Cemoro Lawang - Picture a sleepy community high up the mountains, where vegetation is lush, people are mild mannered, and crop rotation provides an artistic choreography of nature's most nurtured plants; where nights are bathed with fog and drenched with mist, and shrouded with the darkest of nights. But when the moon turns up full and bright, the slumbering town glistens with magic. This is Cemoro Lawang, the starting point to the trek up the view deck for viewing Mount Bromo, this huge caldera of active volcanoes somewhere in Central Java.
Upon reaching Cemoro Lawang through its tortuous path, we were informed that Bromo erupted earlier in the day, and that we would have limited access to the viewing of Bromo, which seemed like a big let down - to come all the way from Bali for a limited view. But it wasn't, after all, we weren't volcanologists who needed closer view of the lava smoldering inside a cauldron, seething with ashes. It was dangerous, and there was risk. But we could still view it.
After a restless sleep, draped with cold air, we were woken up at 3:30AM. I was ready then, but most of the other guests have already gone - except our group: Tom was still in his room; the Dutch couple were probably dreaming about their intumescent lives in Holland. Our driver was ready to go, so I ventured into knocking on their doors. It was close to 4AM and there was a long hike up ahead - more than one hour worth of hiking. When ,y hike-mates finally turned up, our driver took us to the starting point, some 5 kilometers from Yoschi's. We were all snugly jacketed, ready for the frozen night.
The moon was very bright. And I soon learned that I couldn't compete with their speed, considering I had obviously smaller steps than these towering guys, so I opted to be left behind, as I took my sweet time, walking through dark farmlands and eerie silhouettes. They were fast and must have walked some 20 minutes ahead of me, but I didn't care. I am gonna make it there. Damn!
It was weird walking up the hill at 4 AM. There was a single path to be followed - without a single sign. By 5 AM, I was sure I wouldn't make it to the sunrise. I took my coat off. I was breathless, my legs starting to cramp away. I was thinking of quitting altogether but where would that take me - all alone in the middle of the dark nowhere!
At some point, this single path leading way up the hill forked into two: a dirt road to my left with tall grass growing into a hedge - and to my right was a miniscule stair of a concrete narrow and uneven, if you accidentally slide, it would be long way down a slope. Where do I go? Intuition told me it should be the stair, otherwise why would man make something they won't use, right?
For a while there, I thought this will never be worth it. An old British woman was on her way down as I neared the apex. "You're almost there, young man," she said. And I was. At the top, there was a mildly constructed view deck - and right before me was the most magnificent view of 3 volcanic structures clumped into a desert terrain. A poetic image sits placidly to the west of these structures - a Buddhist monastery, looking solitary and deserted.
The western volcano was blowing sulfur: this was Mount Bromo, raging away like he did some 3 decades ago. I was pleased with myself. The Britiish woman did say, "This is not enjoyable." But there's something about making it against the odds. If you are not exactly physically fit, do not even think about climbing the view deck. IThis activity is not for everyone. The view from Cemoro Indah Hotel is just as beautiful. Take my word and have mercy on yourself.
Now where were Tom and the Dutch's Mork and Mindy? They were nowhere in sight. There were Japanese people there, several more Caucasians smug with self appreciation. I changed vantage point to get diferent angles from the awe-inspiring scene before me. The wind caressed my face, and comforted my tired muscles. It wasn't as cold as everyone said it would be.
I made my way down the mountain and as I reached towards the fork of the road, the Dutch couple was also making their way from the opposite side. They took the wrong path! "Where were you? Does it have a viewdeck there?" I asked, despite my displeasure of seeing them. I was surprised they went the other way! "We made our own path," rationalized Mork, then he sauntered off with his Mindy, reeling with their victory of ultimately not making i to the top! I covered my mouth with laughter, trying hard to control myself. They went ahead and didn't make it at the viewdeck! Lesson here applies: haste makes waste!
And I thought I was the last man out! Turns out I did make it at the finish line while Mork and Mindy detoured to their alternative world of Planet Claire. LOL
Tom caught up with me as we hiked back to the starting point. The scenery was just magical, and this walk back was immensely enjoyable! It helps that making a descent is physiologically easy. I was pooped, but contented with myself.
I chose Nasi Pecel (pronounced "pe-chel" - rice with a buffet of vegetables, a peanut-based sauce, which is a typical Indonesian specialty) for my breakfast and ignored the freebie which was just toast with jam - ridiculous. Within an hour, we were all inside another van, on our way to Probolingo. From there, we were to change vehicle for our onward trip to Yogyakarta (pronounced "Jog-ja-karta").
