Bajra Sandhi Monument in the city central. This photo only courtesy of amitac. Denpasar, Bali
"Denpasar moon, shining on an empty street I returned to the place we used to meet. Denpasar moon, shine your light and let me see that my love is still waiting there for me."
Someone was serenading me at 7:30 in the morning. I was buying my Perama shuttle bus ticket for my next destination tomorrow - Ubud. As a conversation piece, I name-dropped Christian Bautista and singer Maribeth. Her eyes lit up, pleased I was up to date with mainstream pop culture, but of course I was just making conversation when she suddenly started singing. I was pleased, it was novelty to be serenaded this early, which was a great foreshadowing of the day ahead.
From Legian (pronounced "leg-gi-yan", not "lej-jian", someone corrected me), I walked towards the Bemo Corner until I reached the makeshift terminal where the "blue-colored" bemos are, ignoring several touts who offered "bike, mushrooms, girls" - in that order, every time. I sat beside the bemo driver, the vehicle is nothing but a van with seats to the side corners at the back. Everyone paid 5,000 Rp, but I was obviously English-speaking so I was made to pay 10,000 Rp like the special Earth inhabitant that I was. (wink wink)
The trip to Denpasar took 30 minutes and by the time I got there, my extra-thin breakfast of Banana Pancake from Hotel Sorga have all been digested into molecules of spent energy. I tried to ask for directions, if I needed to get a taxi to get to Puputan Square (Alun-alun Puputan), not that there's any taxi I could find anywhere.
After being told that it was indeed too far for a walk, another girl in immaculate head scarf, excused herself and told me how to go about with my predicament. "Walk straight through 3 intersections, then turn right". It's about 300 meters from Puputan which roughly translates to the Indonesian version of "hara kiri" - suicidal fights against the Dutch colonizers in the early 1900's.
About 2 blocks from Tegal terminal, I came across an ornately beautiful compound. I timidly went inside and was lead to the owner, sitting beside some shrubby corner. He must be some royalty if he owns a palace, I thought. The place is called "Marajan Palace" and the temple is "Marajan Puri". There were women dressed in Balinese traditional clothes, and they were in a flurry preparing for what should be a ceremony later in the day. "Please come inside and see my palace," he invited over. One of the halls actually had his photo and I was flattered to have met a royalty of sorts. I wonder if there's a literature about this palace somewhere; it's a little piece of Balinese "palace" that I have inadvertently discovered.
Thirty minutes later, I reached Puputan Square. I didn't need a taxi after all. Nearby were the other attractions: the Catur Mukha statue (pronounced "chatur") - a 4-faced, 8-armed representation of Lord Brahma, said to be protecting the city at all points. At the center of the park stood 3 white-painted figures. To its fringes are the adorable Bali Museum (Museum Negeri Propinsi Bali) which houses 5 pavilions. To its right is the Jagatnata Temple where I was made to wear a yellow cloth around my waist.
A tout chatted me up, easily referencing Corazon Aquino for his conversation piece. But Cory is dead and it's the son who's our new President! I knew he was posturing to be my "tourist guide", something that I never required from the get-go. But I didn't even know how to get rid of him coz he didn't exactly offer his services. He just kept dogging me around. I found my way out when I saw a lookout tower. I hastily climbed up to enjoy the wind above - and stayed there for a good 10 minutes. He didn't follow me. From up the lookout tower, I saw him leave. Good riddance.
What eventually took me ages to find was the Palace of Satria along Jalan Veteran, supposedly around 300 meters north of Alun-alun Puputan. No one seems to know of this except a school boy who pointed me further on. I found a compound demarcated into several areas, each one decked in particular colors: yellow, red and white. The contrast of colors are anything but ordinary, and it's such a photographic feast to say the least. Funny thing is: I wasn't even sure if this was indeed the "Palace of Satria."
I was debating with myself if I had the stamina to walk all the way back to the Tegal Station. All my effort was used up finding Satria. I reached Tegal and found an empty Bemo that charged me 7,000 Rp - 3,000 Rp cheaper than my morning ride. Greed after all is relative. Some practice it less than others.
Denpasar was a revelation, to say the least. This would be one of the highlights of my Bali trip. There are rewards for an adventurous soul.
The moment I was back in Kuta, I wanted to watch the sunset again! I rushed towards the beach with a take-out of "Potato Country," thick cuts of potato wedges tender on the mouth but badly needed tastebud inspiration. I chewed and munched as the sun gradually dipped in the horizon. These are moments of pure bliss as Bali welcomed another night of hedonism. Moreover, full moon lit the heavens for tonight. The poetic buffet was served in full splendor.
This is the Eye in the Sky!
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