30 minutes, we reached Ban Hart east of Mekong, a village I haven't read about.

ARRIVING IN PAKSE

Between short naps, I noted our progress. 9:30 AM in Ban Hart. 10:30 AM we passed by Tomo and Pathoumphone, including the gigantic Golden Buddha that sat on a hill. At 12 noon (or midday as the Brits would say), we reached Pakse. I was mildly surprised. In fact, I wasn't sure if we were indeed in Pakse. I had to ask several people for confirmation. We were at the big terminal called Southern Bus Station along Road 13. It is just a patch of dirt surrounded by wooden stalls known as the "8 km Market". It's just on the other side of the junction with the road to Veun Kham. There was a huge building with different windows selling tickets. Long distance buses park at assigned station bays, just like in Ubon Ratchathani. I had to look for a local transport that will take me to Champasak Palace Hotel.

FINDING MY TUKTUK

I walked around to check out the options. And when you're alone - and carrying a huge baggage - you are bound to attract attention; stick out like a sore thumb, is like. There were several smaller trucks, buses, jumbos, tuktuks, whatever they call them here. I went to one that didn't seek me out. After agreeing on a 20,000 kip ($2.50) fare, I hopped into my ride to Champasak Palace Hotel. I have been looking forward to this - staying in a real palace. The royalty who founded the establishment has long deserted his grand residence when Laos turned into a communist nation.

The ride was not walking distance. Considering I had to pay 40,000 kip ($5) upon my first arrival in Pakse to a distance half this route we're taking, I was smug. This was a good deal. A bike with a sidecar will cost even cheaper at 5,000 kip, I learned later. But I am getting ahead of myself.

We arrived in front of the sprawling lawn of the hotel. A fountain greeted me with lavish water dances. The wedding-cake style infrastructure, painted in immaculate white, reminded me of the state houses of Louisiana and New Orleans. I felt I was somehow home. I was billeted in huge Room 203 at the 3rd floor, a room with a veranda, facing the hotel. I couldn't wait to roam. I had a big smile on face.

This is the Eye in the Sky!

My bus came at 9:05 AM when it's supposed to be there at 7:30 AM.

Sacks of rice and agricultural produce all over the bus.

A queue to the ferry ride to Ban Hart

Ambulant vendors at the ferry in Ban Houay

Ban Hart across the Mekong

Rows of little shops at the Ban Houay Ferry

The British lady I sat with at the bus.

My bus ("van") from Don Khong to Pakse

Into the ferry

I was holding my breath while the huge bus made its way into the ferry. We were right in front of it.

Arriving in Ban Hart and on to Route 13 going north to Pakse.

Images in Ban Hart

Gigantic Golden Buddha on a hill along Route 13.

Southern Bus Terminal in Pakse

Bus platforms at the Southern Bus Terminal in Pakse. This one was headed for Savannakhet and Vientiane.

FAST FACTS:

Distance from Don Khong to Pakse: 140 kilometers
Public Bus from Don Khong to Pakse: 60,000 kip
Morning breakfast in Don Khong: 60,000 kip
Duration of travel from Don Khong to Pakse: 3 hours, but allot a half day for the whole ride including the 30-minute wait at the ferry, the 30-minute ferry ride, and all the other stops.
Tuktuk from Pakse's Terminal to Champasak Palace Hotel (central Pakse): 20,000 kip

My 20,000 kip tuktuk (jumbo) from the terminal to Champasak Palace Hotel.

Champasak Palace Hotel - a real former palace!