This was going to be another long day - something that started at 3AM when the moon was up in her full glory!
This is the Eye in the Sky!
Upon reaching Cemoro Lawang through its tortuous path, we were informed that Bromo erupted earlier in the day, and that we would have limited access to the viewing of Bromo, which seemed like a big let down - to come all the way from Bali for a limited view. But it wasn't, after all, we weren't volcanologists who needed closer view of the lava smoldering inside a cauldron, seething with ashes. It was dangerous, and there was risk. But we could still view it.
After a restless sleep, draped with cold air, we were woken up at 3:30AM. I was ready then, but most of the other guests have already gone - except our group: Tom was still in his room; the Dutch couple were probably dreaming about their intumescent lives in Holland. Our driver was ready to go, so I ventured into knocking on their doors. It was close to 4AM and there was a long hike up ahead - more than one hour worth of hiking. When ,y hike-mates finally turned up, our driver took us to the starting point, some 5 kilometers from Yoschi's. We were all snugly jacketed, ready for the frozen night.
The moon was very bright. And I soon learned that I couldn't compete with their speed, considering I had obviously smaller steps than these towering guys, so I opted to be left behind, as I took my sweet time, walking through dark farmlands and eerie silhouettes. They were fast and must have walked some 20 minutes ahead of me, but I didn't care. I am gonna make it there. Damn!
It was weird walking up the hill at 4 AM. There was a single path to be followed - without a single sign. By 5 AM, I was sure I wouldn't make it to the sunrise. I took my coat off. I was breathless, my legs starting to cramp away. I was thinking of quitting altogether but where would that take me - all alone in the middle of the dark nowhere!
At some point, this single path leading way up the hill forked into two: a dirt road to my left with tall grass growing into a hedge - and to my right was a miniscule stair of a concrete narrow and uneven, if you accidentally slide, it would be long way down a slope. Where do I go? Intuition told me it should be the stair, otherwise why would man make something they won't use, right?
For a while there, I thought this will never be worth it. An old British woman was on her way down as I neared the apex. "You're almost there, young man," she said. And I was. At the top, there was a mildly constructed view deck - and right before me was the most magnificent view of 3 volcanic structures clumped into a desert terrain. A poetic image sits placidly to the west of these structures - a Buddhist monastery, looking solitary and deserted.
The western volcano was blowing sulfur: this was Mount Bromo, raging away like he did some 3 decades ago. I was pleased with myself. The Britiish woman did say, "This is not enjoyable." But there's something about making it against the odds. If you are not exactly physically fit, do not even think about climbing the view deck. IThis activity is not for everyone. The view from Cemoro Indah Hotel is just as beautiful. Take my word and have mercy on yourself.
Now where were Tom and the Dutch's Mork and Mindy? They were nowhere in sight. There were Japanese people there, several more Caucasians smug with self appreciation. I changed vantage point to get diferent angles from the awe-inspiring scene before me. The wind caressed my face, and comforted my tired muscles. It wasn't as cold as everyone said it would be.
I made my way down the mountain and as I reached towards the fork of the road, the Dutch couple was also making their way from the opposite side. They took the wrong path! "Where were you? Does it have a viewdeck there?" I asked, despite my displeasure of seeing them. I was surprised they went the other way! "We made our own path," rationalized Mork, then he sauntered off with his Mindy, reeling with their victory of ultimately not making i to the top! I covered my mouth with laughter, trying hard to control myself. They went ahead and didn't make it at the viewdeck! Lesson here applies: haste makes waste!
And I thought I was the last man out! Turns out I did make it at the finish line while Mork and Mindy detoured to their alternative world of Planet Claire. LOL
Tom caught up with me as we hiked back to the starting point. The scenery was just magical, and this walk back was immensely enjoyable! It helps that making a descent is physiologically easy. I was pooped, but contented with myself.
I chose Nasi Pecel (pronounced "pe-chel" - rice with a buffet of vegetables, a peanut-based sauce, which is a typical Indonesian specialty) for my breakfast and ignored the freebie which was just toast with jam - ridiculous. Within an hour, we were all inside another van, on our way to Probolingo. From there, we were to change vehicle for our onward trip to Yogyakarta (pronounced "Jog-ja-karta").
This was going to be another long day - something that started at 3AM when the moon was up in her full glory!
This is the Eye in the Sky!
This is the Eye in the Sky!
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